Glad you understand what i was showing off. Kinda hard to describe to those who just don’t sharpen or realize what they are looking at. I’ve never been ashamed to show off my mistakes as it helps me learn. Wish more sharpeners would do the same. It takes quite a bit of effort to do a video like this. Not so much the recording but the editing. Now a days, i just dont think i would have it in me to go this far. It’s nice to know someone is still out there checking it out. Thanks for the comment and watching! 🙏

Thank you for the kind words 🙏 I wish you and yours joyous fortune

T1 is a little more simple. Plus, it isn’t a giant apparatus. I think the t1 is much easier. However, this device is no slouch. It does what it does, well. Honestly, they are so different, its hard to compare. If i had to choose one…i would prob go with the sharpworx. Just bc it doesnt have jaws that clamp. I’ve always had issues with the stones rubbing the tip of the clamps, and a few other annoyances.

@@Jef Does the Sharpworx get in the way at all for freehand motion/positioning? That's one of my worries since the goal would to just eventually not use it at all. The setup definitely looks more involved which makes the T1 more appealing. I do sharpen smaller pocket and paring knives but they don't get used/wear as often as my bigger kitchen knives. I'm assuming it'd be less of a worry with the stones rubbing on clamps with taller blades?

Actually, smaller blades rub more. The apex is right smack against the clamp mouth often times. This device can get in the way of your natural motion, if your motion doesn’t follow along, with its trajectory. I didnt find it to be a major issue, but definitely something i noticed. Someone else mentioned, it completely changed how they did things. As long as you allow the system to do its thing, it shouldn’t be a problem. Look through here for comments from others, who mentioned this. You may gain some insight, or even ask them, some follow ups as to how they dealt with it.

lol this video is so awful. I wish it wasn’t as popular as it’s become, bc i would delete and redo it. Too long, too much talking, and i just didn’t end, when i should have. Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment 🙏

Yes. The system rotates with the belly very well.

😂 yea the single edge isn’t exactly pretty. Still, dagger style makes a poor edc, imo.

Thanks for checking it out 👊

and a good dry lube would be great too...(for the rods) dont skimp on the stones is my guess...for my cnc i always buy quality bits

Scratching the main grind? If so then you are likely holding the angle to acutely, or the main grind has some issues. Take a photo of your angle, or even a short video; email it to me. Jefjewell @ gmail . Com Sharpal, btw, are some shady ass people. They had me do an “honest” review, and threatened to sue me, if i didn’t pull it down. I showed how the stones go bald, and how poorly they are made. Just a lil fyi for ya.

Awesome 👏 Just use the sharpie trick, or neevesknives solution of allowing your finger to indent against the spine and mark it with a sharpie. If your unfamiliar check his channel for the tutorial. Its pretty clever.

If you cant locate it let me know and i will shoot a quick video showing the process

@@Jef oh shoot, thanks for the tip. ill go check it out, my stone just got here.

The water is just room temp/cold water, from the tap. The bottle is the same. Just plain, room temp, tap water.

I used them in order of micron level. It sounds like i misspoke. 1 micron - 0.5 micron - finishing on 0.25 micron.

The lowest setting is 10°. You might be able to fiddle with the arm to get even lower, but i don’t think it would be ideal, for that process (thinning). Thinning requires alot of grinding, on a fairly large surface. I found diamond plates work extremely well on v bevels, but large surfaces, they are slow. For this process, i find friable stones, to be the best option. With a stone that sheds grit readily, you don’t have to apply a ton of pressure. There are many options to choose, but if speed is what you are after, look to the criteria i spoke of. The shapton pro 120, and the norton crystolon, are among my two favorites. Yes, the norton is considered an oil stone, but you can use it with water. I soaked mine in oil for 24 hrs, and let it air dry after. Since that time, I’ve mainly used a water/oil/soap mixture as my main lubricant. You could just use water, or even soapy water, if you wanted. Either way, it’s a fast, coarse stone, that’s friable. On another note, if you are just set on diamond, consider a very coarse resin bonded stone, like venev. The coarsest available is suitable, although it would not be my first choice. Or, if you just want a plate, try something like chef knives to go, store branded diamond plate, at 80 grit. There maybe coarser out there, but it’s the only one i know of, off the top of my head.

