Glad you found it useful. I hope the repetition didn't drive ya nuts. I had no idea I was repeating myself so much, till after I slapped it all together :p

Check out my "how do you hold consistency" video too. It may be beneficial to you

Thank you for checking them out!

Thanks for watching. I apologize at the video length. It was meant to be short and sweet. Once i got started i realized there is ALOT to explain

Thanks :) I'd rather folks take what they can, from my experience. I make a little off youtube, that is sufficient for me

Little long, but I wanted to try to document it all, with detail ;) Thanks for checking it out

Little long ? Not at all. A good beginning takes time. There is no shorcut to that. Thanks again.

Thanks. I tried to cover as much as I could. I may have squeezed too much in, but it's out there now. Hopefully those looking, can sort through it all. Cheers!

Thank you. I tried to cover everything I do. It's not as easy to describe as you would think.

Thanks. I need to revise it

Make sure ya check out my consistency video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r8lgoM1yzryqpIk.html

Jef Jewell I have exhausted all my options, know i am thinking to start sharpening my butter knives 😁😁

rofl. get the neighbors knives.

Thank you sir. Appreciate the kind words 🙏

Jef Jewell ☺️

1 more for ya. :) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r8lgoM1yzryqpIk.html

@@Jef Lol I did that just yesterday on a knife I'm going to train and practice with! I went for a burr as fast as I could on a coarse stone, flipped it over repeated, stropped a little and it was UGLY, convex and inconsistent.. but it sliced through paper, cardboard more cleanly than some factory edges I have.

😁👍

Wow. Thank you very much for the kind words. I appreciate it. I have picked apart just about every video I could find on youtube, when I first started, trying to learn how to free hand. I made a few errors while making this one, but over all I think it's ok. Showing the bevel and the edge while in process, would have been a huge benefit to me, had I seen it during my sharpening journey. I tend to forget these minor things when making vids, but I am trying to remedy that. Hope it helps you. Thanks for subbing!

My email said you had a question about burr removal, but I don't see it posted here... I guess you deleted it. I'll answer regardless; The best way to remove the burr, is to not grind one. Watch that reflection of light as I describe in the video, and once it disappears, lighten pressure and do maybe 10 alternating stroke. Test the edge. It should be sharp, with minimal, to no burr. You can go to a finer stone at this point, or you can stop. Do 5-10 alternating passes at a time. Keep testing the edge, until you are satisfied with the sharpness. Another option is to microbevel. That is, raise the angle 3-5 degrees higher than you sharpened, and do a few light alternating passes, hitting only that apex. Test the edge as you go, and do 3-5 passes until it cleanly cuts paper. I am awful at this technique, but it does work, once you learn how to do it. This is a surefire way, to remove any burr, and get a very sturdy edge, in the process. Lastly, to remove a burr, you can do 1-2 very high angle passes, (very high), and then return to your original angle. Try to grind a few dozen passes or so, until you remove any hint of where that high angle was, and you should be burr free. I think steel drake went over a few of these techniques, in video, if you would like to study it further. I just do alternating passes, until I can no longer detect the burr. Stropping afterwards, removes any remnant that is left.

Yea i do like the glass stones in terms of speed and efficiency. Esp the higher grit polishes that can be achieved. As far as the King go, I could never tell much difference between the 800, 1k, and 1200. They all seem to feel very similar (kds). Now there is another model King offers, i forget the designation, but it is softer. The mud produced from it is pretty heavy. I never cared for that version.

Thank you kindly 🙏 I fear i repeated myself too much and got off topic more than once. I really need to do a new updated video. Perhaps try to keep it under ten minutes.

Thank you. Hope it’s helpful

Jef Jewell yes it was very helpful. I learned with the trailing edge method on kitchen knives but I have always found pocket knives difficult to deal with that method. Been meaning to try your sweeping motion to see if that works better for me.

