Thanks for the rec

Hi, sorry for a question on such an old comment but did you lose any fuel efficiency doing this?

I'm afraid I don't have the number written down anywhere, since they were merely stand-ins for the filming of the video. Sorry!

Brian (aka me) is perfectly okay with this! 👌👌

I just checked today and the part number as listed here is still the current version. It may also come up under the number TB-9. Thanks for watching!

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@@roberthigbee383 His drove off and never came back..

Not trying to be rude but wtf did u just say is real?

I will have to check with Brian regarding that, but as we're currently in the winter season there will be too many other variables currently affecting MPG (winter wheels and tires, traffic, fuel blends, etc) to isolate any changes from just the throttle body.

No, there wasn't a noticeable difference in MPG before and after. Well, if I kept my foot off the gas, anyways. But with it sounding better, and revving much smoother, it made it hard to drive economically...🤣🤣

Nope, nothing at all.

This was purchased over the counter from our local dealership. And no, no calibration!

Did you ever figure out the answer? Thanks

Truthfully, no. You don't NEED a tune, however a tune will take advantage of the increased airflow that the larger throttlebody allows.

@@Blue84Stang thanks dog, I actually got a new car since this haha

I'm afraid I wouldn't know the answer to that one. Sorry!

This throttle body does work with the K&N CAI without any modifications! I just did the install a few days ago and I love it.

I have the same Intake on my 13. Did your intake throw any engine codes? Or make the engine knock? The intake install on my car made it run like shit. I made sure everything was tight/no vacuum leaks

No. My car is running perfectly fine. I've had the intake on for about 4 or 5 months now. That is really weird the intake caused your car to run rough.

WannabeST Have you seen any change in average MPG? Is it a noticeable difference in throttle response?

Nope, no VIN.

god Its difficult to say, truthfully. My car is the one used, and while I didn't notice an increase in performance per sé, I did notice an improvement in throttle response, which seems to be the general consensus. With the stock throttlebody, when Id accelerate, it would accelerate decently enough for a commuter car. With the new throttlebody, it gains RPM's noticeably faster. It's not a massive improvement, but you can certainly tell that it reduced or removed a restriction on the intake.

The part numbers are all shown in the video - you can give them to your local dealer and they'll get you the right parts. :)

If you have an engine it'll bolt to, yes.

Josh Gaule did you ever find out?

Duramax-fan man looks plug and play as well. But not sure how the computer will take it.

Absolutely. You would just need to figure out the tubing from the TB to the Intake Box due to the fact that the opening will be a tad bid wider

If it has the 2.0 NA engine it definitely will.

Got it thank you 🙏just ordered it..how long did yours take to come in?

That I am unsure of offhand as I do not have much experience with the Mk2 Foci.

@@officialTHREETWENTYdotcom ah I see. Thanks

Any dealership will be able to get these since they're all OEM parts. We got ours through Advantage Ford here in Calgary.

It's the same thing, as long as it's 2.3 liter. I used the ecoboost

This will fit any Mk3 with the 2.0 engine. And no, we never dyno'd it.

im just now figuring out how much air restriction the engineers designed into this thing from the factory. i ripped the bumper off an se and found an intake choke in the engine subframe. you have to cut it out with a dremmel and use a router bit to clean it up and make it smooth. i mean at it's most narrow point, the se intake is only about 2-2.5 square inches. that is not a lot of air at all, i routed a second pipe from the bottom of the airbox to the dumb hole on the right side of the bumper cover and got actual manifold pressure. that thing rips now after i fixed the evap canister valve. just gotta figure out the catalytic

I'm sorry, I don't understand the question.

@@officialTHREETWENTYdotcom I think he's asking for a part number for the throttle body

Honestly, if you stay off the gas pedal, you won't notice any difference in fuel economy. HOWEVER, the fact that the car will rev smoother and drop RPM's faster on deceleration makes it hard not to play around when accelerating, so you will notice a drop that way.

I haven't noticed a massive difference, but I installed the throttle body when the car was parked for a couple of weeks (when it was undergoing other work), so I couldn't drive it back-to-back. Other owners have noted minor differences on stock turbo but I installed it in anticipation of a larger turbo down the road.

Tuning’ software

Absolutely. The larger throttlebody allows more air to flow into the engine, so a tune will add a bit of fuel to compensate for that, which you'll notice.