@@Jef 10dps is really dissapointing, i sometimes want 8 or even 6 for transition bevel, before 15dps mircobeveling. (RIP Cliff Stamp.) Also scienceofsharp showed that DMT cut literally 10 times slower than atoma on larger surfaces, likely due to the pattern on the atoma having more pressure. So i wouldnt generalize it, but keep your experience in mind. I would try to get the deep scratches out with a 325grit diamond plate.

That is interesting, that they have such a big difference in cutting speed, on large surface areas. I can’t say i have tried to compare them side by side, but i do like, atoma, over dmt. My dmt have shown many issues in qc, from abrasive particles on a fine stone, leaving deeper scratches than my ex coarse, to plates having actual dents, that caught my edges, as i did fwd strokes. Atoma, on the two plates i have tried, were just better, in all ways. Speed, qc, and scratch patterns. The few times i have used diamonds to thin a knife, i felt like pressure was required. It is probably just a trick of the mind, from using water stones. It’s just something i recall, and couldn’t say one way or another, if it helps. Just throwing it out there. 👍

@@Jef Yeah, QC with DMT is suprisingly terrible, and there is grit contamination. In his tests its abrasion rate (on larger surface) was as efficient as a 16k stone... 😂 And regarding diamonds, usually people say very light pressure with diamond, but thats for sharpening, which is way less contact area, i think for thinning one can and data shows should use much more force.

You do not have to flatten then after every single use. Shapton are hard and maintain shape extraordinarily well. You Should be able to sharpen a good 6+ knives on em, before you need to consider this. Hell I’ve done a dozen and still had decent flatteness. On that note, if you are going to use a diamond plate to flatten, get the atoma 140. It’s coarser and Will do a faster job. They sell cheap diamond plates at chef knives to go, in the 80 and 140 grit range as well.

Btw flattening before/after each use wears the stones faster. You have to replace them more often, doing so. This is why Shapton recommends it. They make more money

@@Jef I read more comments after this and noticed that this method gives more use out of the block, I am very new to this, like extremely so thanks for the info and I have decided to use the method in the video to extend the longevity of my blocks. What grit of Silicon Carbide for the aforementioned blocks do you recommend? I noticed you used a finer grit on your finer grit blocks as well.

I believe i started with 120/220, and the finer stones, i took to 400/500 grit. Many loose silicone carbide powders, are sold in sets, of four grits. If you just prefer to buy em all separately, maybe grab 96 grit, 120, and 500. They are all capable, but 96 helps speed things up. Otherwise, just snag the 120/220 and 500. Those should get you where you need to go, with little fuss 🤘

@@Jef So just to confirm, 96 grit is fine on the finer blocks and won't damage it?

You can sharpen em several times before they start thickening Up and cutting poorly. Plus the sharpened edge seems to last longer than fresh out the box 👌

I’ve held a few knives that it didn’t bother me so much. Still, i agree. Make use of the real estate available

Exact same process for flattening and conditioning. The only difference between the uf and the fine, is surface texture. You can change both with loose sic powder. I did a video or two on spyderco ceramics. I think they are awesome. Just fine. I use em for touch ups

@@Jef Thanks!

Its faster than shapton 320. I would put it up against the sp 120. I had a burr on some of this edge after the first few strokes.

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The “best” non diamond coarse stone on the market? That is a bold statement. I consider myself a connoisseur of coarse stones. You have definitely got me interested. I’m buying one 😁🤙

Well i was gona buy it. It’s 88$. Too many cheaper options on the market like the norton crystolon

👊

Thanks for checking it out 🙏 Yea I’ve just about given up on knives makers getting the choil correct, but i gotta call em out on it. If enough customers realize there is an issue, and voice concern, maybe someone, somewhere, will listen 😁

Hope you enjoy it! I’d advise watching some more videos on it, to make sure my details are correct 😂 Not coming with instructions is just silly

Hey. Yes no instructions was a little odd. But I watched your great video again to get how to assemble. Got ab angle cube also. Just done my chefs knife. 400 diamond then 1000 diamond followed by 6000 grit. And strop. Wow. Razor sharp. Way better than my horl2. Thank you

Glad it helped

Thanks for watching 🙏

Thanks bro. Hope you’re good, and life is going your way 🤙

@@Jef enjoying summer here 🙂

Yea that seems to be the consensus. Everyone knew but me 😂

Right on. I guess it’s just the way they do things if you have that many examples.