Both are very capable. I just have issues with the amount of material diamond removes. I'd recommend you look into the resin diamond stones that Venev offer. Naniwa also has a set, as do one or two other companies. King makes a 1k diamond resin, and edge pro, has a full line. Their stones are obviously made for a 'kme like' contraption, but I have sharpened on them freehand, many times. Otherwise, I would tell ya to avoid diamond, and get 3 stones. Gritomatic silicone carbide. 240, 1k and 2.5k. Toss in a strop, and you are rocking. Gritomatic also sells the Venev diamond, if you care to have a look at pricing. I've done a few videos with em, just search my channel. Good luck! Glad to hear you were able to gain some tips from my video. I really feel like I should redo it, and try to condense the info down, but from start to finish, there is ALOT to cover.

@@Jef Thanks for getting back. I'll check out your suggestions. If you do redo the video, if it's possible, I would suggest a sample camera angle when you're stroking the stone that's over your shoulder. My right/left brain was going a little crazy. Maybe it's just me. Again, in addition to all of your commentary as you paced through the video, the real helpful part for me was emulating your stroke. Thanks again!

Thank you for the kind words 🙏 I’ve debated remaking this video and trying to shorten it. It could use some polishing but i made it on the fly one night. No planning. Just hit record and started 🙂 I’ve sharpened on ceramic cups before. Bricks and concrete as well. Also river rocks and other oddities that you wouldn’t normally see. As long as your technique is good, it can be done 👌

It's cliche, but practice. Repetition, and muscle memory :)

Yep, you bet. :)

create a burr on both sides, before switching stones

Awesome! Glad you found it useful. The only stone holder I have tried, is the one shown in video. It is just a standard universal stone holder, from chef knives to go. Approx $30. Sink bridges are a bit finicky. I have bought 3 of them, and none fit my sink. That is why I have that big plastic food tray, I've shown in a few videos. It was purchased locally from a restaurant supply shop, approx $20. The Suehiro sink bridge fits across it very well. I got that from Japanese knife Imports, but I seen Chef knives to go carries them now as well. Both approx $40. Stones are really gonna depend on budget. I always recommend Shapton Pro, if you have some money to spend. 320, 1k, 5k is a solid 3 stone set up. If you wanted to throw in a 4th stone, you could either go coarser or finer. The 2k is an excellent choice to follow the 1k, and the 8k fits perfect behind the 5k. I rarely go that fine, because once I hit 5k and strop, the edges I get are plenty sharp. Plus, the polish is bright enough to satisfy my desires. If money is tight, the Imanishi 400 Latte is a fantastic starting point. It is hard, and scratchy. Exactly what I like. The price is nice too. Around $50. From there, the King 1k/6k combo is an excellent choice. The 6k is a bit softer than I like, but just getting started, it is solid. Again, those 3 stones will get ya where ya need to go, and adding a 4th is just icing on top. Skies the limit, and you can again, pick either coarser, or finer. It's up to you. If the King brand doesn't suit you, I've heard the Imanishi 1k/6k combo stone is a fantastic substitute, although I haven't tried one...Yet. It is approx $55. If you just want the best of the best, and want my current favorite set up, I would say 400 Imanishi Latte, 1k Nubatama Ume extra hard, 2k Shapton, 5k Shapton. Then a DLT XL double sided strop, with compound of your choice. White compound, from Stropman is still my favorite, although he passed away recently. His compounds are still available on ebay, and his website. I imagine once they are sold out, I'll have to find a new compound dealer. Be prepared to spend a little money, and you would have to contact Kenneth Schwartz through email or telephone, to order the Nubatama stone. Obviously, Shapton Pro 1k could fill that spot, but the Nubatama is just my favorite all around do everything stone. This technique works on just about anything with an edge. I don't change my methods for kitchen, or pocket knives. If you watch any of my videos, the only thing I didn't do in this one, is pin point pressure, grinding up the blade. I just wanted to show a basic, easy to do technique. Flattening plates/stones are a bit over priced in my opinion. I used a 140 grit Atoma plate in this video. The DMT plates in my experience, shed the diamonds too quickly. If you want to save a few dollars, get a scrap piece of glass, and some silicone carbide powder, and use that to flatten stones. They sell them in 4 grit packs on ebay fairly cheap. Just look for 'rock tumbling grit'. It is my preferred method, and I have several videos showing the procedure. Stefan Wolfe has a bunch of videos too, and documents the process extremely well. Hope that helps ya!

