This is what you pick up over 30+ years of electronic work. Actually it is much longer than that. I started "playing" with electronics when I was a kid. Very young, perhaps 9 or 10. Getting jolted by the 400 volt supply from a tube radio, no problem. I didn't have helicopter parents that were hovering over me "protecting" me from doing stupid things like sticking a butter knife into an electrical socket. Hell no, I got a shock, and never did that again.I'm not saying getting a shock is good, it isn't, and to tell you the truth I am scared to death of electricity, and that is why I practice every safety measure when working on electric devices, and rule number 1, no "line" connected devices. Everything, and I mean everything I work on, where there is the potential of contact, is isolated from the mains live, and neutral/ground. The exception is devices that draw more than my isolation transformer can handle like microwave ovens. For those one has to be extra careful, as they have lethal voltages and currents. I studied electronics in high school, but never went on to formal college or university education in electronics. I actually took television production in college. I did however work in a shop while I was in high school, and started an apprenticeship. After the 4 years on the job training I wrote the challenge exam and passed with flying colors. Then the rest of my "formal" training was all paid for my the manufactures that I provided warranty work for during my 21 year career in the repair business. This was invaluable, because it wasn't just theory, but we actually studied the circuit designs in use. I am not a design engineer by any means. I don't design electronics, but I can take a piece of equipment, and with the schematic can figure out how it works, and more importantly, when it isn't working I can use that schematic, and due to my knowledge of how it is supposed to work diagnose the faulty part. This was true for discrete components. These days with everything buried in large scale IC, it is much more of a crap shoot. You take your best educated guess many times. Sometimes you get it right, but many times it bites you in the ass, especially now where software corruption is a major cause of problems.

Gary Alexaner It's funny as it was not my first career choice. I went to school for television production but couldn't find work so electronics was my plan b as I had been tinkering for years all through high school. I did ok doing this for 20 years when the service industry was booming. Got out and went to another industry but stayed active doing the odd repair at home. Then I started doing the videos and the rest is history. I have fun doing these videos and make a little extra cash on the side witch will come in handy when I retire from the phone company in a few more years.

I go in t here looking for obscure things. Keek hoping I will find a Heathkit GC1005 or 1092 Panaplex display digital clock. I want one to complete my collection of all the different displays that usere used on clocks. I have a nixie tube, VFD, Compulite (that's a mechanical digital) and a Numitron is enroute. There is also one I remember having many users ago that used a drum to trigger mechanical leaf switches that turned on and off NE2 neon bulbs that made up the time display. Looking for one of those for my collection too.

I remember condemning many an Akai VCR. Most of their old stuff was made by Mitsubishi and those old mits machines that the guides came lose on. Money maker for me. Krazy Krazy was selling them like they were going out of style, and they all broke down and were a PITA to fix.

The head and pinch motor slow

The head and pinch motor n v 280 VCR

Yes I am going to start going there regularly, as one never knows what will show up.

That's a great idea! : )

I was browsing a Goodwill several months ago and found a VHS VCR for $4.97. They said it worked on the tag so I bought it (worst case I'd loose a little over $5). I then took it to the camera shop next door and sold it for $10 after they confirmed it worked. I owned the machine for fewer than 10 minutes.

We have several of them here. As to the test pattern, I think I will do a video and show the difference between different types of cameras and what they can do. I have some tube and CCD, both B/W, and color, security type cameras. Should be interesting to see how each type of camera compares to others in terms of resolution, as I have a few really low B/W security type cameras. Some of the earliest B/W security cameras, and I know they were only perhaps 100 lines.

V2000 format is another one invention from Philips i guess.

That's tough to do as I don't have one

@@12voltvids how do I remove the mechanism would I have to remove the circuit board that is screwed as well,

Could be. Bene awhile since I was into one. Would have to see one to know how they operate.

No can't be modified. Totally different circuitry fur svhs.

There are shops now that cater specifically to vintage audio. Stuff from the late 70's and 80's seem to bring in the most money on the used market. With amplifiers there is one rule. It needs to be heavy. If it is heavy, then it is a good piece to have. That weight is the power transformer. The bigger the transformer, the more power the amplifier can put out. Back in the 70's and 80's the true power of the amplifier was rated, all channels driven. Today they measure IPP, instantaneous peak power, so the specs don't lie. If an amp says 120 watts it can do it briefly. An old amp can run that full power all day long without even breaking a sweat.

what about the Crown amplifiers that are today's power specs they say it is RMS but i'm curious if it is really the real power or they lying to me?

Marantz, Pioneer, Sansui, Rotel, Haffler, Dynaco. Now your are talking.

Since it's vintage audio/video I would hang on to it.

I definitely would. LDs are cool. Some are even better than DVDs. Besides I myself don't need my favourite films in 4K, 8K, whatever. Analog imperfections and limits are nicer than lifeless digital copies. Digitalization and 4K quality is good for video survailance though)

DVD in theory will hot 500 lines just like DV tape. DVD is a fixed pixel count 720 x 480 which is the same as DV tape. VHS and Beta is not. It is analog, so it is all about the bandwidth, and what you can get back from an analog signal. VHS is about 230 lines, Beta 240, Video 8mm 260, 3/4" 330, S-VHS 400, Hi-8 420, ED-Beta 500, DV 500, DVD 500.

thats right

Wouldn't DVD be 378 if you converted the "line measurement" to the same form as the others? 720 times the 0.7 Kell factor, then converted to "TV lines" by multiplying by 3/4?