@@Jef Ya… I really don’t get it either for that price point. I think it was Apostle P that said, Strider guys are like Jeep guys. Like, we know they aren’t the “best.” Sure, they could be considered overpriced. But hey, we like them. Though I will say with the ever increasing price, I have not bought any new pieces in a while. They were expensive back when they were cheaper.

lol Rob nailed it. I’m with ya one the purchase halt. I have only grabbed a handful of knives, in the last 3-4 years. China quality, hasn’t changed any U.S. manufacturing habits, so i doubt anything will. Even some of thier knives, are starting at an absurd amount.

Should be on the video description but i forgot to mention it while recording. It’s just 20cv

I can see it being a bit annoying, but the tanto, fake out grind, is what would upset me. It's like the belly was just placed flat against the grinder. You can really see it in the opening shots.

Thank you 🙏 I make mistakes all the time, but like guitar playing, if you play through, they tend to be unnoticed :D

Any time ;)

Riight? How does that even happen? It would be one thing if these knives weren't that expensive.

That tickled me hard!

They have there appeal but when they cost more than a Chris reeve it’s kinda silly.

The behind the edge thickness was surprisingly good. However, that stock, is a thick one.

As always, I truly appreciate ya watching, and commenting :D

Oh yea :) I forgot how much I liked it

Edge leading is the way to go. Edge trailing, tends to create burrs. Not an ideal move, for removing them. Everyone has they own way of doing things. If it works for you by all means 👍

Never had that happen, yet, but nice to know it may. Thank you 🙏

Which part did you add the washer? Where the knife clamps down with magnets, or the rod pivot that adjusts the level? Thanks for the info!

@@Jef I dissaaaemblied the clamp. To acsess top center screw. Take apart the clamp. On the bottom there are a nut. Take it off and add a greased washer. All contactpoints were lubed or greased or both.

sharpworx should add a lubricating guide ...no one gives instructions anymore

Awesome question! I spoke about this in one of my flattening videos. I usually take it outside and dump it. If it is light in moisture, I’ve even dumped it in my trash can. In this scenario, however, i had very little cloudiness in the water when finished; i just tossed it down the sink. Not the best option, since the sediment can eventually build up, and cause plumbing issues. I’m in an apartment currently, while saving for a house. Not really concerned with it here 😂

I’ve been accused of it. When i have spoken incorrectly i try to correct it. Some folk just don’t take kindly to misrepresentation, unintentional or not. 🤓🤷‍♂️

@@Jef I wonder what those guys would say about someone like Burrfection. I bet they like him.

I dont watch burrfection but i hear he has a rabid following. Has he made false claims? Is no one in the comment section calling him out?

@@Jef to be fair to the guy, in the earlier videos he basically admits he does't have any experience or really know anything, and it's something he's "diving into." but then he goes on to make 1000 more videos where he's basically teaching others about knives and stones and never bothers to actually learn accurate info. So I would say yes, his videos are loaded with misleading information at best. It's all very promotional. I don't he cares, he's just trying to sell stuff and make money.

Yea i watched his videos when he first started. Think he had just a handful. I made a few comments about technique or stones, i cant recall, but his next video put out, claimed he was being attacked. 🤷‍♂️ I quit watching him after that.

Me too!

I like it too

@@Jef Marc @sharpworx is a great guy. I wish him good health and prosperity

Tohiro reg yes. From chef knives to go. It’s became my go to knife, for one reason. Stainless steel. I don’t have to wipe it down every time i cut, no worries of getting that carbon steel taste, on my food. Esp acidic stuff like tomatoes. I love it, and as you said, what more do you need in kitchen knife steel?

Glad it was helpful!

Yea the second side burred quickly. The first side, was stubborn. Dunno what that was about. I was spouting what little heresy, i had on these, from watching neuman2000? Think that’s his handle. The guy who developed the washboard system. He has shown the 800 in a few video’s, and discussed them. Yes, i lapped both. No crust, but they weren’t conditioned either. I’m sure doing it properly, or even with slurry, (that was suggested by another, as well) would yield faster results.