Jef Jewell wow! Great information. I can't thank you enough!

Appreciate the sub!

no problem! check out my channel and sub back if u feel like it :)

Depends on your budget and what you are trying to sharpen. A solid set would be the King brand. 220, 1k/6k combo, would do just about everything you could need. From reprofiling a knife, to getting nice shine and polish. An alternative to those would be the Imanishi Latte 400, 1k/6k combo. They are priced well, and are harder stones, than King. If price isn't an issue, I always suggest Shapton Pro. They are the stones I started with, and have never regretted using them. To this day, they remain my favorite go to set up. 320, 1k, 5k is a solid 3 stone set up, or throw in the 2k as well, to help refine the scratches before 5k. I also suggest getting a strop, with compounds. There are hundreds out there. The strop block from knives plus is fantastic. Preloaded with compound, and your choices of green or white compounds. I prefer white, but the green isn't bad either.

Thanks!

It is a similiar thing to following the belly curve of a secondary edge. You just have to lift your hand slightly, to get to the tip area. Check out a few videos on my convex sharpening, to kind of see how I demonstrate it. It isn't difficult, but since the Opinel are pretty thin, it may feel odd and flex.

Hi Jef. Found this. Is he (Ken Schwartz) NOT lifting because he's angled the belt, therefore would lift if at a horizontal? I'm going dizzy getting my head around this concept.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mqqjisuQsp22lZ8.html Going to send you another next!!!!! Pete.

Belts are completely different from stones. I can't even start telling you whats what with those, cause I don't think they are appropriate for sharpening. They heat the edge up too hot, and ruin the temper. Just my opinion, many others swear by them. Unless they are water cooled, I'll avoid em. As for stones, if you lay the knife on the stone, and put pressure on the flat where the tip is, notice the handle raises higher. That is what you must mimic when holding it. Make sure the blade isn't flexing because that will cause differential grinding.

Hi. I can, and do do it it Jef, Just trying to understand the why of it. I think I'm settled on it now. I do overthink things you know. ATB. Pete. Ps. Sharpened both no9's this morning. One flat zero ground, the other a laid back secondary. They are both doing push cuts on phonebook paper, cross grain!!! off a 400 diamond.

Diamonds can leave amazingly sharp and crisp edges. Although I have never been a fan of them, I can't dispute their results. The why of it is geometry. I'm no mathematician so I won't try explaining it, but there are a few videos discussing belly and tips, and how the angle of attack changes. If you haven't ever reached out to Cliff Stamp, he has a forum where many knife sharpeners discuss all things. You could always pose your questions there, or try to email him directly. He has always been very accommodating to me, when I have asked him direct questions through email. I know he is a busy man, but he has always freely shared his knowledge with me.

Depends on the stone in use. This particular Nubatama stone, requires about a 10 minute soak, to get saturated. After that, i just splash as needed. That is, when the swarf gets thick, with dark metal filings, or the stone starts to feel dry. Other stones do not require soaking. They can be used, out of the box, with just a splash of water. If you are unsure, try to google the stone you are using, and see what others recommend, before you soak them. Some splash n go stones, can crack, if you soak them. Otherwise, it’s personal preference. There is a higher degree of cutting, from the stone, when it is dryer. Personally, i prefer to have it well lubed. If i could find some sort of steady drip, as i worked, i would make use of it. Oil stones are a completely different beast. I recommend soaking them in oil upon buying. Leave them for a few hours. Over night would be even better. Place them on a rack to dry, obviously with some thing under near to catch any dripping. After that, when you use them, it should only require a few teaspoons, if that, of oil, to keep them lubed. Again, as the stone drys while sharpening, i would refresh as needed. These days, i rarely use just oil. I find a combination of, one part baby oil, one part dish soap, and 4 part water, to suffice. I tinker with those ratios, as i see fit, to get a consistency i prefer, but that is the basic recipe. I only use this concoction, on natural stones, and oil stones. I do not recommend, especially water stones that have magnesia bases, placing oil on them. Oil on some water stones, while inert, i fear, could damage them. Possibly, even crack them. Some water stones are more forgiving; the traditional, older type. As an example: the King brand. I have used oil on my 1k King water stone, with satisfactory results, but again i do not recommend it. If your stone gets damaged, i would hate to see blame placed at my feet 🙂

@@Jef I have a Smiths Tri-Hone. Not too much out there on it. It comes with a solution but the stone seems to just soak it right up. I’ll have to experiment with it.

