Same goes for Fractals,lol

The perfect tool are industrial electrician manual knockout dies. For the individual who needs the best in every tool, Milwaukee makes an battery operated knockout tool too!

How did you wire a fan????

@@ralfkessler can't remember now, but i will take a look

I'm pretty happy with how my conversion turned out. The rest of the videos will be up soon. Now I want a VFD on every tool in the shop. :)

A much better solution would be a power supply mounted on the DIN rail, right next to the contractor (there are plenty of small ones available) or a DIN mounted socket to plug the supply into instead

@@tomboxyz5564 wouldn’t a 120v fan just be the easiest route?

Or just use a120v fan?

metal cutting jigsaw blades work very good. I have even cut stainless steel with them.

We always used a 7/16" drill for the 3/8" stud. Gives you just enough for bent slug easy removal. Had know it all prima donna maechanics only use a 3/8" drill bit then break their balls and screw up threads on stud banging off slug. I also use a USA carbide 7/8" hole saw for cord connectors. Never install fan exhaust on top of any enclosure unless you install a deflection oversized plate several inches above. Saw water oil etc get into a top exhaust burning up devices. You should use the proper size ampere fuses on all drive inputs. Had a stupid hard head cheif electrician use time delay fuses instead of the quick blow fuses called for. After burning out thousands of dollars in drkve boards he started using the proper fuses.

@@garbo8962 ??

He is a machinist .

I was also wondering this!

Yes, please. Anyone?

It is generally recommended to prevent the unexpected restore of power to a moving system after a power failure, If it wasn't there, and the power went off, the VFD would immediately turn on when power was restored, which is generally not safe for the VFD and maybe for users of equipment run by it.

The display is readable through the fan grill and filter.

@@Clough42 Thanks for the reply, I noticed that later in the video series after I had posted this. Mea Culpa John

I'm not an expert, so you might want to trust the manual over me. :) The manual says that the fuses are to protect the "peripheral equipment" (a.k.a. the motor) in a short-circuit event. I think the breaker will protect the building wiring, and I expect that the VFD will be toast no matter what, so I didn't bother. There are discussions in various forums about whether the fuses are needed. The TL;DR is that fuses were used for UL testing for various regulatory reasons, so they're specified in the manual. All of that said, I don't think you can go wrong with more protection. I might go back and add fuses to my installation.

Yes, I am. This one: amzn.to/2YpT1nr

I showed the contactor wiring in the VFD Controls video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gMV5os13xtu3d6c.html

He kept the factory contractor from the G0602 motor electrical cabinet (around back) view previous videos

@@makealready Thanks Jacob. I saw that when I went back and looked at the videos again.

Thank you.

Why use an adaptor? Just buy a 120v fan. You just want a 120v coil 3phase contactor

Hi Paul, a quick google search yielded me this. www.artcotools.com/roto-drive.html Maybe that can get you started?

I just reused the stock contactor that was in the lathe from the factory.

Split phase? Just 240 single phase? If so yes.

I used the contactor that came in the lathe from the factory. The contractor is recommended in the VFD manual because it provides a way to disconnect power from the VFD when the tool is not in use.

Yes. I think they both might have had filters on them?

Same....I also noticed you intended to use the Ra line to power the fan in video #1 - that would turn the fans on with the vfd...not sure why the change in approach to fan power??? I’m trying to power an old South Bend lathe with mine and working through this issue now.

@@maalberico The 110v does send power to the 12v motors(+), the plug itself ramps down/converts to 12v. The VFD sends a signal via ground to turn the fan on. If your looking for answers directly from these videos, there will be holes...been there done that. Good luck, I'd be happy to share what I've learned from this mod...

So he can use the contactor to shut off the VFD while keeping main power to lathe on

I get the heavy power wiring from a local electrical supply (Grover's). Loose conductors are usually just taken from left-over scraps of the power cables. I get the crimp connectors from a local home store (Lowes, Home Depot). My favorite place right now for metric screws is a local Ace Hardware that has a huge selection. Otherwise, it's all available on eBay in small quantities or from McMaster-Carr if you want larger quantities to stock. Depending where you live, imperial screws of similar sizes might be easier to get at a home store.

The 12V power is used only for cooling fans, so it's off when the contactor is off.

I see. Guess I missed that. what's the coil voltage on your contactor? where is it tapped? @@Clough42

@@johns208 It's wired up to the AC input side of the contactor. The video showing the control wiring has a diagram.

Thank you! I reused the contactor that was originally in the lathe for the stock controls. It's a Siemens 3TB41 22E 110V.

An inverter duty motor has insulation designed to withstand the high voltage spikes generated by a VFD and is designed to run at lower speeds without overheating. I don't see how using a bigger VFD would help with that, but I'm not an expert by any means.

It just depends how hard you are going to work it and can you keep the motor cool. Low frequency/low rpm makes the motor heat up.

Yup. To prevent grit from coming in the exit.

No, there is no ground for that contactor the Din rail is grounded to the box. There needs to be a transorb wired in with the coil wires though.

Yes, that is all it’s for.

This is a 110v VFD.

@@Clough42 There ya go, i even watched the entire series and just assumed it was 220. My bad. Great series btw.

Just depends if you want to be able to turn the VFD off without turning the whole machine off. That is it’s only function

That's my EDC. I believe it's a Benchmade 812 ATS-34 Balisong.

Then you'd make negative pressure inside the box, so dust and moisture would constantly infiltrate (unless you devised a method to seal all around the door and cable glands). James's way keeps the inside of the box pressurized and clean.

For a belt grinder, many people prefer to use a fully-sealed VFD like the KBAC-27D. It's also super simple, with a switch and a speed control knob.

@@Clough42 The price of fully-sealed VFDs is what brought me here, Clough. Do you think that an IP20 rated VFD will actually overheat in an enclosed box? Quite honestly, I really don't see us using the belt grinder for more than a few minutes at a time.

@@timberwrightsvs480 I don't have any experience with that, so I don't know.

I usually use a 12V or 24V fan running off a separate power supply.

@@Clough42the way you comment i will need a separate 110 vac outlet to power the dc verter

Funny, I am looking for the exact same thing myself. If I find info I will post it.

Dave Nichols I found one at work my electrician showed me, now I’m trying to find one online .

It's what I had, and at the time I made this video, I hadn't yet developed my fetish for DIN-rail mounted devices.

@@Clough42 glad I’m not the only one! 😂

I reused the contactor that was in the lathe.

It’s just a 3 phase contactor with 120v coil.

Why not? Definitely not on the output side but a contactor on the input can be used for many different functions.

Just use a 120v fan