Thank you! Glad this is helping. For sure, I am working on input shaping now. There is SO much to explain there. It is taking a while. I will check into extruder calibration as well.

That's great to hear, thanks!

Awesome, glad everything is working out with Klipper!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

I would also, I have Klipper running with 3 Z axis and doing bed tramming on my Rat Rigs. I have a Ender 5 Plus which I want to install my spare Octopus plus board on, just don;'t know if it will benefit.

Thank s for your comment!

Glad I could help!

@@ChrisRiley Yeah man. This was the key I needed to actually FULLY dial in my Ender 5S1 and ALSO get my SOVOL SV06+ running better than the Prusa which it's a clone of. As in getting PLA quality for detailed bobble-heads but printing them out of PETG at a speed of 55-115mm/s on the Ender5 dialed in.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Dave, this is true. ;)

Thanks! That's a strange one, did you see this one? Maybe it helps? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebOdmNlzqJmopYk.html

I'm happy to help! Thanks

Thank you so much 😀

Thank you, I'm glad I could help!

Nemáš zač. Děkuji!

Happy to help! Thanks

Glad it helped!

Thanks!

Excellent! Thanks for watching!

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I was surprised at how easy the math was now.

It's the new math, just have to know which gender

I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching

@@ChrisRiley that would be awesome man thanks!!!!

Tweaking jerk could help as well, but that's actual movement, I tend to tune movement, then start to tune software or extrusion.

Thanks!

@Chris Riley I mad maxed my old biqu b1. Into a dual belts Z and all mgn12 rails and dual y and x steppers on a btt octopus main board. I am currently using an h2 v2s dd hotend setup with a beacon scanner 😆. Printer cost 250$ Mods cost around 500$. Using it to design and build a .5 x .5m x 1.5m core-xy setup with a/c servos and tool head swapping. Custom controllers are all built around Klipper and some extra custom functions. Also, the print heads are connected to something similar to ERCF feeder, but it has 48 in and 6 out. I have this built and working on my printer for testing. The frame will have spots for 6 tool heads. My goal is a large printer on network with the ability to pull from an entire wall of filaments and minimized purging required. I have the electronics worked out, just working on the frame design. Mostly laser cut sheet steel welded. Built more like industrial cnc than Hobby Printer at almost 800lbs with almost 6hp driving the gantry around with 25mm wide belts. And 3 ball screws on the Z axis. Large mains powered multiple zone pei build plate. Precision ground flat. Uses revo nozzles on a custom automated nozzle changing system on the fly.

@@ZoeyR86 Wow, this is one crazy setup. I would love to see a video of this thing in action!

Thank you! You can use this in the slicer in the gcode settings. SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=your value

Because of how it handles the start and end macros, it's really shouldn't matter what flavor you set it at. Marlin should be good.

That's the easiest place to make the updates. if it's not there you can create it. github.com/guysoft/OctoPi/blob/devel/src/modules/octopi/filesystem/boot/octopi.txt

@Chris Riley hello thanks, I don't have the boot folder. in which folder does it have to be?

@@Joshua-schiergens3D-Druck Oh, you said Windows, you would have to do that in Yawcam, it would control your windows cam.

@@ChrisRiley thanks it work. 😀

Does it have 2208 drivers? It could be a driver issue. There was a bug with 2208's.

@@ChrisRiley i will check thx

Yes, you would only us these for the test and go back to your stock ones after.

Try moving the seam location on the print in the slicer.

I'll see what I can do!

I've found with Klipper it depends if you are using input shaper. If you are it's a very delicate balance of pressure advance and smoothing.

@@ChrisRiley Yeah, I'm using Klipper with pressure advance and input shaper. I originally did the input shaper using the accelerometer method about a year ago, but found I got better results when using square tower. I started recalibrating things recently after switching to a .6 CHT nozzle, and to say the test went poorly is an understatement. I found (for me) the best way to dial it in was to start printing the tower using my normal print speeds and settings, and then tweaking the PA and Smoothing values on the fly using Fluidd. Ended up getting dialed in at .068s for PA and .035s for Smoothing. If someone else is looking to follow my "on-the-fly" tuning suggestion, look at how your print compares to values that are too high, and too low. I noticed off the bat the my ending corner gap was HUGE, which meant the value was too high. Cut the value in half, and then did half that value high/lower (and then half that... then half that...) to get dialed in. Using the arrow keys in Fluidd also helped rather than having to type in numbers. After I got the sharp corners for the PA value, I noticed I'd have ripples after the corner if my smoothing values were too high. So, I just repeated the "raise/lower by half the change" procedure (similar to how Klipper does it for probe z-offset calibration where it halves the change each time) to get rid of the ripples after corners. Hoping with the new values my seams will be a little tighter.

It is somewhat filament dependent. I would suggest you dial each type in. PLA is going to be much different than PETG, TPU I would probably suggest just turning it off.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I suspected as much, but I'm still learning. I'm currently extremely frustrated trying to get 1st layer to stick on my Ender5+ using Klipper and PETG. I thought I would like Klipper, but it's a lot more frustrating than the stock firmware. Maybe I just need to give it more time. At 67 my patience for long learning curves has diminished some (hopefully not too much). Still, it's hats off to people like you who put in the work to do these videos to educate us all.

@@ExtantFrodo2 You must have your bed very level, I use a bit of glue stick on the surface. Print the 1st layer at say 30 mm or slower till you get it to stick.. No cooling on 1st layer helps, compressing that 1st layer helps, ( setting the bed ) etc.

Yes, PA value is per filament (as Chris mentioned on the video), and ideally, your slicer should set the PA value when the print starts (as it knows what filament you are printing with)

👍🙂

Not necessarily. I slice using Prusa 2.5 and set for my smallest bed size. I have no specific printer specs, but rather let each printer use its settings. My Start code = START_PRINT, the end code = END_PRINT. each printer can have a specific macro for each and be different than the others. I'm able to print almost everything on my Ender 5 Plus, or my Rat Rig 400 or 500 using the same g-code. I have also used START_PRINT_PLA or START_PRINT_PETG

Sure! drive.google.com/file/d/1O2_3oJyoJcp1h3BN89D-3FgMjkUIlxXz/view?usp=sharing

I have it on 2 of the 3 machines, still in the update process. 2.5 really isn't a lot different, but there are a few more features I need to try.

@@ChrisRiley This is one reason I use Prusa, when they do an upgrade it doesn't seem to break anything. I will admit I never had any problems with S3D upgrades. Woops there were none.

Leave it at the default of 5, it will do the rest.

figured it out. Out of all the config its case sensitive changed it to Pressure_Advanced: it saved and no errors

Awesome! I'm glad you got it going!

Thanks!

Thanks, I'll look into it

@@ChrisRiley Sorry it's beacause i have MVS too slow at 8mm3/s i have put 15mm3/s and it's ok

Check to make sure of those slicer settings Chris mentioned, that was a hang up for me as well. Also make sure your max accelerations in your cfg are greater than that of your slicer so there aren’t any slow downs or restrictions during the print.

🙂👍

@@spanny52 Thank you, will do.

Remember to save and restart Klipper, after config change. I noticed a big change when altering the press adv on Ender 3 Pro.

I got 16, close to yours, you can if you wish turn it up and print a small test plaet. You may hear the printer making noises as it changes direction, if too high a setting. That is what I noticed, at apres advance of around 2. At my .32 it's silky smooth.

👍🙂