Thanks for your work demonstrating the Sharpworx system and your Edge On Up idea. I ordered a Sharpworx with a diamond plate and diamond emulsion and have had excellent results. My test subjects have been some chef’s knifes and I have not been able to get as sharp an edge with other guided stone systems. Your discovery of the Edge On Up hack, and proof of concept demonstration prompted me to order the Amazon Scale and EOU ATF10G and DoubleX+ Test Media. Those parts are now on the way and will be useful to quantify my results. Keep the videos coming. -Biwwdabeah

God bless you brother. That was a great video, I just found Sharpworx yesterday and today you came up and sealed my decision to purchase one. I am a sharpener and have a bunch of different machines but wanted a fixed angled stone system that I could trust. I have no idea why I didn't find them before yesterday but I'm glad I did. Thanks again for the video!

I have a worksharp I’ve been using on pocket knives but found larger knives moving around. Ordered a sharpworx yesterday for my kitchen knives to use on my bench stones.

Great video. I loved your message in the last few seconds of the video. You’re a good egg.

If you have to press to make some side flat with the stone, you are putting more pressure on another side of the edge (that already touching the stone without you press it) and in the long run you will alter the edge profile of the knife.

How long did it take to edit your video. The amount of transitions is amazing.

Excellent video. You earned my subscription and bell notification.

Amazing video sir

I just subscribed. I always wondered if you could just use a regular scale to and didn't realize you could get ones with hold feature like this. Thank you my man. When I looked there is two different models .1 g and .01g. I got the .01g for better accuracy

Thanks

Unrelated to this video, but you saved me from buying a bad air quality monitor with your other videos. I would like to see a test of radon detectors. I had planned on buying a test kit which is mailed to a lab, but some of the reviews question their validity. It would be nice to have an affordable meter to test for myself if such a thing exists. Thank you!

*gonna watch the video later today, but what i can already say is the comperasion which makes the knive sharper isnt such a sencefull approach, the question is which is faster and more ergonomic. Extreme sharpness can also be achived with low grit as long as the stropping is done very good. ->Edit, if you sharpened two times with the same systems and measured it, that changes it, as the *chance* of slightly higher/lower sharpness gets reduced compared to just one Will comment more later, great video idea to review this unique sharpener! 👍

I've never used a machine before just free hand and I can't afford one a those fancy stones, I usually just pick one out of the driveway. And when I get done I pick a hair out of my beard and if I can split it anywhere on the blade I'm happy 😮 All jokes aside, weather with a machine or free hand, your personal stance and ryithum is what makes the difference. Keep the ryithum, I liked the video 📹

You get your knives sharp, so everything im gonna write is not "needed" but just additional tips to make things faster&easier. At 24:10 you lift the blade for every pass, that will drasically worsen the abrasion/time ratio. Doing it back and forth (no matter how exactly you move it along, thats personal preference) is more than twice to trice as fast. Ofcourse at first do whatever feels good, but there is always the option to improve and become comfortable with the more efficient option. Also if you do edge leading to minimize the burr, thats not needed this early in the sharpening. Also edge leading results in a slightly thicker apex, but reduces the need for stropping. Though edge trailing, with stropping is sharper. And if you will keep all grits at the same angle, thats a bit of a waste of time, as you need to get out the scratches & sub surface damage of the previous grit. Also if the edge gets tiny damage/normal wear, the volume of steel to remove is very large due to the large surface of that one bevel. I like to do 3 steps, of which some can be skipped depending on amount of wear. 1. Thinning / Relief Beveling: (While an optimum new blade with a full flat grind and a very small bevel is optimal, over time this will get thicker, and thinning the whole sides takes aaaages without, and even with powertools.) So instead i thin the thick edge bevel by estabilishing a new 10dps "relief" bevel. This gives extremly good cutting geometry, reducing wedging, but is way faster to do and doesnt scratch the sides. You can do this with very low grit, but could quickly smooth the surface a bit with finer grit, you dont have to remove the sub surface damage, just so that it decreases the friction when cutting. 2. Apexing / Microbeveling: Take the finest stone you have, and sharpen at your intended edge angle, edge trailing (results in thinner edge) and side alternating passes, until the bevel is roughly 0.1mm wide, which should be *extremly quickly* due to the low surface area and by that volume. This bevel gives the needed stability only where its actually needed, most damage is only 0.02mm to max 0.05mm large (done a lof of tests on that.) So 0.1mm is very save. 3. Stropping, side alternating edge trailing. You need to figure out how much passes you need on average to fully remove the burr, its good to figure out the sharpness/time ratio. 15 passes per side depending on strop and knive might be almost as sharp as 100 but way more time efficient, but too few might leave a burr. That should pop a free standing hair, about 2cm above where you hold it. (Good test for max sharpness.) Btw you got good bess results! Great thing now is, that you have an edge with: -reduced wedging -stability where its needed -extremly fast to touch up microbevel So: -if its just slightly dull, strop it shortly -if you see small edge damage, do some passes on the microbevel with your finest stone (the volume of steel to remove is extremly small), then strop -of the microbevel gets to large, thin it again No more full resharpen because of tiny edge damage needed. 😉👍 And on the sharpener, i think its awesome! Way bigger stone, and way more stone choice. The one thing it lacks is the ability to do fast alternating passes for microbeveling and stropping. So despite any guiding systems, i ended up doing that per hand, as long as i check the angle after it, and to the hair pop test, thats fine for me. But for setting the 10dps relief bevel, guided systems are a blessing! Btw 29:22 to 21:29 😉...

Hi. Nice video and some nice gear you are using. I stumbled upon the sharpworx system yesterday, and I couldn't find much information except from sharpworx themselves. But I have a Question, you mention a similar system from Germany. I live in Norway and due to shipping, duties etc the price of the sharpworx wil at least tripple. So I want to check out the german system as well, to see if it is possible to get.

I do apologize to anyone that is a pro at sharpening for my presumption that I could even begin to think I could possibly help anyone when it came to sharpening knives because of my lack of experience... But... I just had to get this sharpening system noticed the best way I could by doing my part to help Mark (SharpWorx). I would also like to give a shout-out to Burrfection for all his help making videos that give people a confidence to begin sharpening. Please check this guy out - he is awesome, and novices like me can learn a great deal from him - www.youtube.com/@Burrfection Knowing (through much research) that there are allot of people that take their sharpening very seriously, I wasn't sure I should be so bold as to attempt a video like this, but I suddenly remembered one of the best things I like to say, and that is - If I don't take that first step (no matter how scary), how will I ever succeed at anything?.. Just-a-thought... Please let us know here, what technique you have found that puts you into that comfort zone of sharpening. It will be great to hear other points of view.

Where did you get your stones? The ones you recommend are not 180x60 to fit that machine as far as I can tell. They were shorter, wider and thinner than what comes with the Sharpworx system. Did you modify the mount in some way? Thanks for the nice demonstration.

For the average user, it seems that the roller type sharpeners make stones and other types of systems obsolete.

Click here ⬇️ if you cringed watching Steven dull the knives on the ceramic rod 😳😧🫣🤢.

You are totally using the worksharp wrong Steven. You need to do back and forth motion on the one side of the blade until you develope a burr then flip the knife and repeat once the burr is developed on the other side flip the knife raise the grit and do it all over again continue this until you have gone hey all of the grits. Then strop your knife with pull motions only. 10 stokes per side. If you feel you need more do more. Your testing is not fair because you are not ushering the work sharp system correctly.

no professional uses anything you have. sorry! wont thin your knife when it needs, wont take your bolster down.