Level Up Your Gundams: Making Copies of Gunpla Parts Using Oyumaru Blue Stuff & Epoxy Resin

Рет қаралды 11,239

Күн бұрын

An update from the first video I ever made on KZfaq.
Let's use some blue stuff oyumaru to make two part molds of Gunpla parts and cast them in liquid resin. For bonus points, add UV glow paint and pigment for some sweet low tech light up effect parts.
Oyumaru: amzn.to/3IOo1GS
Clear Epoxy Resin: amzn.to/41zwrcK
UV Acrylic Paint: amzn.to/3klPoPo
Glow in the Dark Pigment Powder: amzn.to/3Zd70vo
Lego Base: amzn.to/3lYiaWB
Plasticine Clay: amzn.to/3ECLvfQ
BONUS Black Light Bar for Glow Effect: amzn.to/3ISAJEP
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Пікірлер: 53

@kirionDK 6 ай бұрын

With the money I spent on the lego I could have just bought the parts... jokes aside, cool video

@MidnightHatter 6 ай бұрын

🤣🤣🤣 Too true!

@pigeonsstackingoneachother9555 5 ай бұрын

You could use cling-wraps for better cleanups when using clay at the start. You could either put the cling wrap on top of the clay just before you set the piece, or put it on top of the piece after you've set it ontop of the clay and just before you add the first half of the mold. Then you can cut out wooden skewers (or just cut out sprues) on the holes since the cling-wrap is gonna cocer them up, a big problem when using this trick.

@GundamExplained Жыл бұрын

Wow these turned out amazing.

@ChoiSeHo688 Жыл бұрын

Waw thank I was searching for recasting gunpla nad this one was youre updated and more detailed one. :3

@wolfbrother9025 23 күн бұрын

Now to find one that successfully uses the runner plastic so it's already the right color

@DA-GOOSE Жыл бұрын

I wish you did this on the podcast. But this was an awesome video.

@goku1395 Жыл бұрын

This was great! I may have to try this out sometime! Only issue is that I have never taken chemistry so I am not sure that it will turn out well. But I guess trial and error right?

@toaquiroh3767 Ай бұрын

Great video! quick question, do you think it's possible to repeat this but instead of using epoxy resin, using spare model kit runners melted with acetone?

@MidnightHatter Ай бұрын

Thanks! I have not had success casting parts using sprue glue/sprue goo even with more reliable molds made from silicone (see my experiment hereRecycle Your Runners! | How I Cast Gunpla Parts from Melted Plastic in Silicone Molds kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hc2aqLCQq9-8l4k.html) Stay tuned though because after A LOT of research on plastics I may have a solution on that front.

@skyrider4789 6 ай бұрын

Just started playing with this stuff a week ago. Exciting stuff, but I think I need to buy some legos off Ebay now. 😊 Good to know about letting the thermoplastic cool down naturally. For Resin, I'm wondering if it affects the reuse life of the Blue Stuff? 🤔 Thanks for the video! 👍

@MidnightHatter 6 ай бұрын

It is a great product! Legos make life just a little easier. Great question about the resin! I’ve been using oyumaru and resin for over a year with no problems reusing it, but the life of an individual mold is reduced by quite a bit because of the heat generated by the resin which warps the mold. Especially with the quick cast resins and it’s even worse with larger parts. But hey, that’s the best part about oyumaru! Just make a new mold and start again!

@bojox3m2 6 ай бұрын

wow

@skyrider4789 5 ай бұрын

Thanks for the video. You didn't video the cleaning of the clay. Besides freezing, any tips on cleaning off all the clay? Do you use IPA or tool? 🙏

@MidnightHatter 5 ай бұрын

I haven’t tried IPA, but that might help. I have used toothbrushes to scrub away tiny bits of leftover clay.

@bigfloppymonster 3 ай бұрын

Do you have a tutorial or link for a mold using a channel like you mentioned for when the parts arent as flat?

@MidnightHatter 3 ай бұрын

The king of mold making is Robert Tolone, he specializes in silicone mold though. This tutorial is one of the few that he does a two part mold: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rap8isSIv92ynWw.htmlsi=1tA0eGCOUJsI-rox. Even though he's using silicone, you could in theory use the same techniques with oyumaru, but oyumaru will not be as water-tight as silicone, so it may make a bit of a mess, especially with a slow curing resin. The important takeaway is the "sprue" or pour spout that you mold into one side in order to allow you to pour resin down into.

@akhdannaufaldy1693 6 ай бұрын

Subbed. Im having trouble to recast a missing part of my gundam, i only have the right part and missing the left part. The question is how to mirror recast it? Edit: the missing part have same shape but have different side ball joint.

@MidnightHatter 6 ай бұрын

That’s a good question. Some parts may not be possible to recast from the opposing side. But it sounds like yours is relatively simple? Maybe you can add some non curing clay like plasticine to it when making the mold? Without knowing the piece I can’t say 100%

@akhdannaufaldy1693 6 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter the missing piece is the left part of the leg with side ball joint (for side leg armor) in Load Astray Omega. Maybe should i just recast the same right part, then nip the ball joint and glue it on the opposite to make the missing left part?

@MidnightHatter 6 ай бұрын

That’s a good idea. If it really is no different besides which side the ball joint is fixed on that could work.

@swakage13x 11 ай бұрын

I need to do this with my soon to come gcue legs for my custom m1 astray, but im gonna be using milliput instead if resin

@MidnightHatter 11 ай бұрын

Milliput is great! Apoxy Sculpt is another option, a bit cheaper, but also a little more brittle.

