This VFD series is great, perfect pace, and depth. Thanks! 👍👍👍

I ECHO as loud as I can all the positive comments prior to this post. EXCELLENT James!!!!! Thank you!!!!

Happy to see you looking healthier man, enjoying your content

When I watch your vids I feel like I am watching an electrician master class! Thanks for the very informative video!

nice! very impressive vlog and video editing! much respect for your knowledge, skills, abilities, craftsmanship and attention to details! 👍👍

I guess you was glad you fixed the original DIN rail using tapped holes rather than nuts behind the back of the box.

Great video. Excellent work. Thank you for sharing.

Excellent video!

thank you for explaining the safety factor on the fuse holder. ocd is a fine thing in electricity

please give us a smile now and then...

Very good explanation

thanks for this great presentation..

I really like your video thank you for sharing.. I have extensive experience with VFD Drives in industrial environments and would like to comment on why vfd(s) require both a breaker and fuse.. Both fuses and breakers come in various types but for this example let's just focus on two types thermal protection and short circuit protection. the DIN rail and household breakers like used here are thermally tripped. These breakers will protect against short circuit but the reaction time is very slow compared to the short circuit protection needed to properly protect the VFD. So in this case the breaker and fuse are suited for two different types of fault and complement each other... A 25A breaker in this case will not short circuit trip until the current load is 150%-225% of the rated current depending on the trip curve of the breaker. The fuse in this application is designed to quickly interrupt the circuit extremely fast when the current exceeds the rating. This will protect the VFD SCR DC Buss (Not IGBT(s) they are on the output side of the VFD) and additionally protect the circuit breaker from damaged in the event of a VFD failure. I have seen many breakers not used in tandem with uses fail because breaker contacts welded shut before the thermal mechanism tried to interrupt the circuit that resulted in fires and explosions. Motor controls should always use breaker and fuse! Always!!!!

A few years ago I has done also important changes to my similar lathe. The DC-motor and all the electronics is replace with 2HP tri-phase motor 230V with VFD. I didn’t use the contactor anymore because forward and reverse controls on the input is controlled by 2 little relays. Push-bottoms and micro-switches generates the events, and all the supplied safety switches remains functional. I am happy of your very nice video’s, good explanation and practical implementation. My video’s are more theoretically, because torque and speed goes not always together is the same direction.

Another great video. Note your link to the Fuse is actually to the Fuse Holder. Thanks for the video.

Now you can tell others to fix their setups ;)good job

A very good video. My two cents are that first you don’t use a GFCI with a VFD. The VFD will trip the GFCI. One exception is the KB brand of VFDs which can be ordered with GFCI feature that prevent nuisance trips. The other tip is that if you use fast acting fuses you don’t need a breaker. It’s true that a breaker is convenient as that you can just reset it if it trips, but the fast acting fuses will blow well before the breaker reaches its limit anyway so you’ll be replacing fuses. And many companies, ABB being one, don’t recommend a breaker to protect the VFD. They prefer the right type of fuses. Thanks for the good quality video.

James Just a comment, no question this time As a source for short lengths of quality shielded cable, look at computer ethernet cables. Reasonably priced, available in assorted lengths, and I feel that twisted pair is more immune to noise than straight thru wires They also make rh45 panel connectors that are female on both sides, so with an extra ethernet you can cut this extra cable in half and use that for connections inside the cabinets. Plus it is extremely easy to connect/disconnect these cables as needed via the RJ45 jack As always, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the great work and great content John

looking good

Could you make a video on your video production setup? Your videos are very well mic’d and very well produced. In a previous video you mentioned 3 cameras but nothing specific. Keep up the good work.

Job done well., Great to watch.,

👍👍 Good work... Really appreciated... Thanks a lot....

