That's bad timing. Hope you get it back to it's old self.

Hopefully you could retrieve it and no one got hurt.

@@EFGMC luckily I got it back and no one was hurt, but it did scare the crap out of me when I saw the damn thing flying away!

Less tip bonded inside the hosel will result in a slightly softer shaft. Most people would never be able to tell though. Sometimes this is done to try and hit a certain shaft frequency if someone is using that build mentality. Sometimes it's done when trying to stretch a shaft that would otherwise be a little short. And sometimes the hosel just wasn't cleaned out fully before a reshaft and old epoxy etc was left down in the bottom. You would have to tell me if it changed feel or performance though, assuming you have been playing these irons and didn't just buy them for a reshaft.

I feel cheated, its a recent purchase and I asked for them to be a 1/4 inch longer than standard. So they have inserted the tip a 1/4 less it seems. Only found out as I'm trying different shafts. My next question is what's the minimum insertion depth?

@@waynedunkley2015 This sounds like clubs that were ordered incorrectly at standard and then altered in this unusual way. Minimum depth is probably around 3/4 inch for it to hold, though I would not feel comfortable with under an inch personally.

You can go as high as you want. There are some builders who believe you should not even use a heat gun because it is too slow and can damage the shaft because the heat is on it for too long. I don't believe that, but it shows there are plenty of people using torches to pull graphite with no issues. For me since the epoxy transitions out of a glass like state at around 300F, the heat gun works great. You also don't need to worry about burning paint etc on wood heads. Just keep it focused on the hosel and move it around the hosel for faster even heating.

Needs to be rated for strength over 2,000 psi.

What head are you trying to epoxy it to? Assuming you have cleaned the tip enough to remove all the old epoxy, the shaft should be good to go. After you rough up the tip, you might try just a little acetone on a paper towel quickly wiped over the prepped area to remove any residue (either dust type from prep, or any other type). Just be careful not to wipe the painted finished areas of the shaft as you will remove the paint. I always wipe the hosels of heads or adapters with a Q tip and acetone to remove any last bits of residue. New adapters can often have some machining oil residue that can compromise the epoxy bond.

That was a weight installed to get a certain total weight and balance. I cleaned it up and reused it so the club would play the same as before. You don't have to use it, but the weight would be lighter if left off. Thanks for watching.

How did you reuse it? Is it epoxied into the hole at the very base of the shaft thus plugging up the vent?

Make sure it's not just the ferrule moving up. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p5-jebljqbC2ZYU.htmlsi=gkJmNnFSWp0gzMWr

Have you left your clubs in a hot car truck maybe. Some epoxy's transition temp is pretty low and can become pliable at relatively low temp. It could have come loose and then cooled again back to solid. Guessing here but it can happen. Worst case, might need to reinstall the shaft.

@@EFGMC Thanks a ton for the response. Certainly possible out here in the desert. Will take a look at your other vids on heating the ferule a bit to see if I can move it. Otherwise, I'll look at your other videos on removing and installing a club head from a graphite shaft....or maybe just head to the shop. :) Thanks for all your great content!

As long as the lap shear strength is over 1500, should be good.

Think that was the Tour Issue Iron Build video.

What brand is it? Callaway, Ping, and PXG all can have a wide hosel by design. PXG can use a special collared ferrule and spacer you can buy. Callaway and Ping have another method I prefer. Watch this video to see the fiberglass tape method. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7mUqNeFmrS5ZGQ.html

@@EFGMC It is a ping g15 9 iron. I am using the shaft that came out of it, but dont understand why there is so much play in it. I just checked it after putting epoxy in about 10 hours ago and it seems to be firm, but wow, there was so much play, I was wondering how in the world do you hold the head in place to get it lined up with the grip? Shouldn't it be snug when I put the shaft in all the way?

@@scotthucks7966 That is where the fiberglass tape comes in. Acts as a spacer and then just hardens inside the epoxy to a single unit.

Usually I add 1 swing weight point (2g) to the dry SW measurement I take before assembly. That covers both the epoxy and the ferrule that I don't use at the dry fit stage.

@@EFGMC thank you

If there is any doubt, I always recommend pulling the head and re-epoxy it. Last thing you want is a flying head!

What are the tip diameters of the two pieces. I believe the rescue is .370 and the R7 shaft is .350. If that's the case, are you using a shim of some sort? You will need one. I have never heard of using sugar in epoxy. Seems like a bad idea. Shafting beads are good but only meant to fill small spaces. Don't use over 5% beads per volume epoxy. That 3M epoxy is good stuff. That should not be the issue unless it's a bad batch but sounds like you have used with other clubs without issue.

@@EFGMC Yeah Sugar lol read it somwhere it does work not failed yet for me(YET) dont know if i really need to use it suppose extra bit of confidence knowing its kinda binded with something suppose still learning, yeah had that thought at one point on my second attempt that it just does not grip it enough never tried building any with a shim never needed to as most fits were pretty neat fits,dont know the diameters off hand of the shaft and the golf head that is an idea i will check the diameters with my calipers see what the difference is.Will go buy some shimms from ebay from ebay prob need them in the future thanks again

@@kimbo172 Brass shims come in handy all the time when doing club work, so I would definitely recommend picking some up.

@@EFGMC yeah bought a pack of 5 and some glass starting beads yeah its good making and remaking clubs cheers again

I use Golfworks epoxy but most golf specific epoxies will work fine. 3M also makes good ones but they are far more expensive and not really sure what you get for the money.

