That's backfire?! It sounds like you dropped a marble on the kitchen floor 🤣

The wobbling at 24:53 is caused by the tyres in beam being very polygonal. It usually goes unnoticed, but can suddenly come into full effect when rolling at very low speeds

50 HP is honestly all a small car needs.

Hey, some tips for the next time: 1- Monocoque can be lighter if you're using carbon fiber 2- Unless you want something really specific, I'd say it's better to build the engine just picking the materials, then figure out the rest on tuning: Compression, cam profile, harmonic balancer, AFR, Timing, intake size, exhaust manifold size, carburetor size, exhaust size, in the case of a naturally aspirated engine. 3- If you wanna win in these scenarios (Of power being the limit, not cost) you can make the engine out of magnesium and AlSi for their lower weight 4- Engine weight is also key, picking light internals help a lot, billet steel crank, titanium conrods and lightweight forged steel pistons are the way to go (specially because if it's a small engine, you can drop the harmonic balancer's weight and even take it out, for a lighter, more efficient and more responsive engine) 5- Unless you're using a turbo (or a supercharger on an update that is on the way) the quality slider in the aspiration section does nothing 6- Quality sliders, unless you're battling against cost, ram those up to the roof, same as the quality multipliers (the things on the bottom of the quality multipliers that says +5) that'll allow you to use more modern/better materials than what's available at the time (Have in mind that rising the quality slider for safety will increase weight) 7- If you're building a miniature car, my recommendation is to not go below 400Kg, otherwise BeamNG drive can get mad and cause all sorts of issues 8- A turbo can be fun, but it can give you a headache when setting it up (This is prior to the supercharger update, this won't apply to superchargers) The bigger the turbo, the higher the RPM required to get the full boost, the higher the pressure, the bigger the turbo. Now if you get a spiky mess on the graph, turn down the pressure and work your way up (you don't really need that much boost anyways). PD: The spiky mess can be due to other things, but mainly due to either too high compression for the fuel used or a really restrictive exhaust. Be sure to always check the airflow parameters to see if there are any bottlenecks. I guess that's it for now, keep on with the great work!

a Top Gear successor i didn't know i needed in my life. You mean we get insane "let's see what the other lad brought" PLUS them actually building a completely custom car AND a fuckton of crashes but they're virtual so there's noone that suddenly starts liking celery from all the brain damage? Sign me the hell up!

Butch's car looks like a Pontiac Fiero

I'm blown away by the people/group who made this game. Specifically the programmers and how they even added in tips/suggestions and constructive criticism for your designs

I decided to try and make a 50 hp engine for fun, I ended up making what was basically a diesel 2L inline 3 145 lb*ft torque @1400 RPM 50 hp @ 2100 RPM It also had a thermal efficiency of 30%

If you're building a car with only 50 horsepower, then you want it to be light. Very light. Making the engine more efficient would also be a good idea.

Feels like a reverse sleeper

Don’t know if this helps your car knowledge or not but the “little Ferrari” is actually modeled after the 1984 Pontiac Fiero which had a 2.8L v6 and a the motor was mounted in the rear. Hope you learned something 🍻

If I had to make any assumptions, the engine was saying it had much more compression than the real VW engine because the fuel you were using had such a higher octane than what the engineers at VW designed for. In case you were previously unaware octane correlates to how much compression you can have before you experience knocking.

next time build a car with 100 HP engine and the car's weigh must be exactly 1000 Kg

I really enjoy that you're so willing to learn, total respect. The helpful info is below the next paragraph. To the haters, please research before coming at me or anyone else. This is not the golden rule, but in most cases: Longer stroke and smaller bore will give you a lower redline, it will also lower H.P. but for the most part, it will give you higher torque due to the fuel having more time to fully burn, that's just one reason. Also, backfiring comes from un-burned fuel, Octane is there to prevent premature ignition due to heat in the combustion chamber, i.e... knock or preignition. Thanks for reading, and please keep doing what you're doing.

