Larry is now the DCC Jedi!

A few years ago, I tore out all of the fluorescent fixtures in my layout room, and installed sixteen of these Barrina LED T5 fixtures. What a difference! No regrets to this day. I even later purchased a spare box of eight fixtures, in the event that a fixture ever goes bad. To date, no failures. I have the 6,500K fixtures. Might be too bright or white for some, but it’s what came recommended back then. I like it. Being red-green colorblind, it’s fine! 😂

Thank you Larry and Ron for always finding products for model railroaders and explaining the pros and cons of each.

This is a very slick system, it seems very well thought out. Very fine video! Thanks Larry!!! Thanks to Ron too!!!

Another excellent video with a nice variety of options. Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail. 👍🏽👍🏽

Larry, similar to several comments mentioning caution before buying these lights. The lights fixtures probably are not labelled as UL approved for US use, they definitely will not pass the European/British standard (BS EN 60598). Obvious points of failure are: 1) The mains connector does not have a leading earth pin - this ensures that the live and neutral connections disconnect before the earth, 2) the daisy chain connector is a male type - so the live and neutral contacts are exposed at the end of the run or if an interconnecting cable is removed, 3) when connected using only live and neutral the fixture, as you demonstrated, must be double insulated, I could not see the double square symbol on the rating plate. Not so obvious points of failure could be: 4) (As mentioned below) is the metalwork connected adequately to the earth pin? 5) Is the earth connected directly to the metalwork - if it is via the driver (electronics) then that is a no no, and finally 6) The through wiring for daisy chaining these fixtures must be at least 1.5mm2 cross sectional area ( 2.5mm2 for some countries). If I purchased some electrical equipment that arrived with the issues mentioned above it would be returned straight away for a complete refund. I'm not sure what the insurance situation if an incident occurred with these in my house. P.S. I spent 7 years as a senior test engineer at a world wide lighting manufacturer. Please be cautious with cheaply priced products.

It's amazing how far LED lights have come. It used to be LED under cabinet lighting was super expensive because it was the "new trendy thing" now these lights are everywhere and much more affordable. Don't get me wrong, SMD rolls are fine, but sometimes you just want a plug and play approach

hello Larry & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Larry & Friends Randy

I have been using these 5K Barrina lights too. I installed a black lighted rocker panel on the end of the layout upper fascia as I enter the room. I just reach up to flip the switches for the lights I want on. The extension cord works great if you have an L shaped shelf that you want to light up. You can make that bend.

Thanks Larry, that's a great solution and relevant for me as I grapple with the need / benefit for overhead lighting on my shelf layout.

I just installed the exact same fixtures a couple of weeks ago on my rail yard that I added. They work great and just as Larry describes. I give these a thumbs up as well. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for sharing.👍

Thanks Larry. I have been using some of these for a couple years now and they are a great gift to model railroaders! Easy to install, flexible in arrangement, and efficient. My wife even likes them, except she says I should remount a couple to make he ceiling symmetrical.

Awsome! Love the light sabers! 👍

Thanks Larry for another informative video! Appreciate it!

That's some nice lights. I'll check into these.

THANK YOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO

Been using these for years

Very interesting.

When buying electric parts from Amazon Ebay and other similar sources, Check the Grounds are actually connected to each plug and to the metal case with an ohm meter. Many of these import fixtures of all types the ground is not connected and can cause Fatal problems when other parts fail and contact the case. Big Clive and other Electrical Engineers have many videos of examples but seen way more then those.

Larry nice product I used the older style LEDs on my levels and I use Alexa to turn them on and off.

Larry those fittings are a serious electrical danger, the connector on the end of the fitting to extend to the next fitting has live exposed pins. The electrical supply cable with the plug has no ground so the fittings are not grounded when the supplied cord is used. It is also possible to plug a supply cable into both ends of the lights and have full mains voltage on the plug pins.

Nicely done. Personally I like 5000-6500k as it looks most like natural daylight to my eye. I am tempted to try an RGBW strip with controls that simulate sunrise / sunset and even lightning if you want.

