I like the nice way you present the issue and explain how you go about testing things.

Wow! You are an impressive person, let alone a mechanic. Your descriptions were spot on. Keep making videos. I have the 2012 Kia Soul w/ 1.6 litre and 6 speed. Used as a "toad" behind my RV. Fun little car.

Well Young Man Your one of the best Diagnostic & Repair guys I have ever seen on here Your so Thorough its Unbeliveable thanx You have taught ME a lot ,,,,,,,,,,,Thanx Again

Nice job! We need more honest people like you. Keep the videos coming. Thanks!

Thorough , logical diagnosis and confirmed fix . Great lesson . You can be confident the car is fixed when the customer gets it back . You gave them exactly what it needed without changing all the coils .

Great Content! One of the best troubleshooting videos I seen. Great Job!

This is an excellent tutorial video for all of us. Very good explanation of the theory of operation. Many will not realize the investment of the tools you use and the learning curve to understand the functions. For the seasoned pro, much can be gleaned. Thanks again. The old school guy.

Excellent diagnosis and presentation 👏 👌

i like all the details you show in your videos good mechanic

Great video and diagnoses. Keep up the awesome content.

Great video. Very thorough explanation. Keep making videos. Thank you

I have a 2015 Kia Soul Exclaim. It has 90K miles on it and I’ve been having trouble with it for over 10K miles. Got a new transmission, new spark plugs. They told me the last three oil changes (I get done every 3K miles) that I burned just under a quart each time - but that was normal - that I had to burn OVER a quart each oil change to be considered for an engine replacement. Some time ago - I did get that software update and they told me that increased my warranty to 150K miles, instead of 100K - but it was only on the “lower engine”. This past time - they told me that I needed special seals on the car that only they can open in order to officially check the oil loss. I asked why they didn’t do this at least two oil changes ago - and they couldn’t answer. They did say on my receipt that the oil they took out was dark and burned looking. So - this time they did the oil change and some sort of combustion cleaning and they added some sort of additive that corporate says they have to add - along with the seals in order to start the process to be approved for an engine replacement (I though 2 oil changes ago I was in that process!). I asked to see the bottle - and couldn’t see any ingredients. My cousin said if it had Teflon or silicone in it - that would be like putting a bandaid on a bruise - it is only hiding the problem. So - brought the car home (it is my ONLY car!) and the next morning - when I drove it - there was knocking and shaking - so I revved the engine a bunch of times and it went away for that day. Worked from home for a few days - then had to go out at 5 a.m. this Monday. Drove out about a half mile and it felt like I was going over a million large speed bumps. Revving didn’t help - when I would slow down for any reason it felt like the car was going to stall. Then when I would speed up again - it would bump terribly and I felt like I was fighting the gas pedal to get it to accelerate. I had a medical appt I had to get to - so made it to that - and then drove straight to the dealership - which was about 2 miles away (getting to my medical appt was 45 terrifying minutes). I walked in, embarrassingly, burst into tears, and they took it back to look at it. The advisor came out 10 minutes later and told me I had “scoring” on my cylinders and that I had been assigned an advisor that was going to contact corporate immediately for an engine replacement. He told me the car wasn’t safe to drive - that it would “sieze” up on me on the freeway. Five minutes later, he called me to the front desk and told me he had “great” news. He said I had passed all my “combustion tests” (I don’t even know what those are) - and that the little “scratches” on the cylinders was incidental and was fine. He then said they knew what the problem was and - sort of in a “gotcha” way - after I said - ok what is the problem - he lifted up a small container from behind his desk - slapped it down in front of me - and loudly said “You put bad gas in your car!”. He said gas should be perfectly clear and he said this gas was slightly yellow and he said it had 22% ethanol in it - instead of 10%. I said I went to a major gas station that everyone goes to and how could this be. So - I asked for a manager and I told him I couldn’t afford a rental car - so he agree for scaring me saying the car was not safe to drive - they gave me a loaner and they are flushing out the fuel, cleaning, then refilling, and doing another oil change. He said all I have to pay for is the $30 fuel filter. I asked if the “combustion cleaning” and additive they put in last week could have anything to do with this - because I said aside from burning oil - before they did that last week - my car drove just fine - no shaking, bumping, or flashing/solid check engine light. He said no - that was not it and when they turned the car on when I brought it in just hours before - they said the check engine light was not on all. He finally did admit that cylinders 2 and 4 were having problems - but that was because of “my” bad fuel. He said I needed to get in touch with the gas station and tell them their fuel was bad. Then he said I needed to call them and give them the gas station manager’s name and number. I did all that. Now it is Wednesday and I haven’t heard a peep. I am scared they are trying to mask whatever is wrong - because they told me Monday afternoon - that once they cleaned the fuel lines - that everything would be fine and we’d be back to checking the oil from under the seals every 1K miles to see if I burn more than ONE QUART in 1K miles (the story was every 3K miles, now it is 1K) - so that I can be “considered” for an engine replacement. I’ve got 2 years and just under 10K miles left on my powertrain warranty - are they trying to drag this out so I don’t need the replacement until it is my responsibility? I can’t afford to trade this car in or get another car for at least two years - so I am so worried - I did overhear (I was around the corner - he didn’t see me) - the service advisor on the phone sounding exasperated with a customer - saying “You will have to be patient, you are SEVENTH in line for an engine replacement.”…..so I wonder - they don’t want me to be the eighth? What words can I use to make sure my and my family’s safety is the number one priority when they give me my car back - and they tell me it will be ok? Thanks for any advice.

