This will help me when I do my z650 carbs very soon, thank you for sharing your video

Just spotted something else to, link tube missing between 1-2 and 3-4 the two open nipples in the carb casting facing each other. If they do overflow fuel will be all over the engine, overflow pipe will be of no use.

Keith, I believe your slides are open way too far, check your manual you need to bench sync them. Place a small drill bit under the slides and adjust them all to the same height by the adjusters at the top of each carb. then once you get the bike started you will need to resync with vacuum gages.

Hi again I just discovered your build and am currently binge watching your doing great job and its nearly there ! The carbs as well as being vented also need to be linked by short rubber tubes between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 yours don't seem to be also in earlier episode you could not get neutral light to work properly I don't know whether you have fixed this or not but it works by being earthed not having a live feed so should.d be easy to find correct wire under side panel good luck cheers mark

I have a 77 B1 with slightly different carbs, but in general these carbs should operate very similarly. In the video the gap between the throttle valve and carb bore is way to big, and it is because your idle adjustment screw on the carb body is screwed out too far. The service manual calls for a roughly 2mm clearance between the throttle cable bracket and stopper. When you undid the idle adjustment screw the throttle valves went down to what it looks like a proper height. This could explain the hesitancy to start, as the fuel enricher system needs a lot of vacuum to operate, it doesn't work as a normal choke. With the throttle valves so high, there is likely not enough vacuum to pull the fuel though the enrichment circuit.

At 9.15minutes into the vid when you removed the tick over adjuster you can see the assembly move and close the slides.

ultrasonic cleaning. only way to clean old carburetor perfectly

Yep - slides open way too far, sort out that and float height you should be OK.

I'm trying desperately to follow Your camera movements, to see if I can spot something. But there's way too much movement for me. Or is it just me and my eyesight, getting old? 😝 First of all - get a sheet of all white plastic or paper on Your work bench. Then hold the camera 100% still, when You're trying to show us - or ask for, something specific. And if You have to move while recording, move slowly and steady. I'm sure You get the hang of it, pretty soon. Besides that, I agree with Derek here. As soon as You loosened the linkage, the slides dropped. BTW; A schematic drawing of the carbs, is always useful to have on the wall, above the working area. Also - if You experience impurities in the fuel, flush the tank with warm soap water - then squish a pint of phosphoric acid in there and empty out - flush with warm water - dry with a hair dryer - flush with 200 ml of fuel - empty out - and fill with fresh fuel. You might need to repeat step two, depending on how dirty the used acid gets. Take care not to get acid on the paint or on gaskets. The reason I suggest phosphoric acid, is that it immediately dissolves any rust and leaves a permanent phosphate layer on the bare metal. A very good rust preventer! Sorry about the camera rant! But I think You'll profit from it in the future! Hope to hear it running again, soon! 😊

Does not look right...

Hi your carb slides are way too open they went back when you took adjustment off also your cards are not vented you need to remove black rubber caps on 2 and 4 these should be open to atmosphere and will never run correctly if they are capped