Soak the stones in oil. That is, if they are the oil stone versions. Inhave one as well. Think i did several videos on it. Search my channel for smith.

@@Jef thank you

Just a DMT fine. I think it is the 4" Machinist Diamond. That looks like the model anyways.

Thank you!

Actual favorites to use or just a solid line up to cover all ranges? I’ll answer both ways 😁 Favorite line up - 120 Shapton Pro, 400 Imanishi Latte, 1k Nubatama Ume xhard, 2k Shapton Pro, 4k Nubatama Ume, 5k Shapton Pro. Generally I’d stop here, and strop. If I want more polish however, 8/15k Shapton pro. A solid line up that covers all bases - Gritomatic 240, 1k, 2.5k. Cuts every steel I’ve used it against, won’t break the bank, and leaves a decent finish. Want more polish? Throw in your choice of Shapton Pro 2/5k or any other polishers between 2-8k. Sky’s the limit here. The 2.5 Gritomatic leaves you in a nice position to transition to many finer grit polishing stones. Generally, in my videos, I go to Naniwa pro 3k, then Shapton Pro 5k.

I’ll have to check out Gritomatic! Thank you Jeff

Where do I locate these gritomatic stones? the only I see are for guided sharpening systems like KME, Hapstone etc.

Sorry I just seen your reply. Never received a notice it was here. Gritomatic.com sells them, however, they have been out of stock for almost a year now. Supposedly they are coming "soon", but your guess is as good as anyone's, when that will be. I'd suggest trying to get on their wait list for them, and when you receive an email in stock, to grab a set. They are about as good as you can get, without having to use diamonds.

www.gritomatic.com/products/8-x-3-silicon-carbide-sharpening-stone

Look at the scratch pattern. You can even create a burr on the 1k if necessary. The scratch pattern is your biggest indication though. It should stretch all the way across the edge bevel, down to the apex. Magnification can help, but not required. Another alternative is to mark it with sharpie again. Make sure your sweeps are removing it entirely in one pass.

I talk about this at the 34:00 minute mark

@@Jef thanks. Its just that i recently got a buck spitfire that seemed uncannily blunt. So i thought of sharpening it a bit, but was unsure which grit to start off with.

I did a video on a Spitfire. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oMpkhLKSz9C0oXU.html

There are a bunch. Try searching my channel. Heres a few kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLl4lpN41MCukps.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/idOnh9KcupfIgJc.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r718e7ylm83IoKs.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eN-jjL2HtLvSeI0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fp6XqpSnpq7Vd6M.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p89kdKpiz6ebj40.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jJOherB4ztnZooU.html

Following the curve like I do in my long sweeps, maintains the belly line. Virtuovice convexing all his edges, hence the 90 degree to the stone angle. What do I think about it? Obviously it is an issue for him. Personally I never flattened out a belly line like he did, so I can't say much about it. I've always lifted my hand in that fashion, jus naturally. It's good he has figured it out, but he also made a video, pushing the knife into the stone, that basically defeated the whole purpose. Might as well be sharpening straight into it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fJ2Iesl_qJ-mpXk.html This is incorrect

Yeh Jef, I've seen that link but thanks for sending it. I'll try not to bother you with my theories, unless I "just have to" LOL!!!! ATB. Pete.

It’s all good. I can’t promise you I know everything when it comes to sharpening. But I can try my best to describe what I do. If you have any questions feel free to ask. If nothing else maybe we can run it by someone else and ge a real answer

Cheers Jef.