I do enjoy your videos. You always do a thorough step by step diagnostics with comprehensive dialogue explanations. 🤗

Very good diagnosis ✊🏾✊🏾✊🏾

Thanks for comparing the good and bad coil on the scope. Good video.

Thanks for sharing this information in detail about misfire. Thanks for your your understandable English language

Kit explained everything very clearly

Great diag as always!

My first time to see your video. Thank you for sharing the info.

As always, nice video. Thanks

Good show old man! Good show!

Great job, mate 👍🏻

Good Diagnosis well examined

It's interesting and useful thank you bro

great diagnosis!

Well done and thorough thank you thank you.

GREAT JOB!!

Great video and diag, Deo!

Hope everyone is having a great day!

Nice lesson. Wish i had time to play with the scope more. I think a banked engine will be the ideal candidate for using this method so that you may know exactly what's wrong before removing the intake components

Love your video D!

Excelanet Video Great job.

this is exactly what happened with my car. needed new plugs and one new coil. 3 years ago I had new plugs put in but they weren't Kia plugs. according to the Kia dealership, the non OEM plugs don't play well in Kias which is what caused my problem. they also cleaned my fuel injectors

Nice video! Thanks

Thank you very helpful

Great video:)

Very, very good.

Good Videos

Useful.

You do good work, but replacing coil with aftermarket, think u should use oem, electrical parts.

you are awesome!!!!! so the scope ignition coil test was not accurate when you ran test thru the fuse box and loop on 20 amp fuse......Well, at least you are thorough!

good video

exselente fdianostic master mui bueno maeter

Cylinder 4 and cylinder 2 are not companion cylinders on this engine. 1-4 & 2-3 are for this engine. The reason it set codes for 4 & 2 are because of the firing order 1342. The crankshaft spins slower than normal on the power stroke of 4 due to the misfire and does not get back up to full speed on cylinder 2. The engine control module determines what cylinder is misfiring by the crankshaft speed on the power stroke for each cylinder.

Good going~ maybee take a torque wrench and tighten the spark plugs with that...looked like maybee a little tight~ thanks much

Many of the standard tests do not work on gdi engine. Instead of individual injectors, it has tiny passages built into cylinder head that are fed by a high-pressure mechanical fuel pump. Compression stroke air pressure is what shuts off fuel spray. As fuel is dilivered both on intake and exhaust strokr oil changes are critical, oil thinning occurs due to the method of fuel delivery.

Is the firing order not 1342? The first half over the second half. 13 42 making 14 and 32 companions. OK you have not read a lot of secondary/primary spark waveforms lately, no worries, the line you were calling the sparkline is actually the burn line, the amount of time it takes to burn the fuel-air mixture. Also if the first half of the burn line is bad, then that portion is actually burning outside of the cylinder, which is a result of your carbon track sparking outside of the cylinder creating your misfire. If the spark is completely good then the first half of the burn line is the actual spark inside the cylinder. I also like to lift the coil up off from the spark plug and look down into the spark plug well to see if I can see a bad coil leaking spark out the side of the coil and sparking against the spark plug well instead of jumping to the spark plug. Your dip or hump in an ignition coil amp ramp is a characteristic of the coil construction, we call it a concave ramp or a convex ramp. You only tested 2 coil ramps for us on video, do not go down a rabbit hole based on a flat ramp without much more testing on many more coils please. Does it really matter where you install the new coil, remember, owners are no technicians, your work order show a P0304 & your diag statement says the #4 ignition coil has carbon tracking so you recommend replacing the ignition coil and all 4 spark plugs as preventive maintenance to improve fuel economy. If the owner sees a new coil on #3, WTF? BUT if you annotated your diag process of Swaptronics moving #4 to #3, then OK. It's best to avoid the silliness with the owners as we do not always have time to tell them the full story face to face. SOUL owners manual link di-uploads-pod4.dealerinspire.com/lawrencekia/uploads/2019/01/2012-AM-OM.pdf

