Thanks for the comment. I ended up finding that the automatic tensioner had a subtle defect. It would work sorta, but because it had micro divots in the check bearings, it would vibrate itself into a looser state. When you manually test the tensioner it will appear to work. This is a common fault of these tensioners, and a lot of people just get the APE model. At the time, I was low on cash and couldn't find any in stock either. So I had my brother help me machine up a custom manual tensioner, which permanently solved the issue, and I don't have to worry about it.

I've managed to keep my license clean with this one. I love that it is a bike that is fun going the speed limit, and fun going over dirt trails, and fun going fast. It's kinda happy at every speed. Not a lot of bikes that are newer that feel that way to me. Most either wanna chug or scream, but in between is kinda awkward.

@@GunFunZS hablas español amigo?

I am not sure what you mean by chain buckles. I ended up making a manual chain tensioner and that solved the problem.

Already did. Machined it with a bit of help from my brother. I should have recorded the process. It looks pretty slick, and gives a lot more long term confidence. I am not a fan of converting an automatic tensioner to manual. Too many people find that they work loose and slip. Just happened to a friend of mine. Now he's borrowing my manual and doing valve shims while he is at it.

If I had a new one, I would. Also the new one would just go in there. I'm disinclined to spend cash I don't have on new parts if they are about the same. It looks like mostly the factory tensioner failed as they are known for. Most people downgrade them to a trustworthy manual tensioner. I think that is my next step.

Sounds like a good plan to me.

We ended up machining a custom manual tensioner. The automatic ones can behave normally, but have little imperceptible notches in them that allow them to vibrate ratchet to a sort of loose position. Better to just check the tension every oil change and be sure of things.

That is my brother's. I don't know about it's current tune but that engine has had a lot of work done to it. In the previous shell, it was dynoed at over 460, but it was nicer to drive tuned to something like 380. It's in an AWD chassy right now, but my cousin had built several which were FWD with agressive tunes and racing clutch. Then transmissions tended to twist off of the motor, so it takes a lot of reinforcement to keep them from eating themselves.

GunFun ZS I've got a mildy built one myself, awd 460hp to the wheels. I dont really know much about the fwd high hp problems tho never built a fwd dsm

tHEY were having the same issues on AWD machines too, but at the time, it was really cheap to get an AWD body that had been towed by the cops, and insert the drive train from FWD wrecks. That got them a slightly more potent engine to start with and a very cheap car to build up.

Elliott Miller it was excessive. the automatic tensioner had travel left, but was not fully extending on its own. I ended up making a manual tensioner.

GunFun ZS Hey I had a question about that. Did you make your own or buy one? I need one reall bad for a 1981 kz750h2 ltd. I love the thing but that chain rattle is insane xD

For some reason, I didn't get an alert for your comment. I made one. You can buy one made by APE.

And replace that in a hurry. These bikes are hard to kill, but a loose cam chain is an effective way to do it.

@@GunFunZS no worries, and I am probably going to order one. I currently have the cover off doing the shims. I'm waiting on those to get in. But it definitely seems worthwhile to buy a manual tensioner. Thank for the reply. A lot of the time I never get responses when I comment on videos. 👍

Un poco, pero malmente.