Thank you, really good to hear it helped!

Thank you so much for the kind words, really glad to hear they have helped!

😀Thank you for the kind words!

No problem, really happy to hear it helped!

I will indeed, have two more I'm editing now, and a long list of others to make! Thank you for the kind words!

Thank you, I hope it helped!

Good to hear it helped and always after feedback. Cross-linking is a good idea! Will do that. I was torn over the heated bed and nozzle (Its something I personally do) but the Klipper documentation state "Always perform the paper test when both nozzle and bed are at room temperature!" The logic being the potential ooze of plastic from the nozzle could affect your paper test result. So, I left out my own personal preference and just linked to the Klipper page.

@@PigeonPrint So... you can get the best of both worlds by just heating the bed...

Thank you. really glad it helped. Personally, I'm a visual learner, find videos so much easier to follow than a doc!

Thank you, really glad it helped simplify the process!

Thanks, dude! comments like that are what make me want to make some more ASAP!

@@PigeonPrint Just as a comment on this, when I do this I seem to always be wayyyyy too close to the bed. And have to run 1 layer test prints where I step it up with babystepping by .005 at a time. Then re-save it with Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE after the fact. Idk if that helps anyone or if I should be running a z offset in my slicer.

@@darkdrakex personally I run offsets in the slicer as I change out layerhights and bed types quite a lot, if you mainly print one flimient at one layerhight on on bed, nothing wrong with just setting it in Klipper.

@@darkdrakex This is the command I was missing! Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Thank you, glad to hear you found it useful!

Really glad to her it helped!

I try too! Some parts of the Klipper community can be a little toxic, but like to show that just a minority!

Thank you, hope it helped!

Thank you!

Thank you, just hope it helped!

Thank you, hope it helped!

Thank you. Sincerely appreciated!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, hope it helped!

🤣🤣🤣 "here is see the majestic Klipper in its natural habitat"

Same here. It's a freaking nightmare with deltas.

First thing I would recommend is putting QUERY_PROBE in the console to check if Klipper is reading the probe as triggered and if it is there is most likely an issue with the wring, or the way the probe is set up in the printer.cfg. Possibly the pin would need inverting (you can do this with putting a ^ infront of the pin number, for example "pin: ^P1.28"

Yeah, that's right, It won't remember on the fly changes if you use the offset arrow buttons. The best options are: Change it to the new vale in your printer.cfg in the line z_offset: (keep in mind if you're coming from Marlin, in Klipper we use + no - for the Z offset, so for me its z_offset: +2.7.) Or, option two, add the extra amount you lowered the nozzle into your slicing software....most will have a Z offset option and if you found you had to adjust it say +/-0.05mm you put the Z offset in the slicer as +/-0.05. I prefer doing it in the slicer as I found layer height can have a big impact and this way I can have a profile for all the layer heights I use with the extra offset needed inside the profile itself. Hope this helps, and any other questions, just give me a shout!

@@PigeonPrint Well. It would have been so much better if we could just adjust this value on the fly. Why can't we?

@@drrandom1259 You can, have a look for the Z Offset button that has an up and down arrow and a value next to it (in this video you can see it just under the retract and extrude) here you can click on say 0.05mm and then hit the up or down arrow so you can do it on the fly and then save the offset.

Hi, are you using Fluidd, Mainsail, or Octoprint? On Fluidd you you just click the the box there it says "Z offset: 0.000mm" and pick the 0.05, 0.01, 0.025, 0.05 to select the amount, and then the up or down arrow next to them to adjust while printing. On Mainsail the arrows to do the same thing are just under the movement controls. and if using octoprint I'm not 100%, as I have not used the interface there for many years.

After. So Z offset first, then Screw tilt second 👍

Yep, you are 100% right that "Z Offset 0.000mm" will only change if you move outside of your set Z offset using the up and down buttons just to the right of it. I use it sometimes if I'm using a textured bed or a filament that may I want to be further away, for example PETG on a PEI bed, you may not want as much squish as PLA. After you have saved your offset it should be updated in the printer.cfg file under the [bltouch] heading it should say something like "z_offset: +2.8" (the + part throws some people off coming from Marlin who are used to it being a negative value like z_offset: -2.8).

Sounds like the pins from the probe are not set correctly. Can you let me know what mainboard you have, probe type, and what you have for the pins under [bltouch] sensor_pin: control_pin:

You would think that would be the case in theory, but in practice you have two factors playing a part, first the strain gauge requires some strain to actually trigger it, it has to go below the point of the nozzle into -Z to trigger. Second part is how 3D printers are slightly different to say a CNC, with my CNC I want Z0 to be exactly that, no offset, where as with 3D printing you need an offset for the filament to actually be able to leave the nozzle.

I do. It's in the Klipper Basics playlist.