@@Jef I remember hearing somewhere the 1200 is the most highly thought of Juuma. And honestly I'm not really one of those guys that think slurry will increase speed very much but who am I 😅 Still interested in them because like you, I'm a sucker for hard stones (depending on the knife and steel I've learned, I'll often choose a softer Suehiro lineup for more abrasion resistant steels or steels that have been taken to a high hardness). Just ordered a King Neo 800 that one of the commentors in this video somehow convinced me to buy with one comment 🙄 A hard king ( I'm hoping it feels like a King Deluxe 300 - awesome stone) using green SiC sounds very appealing to me for stubborn steels. King stones are underrated in my opinion. I like the King 300 more than almost all of the other coarse stones I own, it's excellent. Very hard, doesn't load up, cuts fairly aggressively (although I think I would rate the finish/scratch pattern it leaves closer to 500-600, still cuts with the speed of a 300) is essentially splash and go and seems to have no problem with high end steels. Great one for you to try if you haven't

Yes king are over looked often. The deluxe 1200 used to be one of my favs. Then i discovered the Imanishi 1k, and forgot all about it. Still, it is a solid choice. Very predictable cutting speed. Not too slow; not too fast. The king 300 green sic I’ve heard varying opinions on. One from a guy i trust said it was very friable, and released grit too quickly. Never tried it myself but sounded like something i would avoid. Which is why i never grabbed one. I believe I’ve seen virtuvice using it in some of his old videos too. If it was the same stone, I’d draw that same conclusion. Too friable. Perhaps the formulation has changed or the stones i am thinking of were a different grit 🤷‍♂️

@Jef That sounds like a different stone to me. The current King Deluxe 300 that I have is a light blue color, I'm not sure if it's aluminum oxide or SiC, but it cuts all the steels I deal with regularly just fine. And it's the opposite of your typical friable stone. It releases VERY little abrasive, just enough to not load up or glaze over. And it's very hard, like way harder than the King 1000 or 1200 ( have both of them also). FAR less friable than the low grit Shapton Pro stones like the 320. Less friable than the 1k Shapton Pro even IMO, possibly equally so. I wouldn't recommend you a soft, friable stone 😉 I honestly think that stone would be right in your wheelhouse

Plan on grabbing the neo stone. May as well grab the deluxe 300 while i am at it 🤓

I’ve been told about that neo stone by many folks. I need to just suck it up and buy one 😁 Is there any more in the neo series or is it a one off?

Thanks man 🙄. For some reason your description made me promptly hop on Amazon and buy one. And one of the restaurant sized Deluxe 1000s 😆

​@Jef ​ So I got my King Neo 800. I have to agree it's a wonderful stone. However, I would not call it a hard stone 🤷‍♂️ The OP of this thread compared it to Choseras in hardness, and while I've only owned the 1k Chosera due to their known cracking issues, I would not put the King in the same hardness class. To me it's medium hardness at best and my stone is fairly friable and absolutely does release grit and slurry from the stone, and I'm not a heavy handed sharpener. IMO opinion it's true friability and not just entire pieces of abrasive letting loose, like a Shapton Pro 320 etc. I'm not saying this as a negative, I just don't agree with a few of his claims. I have only hit it with a diamond plate real quick to verify it was flat and take the very top layer of the stone off, and then conditioned the surface with a nagura. So it's possible the stone hasn't shown its true colors yet. All that being said many of his other opinions I agree with. Cuts just about anything excellently. Has a nice, creamy feel to it while having some aggression simultaneously. Leaves an excellent edge and finish for an 800 as well on the steels I've tested it on, which was S30V (Spyderco's), CPM-M4 and D2. Would make an excellent 1 and done type stone for stainless folders in particular IMO, but also fit nicely into a progression. I'm very impressed with it, it's just not hard in the way I think you prefer. Not so soft you're gonna be snowplowing it but easily gouged by the tip if you're not careful. It does have an excellent feel to it and very responsive tactile and audible feedback. It's very nice in that way. Lets you know exactly what you're doing with the bevel. Definitely a keeper and I see myself using it often for steels often found in high quality folders and some stainless Japanese knives that are regularly taken to 62-64 Rockwell. Has the speed to bring back a dull edge quickly but also leaves an edge that doesn't leave much to be desired. If they made an entire line of them I would buy them but so far the 800 is all I've come across

Wow, thanks for that write up. Exactly the kinda info that makes for a fantastic review. The hardness you describe sounds like many coarse grits available. Many have that friability you describe, which helps them cut so fast. The constant release of fresh sharp abrasive. I am just going to have to break down and purchase one myself, it seems. Everyone that has used one, has raved about it. Can’t be bad right?

@@Jef i made other comments about it but they never showed up. youtube is weird. you should 100% try it. I know you will like it. imo, and I probably have as many as you do, it's very similar in hardness and friability to the 2k and 3k chosera with a similar wear rate and feel but obviously courser. It's not a course stone but it cuts quite quickly. easily faster than 500 glass, either 1k or 800 chosera.