This video is, as all yours on the subject are, a go-to standby for layout building. Thank you for it, and your consistent excellence and dependability. I do not think of doing any work on my layout without checking to see if you've done a video on the subject at hand, and watching it first to prepare. That said, I have an unusual request. I'd love to see you make a video that begins with a mistake intentionally made, so we can learn from how you recover from it. By now, the people who make Liquid Nails for Projects owe you a royalty, or at least a few free tubes, for the instructive and efficient use you make of that product. You ALWAYS carefully remind us not to use it beneath certain areas on our trackwork because doing so can gum up certain things that must not be gummed up. Most of the time we listen to your advice. I am, though, among those who have occasionally spread the glue where it definitely shouldn't be. I don't know whether you count yourself among our ranks. Whether you do or not, it would be interesting, and now and then a lifesaver, to see how you might recover from spreading too much glue, or any in the wrong place. Based on your record of accomplishment and ingenuity, I imagine any fixes you've come up with would help the rest of us avoid making an even bigger mess of the things we just screwed up! Thanks again, and all best wishes!

Couple things. I was a carpenter for 30+ years. My solution is always wood, for my track spacing I cut a wood “Story Stick” that I use to keep my 2” spacing. I cut several lengths so I use them to lay straight tangents on 2” centers. 2nd, in my career I never had good luck with liquid nails.I totally agree with your reasons for using it, I just have a bias against it. Im probably wrong. In any case I use white glue. Plain white glue. It’s got a long working time so I can wiggle track where I want it. Ballasting sometimes causes it to listen up so I often have to pin the track while ballasting too. 3rd I make all my marks with a “Ultra Fine Point” sharpie. It’s just a finer line. No big deal. For me I THINK I can get my cuts more accurate. Probably just a perception as opposed to fact. Still watching. Keep up the good work.

Dear Larry, on to the ‘golden spike!’

Very good video, dispell need for hand built switches. Video reaches out to new model railroaders.

Istalling switch tracks in the layout. Istalled a Peco insulfrog switch in my layout , code 80, #8. Good job in the layout.

hello larry its is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks larry friends randy

Good tutorial Larry. Thanks.

Thank you for sharing.👍

I like how you made a single crossover out of two micro-engineering turnouts. I've been eyeing the new Walthers code 83 single crossovers but no one has them in stock, not even Walthers, and there is no information when they'll be available. Will I be able to make a single crossover out of Walthers turnouts? What # turnout should I use? Would it work with a #4 or #5?

So you have Plywood as the base. Half inch foam glued to that. Then the cork roadbed on top of that, to support your track?

Hi Larry, love your channel. I cannot tell you how often I come to it to pick up on all of your tips and how to’s. I have a question and I know you have used similar products. My question is the following. I have a crossover on my HO layout that is using two cobalt IP digital switch machines, how do I go about linking them both together to switch points while using one or possibly 2 momentary push button or buttons. Thank you

I'm not clear on the need to remove the over-centre spring on a turnout. I havent encountered any ready-made or DIY motor which can't easily overcome the spring and leaving it in place seems to me to do no harm?

Cool

Would love to see how you get the rail joiners on without removing any ties.

Larry good tips for everyone hear. I use mainly Atlas turnouts have a couple of peco turnouts During your video I noticed one thing you do not remove any ties from you track pieces so do you just snip off a couple of the spikes so the rail joiner can slide back? I use that method if I need to replace a section of track did not think about that fr installing new track. I always go back and slide in some ties where there might be a large gap of no ties. I just installed 4 more turnouts on my laytout and I am waiting for my DCC Concepts Cobalt IP machines they are on back order .

👍

Thank you, Larry, that was a great tutorial on installing crossovers. I am using the new Walthers code 83 track and turnouts and in the beginning plan to switch the turnouts by hand or with a caboose industries ground throw but down the road I may move to a powered switch machine like a tortoise. You showed that the spring may have to be removed to decrease the wear on the turnout and the switch machine. Can it be removed from the top if the track is already laid and if not, have you ever or could you do a test to see if you think the amount of resistance from the spring really would cause damage if it was left intact?

Why not use the ties that you removed, to repair the switch? Whouldnt that be easier and less likly to be out of gage.

Larry what do you think of the new Walthers crossover code 83, I am planning to use them on my new layout

Since you had already soldered the frog wire and drilled the hole and when installing the turnout, you dropped that yellow wire through the roadbed. Why didn't you do the same with feeders? Instead of waiting till all track is glued down and then have to drill holes and install feeders? And if you have feeders on each section of track, the rail joiners don't have to be soldered. Exception is to solder all rail joiners in the curves. If you don't install feeders on each track, but every other, then you can solder the rail joiners for those. And this way, you can solder those feeders right on the bottom of the rails, making them virtually unseen. And no solder blobs on the sides of the rails.