what if your shop is hot? PLA melts.

Def the printer i want

Rapid prototyping will always be the first choice. At the current prices of printers, they are affordable worldwide. So too the model sharing. Imagine first world designs being printed in 3rd world village thru a cell phone wifi'd to a village's printer. That's a new world order the world can get behind.

Decided to take a shot with each 'chicken head.' I am plaaaaaastered.

Nice project. Just an added info about unwanted fumes (namely styrene). In a closed, stagnant environment (shop sized), styrene is heavier than air. As some comments have suggested shop ventalation, I would suggest drawing air from the floor area. Warning: actual empirical info being mentioned now: in a previous job, I was a fiberglass fabricator. At the height of fabrication, my shop would run polyester resin spray guns in the volume of 8000 lbs per week. (16 drums at 500 lbs each). Considering styrene monomer is about 25% of the resin, that's about 1 ton/week. Styrene in gas form is an eye & skin irritant for some people. However, the smell is detectable long before eye or skin iriitantion occur. We're talking parts per million in smell detection. It's my way of saying the amount of styrene gas being produced by printing is laughably small when considering health effects. This over exuberance of concern is little more than science-less social conditioning, but having a scent-free work environment is a worthy goal. As for my 1 K1C printer, I swapped the provided small chunks of carbon filter for a swatch of carbon filter designed for air purification machines and it works sooo much better. Btw, I have yet to see a filament Material Safety Data Sheet required when such volume reaches a threshold.

I learn so so much fusion 360 much from these videos, and in this one I actually followed along in Fusion, even though I have zero user for the finished part :) . I don't think I would have even known where to start, modeling this type of part. Thank you very much James.

I was a visual inspector for Digital Equipment Corporation under contract.

Cool I was into electronics when i was in the Army.

I have a Nikon 7000 with a 109mm macro lens that allows me to stand back from the subject for still and or video. Unfortunately it only goes for about 30 minutes.

James is disappointed...wow. I mean, that thing looks AMAZING for a first run, and it printed way better than anything I've ever been able to do at that kind of scale. I usually need 3, 4 or 5 runs to even get close. I wish I knew 1/10th of Fusion that James knows, but every tutorial I've tried to follow just gets me lost or suddenly they are tossing terms and things around that haven't been explained yet. Even NYC CNC with their learn Fusion gets me lost. I'm just good enough to be VERY dangerous, and I know I'm doing things so wrong...even if I get a design that works. :(

I have a motor just like this and it gets hot like fire when printing is that normal,printer stalls as well

Is it normal for these motors to get hot like fire

James, I don't like electronics below fluids just like you do. If I would design/build it I would keep the touchscreen at the top and connect a jog/dial unit with a cable. I would include axis selection/jogging and zero set per axis. By doing it this way you can hold the unit in your hand and look for sparks appearing. In general part zero set by jogging. More advanced settings I would acces on the touch screen above. The handheld unit can be sturdy and waterproof. Maybe a suggestion. Thank you for sharing all of your nice work! Best, Job

One thing I haven't seen done that you might be able to take advantage of (though probably not on a grinder) is using (tiny) servo motors for the encoders, and creating a force-feedback system based on the axis/spindle loads. It'd be more useful on a CNC conversion of a milling machine or lathe, to allow manual use while preserving the "feel" you get from the mechanical feedback on a manual machine.

You said you have some with usbc, what ones are they, is the usbc an adapter or it's part of the battery? I'm interested in how fast these can charge as well... Are these good alternatives to power banks?

I can 100% confirm that the Bambu printers are actually too fast for a lot of the engineering materials. I slowed mine down significantly for ABS, PETG, PCTG etc. because not only is the surface finish much nicer, but also the layer adhesion is what it’s supposed to be.

As someone who has done professional control panel, this is much better than a lot of what I've seen done even by professionals. The only thing I might have done differently is the position of the e-stop since if you have an emergency, you might smash it, so I wouldn't have put it in a suspended part of the panel. Otherwise, NEVER use those cheap open selectors, as they will rust/corrode/get dirty and create issues after a few years. For the buttons, I usually use Harmony XB from Schneider, as they have a very comprehensive range and lot of options (in this case, since you can have fluid splashing, I would have put a waterproof rubber/silicon hood on top if it was for a customer, but for pers. use, meh). Bit more expensive, but never had an issue with them. The rubber gasket idea is great, never saw that done, and since it's a rather clean environment, should be perfectly adequate. Otherwise, maybe a secondary smaller inner-lip would probably fix that.

I really do not understand these issues, I've been printing with ABS for many years and mostly do functional prints for our industrial products. I never have to adjust for size and print large parts (over 300mm) with out issues. Lately have been using ABS-CF10, and this is even better. I'd love to talk about your issues, and see what the difference is.

I use PETG for all my big prints, belt covers and the like. It is far more reliable than ABS👍

Nice and honest review. I Just ordered a P1S AMS combo to replace my Tiertime Up Mini 2 that’s starting to crap out on me. It should arrive in a few days. Not quite the X1 Carbon but I believe it should suffice for my needs and it’s a bit more affordable. I’m really excited to start printing with it.

