Not easy at all, and once again a big thank you as I will be following you and hoping for less rust and stuck bolts

Use proper penetrating oil instead of wd 40. It’s just a water displacer

Be careful with the handbrake cables, they are not available as new parts. Use a pipe clamp to compress the fingers. If you're tempted to split the rear hubs to remove and refurbish the brake backplates (Lotusbits do occasionally have replated ones), then be aware that the crush tubes for the rear bearings are NLA. Lotusbits sell a bearing kit with a shim to enable a second use of the crush tube, but you'll still need to find someone who can set up the bearing preload. It's basically the same job as setting up a differential pinion. Put a cheap socket over the head of the rear bridge bolt and use a stout G-clamp to put as much pressure on the bolt as you can. Use the strongest heat source you can. MAPP gas at a minimum and OxyAcetlene if available to heat the cross sleeve on the bridge. You need to create as much temperature difference between the sleeve and the bolt (to expand the sleeve relative to the bolt), not just get both hot. If it comes down to it, a used bridge isn't all that expensive.