Accidentally made a Dodge Magnum body. Not that that is any less of a meme.

I cannot express how good these 50 minutes are for me to watch and live the experience. I am a doctor who happens to be a car enthusiast. But for reasons I won't mention now, I don't have the ability to experiment with cars, not even in simulation. I like that you cut away every moment that isn't needed because that saves a lot of our times. Light editing, but just as much as needed (reminds me with the Swedish "lagom" culture). Your friend is friendly and humble and I would also like to have a friend like him.

Bro made an engine that claps its own cheeks when running

"Just focus on Eminem and go round the outside" lmfao earned a sub

Seeing these struggle with the bus pull makes me think you should make trucks next. Something with some tow capacity.

27:14 that had me rolling of laughter 😂😂😂🤣🤣

Damn, I didn't know that there was a game where you could build a full car in such detail. And being able to export and actually use it in BeamNG is awe inspiring!

Good video and GREAT build by butch. Though I wonder how much better his would be with a 7-speed DCT, geared LSD RWD, slightly more ground clearance, and 50% more power.

Some test suggestions: Crash safety test. Stopping distance test. Jump distance. Road race with shorter straights and more corners.

24:58 Missed Opportunity to name it Mustardi

you dont need a lot of gears because the power curve is relatively wide. a lot of gears wont do anything, they wont create any more power. lots of gears are useful for peaky engines. if you are limited on power, what you want is a flat power curve that stays right below the power limit.

Horsepower is just a function of torque and RPM. If you make more torque, you're also making more horsepower. What you'd really be wanting to tune in should be achieving 50 horsepower across the entire rev range

Butch's car was like an AWD Lancia Stratos in the dirt lol

Next video idea, make the most powerful engine possible that is only 1liter displacement. I'm imagining one of you making a 3 cylinder and the other making a W16 lol!

I don't have any insights to add, but I will say I appreciate you Kosmo!

I'm glad to see you used the same strategy that I did when I built my IRL car in automation/beamng, dig through spec sheets and hope it came out the same.

The 98 octane fuel gave me anxiety

Such a great concept for a video. Glad I found it, long time kosmo-casual here.

The "size" values on carburetor, intake, and headers is not in mm, it's an arbitrary value with 0 being minimum and 100 being maximum allowed for the bore of the engine. Best to tune your sizes based on the flow graph which can be found on the upper right of the engines tabs.

Glad to see you back Kosmo.

That track moment when you wanted to take Butch with just like Shingo did in InitialD, with the same outcome, lol :D

10:20 increasing the piston diameter increase the torque throughout the rev range, but instead you undid it and just increased torque at high RPM which is completely against the entire point of a low hp, high torque engine...

It literally said you are running too high an octane. You chose 91 octane unleaded on an engine that was built to run on lower octane LEADED petrol. 91 unleaded weren't even considered yet. After leaded petrol came Freon added fuel before unleaded became widely available in the mid 90's. Higher octane is only required for powerful engines to prevent pre-detonation (knocking). You completely changed the engine instead of that one option. "Quality" setting is for fine tuning for more or less power. You should let me send you some files, I have some weird builds, but alot go over 400 km/h

When it comes to the reliability points I was told by someone as "take it as each point is 1% if you have 30 reliability it's really unreliable, if it's 80+ it's good, the higher the number the better" in your case a 113 reliability is really good!

you should do a kei car challenge where you abide by all the real life kei car rules

This was a joy to watch XD And I love that he basically made the equivalent of a Toyota MR2 or a little Lotus hahaha

It'd be fun to do a kei car challenge, following the kei car restrictions.

