Thanks! Will do!

I will agree with you but I’ll also elaborate that there are many other reasons why you should use a Japanese natural stone. Not necessarily just for the irregularity of the texture of the stone. But you and I are on the same page. We had to sell show people that this exist. Not everyone comes in with all of the knowledge of everything and then has a discussion. Some people are being introduced to concepts and we have to introduce it the best way we can for them to understand. After they’ve been in the knife community for a long time then you can get into much sharper details. I’m sure your acquisition of knowledge is lead you down the biggest rabbit hole and you know things that you never thought you would have to learn. I’m glad to have you looking in on us.

@@nadm oh 100% jnats are borderline mythical in there reasons for use lol. I wasn't trying to downplay this technique or anything. Sorry if it came off that way.Just didn't see anyone talk about the reasoning (at least what I was taught) behind the dual or multi grit edge and just thought I'd chime in. Yes sharpening is a deep deep rabbit hole that'll have you rating your sharpness by how many curls off a hair you can get, and rating the health of your edge by how many chops on a end grain board it takes before you lose that hair whittling edge 🤣🤣🤣

There’s so many ways to look at it. If you make the edge so thin that it’s super sharp and it’s probably gonna be more brittle. There’s just a place that you have to find that’s sharp enough and it last for a long time. I do love the natural stones but I think it’s because it’s more romantic do you something from the earth

Yes sir! We are grinding. It’s just a time game. We’re just trying to put out good content

Thanks buddy. I didn't invent it I'm just sharing it with you.

Sounds great! Go for it!

I’m telling you that it really does help to bite into the skin of the fruit or vegetable that you’re dealing with but if you were doing fish I will stay away from it. If you’re doing regular cuts of meat you don’t really have to but you might if it’s a fatty piece of meat to have a little teeth in it. I don’t want the teeth too big because teeth fall out

That’s why he gets the big box

Now that you mention it, it would

Actually I'm pretty sure Shibata uses the same dual grit sharpening technique. When I looked on my two Koutetsu Gyuto edges under the microscope, one side was sharpened under ~800 grit and the other with ~5000 grit. The scratches were consistent under the same angle on both sides of the edge using two grits. If you sharpen under higher grit stone and then strop on a lower grit, there should be a very prominent scratch pattern from the lower grit which was not the case on my Koutetsu knives (one knife I bought a year ago, second couple of months back). The idea is the same, just stropping would not make the edge as "toothier" as from a dual grit sharpening.

@@sonecborec When he was visiting knifewear in Canada and sharpening his knives that customers brought in to re-sharpen then he was doing the techniques that I had showed and I did the two specific ones that were quoted to me by the people who hung out with him and what he did to their knives. That’s what I stated at the very beginning of the video

@@sonecborec i’ll also mention that it’s quite well-known amongst the knife shop owners that he does this. I’ve had lengthy discussions with several knife shop owners who know him personally and I will say that Dustin from real sharp knife has always gone into great links to tell me about his different sharpening edges on each side of the knife. I also stated in the video that I don’t believe he does it for every knife. I think it has to do with the knife‘s purpose. In the video I re-created the scenario in which he had sharpened my friends knives. I try to use the exact same knife and I tried to re-create exactly what he did to their knives. I stated that I only had one difference for the Sujihiki. That he used in 800 grit first dropping and I had to use the 1000 because I didn’t have an 800

@@sonecborec try it yourself, sharpening different # on either side, compared to sharpening both to the highest #, and then stropping with a lower # - the latter will absolutely blow you away in performance!

I have not but you’re more than welcome to put a link and I will check it out

There are different people who do actually do it that way. I’m not saying that it’s wrong. If you saw the other video I posted then you would see that we did a test about deburring. We found not only was it not better but really if you look at the scores it was actually slightly worse. I do believe in the science of it. I ended up being mean the entire experiment completely even

Thanks for your time! I'll have a look.

So this is the technique yes and I don’t think you need to apply it to everything. I requested in the video that you learned this theory and then apply in different ways to different types of steel and different knife shapes on different materials that you’re cutting. I think in the end you will find different winning combinations that best suits you

170mm

@@nadm Thanks!

That's a good spot but at the same time, those are already pretty thin. I definitely understand because of the price point.

I agree with you that in most situations you don’t really need to go above a threeK. Have fun playing around with that. God bless you

Nice!!!

That’s the exact statement that we made in the video itself. We literally stated in the video that you must consider the knifes purpose. I would never think that having scratches in the Apex would make it prone to rusting. That has more to do with the acidity or the moisture that is left on the edge itself. If you’re properly cleansing and drying before you put it away then you should not have that problem. A smooth edge Apex will always have longer edge retention. If you actually sharpen a knife with a toothy edge than you are prone to having the teeth fall out. This will shorten the lifespan of the edge. That is not the goal. In this instance, using certain knives that are doing a specific task, you are stropping just 2 to 3 passes which will barely create a roughness on one side of the Apex but you’re not really sharpening. The roughness just allows you to penetrate the fattiness or the skin of a vegetable or fruit or a piece of fatty meat. I would only do this technique on a knife that needs that type of edge for that type of purpose. That’s why we explain that you need to experiment on the different types of material as well as the different knife shape and for the purpose you’re using it. With fish, we stated, that you would not want to do this at all so that way you have a very clean edge on the fish that you’re cutting. As you stated, we had already agreed with you and it is proven to be true that all knives cut if they’re sharp and a clean Apex last for a very long time. And doing the different test, I had a knife sharpened to an 8k finished edge and could not slice the blueberry until I had put the slightly rougher edge on the one side. That’s not something you and I normally need to do in food prep. If the steaks or prime rib had fattiness that was exposed that it also might be beneficial. If it was a tenderloin, I probably wouldn’t need it. That’s why we stated that you should consider what you’re cutting. I would not use it for butchering poultry but I would probably want it for skinning a deer. Carbon steel knives are going to get a patina and you’re really not going to have a Rusty edge anymore from this technique if you’re probably cleaning the blade. If you’re going to be constantly in moisture and it’s not going to matter if there are scratches on one side of the edge. You’re either going to make the knife rusty or you’re going to use a stainless steel knife anyway. We just showed you that this is out there and you are more than welcome to play around with the contrasting edges to see what’s best for you. Some people would never consider this. If you’re using powdered steel like I did with the longer knife then rust would never be a factor. When I was dropping with the 2K after being on the 6K then the scratches are microscopic but yet were able to have some bite into the skin of the blueberry. This could be helpful with tomatoes to not leave any juice on the cutting board.

I’ll have to ask you, I don’t understand the statement that this is not up to our normal quality of videos. It’s an individual video with knowledge acquired from him sharpening knives in Canada at knifewear. All we can do is tell what we’ve learned from the individual when he sharpened to Knives. I don’t understand if you’re talking about the camera angle or if you just think they were lying or something like that but I don’t really understand your statement.

I was doing this on a 50-50 bevel. I just like a little bit of teeth on the inside. I was not doing this on a single bevel knife. We were not trying to make it a symmetrical. We were just doing a stropping technique on the inside to give a teeth but not to grind it more. I wanted to keep the 50-50 bubble, but just barely put a separation on the edge with 2 to 3 passes. This is what he did on two knives at knife, where in Canada. One was a Gyuto, and the other was a Sujuhiki. Thank you for the comment. I always take more information. I only have the experience on the two knives that he did.