Is it a collared ferrule or not. Can't recall if Mavriks have a collar. If no collar, it is fine. Would probably just say get some epoxy of some kind or even super glue and slide it back into place and tack it. If it has a collar, it should still be fine but I would start by trying to twist the head on the shaft and make sure everything is tight still. Should be fine to use if tight. Who is fixing it? Sounds like they are just pushing it back down but not using an adhesive to hold it there. Again I would get some epoxy or glue and put it on the shaft in the gap between the hosel and ferrule and then press the ferrule back into place. Or at the very least, find someone else to do the repair work since it doesn't sound like it's been done right so far.

You are saying the hosels are too large or the shafts are too large?

A hair dryer will get the ferrule loose but probably won't soften the epoxy enough. Ideally you need the epoxy to get over 250F to transform into the softer rubber state from a glass like state. This is not only important for removing the head, but also for cleaning out that old epoxy before applying new.

Chris, the adapter will be reversed as far as the loft/face angle goes. Increasing loft on the hosel will lower it and vise versa. Lie angle won't change.

@@EFGMC thanks for that AJ, very much appreciated. Just to be certain, so when it comes to Lie nothing changes. If I put on the Draw setting it stays in the Draw position doesn't reverse? Again thanks A.J.

@@chriscolaidis3393 Chris, the lie angle setting would not change b/c it moves in the 12 o clock, 6 o clock plane. The loft or face angle (ie draw, fade, etc.) moves in the 9 o clock 3 o clock plane and that is the one that will be reversed on the LH head. If you haven't watched my adjustable hosel video, I would watch that. Really gives the best visuals on the web of what actually is happening. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qrGAjJhiytypmGQ.html

@@EFGMC Thanks again, great info, all the best, I am a subscrber Melbourne Australia

@@chriscolaidis3393 Awesome. Thanks for the support!

Where did it break?

@@EFGMC it broke at the connector part. The actual driver head has no damage it’s just the connector which is not a apart of the driver. I would think I can just replace the shaft

@@Sportsguy-rl8wj If the shaft just came out of the adapter/hosel then it can be repaired. If the shaft is broken off inside the hosel, then you will need a new shaft.

@@EFGMC ya the shaft broke off in the hosel. It’s no worry. I can get a new shaft. I was worried that my driver couldn’t get fixed.

@@Sportsguy-rl8wj Worst case, just need to drill it out and install new shaft.

Get a wet paper towel or similar and wrap the ferrule with it. Then focus the heat at the bottom of the hosel away from the ferrule and keep trying to twist the head off after every 10-20 seconds of heating depending on if you use a torch or heat gun. Of course if you are working with graphite shafts, those ferrules are toast because you need the shaft puller to remove the shafts for reuse.

@@EFGMC thanks for the help I will try that. It's a steel shaft in a set of irons. For some reason the ferrules have slid up and there's a gap...should I be removing the club head to slid the ferrules down?

@@steve.g1582 If you are sure it's the ferrule, which it most likely is, then you don't need to do anything with the head, just reset the ferrule. I always first just try and twist the head and make sure it is still tight. If the ferrules are sliding up but not moving easily enough to slide them back, first option is to run the ferrule under hot tap water for 30s or so. Heating the plastic a little will usually allow you to move them without worry of melting or deforming. If you have some pliers with rubber pads over the jaws, those can be useful to help slide them back without damage. Once you can get them moving, just put a little epoxy or even super glue for this repair (only time you should use super glue!) in that space and press them back together. Just make sure if you used hot water, the club is dry before glueing.

@@EFGMC alright thanks alot for your help I'll try it tonight

Yes, you can apply the same methods.

You should be able to get a replacement screw for the head. Getting the part out of the head is simple. Just push it through using a pen or screwdriver. It's usually just held there with a small plastic or rubber washer. The broken screw in the adapter will be trickier. You can drill a small hole in it and use a screw extractor to get it out. Other option is to buy a new adapter and swap the shaft out. I would try and contact the OEM first and see if they will replace the screw and or the adapter. Heck, they might replace the entire club depending on who it is and how old.

@@EFGMC thank you sir yea it's Nike so prolly out of luck but thanks for the info imma try it

@@EFGMC thx buddy got screw outta driver head ...ordered new adapter tip off eBay...still going to try to drill it out just wanted to say thank you just about tossed them out till you gave me direction thx again sir

@@calvingraham8302 No problem. Happy it helped.

There are other options that will hold clubs together, the point of golf epoxy is that it can take impact forces and breaks down at lower temps. Some products you will have a hard time ever getting apart need be.

I did wonder if maybe it was too permanent a joint. If 550* is not too high JB Weld Cold Weld maybe the ticket because of price and availability.

No

Good point. I did it, just didn't say it. Always want your logos etc or grips and shafts where you want them before leaving to dry.

I've got a new Q/A series I am starting tomorrow. This question is going to be top of the list!

May need torch, or heat and then hit with polymer mallet or similar while the shaft is in a vise to try and break it loose.

It's on the Mobile Clubmaker page under the "about" tab. Don't like to post it in comments for fear of bots etc.

Clicked on “About” section and couldn’t see anything. Just email me when you get time frankhuber816@gmail.com

Sorry I’m a moron frankhuber816@yahoo.com

@@frankhuber4714 Just emailed