I do any fine tuning adjustments in my slicer as it usually only needs changing if I'm using different layer heights, do doing it in the slicer means I can have different profiles for all the combinations I use. But you can always rerun PROBE_CALIBRATE if its off (you don't want to change it in the print.cfg file as the PROBE_CALIBRATE data is stored in a section at the bottom of the code that is not meant to be manually eddited.

Hi, in this example I'm using a printer with a Robbin Nano mainboard from NakerBase. One of the good things about Klipper is its somewhat main board agnostic, so you can use it on a hile range of mainboard, all it cares about if the pins are mapped correctly from the MCU. Most of these pin maps can be found in example printer.cfg files on the Klipper GitHub found here: github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config So, for say the original CR10, you would look in that /config folder for the "printer-creality-cr10-2017.cfg" file and cut and pate all of the text into a file called printer.cfg and Killer will use that printer.cfg file to see what pins all the things like stepper motors, thermistors, extruder, and so on are controlled by, so it can use the right pins on the MUC (MCU = Micro Controler Unit, and just means the big chip on your mainboard, you will see MCU mentioned a lot in Klipper documentation, as its basically shorthand for the mainboard you are using). If you need any help setting up Klipper feel free to give me a shout, always happy to help, and let me know what videos to make as if you're having a problem with something, then many other people will be having the same issue).

Ok, I see they have a config for the generic Mks nano v1 that the Lotmaxx SC-10 uses. I have a second Lotmaxx SC-10 I got on clearance at Wal-Mart, so I'll set it up with klipper and let you know if I run into any issues. Thanks much!

@@JohnKlopp Ah, totally misread SC-10 as CR-10, yeah there is a config for the stock Lotmaxx mackerbase board, and a few tricks to get more advance features like UART running on the stepper drivers. not a huge fan of the Robbin Nano V1 Board, so you may run into a few issues, but it will work, and just let me know if I can help

That's a really good question, and one that I have not tested out, would love to hear if it worked for you!

What sort of probe dose the Neptune 3 pro have, a mechanical or inductive?

@@PigeonPrint inductive

When ever you change your nozzle to a new one or switch between 2 types, other than that you should be good!

Only in the centre. It's just a data point for the printer to know how far from the bed it needs to be. So, if you did this and then probed the bed the printer will know how much to move up or down on parts of the bed that are too high or too low.

Hello, most of the documentation will in in the bed leveling guide here www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Level.html#the-paper-test

Hope it was helpful!

Рад помочь

Under [Stepper_Z] is the position_min: set too less then the Z offset you are putting in? For example a position_min: -2 and a Z offset of anything more then -2?

@@PigeonPrint im having this issue, im using mainsail, my position_mi is set at -5

@@dontnerfthesource is the bed past -5mm? if so you will have to change that value to a range where it will let the nozzle reach the bed.

It's a PL-05N Inductive probe, lots of people make them, most common ones are red, but I quite like the black one (they can be had for around £4/$5. So, a very CST effective option!

Hello, is it a BMG extruder clone? If so, some grease on the plastic gear may help, and make sure you have Stleth Chop disabled in you config for the extuder, as switching between modes during fast movements can make it loud. You can do this by setting stealthchop_threshold: 0 under the extruder section. Hope this helps.

@@PigeonPrint i installed a bmg clone extruder with bowden setup on ender 3 but when it retraces the extruder makes a loud noise. can you help me on how to solve it? i'm using a stock board ender 3 v2 v4.2.2 tmc2208

@@madorax251 Hi, my first guess would be that you have the extruder stepper set in stelthchop mode, so when it dose a retraction it is switching from stelth chop to SpreadCycle mode...this switching of modes tends to lead audible clunk! To fix, or at least mitigate that you could change just the extruder stepper to be in SpreadCycle mode. In your printer.cfg look for the line under [tmc2208 stepper_x] where it will say stealthchop_threshold: 250 (I'm guessing it will be set as 250 and if it is, change that to 0. this will make it so its set as SpreadCycle by default and wont make as much noise by ting to switch modes on fast movements like retractions). Let me know if this helps!

sorry missed this comment. have replied below with what I hope is a fix.

@@PigeonPrint on the stock board ender 3v2 v4.2.2 there is no stalchop setting and steper driver current setting. can only adjust the vref current manually with a screwdriver on the steper driver.

im having the same problem ..... did you resolve this?

Have you figured out how to fix this issue?

Sure thing, I used this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2898859

@@PigeonPrint thanks!

Are you using a Klipper interface like Fluidd and Mainsail, or Octoprint plugin?

@@PigeonPrint Fluid.

@@marckart66 So, just to get this clear, when it goes to probe the bed it goes to high and wont trigger, or after it triggers it move the nozzle up rather then leaving it your offset? If the later of the two is the case then that is normal. when ever it homes, or dose a mesh level with the probe it will always return to safe high. when you start a print the nozzle will move down to the set Z offset.

Easy mistake to make, it is just "PROBE_CALIBRATE" you put in, not "Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE"

@@PigeonPrint Thank you, Sir!

