The kit plans come with the parts and plans to do the full enclosure. A few bolts hold the lexan on the left side. It wraps up to the 12:00 position where there’s another bolt at the nose cone and at the rear canopy bow. The right side is held in place at the front with a pin and strike plate and with a latch at the rear. There are 1/2”x1/2” aluminum angle stiffeners on the left and right edges. They help hold the lexan close to the fuselage sides. The lexan overlaps the fuselage sides by more than an inch. This keeps air leakage low, but not zero. I designed and built the trailer. It raises and lowers. When low, it rests on 3 full swivel castors that let it move laterally, rotate 180, etc. This allows it to be backed into a garage, lowered, and pushed laterally in between two cars in a typical two car garage. I sketched some key dimensions in CAD, but do not have full drawings that give all the necessary details. The design relies on some very specific tube diameters and thicknesses in the raise/lower mechanism. I had easy access to them because I work for a company that makes them. They would be expensive to source for the average individual. It was a 5 month build. What most other people do is buy a conventional trailer and build custom long ramps for it. When the wings are folded, they only clear the ground by a few inches and you will high center on the trailer back edge if not careful.

Charles T I think the kit and engine ran me about $14,000, but that was a long time ago. Add paint, instruments, and it adds up. I built the trailer.

save the tires...