You should do one of these types of challenges but with the highest cylinder # and lowest cc displacement possible

For my fellow Americans here, 156 KM/h is roughly 97 MPH

A 500hp NA engine with the smallest displacement would be a fun challenge

Judging by the offload capability, it isn't a mini Testarosa, it is a Mini Lancia 037. so like a Smolcia 018.5 or something.

what a fun and comfy video butch did a super awesome go cart😂😂 but yours looks pretty modern and cool😁

15:45 In my knowledge, you can only switch from AWD to RWD, when you're standing still... Im not sure tho, but I only encountered cars enable to switch back to RWD when stationary, and you're on the brakes.

I've had a Fiat Tipo and a VW Polo IRL which were both about 50hp and both had aftermarket LPG systems making them even slower. But it was still fun to push them hard. It was difficult to sustain 120km/h on the highway and neither of them could get much over 130km/h except downhill, but for city driving it was always perfectly fine. :)

I really like your take on learning and the way you take failure with a sincere "I'm so happy for you"

50hp is perfect for a Ibishu pigeon👌

that pontiac fiero was really nice, also remember to adjust fuel mixture and timing (especially if you are using turbo).

I can't wait for you to post that file in the discord, going to work on that as well, lol

50HP Shooting Brake. Nice. I like the 2 seater Shooting Brakes but the 4 seater Shooting Brakes like that are still neato. Sports cars with Wagon butts are cool.

You forgot to do the compression test with the carbon fiber body

@8:21 yeah those graphs are like deep deep tuning stuff basically it lets you optimize flow to be in the sweet spot for your particular build, to learn how to use a flow bench (which those graphs represent) there is only like 2 places you can really learn how the work one is the flow bench manufacturer the other is a dedicated trade school but i digress, To sum it up the biggest race cams are not always the best for an engine and can in fact loose you power when air is traveling through a tight space it increases in speed adding velocity. However too small and you choke the engine too big and the the air moves slowly causing low rpm performance to suffer as a result, most manufacturers from the factory use lower profile cams to increase low end torque which is more necessary for street driving where you spend more time in lower rpm.

These same challenges on the endurance courses Failrace runs, would make for some highly entertaining memes! 🤣😅

Using a 1.2 L inline 3, i made 105 Nm but 3500 rpm limit... Sounds like a truck but i did 190 kph top speed.

More automation/Beamng plzzzzzzzz😁

You made a Mustang "shooting brake" which distrubingly looks awesome.

I used that body to make a Volvo style AWD offroady sports car. Still one of my favorite Automation creations.

21:00 it's a FIAT 😂😂😂

Butch got that lawnmower car🔥🔥🔥

Butch built a Pontiac Fiero. Power seems about right too :D

Pretty nice video! I had a lot of fun.😂

I won’t do a CVT. I want the most gears. CVTs basically have an infinite number of gears

Awesome video! Just in case you hadn't done already, turning off Oversteer and Understeer correction in the BeamNG settings makes the cars drive so much more realistically. It's like a whole new game. Also just as a suggestion, maybe you could try an evolution challenge? Either upgrading the engine or body or something. Maybe making a track version and an offroad version of your cars or something like that. Loving the series.

Honestly the backfiring sounded like bubble wrap.

We need more of these vidoes

I just built myself a 50 hp car now i can see what you guys did 😁 well... mine is exedently a tiny Civetta Bolide and has a giant floating thing??

Bro I just see your channel, your videos are so fun😂❤

I did not expect Butch's car to win the off-roading.

Comes like a mustang, goes like a ferrari, rides like a mini cooper.

Well done both of you!

There are so many things that you can do to help you build horsepower easily. The charts specially are very useful like for example the flow chart. It tells you what parts are limiting the air flow through the engine. It will show you if the carburetor, intake or exhauts manifold, exhauts, valves(camshaft) and extra stuff like compressor, turbine, or intercooler if u run turbo. The numbers that are shown when u size the carburetors or manifolds hare not the mm size, its just a size multiplier. For now thats some things that i saw that u might need to know for now

I was hoping to see a particular thing with this one, but not seeing it, i have an idea for another video: Low-RPM Challenge! Build an engine that redlines at like 2k rpm (and torqued out so much it'll explode over 2k rpm or something) and then put it in a car and do some challenges like this video.... i wish i could afford these two games so i could fiddle around with stuff myself, but i have a bunch of idea's i'd like to see done. this one is just the one that came to mind when i read "only 50 horsepower"

I think Butch's car looks more like a Triumph TR7 or a Bertone X1/9.