@swakage13x 11 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter yeahh that brittleness kinda ruins its usage for me. Plus I need to do it as well for the Nobel gundam legs and hair piece, Because both of my nieces want their own gundoms And making copies of the only true female gundam Parts would be beneficial for them So they get to build their own, And I mean they are going to be 7 and 11 So if I can get them into the hobby at a younger age it's a good thing And that's a great way Plus all I have to do is just get some spray paint and I can paint them up for them And they can slap them together And have them for years to come

@MidnightHatter 11 ай бұрын

That’s so sweet of you! Passing the hobby on to a new generation. I love it. In that case, I wonder if Cosclay might be even better! It has to be baked to cure so you couldn’t do it in an oyumaru mold, you may need to go silicone, but the final product cures to a soft rubber-like plastic like the Mobile Suit in Action figures if you remember that line.

@swakage13x 11 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter Well my dad got me into the hobby when the no grade wing gundam models hit the stores here in the states, And as I have no kids of my own why not pass it on to my nieces Because they're about the same age my stepbrother and I were when we got our first models. He got the wing shenlong and I got shenlong My cousin got sandrock and deathscythe And my godbrother got heavyarms and tallgeese. And because I have a bunch of different models they can pick and choose parts from them So they can make their own custom unit. And I mean maybe in the future I might do that for that but for right now Just making A simple model for them to Build and put on display That they put together themselves maybe not paint Is way better than nothing.

@sylvainp7608 Жыл бұрын

I thought you couldn't use resin with oyumaru since the curing process generates heat and it would deform the mold ?

@MidnightHatter Жыл бұрын

Turns out you can get away with it with certain types of resin. The quick-cure stuff I like to use gets too hot, but the slow resin was fine.

@sylvainp7608 Жыл бұрын

@@MidnightHatter Wow ! Thanks for the tip. Thing is, I just bought 4 old boxes of Ral Partha Dragonlances miniatures that are way overpriced and out of print. I want to keep the originals intact while still be able to paint them and I've been searching for weeks over the internet on the best method to do this. Problem is Ral Partha miniatures are very detailed and have small parts too. I'm crossing my fingers using your resin will work.

@MidnightHatter Жыл бұрын

@@sylvainp7608 Well if they are highly detailed you may be better off using silicone over oyumaru. Silicone captures details way better than oyumaru if only a little messier.

@M3nacria 4 ай бұрын

What exactly is the clear melty plastic that you used for the second half of the mold?

@MidnightHatter 4 ай бұрын

It’s oyumaru as well! It comes in a few colors. I like the clear because you can see what’s going on in the mold: www.amazon.com/dp/B07M9XS3FX/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_NT170X6ZGNRHRBN5PCQ6?linkCode=ml2&tag=midnighthatte-20

@M3nacria 4 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter oh wow, you mean the clear one naturally doesn't stick to the blue one?

@MidnightHatter 4 ай бұрын

@@M3nacria Unfortunately no, they can stick together but only if both sides are warm. If one side is cool and the other is melted, you don't get as much stickiness.

@M3nacria 4 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter that's actually pretty good though, thank you

@newtybot 4 ай бұрын

Im high af rn cus towards the end I thought you was making a weird sandwich

@SonicoBomo 9 ай бұрын

Why not just use more bluestuff instead of the plastasine in the beginning? Wouldn't you get the two part mould in less steps doing it that way?

@SonicoBomo 9 ай бұрын

@@asimhussain8716 Gotcha, thanks for explaining that.

@GyrollMachVenturi 3 ай бұрын

Zeta music

@MidnightHatter 3 ай бұрын

You know it. ❤️‍🔥

@paulalagar892 Жыл бұрын

How long did the resin cure?

@MidnightHatter Жыл бұрын

48 hours. Even then it was still a little soft, which was great for trimming the flashing off but it was about 72 hours before the parts hardened into their final shape.

@paulalagar892 Жыл бұрын

@@MidnightHatter I tried recasting joint parts using epoxy resin and let it cure for 3 days but the final result is a little bendy. Is it still curing or I messed up the mixture?

@SiniBANG 7 ай бұрын

Can this work using melted runners?

@MidnightHatter 7 ай бұрын

I would say probably not. If you use heat to melt the runners you’d melt the mold. If you use acetone to melt the runners, you’d probably get imperfections like the pock marks I got when I tried melted runners in silicone.

@SiniBANG 7 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter thanks for the input, I'll think for other ways to use the runners that piled up. Used it for seam line removal so far, not sure what to do next.

@DanteMac26 9 ай бұрын

Hi! I've been trying this with green stuff, but the item I'm trying to cast keeps coming out bigger than the original. Any help would be appreciated, ask any questions necessary. Thanks!

@MidnightHatter 9 ай бұрын

I think the most likely problem is that green stuff is much denser than liquid resin or soft putty, so the amount of force you have to apply to squeeze out any excess is A LOT. If you want to use green stuff, you definitely need to make registration divots in one side of the mold so that both halves join together correctly and stay aligned while you smash it. Before it’s done curing you can also open the mold and cut out the flash to make clean up easier later. I’d recommend this tutorial:kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ps93Y5eYnJyxkWw.htmlsi=MTD1WbqC3WD1kjPB

@MidnightHatter 9 ай бұрын

You can also try to soften the green stuff with a solvent like mineral spirits or something. It I haven’t tried that myself.

@DanteMac26 9 ай бұрын

@@MidnightHatter Thanks a lot! I really had not thought about the density. After watching your videos I realized I probably wasn’t using enough force, and started using a clamp. This gave me a much better result, but I think there’s still room for lots of improvement. Also, I have been using bits of sprue as pins to keep it aligned. Thanks again, I’ll check out that video

@CaptEirikr 9 ай бұрын

@@DanteMac26 You can also play around with the greenstuff ratios; a softer more pliable mix might take longer to cure and be less rigid, but may deform your molds less under pressure.