One other cool thing you can do with this technique is 'float' reinforcing bars on the inside of your parts. For something like that thunder hammer, the haft will be really bendy with green stuff or really brittle with milliput. So just before pressing the two halves of the filled mould together, lay in a length of paperclip or brass rod right down the centre of the haft, it'll come out much more strong and stiff. For bonus points, sculpt some tentacles or cables, cast them in a two-part mould in green stuff with a thin florist's wire reinforcement, and when the putty cures they're basically poseable.

By far the *best* most in depth video about Blue Stuff. Most don't even show the failures or mention how making a two part mold sorta melts them together, your simple but effective methods really help demonstrate what to do and how to avoid messes

Just wanted to say thank you I just got into 40K on budget. Can some of my minis were missing limbs this saved me so much money!!!

"You can even see my unevenly drilled barrel holes" felt

I mean, the video is very informative and entertaining, but can we talk about the thumbnail? It's genius! Combining eyecatching and humorous, yet fitting (Heh, because it's a mold) visuals with an appealing title that doubles as a clever pun! Can't get much better than that.

You can also use Sprue Goo (leftover model sprues, cut up into small pieces and melted down with acetone) in these molds, but it's best used for very thin pieces. Otherwise, the acetone collects in one place and gives you big bubble cavities in two-part molds. I never thought of using Lego with Oyumaru to make the molds stay together, that's really smart! I found that one of the best ways to ensure the two parts of the mold could come apart later was to put the first half in the fridge for a while, then heat up the putty for the second half, slap it on, and throw the whole thing in the fridge again. The cold half of the mold resists melting long enough to get it back into the fridge where everything can cool down and the edges don't melt together nearly as much. Then, when it's time to peel them apart, I'd put them in my pocket to get them slightly warm and pull them apart that way. Easy peasy.

You need to use releas Wax when doing double sided molds. Or at least use Kitch Oil like Sunflower Oil. If you do big parts like that TH-Hammer use a peace of Wire and lay it in the middel between 2 smal ammounts of Greenstuff when pressing it into the mold. So you end up with a more resistant Handelpart that doesnt flex or snap as easy.

i use milliput, and the best application is for bulky bodies (like Cities of Sigmar dwarfs), because you don't risk to lose details or to break them... they give you 20 pair of arms, 20 heads, and 10 bodies: it's my duty to make 20 models

Don't heat the blue stuff in a container you're going to eat or drink from ever again, remnants of your epoxy/resin will remain on the blue stuff and can be pretty toxic.

So many Swedish KZfaqrs these days. Love it.

The more Learn about this hobby, the more I love it! While I'm focusing on improving my paint skills, I'm definitively trying this at some time

Chcemy więcej tańca!!!

Things I learned today, blue stuff is magic!

this is awesome, custom weapons and repairing broken parts will be easier than ever. awesome video!

if you want to add another step you could fill the mold with water then measure how much water is in it to get the exact volume of putty to use

This is by far the best tutorial for making casts of your parts Thank-you for the video and the extra little tips my hobby friend 🤓

Suuuper impressed! Love that Lego press, it’s genius!!

Mix milliput with green stuff to get firmness and flexibility. Best of both worlds

Replace Green with Brown stuff, so that the opieces aren't flimsy.

Exercise is a great idea for that 3 minutes of spare time!

I had the same issues with 2 faces cloning but never thought about using lego, you're a genius man ! "Mom where are my olds legos ??"

Ive been really wanting to recast bakugan parts with this stuff im finally gonna try it.

My man you deserve more views on this video. This is a great and very comprehensive guide on how to use bluestuff. It got me pumped up to replicate some bits and pieces I need more of :)

I had never thought of a Lego press before. It's ingenious! I usually cast with a 1::1 mix of green stuff and brown stuff in my blue stuff molds. And I've almost never had a use for sprue goo, but now I want to use an Oyumaru cast to make a Milliput mold and try to fill that with sprue goo. It's almost never an issue with recent character models anymore, but I hate mortals going into battle sans helmets, and for the longest time GW sold almost only helmetless character kits, so that was my top priority first use case for casting my own bits, followed by a bunch of pistols for the 2017 edition of Kill Team, and then additional bodies to not let all the extra weapons, heads, and often legs go to waste. And I'm excited for Warhammer: The Old World, very much including all the beautiful returning metal models, but I hate working with metal, and some are infamously top-heavy, to boot, so I'll most likely copy 'em all.

