Thanks again for this. I could tell there was something screwy about #6. It remained springy no matter what I did... even after setting (the first time). Sometimes that means a spool, but not when the pin is set so high. I should have immediately thought of pin-in-pin (and I would have if it was a challenge lock), but I never suspected I would find this in a factory CISA. Remarkable.

Thanks... picking is super relaxing for me... or maybe that's the Irish Whiskey that I'm normally drinking when I pick. Well, in either case, I'm relaxed!

these videos would be relaxing even if he was narrating world war 3 out of my window with his calm voice

It's relaxing for me too, and also kind of satisfying.

It’s kinda like ASMR, but without someone whispering creepily in your ear. It’s just very relaxing to close your eyes and hear LPL’s calming voice saying “1 is loose, 2 is binding, small click out of 2, moving onto 3 which is binding, looks like we’ve fallen into a false set, probably a spool, getting some counter rotation, big click on 3 which should be set...” and so on.

@@connorm3436 going through a bout of heavy insomnia at present... have stumbled on this channel and am finding it exceptionally relaxing going through these old videos

Thanks... this is definitely a step above the other Astrals I have encountered. MTL pin in pin is totally different from this... besides, those patents ran a long time ago, I would imagine.

Me too. I've never seen him goof like that. I'm sure he can just review the footage, though.

This is very fascinating as an American, as an attack against the lock itself in America is quite rare. To my knowledge most attacks here are against the door or door jam, typically with a pry bar.

@@AshtonK1816 I think in most countries the police will tell you that lock picking is rare. Forcing happens on less secure locks but once you get to a decent lock they will just use a pry bar or hammer, or something heavy adjacent. I had my ground floor windows made laminate to ensure no one could smash their way in without making a lot of noise for this reason.

@@AshtonK1816 At least in Britain the doors they use now are quite resistant to prying attacks, locking into the frame at half a dozen points all down the side in a way that you used to see only in security doors. The materials aren't as strong as a security door of course, but it's enough to shift the weakest link from the frame to the lock. At that point snapping the lock and pulling the front half clear out of the door becomes the easiest attack.

I have only seen ONE "Euro lock" in person and NO DOORS with it as I live in Canada and we use "AMERICAN" style NOT global / Euro I assume a lot of the lock is exposed outside the door itself IN America "deadbolts" DO protrude out but have a CONE shaped collar that makes getting a wrench on it impossible OR "mortise"? doors and the LOCK face is flush but the lock body is on the "safe" side not the middle of the door

@@AshtonK1816 My dad, in London, got a really fancy lock (he had some quite expensive artwork). The robbers smashed the street door in with a sledghammer.

Thanks.

Thanks.

It might be that I didn't get the magnet close enough. Honestly, I don't remember if I checked #6.

Darn, been saying it wrong all this time. Thanks.

@@lockpickinglawyer indeed pretty simple: if "C" is followed by I or E, then the sound is "ch", otherwise it is "k". If there is an "S" before the "C", like "SC" and there is I or E after, then the sound is "sh", otherwise the sound is "sk". Well, kind of simple! :-P

@@USUG0 I'm Italian. I think that the most dangerous pronunciation trap for a native English speaker, as regards the "C" sounds in Italian, is that if there is a "H" after the C, the C will become a K even if after there is an I or an E. For example "Che" sounds Ke. "Chi" sounds Ki. That is exactly the opposite as in English.

I wonder how long they have been doing this... more specifically, if it predates Flywheel's pin in pin lock (the first one, to my knowledge).

Agreed... drill this one would be possible, but very frustrating.

but wouldnt it easier to just drill below the pins and let them fall out together with whatever is left of the springs?

not really, it's just steel, it'll only slow them down. Now if there where some tungsten carbide inserts in there, then you have something that just snaps drill bits.

This is well within your skills. It just threw me for a loop at first. The bitting/warding was also challenging.

That was me struggling... J/K. This was obviously not my first pick of this lock. The first time through took a bit longer, but I think it was the bitting more than anything else that stumped me. 6 is hard to reach.

Thanks.

One might think so, but all he would need to do is watch the video to find out which was which.

Thanks.

Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I assumed it was anti-bump or impressioning.

See video 302 for the Avocet ABS. I'm not familiar with the ATK. I'll have to look that one up.

LockPickingLawyer quite a number of ATK on ebay from the u.k.Think they have trap pins which would be up your alley

Thanks. My vice is a cheap Amazon product. It's OK, but not something I would recommend... but also not so bad that I'm itching to replace it. I don't have a recommendation.

AGreed.

Occasionally. Mostly I rake them. The dual shear lines are not very easy to SPP.

LockPickingLawyer I see...if I sent one your way would you do a video showing your technique for raking them? I've been trying to pick it to control but to no avail.