The AC receptacle has 3 prongs, presumably one a ground - maybe - but the power cord and AC plug seem to be 2-wire. So, if the housings are metal, they aren't grounded if using the AC plug. That alone does not necessarily disqualify them from this or that safety certification, but something to think about.

LEDs are more energy efficient than anything else, and a fir bit brighter. If I use them, they'll almost all be dimmable so I can adjust it for what I need.

Color choice also depends on height from track. 3000 is good for lower level if you like the yellowish/ radish color but if you only have one level and a full 7-8ft. ceiling you may want to use a brighter color 5009, 6000, 6500. The price I understand is reasonable.

I just read the Amazon reviews on these and, although mostly favorable, a number of recent reviewers complained about a short (one year plus minus) service life for some of these fixtures, despite a 3-year warranty. I sent an email directly to Barrina with this concern, I will report back if/when I get a reply. After 30 days I suspect going through Amazon for a claim would be problematic.

Cool.

I'm going to order some of those lights. Please keep us posted on their reliability.

Did you mention if they are dimable? Some LEDs aren't...

Remember those 5050 LED's that you showed is 1 amp per meter or 39 inches that equates to 5 amp or 16.5 feet and on the 110 volt is 60 watts equivalent to 60 watt traditional light bulb. There are 1875 watts in a 15 amp circuit so either way you go would take several feet to blow a circuit.

Hi Larry, You might want to buy a "Kill -a-Watt" meter (less than 30 bucks) which you plug into an electrical outlet, then plug your string of lights into it. The meter will tell you how many amps the light or string of lights draw and how many watts they use.

These lights look great. Can they be used in Australia as we run on 240V?

I would like to see your track plan. What is the title or number of the vlog? I have been away from the hobby for over 30 years. I’m going to try to do a Kato N Scale Unitrack Layout and use DCC. Thanks for the exceptional work you do. I must say I am a little overwhelmed at all the videos and thinking of what I want to accomplish. I live near Altoona PA about 2 miles away from the Blair County Convention Center and was just at a train show 3-24-2024. Mostly old trains and no operating Layouts except for a small N Scale Kato. There will be an NScale Train show September 14 & 15 at the convention center. I hope to get there. As to DCC I’m leaning towards Digitrax, but would like sound. One Vendor was recommending ESU. I saw your video on what you use. Any other suggestions or advice? Thank you

I did a video recently on this with my dream solution. The concept is elegant cheap expandable and looks the business great stuff I hope it’s a winner for you. Mine is 11/10

👍

Hi Larry... love your teaching method. Question: what is the distance from the top of the foam on your lower level to the underside of the framing of the upper level in this video?

They look great! BUT: Are they dimmable? I like to run night operations on my layout. The lights I now have are supposed to be dimmable but they only go down to like late afternoon. Turning them off is like midnight in a tunnel.

The top of my layout is 6" from the ceiling. If I mount the lights on the ceiling would that give me enough ligt ? thanks

Larry, how does the light output, brightness, compare to your 60W equivalent light bulbs placed 36” apart? I also use LED light bulbs but I use 100W equivalent placed at 30” apart. I want to make sure the light brightness matches if I go with these LED tubes in your video.

Has anyone had trouble with these affecting their tv reception or wifitrax system?

One of the things I have found is that a lot of the Chinese lights are not Underwriting Laboratory approved… thus used at risk. Are these UL approved? Nothing mentioned on Amazon that I could find.

Larry. Love your Train and DCC info. However, your lighting info is lacking. I would suggest lighting one’s model railroad with high quality light. There is a difference between a quality fixture and quality light. These fixtures have a CRI of 58? That would be terrible. I suspect it’s a typo and should be 85. In the lighting world a CRI of 85 is generic garage light. To light my model railroad, I will opt for a light with a color rendering index of 90+ at 5000k because it is supposed to be an outdoor daylight scene. Nick

He got lightsabers

Sorry I meant 6 ft.

I have eight of the 8 footers in my garage, 4000k color temperature. I'm going to need 4 more! I will use these on my MRR. Funny how they have three wires, hot neutral, and ground, yet the plug only has hot and neutral, no ground. Typical Chinese shenanigans.