@@PigeonPrint I tried and the probe part was ok but im getting this error message "{'message': "Error on 'TESTZ': missing Z", 'error': 'WebRequestError'}"

@@godoegor8431 are you typing "TESTZ z=" and a + or - vale? for example "TESTZ z=-1" to lower 1mm?

I tend not to when setting up a probe for the first time. I know the internet will tell you that you need to due to thermal expansion, but as the probe will account from the coefficient of thermal expansion on the bed (usually aluminum) we can discount that as a factor, and that leave us with the nozzle, (usually Brass) that is less then a 1 cm cubed block, but as 1cm makes the math is easier, we are looking at approximately 0.038mm expansion: ΔL= 10mm × 19 × 1 parts per million per °C × 200°C ΔL= 10mm × 19 × 1 parts per million per °C × 200°C ΔL= 10mm × 0.0038mm ΔL= 0.038mm I think this is a small enough deflection to be able to then go on and adjust as needed for layer high, bed suffice type and filament type. So, I'm in the camp of do it with or without heated bed an nozzle, your going to be fine ether way.

Well that depends on what you are running Klipper on. Can you give me any more information on your setup so I can help?

@@PigeonPrint I have a neptune 4 pro that has been running perfectly since I got it from Pre order. Overnight it forgot where it's z-axis was. So I installed the the firmware updates for the board and the UI. Thoroughly cleaned the plate and dried it. I also leveled very carefully, twice. Now I am having first layer adhesion issues so I went to 220C as it's PLA and 25mm/s for first layer. I'm using Orca so I have a lot of options, what type of pattern(rectillinear, monotonic, concentric, archemedes spiral) should i use for the various layers, there's no description of which work better for what.

@@shanepatrick4534 For the Neptune 4 Pro you can set the offset through the touch screen leveling menu. Here you can put a bit of paper under the nozzle and adjust to where the nozzle starts gripping the paper, I like to set it to where the paper is easy to pull, but hard to push towards the nozzle. then you can do a bed level with the "auxiliary" setting that will let you turn the bed screws to get the bed level (using the paper method in each corner. once you have done that you an do an "automatic" level mesh and it will probe the bed all across it and update kipper with the new mesh and z offset. (but connecting it to your network and getting direct access to Klipper is a lot faster). I always use monotonic, as it give me better top and bottom faces.

@@PigeonPrint Thanks for the info, the people on reddit were not helpful in any meaningful way. I am gettin decent first layers having messed with the z axis quite a bit, now I am printing bases for warhammer fantasy and am having the corners of the bases lift so I'm trying brims and the glue stick that came with the printer.

@@shanepatrick4534 if you dont have any luck with the glue, you could try two other options, make the z offset just a little bit lower so the first layers squish into the bed better, or cleaning your bed with some isopropyl alcohol as things like oils from your hand can build up and stop the plastic from sticking (but most the time a brim will fix things!) If you have any other issues free free to message me!

Most likely the probe section in your printer config is not configured correctly. Check this video on setting up the probe kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d6ijl9GctZrNp4U.html&ab_channel=PigeonPrint

move the bed up or down to meet the nozzle.

What you say the offset changes each time you restart do you mean it changes to 0.0mm or you have to change it as your getting bad first layers every time you restart? If its the first one resetting to 0.0mm then that is normal, its saves the offset at the bottom of your printer.cfg. if its later problem it could be a bad probe. give me some more information and I will try and help.

@@PigeonPrint hello mate, i do have the same problem . i already did your step but when i do the print process, the Z axis always goes back far from the bed. hopefully you can help me.

@@gunawanred Sure will try and help, when it goes far from the bed on the screen do you see a set of boxes the show the X Y & Z coordinates? if so, doe the Z read 10mm?

@@PigeonPrint yes, it always comes back to Z = 10 mm. even when i tried manually overwrite the new Z offset in printer.cfg. nothing happens.

@@gunawanred That's a quirk of Klipper, what ever you set you offset to it will always move it 10mm above it when it homes. So if you start a print it should move down to what you set the offset to. Try a print and if the Z height is still 10mm, let me know and we can trouble shoot some more! 👍

Hello. sounds like Klipper is under the impression your probe is already triggered. I don't know much about the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. do you know what sort of probe it uses? and will it home without error (if your using the probe to home rather then a Z endstop microswitch)

@@PigeonPrint what i did for solution is : first z-height to 100mm than QEURY_PROBE once that was done PROBE_CALIBRATE to the needed z-offset. so luckily it worked out 😅

Make sure you have done "PROBE_CALIBRATE"

A ball ache that doesn't require klipperscreen

How level your bed is has zero relevance to Z offset for a probe (the topic of this video) the height of your bed at multiple points on the bed has no effect on the Z offset (Z offset is a measurement between the nozzle and the probe, the bed is not a measured perimeter just a trigger dictated by the prob itself). However, your point is valid for anyone without a probe who is using a Z endstop, but not a probe.