Hello James, what is your and everyone’s opinion on printing pla. Like do you need to ventilate the area or is it probably fine? Would the bento box be good for printing pla? Does the bento box harm or affect the printer? Void warranty? I have a P1S btw. Thanks to all

I use to use a cutter grinder spindle to grind in tapers never did i ever get runout less than .002 with a import 5c collet i purchased a set of hardinge high precision 5c collets i thinkyou got it better than you should have with import collets how many times are you going to need it any better but i understand why you do because but is it worth 2500 dollars for a set of hardened and ground precision collets i think you got a great collet chuck now i would bet the bearings in the spindle of the lathe will not hold 0008 for long unless you have already replaced them too you do great work always a pleasure to watch your videos from a 50 year retired machinist

As an Engineer I love G1 fillets. But they are not elegant, they are functional. Elegant requires G2 or preferably G3 curvatures.

I bet PETG will be stiff *enough* for this, especially if you put more ribbing in it. Also has the benefit of basically being the most chemically inert filament I've used short of nylon (which is even more of a pain than ABS).

Why would PETG not be good enough for this? Doesn't look like you want this to be super-stiff and it also doesn't seem to be something that'll get very hot ... So, I'd go with cheap plain PETG.

But no woring??????

New sub was wondering how much and where did you get your collet chuck thanks for sharing your videos and your knowledge

Would ePLA work better?

Alpha rotary switches from Mouser are a great compromise.

High recommend the smooth PEI plate for something like this 🙂 Also, making the sides of the window channels white would probably improve transmission if you wanted it even brighter.

I believe I would cut a piece of silicone mat or similar, so that you could attach it at the top of the panel to lay over the controls to keep the yucky stuff off. You could just lift it up with one hand do the Tappy tap tap with the other and lay it back down

Did anybody else notice that all the steppers are tested at 48v and the clearpath on 75v ?? no suprise it outperforms the rest. a test with all motors on the same voltage would give much better results. Idk if nema23's can do higher voltages but Nema34's can.

How about using strong magnets in the upper corners of the console instead of set screws to hold them down to the machine?

I'm just here for the chicken-head knobs

As others have mentioned ASA is straight up a better filament then ABS. Let’s leave it to the injection molders.

It's pretty difficult to get shrinkage exactly right since a part doesn't uniformly shrink. With PolyMaker ABS I'm getting just about 1% shrinkage and account for that in the slicer. Additionally whenever I print something large I preheat the chamber as hot as I reasonably can, at least 40 degrees. Hopefully those changes with possibly altered, or even added, geometry to reinforce it while printing helps. Countersunk screws is a recipe for disaster with thin walls/parts. Avoid them as much as possible or possibly counterbore for a pan head screw if you like the appearance. At best it'll deform, at worst it splits. And you already mentioned it but print hotter and slower for better adhesion.

Or, you could have two panels! One out of the way with the screen, and another down where you can touch off etc. Alternatively, it looks like you have enough room to install a transparent cover that slides off to the left. Sheet of bent perspex would be ideal.

You could add a fold-down shield. In the up position it shields from debris. In the down position it protects the knobs and display when you are moving parts onto and off the grinder.

Have you tried polymaker tough PLA (not a sponsor)? It is about 2x the price of every other PLA but it isn't at all brittle. It turns white and bends like ABS but prints like PLA. It still shrinks a little (like PLA) but doesn't require a heated chamber or anything of the other fusiness of ABS. It also has a really nice matte (or maybe satin) finish I like.

For buttons and switches i always use Eatons M22 Series. They offer everything…

Why not print in a PLA+? I don't think the uses and abuse physically on the box will be that high.

For mounting the panel, what about leaving nearly everything the same as you already plan to do it but having the bottom instead connected via some Loc-Line-like hose connection for flexibility in positioning? Feed the (preferably long and uncut) electronics cable through the Loc-Line, then you have the option of moving the panel down where it is now or up where DROs are usually mounted at your leisure or anywhere in between, and now you have a movable panel! :) If you need extra stability, probably do what Adam Savage did with his camera/lights setup and add some thick gauge aluminum armature wire in there as needed.

Looks really nice. As are all of your designs. I do wonder, though, if mounting the touch screen up high, and then mounting the controls on a pendant, was considered? The would keep the dirt and grit away from the electronics, plus give you the ability to control it from any vantage point.

Welcome back James. Hope you are on the mend now.

I might have missed a previous video, but I figured I would say the motors are putting axial loading the feed handles. I wouldn't guess they were designed to "handle" lol loading in that way. You might consider updating the bearings on the handles to deal with the loading. Cool project I haven't seen the series so my suggestion might be mute. Thanks for the videos

Why not make the control panel a pendant do you can move it where you want?

Hi, James; glad you’re feeling up to editing a video (I know how time consuming that can be).

v73 on Fusion. Yep I have some 'simple' things with that many too 🤣

It’s gonna be a long grind? Quality pun, sir. Any chance you can share links to the controls you're keeping? I think my printer needs an e-stop switch…

The mic XLR input should be female to stick with male-female cable convention …and to reduce the fluff catcher capacity