Using an engraving pen is a great idea to remove small areas of mask. I should buy one. Thanks.

Yes, i played X-Wing and its successor Tie Fighter in 1993 and 1994. I had the floppy disk versions and i completed both games. For X-Wing i also bought the two Addons B-Wing and Imperial Pursuit. With X-Wing i've ruined my joysticks multiple times. After the first one broke, I bought a second one. Until that one broke too. Then I changed my strategy and unscrewed the joystick and tried to fix it. That was one of my first repair attempts, I was still a child. The joysticks were constructed quite cheaply and did cost less than 40 DM. The dealer didn't have any others for sale either. Back then the choice was very limited. The cables from the ground plate to the buttons on the stick were torn apart. So I routed new cables through the very tight stick. But they were too stiff, so that the joystick was quite stiff and uneven. Fortunately, at some point a new joystick the CH Flightstick was offered. It had to be good, because it was three times as expensive at over 120 DM. This joystick has lasted far longer. But since it used 50k potentiometers with sliding contacts for the axes, these also broke at some point. Luckily those were a lot easier to repair because I just had to buy new potentiometers and swap them out. I did that 2-3 times and then also played through Tie Fighter with this joystick. The CH Flightstick was basically a good joystick, but it only had 2 buttons and 2 axes and lacked USB and was therefore no longer suitable for later games. Oh, one more thing. I also bought X-Wing Alliance sometime around the turn of the millennium, but I haven't played through it until today. I didn't have the time and inclination for that anymore. But I still have my old savegame files, so I could finish the game at any time.

I played Star Wars: X-Wing vs. TIE Fighter from 1997 for many, many hours. It was the first game that I played in multiplayer over the internet. Microsoft offered the Zone as an online matchmaking service/community and although it could be rough getting it going with dial-up modem, it was lots of fun.

I completely agree with the "bios must be blue" sentiment. Great job! It's always fascinating to watch this hardware come back up life.

I spent countless hours on X-Wing, and before that, Rebel Assault. I re-acquired them a year or two ago when all Star Wars games on Gog went on sale. :)

I've noticed corrosion tends to follow copper traces and vias through a pcb. I'm not sure whether this is capillary action or just a result of the chemistry. Its astonishing how far it can travel along a trace without any effect on the intervening sections of pcb

Excellent repair! I did play x-wing as a kid but never managed to finish the first level. I just remember the first fmv.

Not only is an external battery connector an option, but there is a PCB you can make called not a varta which plugs into where the Varta Battery would go and has circuitry to allow the use of a cr1220. It's a cool project.

Nice Cyrix math on board! ))

I have no experience with 386 bios menus, but I really like the colorful default colors. Clean works as always!

I never played X-Wing, but I loved Tie Fighter.

Always a joy to see an old board brought back to life.

Great job!, and you remember me when I was young and play that game. 😅

I've never actually seen even a badly abused, dead and swollen cr2032 leak! And it's easy enough to re-engineer the circuit so it does't try to charge it. I'm also fairly confident in NiMH replacement cell types being OK in the leakage department. It's spectacularly difficult to leak them. The leaky cells were all NiCd. But it's also perfectly fine to have a different risk assessment.

these old boards and works of art.. thanks for the video.

Replacing solder mask after tinning is not needed. Solder itself does pretty good job at protecting copper traces from oxidation.

Nice, like ! Those old 386 / 486 motherboards look so different from later ones from the Pentium 2 / 3 era.

Thanks for your sharing

I hope you can keep this machine running for many years

Very nice. Good job 👍

good tips, great video.

You always get a like from me. Once again a perfect job, keep it up.

As always, check if there is a MR-BIOS for this chipset on the motherboard. If there is, i strongly recommend to switch out the bios. Amongst other things, you will get support for multi-gigabyte HDDs, too.

All those button cell holders people use have a diode so they don't recharge.

Really cool restoration. Sadly my very first computer a Dell P90 is long gone to the obsolete electronics landfill. The 1990's were exciting times with computer advances and the new fangled thing called the internet! I got into computer just as 3D gaming became a reality with consumer voodoo hardware. Doom was mind blowing when it came out.

I had this & Tie fighter . Thise games cist me a fortune in broken joysticks . . 😂

love tie fighter, played it on my cyrix pr166mx in 98

I did play it on a 16mhz 386sx. Now that computer has suffered the same fate as your motherboard with a leaking battery. I hope I can fix it because it was my first PC.

Im currently working on my 386. Same thing. Ive re tinned the taces and just waiting for my formal coating to arrive. Nive video Should point out i have a motherboard that only has external battery connector and it does have charging on it. It was by design i guess

Soldering time! 😊

Nope, never played X-Wing. My first SW title was TIE Fighter on my cousin's P100 ;)

I have an identical motherboard which I fixed on a video on my channel. It works but every time I run DOOM, it's like one of the keyboard keys gets stuck. I attempted many things but never managed to fixed it. It would be great if I could borrow your keyboard controller chip - as the one installed is not compatible with one of the "generic" installed in similar boards. I will send you an email. Great job with the yellow solder mask, my solution was much less accurate than yours! :)

X-wing collector CD.

What brand is that solder mask and where did you get it? I've been looking for translucent but can't seem to find it.

i played some tie figher. i was more of a dark forces fan though

Use fiberglass pen to remove solder mask

Thanks for sharing this! I have the exact same motherboard. The corrosion damaged the trace that connects the C2 capacitor (5:37 on your video) to the 2nd pin of keyboard controller. I fixed the trace and also removed all the components starting from keyboard connector going all the way until the resistors just right after keyboard controller. Continuity is there, no broken traces. ISA is having all the correct voltages but when using the POST analyzer card I am getting indication only on +12V rail. I am running out of ideas of what else might be broken there. Capacitors look ok. There are two transistors, both between ISA 8bit and ISA 16bit slot. I cannot identify them though. Maybe this is the problem? Any ideas how to identify them?

OOOOOH maybe this can help me repair my 286.

You could had used ML2032 instead, those are rechargeable CR2032 used in the sega dreamcast

12:30 What is the name of that tool, you are using here?

External battery voltage must be higher than 3.6v, afair 4 to 6 volts

Mmm nice and early.

Guys, my copper cord doesnt absorb the tin, do I need flux?

You got away rather unscattered with this board...

386 boards is new bitcoin

the next step will be xt-ide on an ethernet card ))