DVD and DV is a digital fixed pixel count. 720 pixels per line, 480 lines for NTSC, 576 for PAL Horizontal resolution is a term coined for analog TV to show where the bandwidth rolls off. In digital it is a fixed count, but the approximate equivalent, if it was an analog signal would be 500 lines.

The reason I believe 378 is correct for DVD in comparison to "TV Lines" figures is because first, the 0.7 "Kell Factor" takes into account the difference in digital fixed pixel count and analog, plus "TV Lines" are lines per picture height, not width, so any digital pixel count would have to be multiplied by both the 0.7 and the 3/4 aspect ratio, giving 378. Let's go backwards for a moment and go from analog to digital. Consider an NTSC standard 4.2 MHz signal. If you take 4200000 and divide by 29.97, then by 525, you get 266.9336 Hz (the bandwidth per scan line in the analog system) then you have to multiply that by the fraction ((52 + 8/9) / (63 + 5/9)) to eliminate the parts of the scan line that do not contain picture information. Doing this leaves 222.1336 Hz bandwidth per scan line of NTSC standard picture. Doubling this gives 444.267 "lines per picture width". Note that this would be multiplied by 0.75 to give "TV lines" to give 333.200. Note that if we divide this number by 4.2, we get 79.333, which is where our good old "multiply the bandwith by 80" rule came from) to get TV lines of resolution from MHz. However, if we want the digital pixel equivalent for NTSC luminance, we need to take the bandwidth per picture scan line per picture width, which was 444.267, and divide it by the Kell factor of 0.7, giving 634.67, so we need 635 pixels across the picture to be roughly equivalent to 4.2 MHz bandwidth, so this means that DVDs 720 would be equivalent to a bandwidth of (720/634.67) * 4.2, or 4.76647 MHz. Multiplying 4.76647 MHz by 79.333 to get TV lines that way gives 377.99 TV Lines for DVD. Of course, this just luminance. It is really eye opening to see how low the chrominance resolution was for NTSC, and it was even worse for "color under" type VCRs, and DVD had a much better appearance because of the much better color bandwidth (half the luminance resolution per scan line although it lost half vertically, but still far better than broadcast analog or VHS or Beta).

fadhle matrook that was always sony's marketing. quality over recording time but back then many people were using old RCA, Zenith and Admiral TV that were made in the 70s and couldn't display more that 230 lines so they couldn't see the difference and went with the cheaper VHS format over the superior ßeta format.

Extended technology, expansion technology, expanded technology, same thing. It allowed recording a higher resolution image, closer to S-VHS on a regular tape. Like S-VHS tapes recorded in this mode would only play back properly on other "ET" machines and of course S-VHS decks. Because a regular tape was not the same formulation as real SVHS, it cost a fraction of the cost of real tape. Many found that they could drill the index hole in a regular tape and record on a SVHS deck. The results were very good, but not as good as a real SVHS tape because a standard tape could handle the bandwidth that was required for full SVHS. The ET technology was introduced to maximize the quality on standard tapes without the poor S/N ratio that occurred when people drilled the hole in standard tapes. It resulted in a better picture, close to what a real SVHS tape delivered. High grade tapes worked best. On record, when SVHS-ET was selected the recorder would record a quick sweep test wind the tape back and check playback, set the record level and tweak the modulation bandwidth to find the sweet spot and the recording would proceed and deliver the best quality for a particular tape. When running a real SVHS tape it also checked the quality of the tape and would push the carrier to the maximum it could. Because it checked the tape before the initial recording started, this guaranteed the best quality for a specific tape. Something a standard SVHS deck did not do. It loiked for the ID hole. If it saw it, the recording would be in SVHS mode and lower quality tape would suffer a noisy picture.

Well, with regard to S-VHS ET recordings playing properly on regular Super VHS VCRs, not entirely. There are many that can. But there are some that can't without modifying the cassette, particularly very old SVHS decks like my 1988 vintage Philips SVHS VCR. On that machine, playing an SVHS ET recording from a VHS cassette winds up looking like what a VHS VCR would show playing a SVHS recording: overmodulation noise out the wazoo. To prove that the SVHS part worked on that unit, my SVHS tapes play fine. Of course, a way around that is to drill a hole on the cassette to make the VCR think it's S-VHS, so it could play SVHS ET recordings contained within it as well as record SVHS onto the same cassette, albeit with less than optimal results. And, having a regular VHS VCR with SQPB can be handy in a pinch. Although you won't be able to watch SVHS/SVHS ET recordings at their best that way, at least you can still watch them. And, yep, that's the gist of SVHS ET; it checked and optimized the machine to the regular VHS tape it's loaded with prior to recording in SVHS ET, such as Video Calibration on JVC decks and PerfecTape on Mitsubishi decks. And, true, you needed to use high grade tape for best results on SVHS ET. Otherwise, the result is a rather grainy picture.

Yes, that would be the technical term. Hi-Band. Just like Beta. Super beta was Hi-Band, and then they went one step further with SHB, super hi-band on the SLHF1000.

Thanks 12V.

12voltvids Is the SL-HF1000 the only model with Super Hi-Band, and also is it the same thing as ED Beta?

s-video cable?right