LMAO, love your opening statement & expression on people pointing things out.

very nice video one of the best

James, you put together a very series of videos. Also, congrats on the “new look”. I installed my first TECO VFD a while ago, and the same as you, my provided print manual only went up to maybe Section 5 plus an appendix if I remember correctly. I found the omitted parts, including the “missing Section 11” that you referred to, in an online version of the manual. The reason for my comment is to possibly clarify the need for a fast action fuse. The manual states that the fast action fuse was needed to “protect peripheral equipment” and to then reference section 11. Section 11 led me to believe that peripheral devices are those attached to the VFD with cables attached to the VFD via the front comm port. It took a couple of tries to talk to the right person, but TECO tech department confirmed that “peripheral equipment” only means items connected to the VFD via cable to the front comm port. An external keypad or controller, for example. It does not include other things connected to the VFD, for example, the motor being driven by the VFD via the power terminal block, or items (potentiometers, switches, etc) connected by wire to the control circuit terminal block All that written? My installation is like yours! I had a selection of fast fuses and fuse holders in my stash, so while I was waiting for a word back from TECO tech, I installed the fuse anyway so I could get the thing up and running, lol.

love the series, though i would request this video be added to the Lathe Variable Speed Upgrade playlist

Im really enjoying your videos! You have do e very well on your weight! Keep it like so!

Good job sir

Awesome video! I just found your videos and they came at a good time. Lots of good information. Thank you!

Nice job and safe

An ac reactor should absolutely be used on the line side at the least. Especially if you are powering a spindle drive or axis drive. It not only does everything you mention but it also will protect the drive from inrush and motor spiking which will eventually lead to the breakdown of the drives internal components.

Thanks!

You are only allowed to wire that fuse from the top period!It's in the electrical code like and load.Line is always on the top load on the bottom .There is an exception to the rule in controls as part of an assembly to keep wires shorter

good job

in the machine we use at work there are normally motor protection trips between the vfd and the motors. something like a Siemens SIRIUS. also one reason for the breakers on the main input is you could have more than one system in the electrical cabinet. so each vfd is independently protected

James, well done, I agree with you on the marginal safety, the real test is if for some ungodly reason the motor is jammed and pulls too much current from the VFD the real test is the fuse you put in will blow before the electronics. I do not have much confidence with some of the VFDs made in china since they are poorly made. I would feel better if it was made in Japan, since they do a much better quality control and use better parts. But, I am working on a VFD repair no that was blown due to a brown out. What went bad on the device are the Capacitors on one I fixed and the IGBTs on the other. I would think the fast acting fuse being on the line side since that is the side that draws most of the current will cause the fuse to blow quick than a breaker.I would suggest one other thing I did not see the back of the VFD. But if it is bare metal or aluminum I would have place a large aluminum block with heat sink compound to help distribute the heat from the IGBTs.

Thank you

Another great video. You really ought to add this to the Playlist for the Lathe Variable Speed Upgrade (G0602 VFD) series.

Very interesting. A good reason to improve power factor may be to reduce the heating of the VFD caps. Does it matter or is it just academic? Who knows.

Thank you for taking the time to produce this series - long-time subscriber and this series has been the most helpful for me in terms of my projects! Quick question: I'm setting up an L510 to run a 3 HP European machine at 50 Hertz - consistent with its highly-engineered design. The L510 230V, 3 HP model requires a 50 amp fast-acting fuse so I'll be using Bussmann 14x51mm fuses (FWP-50A14F) in a Bussmann 2-pole DIN holder (CH142DU). Dumb question, but I want to confirm that I want a 50-amp fuse on EACH leg of the 230V incoming line; is this correct? (Hoping you suffer fools graciously 😄) The alternative, which I believe is INCORRECT, would be to install 25-amp fuse on each incoming leg to provide a total of 50 amps of protection. I just want to double check. Related on the incoming circuit breaker, the rating on page 3-14 of the L510 manual is 21 amps for my unit; akin to the 19 amps on your unit. 1.25 X 21 = 26.25 amp 2-pole circuit breaker suggests I would want to move up to a 30-amp breaker. However, I plan on staying with a 25-amp breaker (approximately 1.19X the 21 amps) because the breaker is rated as a D-curve (the slowest tripping speed). The breakers appear to come in B-curve (fastest), C-curve (medium trip speed for smaller motors), and D-curve (motor-starting trip speed). Also, the motor NEVER starts under a load so I'm thinking 1.19X max current for the breaker will be sufficient. The specific breaker I'm planning on using is an Eaton FAZ-D25-2-NA. Finally, I recognize that you're a fellow maker, and NOT a consulting engineer, so I acknowledge that I am SOLELY RESPONSIBLE for any design decisions and related [hopefully NOT, but possibly] catastrophic outcomes. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated! Thanks again!