+TheTranq Bill has a good one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJOqerJnsMDOnqM.html&app=desktop

Very nice surprise.

Hard to say. My first dimple locks were the Abus D6 and D10. After that, my next two were MTL Interactive and Junior.

Yes, and I don't know.

Cisa astral is considered really basic security here in italy. No key copy protection, the laminated steel doesnt work to prevent snapping either. As a matter of fact it didnt earn the british 3 star TS007 kitemark. I would go with Evva with no overthinking, even tho they didnt get the kitemark either unless you specally ask to mount the anti snap trap. A yale platinum or avocet do a way better job against snapping but have lower overall quality construction and poor key copy protection.

Interesting information. Here in Greece, Cisa cylinders like the Astral S, AP3S/AP4S, RS3S are VERY common too. Especially in armoured doors. And since I'm constantly in contact with local locksmiths, I have to confirm that the long steel and rubber inserts at the bottom of every Cisa S(Sigillo) cylinder are not as effective as the usual thick solid steel bar that most modular cylinders (like the EVVAs) have. Locksmiths here, usually break the Cisa S cylinder's main brass body and then they twist it until the the outside piece of the cylinder breaks apart. Something that cannot happen with the EVVAs. But the reason I am asking, is because many locksmiths here believe that it is harder to pick, bump or impression a dimple cylinder like the Astral S than a cylinder with a key like the one the EVVA EPS/DPI has. Picking almost "doesn't exist" here. It is impractical unless you have a pick gun and you are trying to open a very simple (not a dimple) lock. Bumping is the most practical and common non-destructive method used here. So if a pick gun(electric or manual) does not work on the EVVA EPS, then I too consider it as a better alternative to the Astral S.

@@menemme would this "basic" be for a home or is this business / security "basic" IN America that is BEYOND ANYTHING a "normal" home would have and would be reserved for business premises where some security is needed American homes are lucky to have spool pins and 6 pin with most being normal pins and 5 pin "SC1" Schlage OR quickset equivalent

The key is symmetrical, so it doesn’t matter which side you 8nsert. So those cuts aren’t to the side, they’re on the opposite (bottom) side. So: passive pins.

A very good chance IMO... impressioning also.

It can be quite vexing to pickers. It makes a pin that is really bound feel springy (i.e., not bound).

@@lockpickinglawyer so basically it feels NOT set when it IS set?

But they do so it must make sense.

These are not for padlocks, these are for doors, and yes, there's one lock for each side. To insert them in a door, you use the key on one side, turn the lever so it is within the profile, shove it into the hole in the door and then secure it with a screw from the side (you can see the hole for it right below the lever). As to why there's locks on both sides: I don't really know. I can only figure that having thumb turns on the inside make it easier to just bypass the lock entirely if there's enough room to fit a specialised tool for that, or - if already using brute force - smashing some glass that may be within the door or near it that wouldn't be big enough to pass through oneself, but big enough to fit an arm to reach it. To be honest, I don't remember many doors having a thumb turn on the inside here - despite working a profession where I see many locks that are used in a variety of use cases (read ranging from private over commercial to industry), except hotel doors that aren't on the high end of security anyway. Regarding locks for padlocks and doors that are only accessible from one side: These do also exist, those are called "Euro Profile half cylinder" instead of "Euro Profile full cylinder" or "Euro Profile cylinder" in short.

@rem45acp I know it's a year later but just in case you're still about... I have that style lock on both my front and rear doors. The lock goes all the way through the door exposing a keyway to the inside and outside of the property. You can't lock yourself out your house by closing the door without your key (since no self latching) and you can prevent someone unlocking from one side by leaving the key inserted on the other.

When the cylinder sticks out a bit, you grab it with a vise grip or similar, and then snap it in half. Then you turn the lock cam with a screwdriver.

OK. So I watched again and the three passive pins are on the side with seven holes, and there are two empty holes before and after the three holes that have passive pins. So what's the point of that? Is it to trick lockpickers into trying to pick the wrong side of the keyway? Does it do something else, if the key is turned the wrong way? Why don't the driver pins drop down into those other holes, and get stuck?

Perhaps... or they will use alternate means of entry. "Weakest link" is the name of the game.

I'm in Construction.... put a screw driver between door and frame and pry and most doors pry apart super easy and you'll just spread the door and frame and let the bolt just come out of the frame hole Deadbolts are long to prevent this All doors windows are installed into a larger opening and shims to fit so that's where you get lots of easy pry movement

It appears to be the Chinese GOSO dimple pick set, probably slightly modified. Would need him to confirm but i'm pretty sure by the looks of the handle. I would love to see a video of his most commonly used dimple picks.

That's would be great

SpooXe... hand-finished GOSO's by a fellow in Germany.

Finding them at the right price, I suppose, is the issue.

It’s better than most.

LockPickingLawyer thanks for answer