Thabnk for the informative video. I have a problem and hoping you can offer some suggestions. I have a 2004 suzuki grand vitara that sat idle in my garage for 5 years due to dead ECU. Finally I have replaced the ECU and now I have two performance issues. 1. The jeep in the morning is hard to stay idling. It starts but dies immediately or within seconds. But if I keep my foot on the pedal it stays running. Once it warms it starts easier and stays idling but for few minutes however, it starts losing RPM and starts shaking and starts shaking and runs rough and stalls. I have replaced IAC and MAS sensors but no resolution. still the problem continues with misfire and rough idle nad stalls out. I have checked fuel pressure it is within spec and steady. Also I have somkes and oil in the muffler. I have to mention during sitting I have poured oil in the sparkplug holes to avoid engine sieze. Any thoughts what causing the rough idle/ stalling. Thanks

A very informative video. Sign says ASE certified mechanics, but you didn't even torque the spark plugs. How can this be? Usually when one coil goes bad the rest aren't far behind. Should have asked the customer if they wanted to replace them all instead of just doing one. The next time one of the other one's goes out its another hour or more of labor time AGAIN. doesn't that make sense.

Very thorough diagnosis, but a physical inspection of cylinder # 4 coil, would have been the faster route to fix this vehicle. Absolutely change all spark plugs, and based on mileage # 4 coil. Also check for oil leaks by the vvt's ,and general inspection and recommendations to customer. Good job.

Today's lesson is based on 3 in 1 diagnosis , 1misfiering count 2 comprising test with hamclap Meter 3 primary coil signal test,KITS AUTO ,I thank u much all the time. Please can't the perform any comprising test without scopes or any machine?

Hey. I running to an issue I don’t know if you run to it. I have a 2017 Kia soul + engine is rebuild, new timing chain. New cam phasers, new oil pump, new crankshaft sensor, a lot of new parts starts fine no miss fire I Rev the car let gas go. And it drops to 500 rpm sometimes shuts off. If I don’t Rev it it’s fine. Throttle body changed. Cam sensors swap with another one I had. Vvt selenoids change as well. Whole engine was redone. I don’t know what it can be hoping you might have run thru a car like this!

ترجمة عربي ❤

Hi sir, can you explain how the coil shorts out thanks

Does it matter which coil you switch to? I'm having this issue on CYL 1. Getting the P0301.

💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯

A moment of silence, please everyone. _____________________________ my Kia, has finally passed away. She had a troubled soul. I feel so bad because I know she did not make it to the pearly gates. In fact she couldn’t even make it to the grocery store next door to my house. She was so fast and known around town. Oh boy did she get around. She went with anyone that had an iPhone charger.

Please which scan tool is better

I have that c1613 HECU CAN communication. TCM wrong-matched transmission failure (only system with TCS) error code on my 2017 kia soul 1.4 liter. Did you figure out the problem? All I've been able to find is to replace the TCM. Thank you for your time.

Clogged catalytic converter or fouled out catalytic converter

What happen if the check engine light doesn’t turn on. It has the same symptoms.

Grasias

Ami me paso así en un carro y le cámbie las bujías. Y listo quedó como si nada

All motor mounts need replacing plus new cats/manifold but shaking will still be present but will no longer feel it inside Soul.

you didn't answer me, well my friend, when we have misfires from fuel, do we have negative or positive f trims? in other videos they say that we have negatives in other positives. what actually applies?it is important to know what is valid in order to follow a diagnostic strategy!the same confusion exists in other topics, for example in another video they say that a damaged pcv valve causes a lean mixture in others they say that it causes a rich mixture.Does it matter if the engine has a MAF or map sensor?

Dielectric grease?

What about cyl 2 Deo(?) (Did I get your name right?)😀 Ahhhh the cyl 2 plug!

What's the purpose of clear flood mode?

Shouldn't this information come up in a inspection. Because I have been questioning issues with my 2015 kia soul during my oil changes as well as my inspections since I purchased the vehicle in May of 2021

All of this to change 1 coil only? I knew that from the beginning.

Mine is a no crank no start I have a 2019 Kia Soul

can i have plone =

Someone needs more diagnostic "training!"😮

When you were doing the relative compression test were the fuel injectors still spraying fuel into the cylinders? I did not see the fuse removed for the fuel pump or maybe some other way to keep from washing down the cylinders with gas.

please explain scope in a next video