Another excellent video! I like how you get into reasons for using and the recommendations and behind the 'need' for all the items. I am just curious to know how often you still go in and change the route/use of the v belts for the spindle drive? i.e. I thought the main reason for the VFD was to reduce/eliminate the need to fiddle with the v belts. ???? Also, have you done this on a milling machine? I just purchased a Grizzly mill/drill G0705 and there are lots of comments about what a hassle it is to have to change the v belts to change spindle speed. I googled to see if anyone had done this on a G0705 but couldn't find anything.

Whilst I agree the safety difference may be marginal, wiring in all the safety features, as set out in the manual and as tested by UL, is potemtially one less loophole the insurance companies can use to avoid a pay out if by some awful chance your shop burned down due to a fault in the VFD! Otherwise great series and many thanks.

It appears that the supply for the contactor control circuit comes directly from the incoming power after the circuit breaker. If so, your multi-wire control cable, and associated wiring inside the lathe, can see the full breaker current. Control circuitry must have a fuse to limit the current if using wiring rated less than the smallest overcurrent device ahead of the control circuit.

Hi folks. Panel breaker protects cable to control box. This cable should have same rating as the breaker. 25 Amp circuit breaker in the box protects 'in box' wiring, which should be able to handle 25 amps. The fast action 'semi-conductor' fuse may (as James said!) protect the expensive VFD. It's 'defence in depth' and a good idea when working with mains voltages. BobUK

Hi sir... it's a great video, very helpful to me. Can you suggest me what capacity of semiconductor fuse should be used for 3 phase 7.5kW VFD DRIVE UNIT of elevator lift

Product links could be updated, thanks for making these videos

Another reason to use a fuse instead of just a circuit breaker is that..If there is a large enough inrush of current the circuit breaker can actually be welded in the closed position. Where as a fuse can not. Thus a more safe circuit.

Nice.. Set my L510 up to show rpm insted of Hz ,useful to see what the rpm is set to before you start up the lathe..

I’m working on a vfd I’m having issues with no voltage output to the motor any tips?

James, thanks for this series--incredibly helpful!! Anyone wire this setup with a L510-201? I'm trying to figure out what contactor to use and how to wire the remote controls for a 220v input. I initially used a Fuji Electric SC-E1 contactor but cannot get the normally open start switch to activate the coil.

ahh excellent!!!! Are your plug's phase and notr side static?

Another great video, another great job. One thing I am pretty sure I'll be adding to my 3 phase powered rotary machines like pillar drill, lathe (when I build it!) and maybe a sanding disk/belt would be an rpm meter (lathe especially) to save having to (mis)calculate speeds from the dialled in Hz of the VFD. Another little Arduino project? After that ... A DRO? 🤔🤔🤣🤣

Just came across you excellent video series as I’m wiring control circuit for CNC VFD. I “know” how a contactor works but from video Neutral is to NO and Live is to NC circuit - how does this work ( current flow) when contacts are closed?

ANOTHER MASTER CLASS IN HOW A TUTIOURAL SHOULD BE PRESENTED CLEAR EASY TO UNDERSTAND ........if.....IF.... you decided to do another vid on VFD,s i would like to see one on ........ a single phase and 400v DC input ..........and wiring with 15 meter external controls 10v/24v for an indoor out door project ...were i would perhaps have a stationary machine with a hose that i could move around and control the VFD from near the end of the hose so you could start ....emergency stop... and reset and of corse VF potentiometer .... FWD/REV .... just rearly enjoy your vids and fully understand your watchers are pulling you and many different directions so i will pull you in another thanks do you have a paypal account i and others could buy you a coffe..?? Mark from down under Australia with thanks

I have a question. I got the VFD for my "project" and have watched the videos again and again. Now IF a man wanted to install a "hard start kit" for a HVAC unit, only not on a HVAC unit, and wanted to "charge" the capacitor from the wall, to give it an initial charge, how long would he leave it in for to get the Amps up? Thanks any advice would be helpful.