I've been waiting for this! Amazing as always!

omg!! Dude, this blue stuff is exactly the kind of tool i was looking for! Haha Thanks mate! :)

Thanks for a really interesting and fun video ☺ Very well explained and some killer dance floor moves into the bargain! I've subscribed 👍😆😆😆 Apparently mixing green stuff AND Milliput (50/50) gives the best of both products. I haven't tried this yet but one day.... One day!!

great jsut bought blue stuff. now i have to go find some lego., what a hobby this is

One thing I heard (but haven't really tried enough yet to 100% confirm) is to make "gates" on your two part moulds. Pick suitable areas of the bit where it will be easier to clean afterwards and press something like a paper clip in to the mould to create a channel (or channels) comings off of the part. When you press the two parts together, excess putty will hopefully be forced down these channels, rather than squeezing between the two moulds. Hopefully this should reduce mould slipping and give better results.

Great video, thank you so much!

Awesome

😮 I need that iron man armour. Loved the Vid man, your effort has not gone unappreciated

Great vid !

The song in the middle got me hooked...Great Job!

Very nice and well done! you deserve more subs. Keep up the good work!

I've heard of people coming milliput with greenstuff to make a firm but flexible end result.

A video taht is as always - good, as always - funny, as always - yeaches You stuff...but this time..Stefan doing 90's disco dance - TOP 3!!! Keep them comming!

Really useful video for using blue stuff. You deserve a lot more views than you have. Engagement + Sub.

Thumbs up just for the dancing. 👍🏻

You deserve far more subscribers, excellent video as always

Great video, Ill have to try that lego method

1000 subscribers 🤜🍻🤛

you can also mix greenstuff with miliput, first mix them separately then mix them together, it creates a much stronger putty excellent for parts. Another possible solution is epoxy glue, cures after 24 hrs but havent tried it myself, heard it can work.

👌👌👌

😂 That outtake. Great job of the methods. Not sure, but maybe isopropyl alcohol would work better to join two bits of milliput. It works well to smooth the stuff while sculpting with it.

I found recasting miniatures with milliput often has them looking quite chunky compared to original models and the weight of milliput recast after is nearly 2 times heavier.

Whitemorph is cheaper but not a good alternative... It sticks while soft (When you're putting in the object to cast) and then solidifies without any bend or stretch, so getting your parts or cast parts out is near impossible

Great video! Definitely going to have to get some of this. Do you know if it reacts to plastic glue? Would sprue goo be a viable option for a cast?

I found that if I put the first layer before adding the top (for 2-part), the two sides didn't stick nearly as much.

Have you tried the hot silicone glue to make the molds insteads oyumaru?

How long does the blue stuff mold last once a I make an impression?

silly question does blue stuff or other polymorph thermoplastic melt like other plastic when dipped inside aceton or other chemical that melts it?

Har du testat göra en hel gubbe?? Vilken tycker du är bättre green stuff eller milliput?

Stick the blue stuff in the freezer, goes harder and might not melt with UV resin.

Will 2-part liquid epoxy resin release after drying when poured into a one-sided Blue Stuff mold? 🤔 Or will the chemical heat cause the Blue Stuff to soften and stick?

One shop who sells stuff for cosplay and also Blue stuff recommended to me, that if I want to use hot glue gun, I should put the Blue stuff in freezer before I fill it with the glue. What do you think? Could this prevent the Blue Stuff from melting?

Question. Would you recommend me to use a one-sided mold or a double press mold for a sword? It's for a Uruk-Hai mini as sadly it fell, broke and got lost, so I'm missing a sword.

Can it be used on wood carvings ?

I'm going to use milliput. What's the curing time

Does it also Work with Sprue Goo?

Can talc help separate the two sides of a blue stuff mold without ruining it?

Does this also work with miliput?

I have been trying to use resin in two part molds but many of them leaked. How can I avoid that?

Oh heck yeah, now to duplicate the new terminators and turn them to world eaters

This is more or less how I replicate bits and entire miniatures for my own use

Ha this was awesome, why do have so few views?

Great video! I saw someone mention that mixing 50/50 of green stuff and milliput makes the best result, have you tried that method?

Heres a little trick i use to make separation of mold parts easyer: put tinfolil around model - this will limit contact surface of mold parts.

Blue stuff has ALWAYS been to soft to make moulds out off