Thank you, I was about to write this down myself. It comes down to the number of elements and what type of glass is used, as well as the coatings on those elements. Basically any lens will have a T-stop slightly lower than its F-stop. Off-hand, the Sigma 30mm 1.4 DC DN has a T-stop of 1.8 It's not exclusive to the number of elements, though: The Sony 16-55mm 2.8 lets in more light than the Sigma 1.4 DC DN trio does at the same focal lengths and F-stops, hence the T-stop on it is lower for the same given F-stop.

F-stop is about geometry, T-stop is about the actual amount of light on sensor. Like my Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 is really more like a T1.6 or T1.8 because it vignettes so heavily wide open.

And P stops? You need to keep well hydrated when carrying 82mm-filter lenses all day.

F for focal lenght T for (light) transmition

@@Martincyborg Right, because F stop is literally the entrance pupil size as a fraction of the focal length.

There were barely any examples. The longest one is in the outro, but that one is covered with suggested videos.

Atomos Shinobi

Hey There, same here, I am doing stills only and am addict to anamorphic, so I started exploring the various options and decided to go for Fuji XT4, simply because of Sirui-lenses (since the other options ar eway to expensive or not feasible for stills). So I am shooting in Fuji's RAF format, then imprting to LightRoom, selecting the files I will use and the de-squeeze the respective choices with Photoshop. I know, this quite awkward but I haven't found a non-destructive way to de-squeeze RAF's in batches (rather than doing them one-by-one...I hate PS, so the only thing I use it for is to desqueeze, all adjustment (clours etc.) is done in LR). I am using the Sirui 50 and the SIrui 24, most of the time with a Tiffen Pro Mist filter attached to enhance the cinematic look. General problem being for that the close-up distances are not very good so I am currently starting to explore extension tubes for macro work - and desperatly waiting for the Sirui FF for L-mount to be delivered. There is a KZfaq channel by MediaDivison, who have two of the best documentations on anamorphic look and the tech behind out there and I can only wrmaly recommend to watch them (at least I have learnt so much from then and the MediaDivsion guys are great). If you want to see some still examples ping me and we will work out a way to get in touch so I can provide you a link...but be careful: you either hate it or get addict like me :-) Best, Michael

Post Scripum: Focusing these lenses manually can be a pain in the a** and really they are not sharp like hell corner to corner, the cumbersome handling sucks, but if you get along with it and you are into this look. the results are rewarding :-)

Agree! Best shot of the video 🔥🔥

same question here!

just put two tape stripes on your screen for framing and export it in 2.35:1 after cutting 💀

@@samsonkipp can tape get you there if you don't want to use an EVF? Eh, kinda. But if there were simply a "custom aspect ratio" option next to the 3:2 and 16:9, easy peasy, plus you have all the information like shutter speed and ISO displayed on the screen. Just irks me that something which should be so trivial in every camera only exists in a handful.

Yeah. Which one?

Or anyone with a pro Panasonic camera :|

@@mipmipmipmipmip is there such a thing?? Just joking! Haha 🤣✌️

Great Joy are releasing one tomorrow and it's 1.8x !

@@ODHunte wow! Where do we check that?

Yes, it's three times the price, but...

sub and click the bell, you been missing out he post every other week or so maybe more!

its a manhattan portage snapshot camera backpack

@@Miguel_Molina thanks a lot 🙃

You may be sleeping for a bit. If this was a 2x, it would be game over. Having said that, full frame at 1.6X is close to game over. Really impressive

Anamorphic characteristics