How about adding an SPD (Type2)?

James, quick question... Have followed your build avidly, and decided to upgrade my 0602 as well. I'm pretty sure I've got things spot on as far as the setup is concerned. As I power on, though (stop switch closed, momentary power button pressed, system powers up), as soon as I switch forward or reverse, the GFCI (20 amp) circuit that I'm drawing power off of trips. Thoughts?

Hi James Rather than using a dremel to cut out sheet metal why not look into using a nibbler attachment mounted in a battery drill? Whilst noisy they cut leaving a smooth edge and virtually no dust.

question for you on the circuit breaker and fuse. my vfd is a 240 v input rather than 120, i should use a double pole breaker and 2 fuses, correct?

One note on why the fast acting fuse when you already have the circuit breaker is that the circuit breaker doesn’t trip until the bimetal element inside heats up enough to cause the trip, maybe one to two seconds; the fast acting fuse just blows in a millisecond. This works best if the wiring from the fuse to the VFD runs a long distance and one of the wires is grounded before it gets to the VFD. I hope I make sense to you, at least this is how my electrician friend explained it to me. Are you running this from 110VAC to 3PH??

Is the 30A breaker in the panel also a C curve?

Not sure if you have any plans to do this in the future but I'd absolutely love to see a video on adding a braking resistor to your setup.

Nice job, its very safe now,thanks for the manual explanations.you really lost some weight, how did u do that,please I'm really interested in doing same cos I'm pretty much over weight.

I've been watching this whole series. I may have missed it, but is it possible to supply this VFD with 240v by utilizing both phases from your electrical box? I thought you did but it looks like you are plugging it into a regular 120v outlet.

Ok I have all my parts on the way to put my vdf in a box and wire it for safety with a breaker and fuse, My question is what is the magnetic contactor for? Do you have a link for this? Also I want to add a emergency stop button and a green start button with the linear potentiometer. I was looking at a box that includes the start and stop just a little confused about wiring that up how your lathe is set up. Remind you Im using this vdf and my motor to run a homemade belt grinder.

I am confused. You state that you have a 30a breaker on the 120v circuit but the outlet is standard for 15a service. There are 'standard' outlets for 20a service that look similar or outlets for higher current service but the standard plug cannot be used.

Best regard. In Colombia 220VAC are obtained with two lines of 110VAC each. My question is: Can the EMI filter CW4L2-20A-S be connected to a 2.2kW 12A VFD with 220VAC input and 220VAC three-phase output? This is to be connected to a 3HP and 9A three phase motor. Understanding that: _______________________________________________________________ POWER EMI FILTER POWER SUPPLY SUPPLY LINES IN CW4L2-20A-S OUT LINES FOR VFD (F1) 110VAC -> L L -> 110VAC (F2) 110VAC -> N N -> 110VAC (GND) Earth -> T --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thank you for your attention, time and valuable response. Blessings of health and tranquility in these difficult times.

What model magnetic contractor did you use? Not finding suitable one on eBay. Maybe I’m using the wrong search terms?

Hi Would you upload wiring diagram?

This was all really cool to see. I am curious why you chose to mount everything in a separate enclosure when you could have mounted the VFD behind the control panel like Grizzly does with the G0752? Just easier to film and/or keep things straight in your head? Have you ever tried to install the digital RPM readout or DRO that might also be similar to the Grizzly product but at a cheaper price for better quality? Again thanks for the video series, I feel comfortable enough to start researching how I can apply this to my ShopSmith tools and eventually to my future G0602 and G0704. Any tips on what I might research that might be different for a higher HP motor?