I wouldn't be able to say for certain since I don't know of anyone trying this on a Fusion. It could be something to experiment with though!

It's literally answered in the first 10 seconds. Haha

Thats actually in the plan for the next bit, to get my car on a dyno, so that we can figure out what sort of power it is making now. With all mods that its got so far, vDyno says it should be making around 185-ish to the wheels, and I want a real dyno so I can say for certain.

That would be great. Modern engines can make surprising amounts of power (3.5L EcoBoost), but the engineering on them is pretty tricky to be able to do so. Things that logically should increase power don't always do so. As I mentioned, air flow can be tricky; i.e. increased volume vs. decreased velocity, and how this impacts cylinder filling with the intake manifold runner design and valve arrangement.

@@1001Hobbies and its not just airflow that im worried about, its also spark, timing, fuel, and a ton of other things. Im also debating getting cams, but at the moment, there isnt software available (inexpensively) which can adjust the variable cam timing, to account for a more aggressive cam setup.

What mods have you done?​@@Blue84Stang

@@cstrombone proper cold air, header, exhaust, throttlebody, and a few other tweaks...

Pricing may vary but current retail is around $100 CAD plus tax.

It is cheap! $100? I want one!

Just got the throttle body, bolts and gasket for 72$ with shipping

@Social Outcast It's the same engine as the titanium. I have it on my 2016 SE.

You'd have to look into that or try it yourself I'm afraid, as none of us have tried it on a 1.6L; only the 2.0s.

Only temporarily; as noted the OEM hardware was on order and these were promptly swapped out once it arrived following the filming of the video.

Any Focus with the 2.0 NA or 2.0 EB engine can receive this throttle body.

Mr. S That's the 3.7L throttle body that doesn't work. This 2.3L one works. I installed it last night and can feel the RPMs climb faster.

You can do a reset on the whole computer after install. It will relearn everything with the new throttle body.

No computer freakouts or any other weird behaviour. Some have noted mild "surging", but I never noticed that. It really was as easy as it seemed in the video, and while it may not make much from a "horsepower" sense, having the engine acceleration smooth out makes it easier to drive.

You aren't wrong. The completely open factory airbox indeed does suck in hot air, but sadly, so do most of the aftermarket intakes. For example, the Roush, FSWerks, and k&n are all short-ram intakes which are all functionally the same as mine, save for a piece of thin-gauge metal that the filter mounts to. If I had ever gotten particularly picky about temperatures, a $10 roll of Aluminium self-vulcanising tape would have fixed the issue. Also, this intake was just recently switched for the AEM cold-air intake, which is a true cold air intake.

Putting the lid back on the box would have fixed it too, and the engine would have sucked air through the fresh air (cold air) ducts that come in from the grill. ANY (including AEM) intakes that have the filter open in the engine compartment is going backwards. They like to market the rubber seal at the top of the barrier as "sealing" to the hood, but it is not air tight, or even close. Unless it is a totally enclosed system with a duct that brings in fresh, outside air, it is not a "cold air intake." I know they sell a ton of things with that title. it's bothered me ever since they came out, taking advantage of people who really don't know about engines and cars. You could buy a muscle car in the 1960's that had a true "cold air" system. It was called "fresh air" then. Air would be ducted to the air cleaner on the carburetor from outside the engine compartment either through a hood scoop, or scoops, or through the radiator support, behind the grill (which was pretty big back then.) Today I see a "cold air" kit on a car and I ask the owner where the cold air comes from. Sometimes they point to an incidental hole in the inner fender about the size of your fist (no air actually comin through, just there to lighten the weight), and it is obstructed by hoses, wiring harnesses, and other things. Just goes to show how little they know about their car. These people are being taken advantage of by every manufacturer of these kits. Did the owner of this car get it dyno'd before and after the throttle body swap? It would be nice to get some measured information.

@@1001Hobbies Well, as its MY car, no, it wasn't dyno'ed before and after. Also, the AEM does actually qualify as a true cold air, as it relocates the filter end of the intake to directly in front of the radiator, directly behind the holes in the bumper that direct air into the radiator, which is what my car has now. And as you pointed out, every SRI does the same thing, which is suck in hot air. The difference is that I didn't pay $250+ for it. I ran it for almost four years like that, and never once had an issue with it being open, aside from the filter needing more frequent cleaning.