My first car was a 1960 VW Beetle and it was a 1200cc that made a blistering 40hp and it is still one of the best cars ive owned. i miss it dearly but apparently dumping the clutch in gravel doesnt agree with it lmao. Sheered the woodruff key on the spindle but my young dumbass thought i blew the tranny and i sold it to my uncle. Great video! Currently basking in the nostalgia lol thank you!

Just discovered this account after watching AR12 Nick doing a drag racing video in this game, but man the detail you put into making the cars is so nice, i have never even seen those menus lol

Do a similar challenge where you have to build a vehicle compete and then swap engines with the other persons car. Their motor in yours and yours in theirs, then retest and see who built the better drivetrain for the vehicles

32:06 High gradients are less of a traction/power issue and more of a torque one. You're essentially fighting against gravity at high grades.

you guys should try swapping engines between your cars next time!

You can do a tug of war, but need a keyboard to attach a chain on each end to both vehicles. Also congrats on figuring out the truth about cars! They are all the same with minor differences that are perceived huge because some car might need that 0.1 reduction in tire pressure to make a climb that another car makes just fine.

Since I'm a bit of a fanatic about super cars, your challenge is to create a super car with at least 250 km/m without overheating and with perfect ACC, but without too much weight

One challange I just thought of, that would be interesting to see is that you only have like 10, 50 or 100l of fuel available. Don't know if that's possible with BeamNG but it would be cool. Anyway nice video I enjoyed watching.

You seemed to get more traction on the dry ground. This is a shocking revelation in motorsport.

To make bigger torgue and less hp main rule: Cylinder diameter should be LESS than cylinder length. It is main difference for example between sport bikes and heavy bikes. Between trucks and light cars. It allows to make longer connecting rods. Which leads to bigger momentum on shaft. And engine will work on lower RPM.

When you tune the engine, do it after selecting all the base components, and use the dyno graph to tune. Otherwise thats like tuning a car without a dyno. Very difficult

If i where to do this, i probably would've went with a turbo i3/i4, pushrods will probably be the best for low down torque and less weight. Build it to make CRAZY torque at the

Aloha, Friendo! Have a nice day! I just found you, and I'm glad I've found your channel. Maybe next time make a performance econobox?

Wow, beamNG game is wild! 😂❤

I want to see a build competition with only a weight limit, but make it crazy like 1000lbs. So like tiny go karts where the hp is only limited by engine size due to overall weight limit.

You could do a tug of war by both connecting to opposite ends of a lightweight block, similar to the bus pull

Make an American/Australian styled "Sprint Car" but give them F1 Style Engines and make them symmetrical for road course racing. that would be awesome

good advice on the displacement, especially for low revving engines, make it an undersquare design so keep your stroke larger than your bore hence higher stroke brings your torque curve lower in the rpm range. that's why for example toyota 7age, honda k24/k20 or b20 frankensteins of builds are made in certain n/a engines. in forced induction engines it isn't that big of a deal because it doesn't really require any special engineering, just adding more boost and fuel

1. I would have done a small turbodiesel engine for torque and reliability. 2. Set your materials and parts before fine tuning things. It will allow for more more optimization. 3. AWD of any sort has more weight than rwd, and doesn't allow for certain suspension types in the front due to the engine/AWD systems taking up too much space. Plus less reliability.

Bro just straight up built a Fiero, all the way down to the oil crisis reference. I absolutely love it.

Automation got updated a lot compared to the last time I played it

Such a great video, I stayed the whole time

I'm glad someone else uses shiggles XD

your friend actually built a super interesting little car