Regarding the fast acting fuse, what is the risk of using a 25amp 320v fuse rather than the 600v one that is specified? For this VFD, were the supply voltage is 110v, I would have assumed that a 320v fuse would have a sufficient factor of safety. Is the higher voltage rating on the specified fuse due potential of higher voltage come off the VFD in case of some type of breakdown (ie voltage generated off the motor as is spins down)?

Do you sell a complete setup 220V (EU)?

You never did say why you need you need a second circuit breaker. It all came down to "... might as well". Why did you multiply the VFD amperage x 1.25?

They also list Ground Fault detector/ breaker but I believe yours is just a regular breaker. No problems with that?

Why did the manual recommend a 600V rated fuse when the input voltage to the VFD is only 120V to ground? Also, if their idea is to have the fuse protect the VFD from a short on the motor, why are they not recommending to install the fuse between the motor and VFD? Last question...Instead if adding a 25A breaker into the crowded enclosure, why not replace the 30A branch circuit breaker in your electrical panel with a 25A breaker? Thanks, I appreciate your videos.

May I ask why did you have to use a motor contactor for controlling the motor when you can use the VFD through the multi functions digital input..?

Hay can any one tell me the control wiring for schneider soft stater altistart 22

I guess you haven't had any over heating problems in the cabinet? I ask because I have ordered a VFD same model as yours and the manual which I received suggested that the VFD have 120mm/4.72" clearance above it and 50mm/1.97" on either side. I guess that your fan at the bottom and the exhaust 'port' as the top is providing enough cooling.???

was all the wires you ran in the box #10 ?

i will be doing the same installation to my machine that is just like yours can i contact you. can i get the schematics of your installation hope to hear from you cheers mate

Couldn't one run it off a 20amp circuit? i.e. I had an electrician install a dedicated outlet with a 20 amp circuit which was based upon the original motor Grizzly supplied motor whose manual called for a minimum 20 amp circuit. Do I have to now get the circuit upgraded to 30 amp. Couldn't I just run with the 20amp circuit? Isn't the worst that could happen is I trip the breaker? And couldn't I just install a 20amp quick blow fuse?

James, I want to install a VFD on my drill press to control the rpm’s. It is the Delta 20” floor model. I don’t know of any other functions that I would need to control. It is 115 /230 volts, currently wired 115. Would you change it to 230 and which VFD would you recommend sir? Thanks in advance and I enjoy your channel very much sir!!! Bobby

The manual appears to 'suggesst' installation of a ground fault circuit interupter/breaker. You appeared to just us a 'regular' style. ????

James, any idea why the affiliate links aren’t working. Maybe too much time has passed?

Hi, Thank you for your tutorial. I am patterning my lathe 3ph motor and VFD after yours. I can not find whar contactor you used? could you give me that info? Thanks, Shawn....

I have a problem with mine. if I start it at 60.00 the machine shuts off. anything over 45.00 on start up it will shut off.

Dude how did you lose so much weight in months?

hey question... about the contactor... if it is not being used to start/stop motor, is it needed?

Nice work!! I have a question that is really making my head spin. I did watch your video a couple of times and I did not find where the contactor wires are coming from, since you bring only two sets of wires from the front control panel on the lathe.

No bootlace ferrules on your wires! Some one is living dangerously.

I do not think, According to the NEC, that the fuse was needed. Just a breaker, contractor, and heaters, if they are not in the motor.

How did you lose the weight ?

Do you have a way to contact you, I've got a question, that no one seems to be able to answer. It's concerning the wiring on a three-phase motor with regards to the vfd, and you're the only one that would seem to be able to answer it.

Hey dude, what happened to you? where did you leave your other half?

There's no penalties for over-performance....

You talkied about 10 gauge wire. I thought you used 12 gauge wire for the incoming power. ?????

All of your links go to the generic homepage at eBay, not the specific items......frustrating. Great videos though.

User manuals are basically liability waivers these days. Do all those things need to be there? Hell no. Do they hurt anything if you put them in? Nah... Unless your wallet gets a vote...

With the fast fuse, your breaker serves no purpose. Under no circumstances that I can think of will it ever trip.

do me a favor.... when ever you are working on anything electrical, take the jewelry off.....