Thanks for the video! After watching it, we took two of these transmissions apart, and replaced their bearings. Part number 6006-2RS 1(2 Rubber Seals) for our application. They are only press fitted. We do not believe they ever had any adhesive. They are certainly NOT "welded" except by rust You can DIY by first cleaning and sanding the shaft above the bearing. Once its CLEAN, use a light oil, like 3 in 1 (WD-40 is a rust inhibitor) Walking first the flange, followed by the bearing via small hammer blows with a small flat chisel or large screwdriver; keep rotating the shaft so as to drive the flange and or bearing as straight as possible to avoid binding. Don't be afraid to hit it, after all if you don't succeed it's going to the recycle center! Keep in mind, any dirt / rust will keep you from extracting the bearing and flange. You only need to save and reuse the flat metal flange. So, feel free to cut the old bearing off with a grinder, Dremel or even a hacksaw. As simple as the construction of this junk seems, make sure you photograph the position of the flange/bearing, so as to insert the new bearing down to the correct position. Also make sure to Mark how low on the shaft it seats. An easy way to drive the new bearing / flange straight, is to get a scrap piece of steel tubing only slightly larger than the shaft diameter, and use it, and your trusty hammer to drive the new bearing, and the flange into position. Easy! Even if you buy a piece of tubing at i.e. the Depot, it's still cheaper than a new transmission. Good Luck! The only parts not repairable are the plastic planetary gears in the plastic case, as I could not find replacements. If anyone can find these parts, please let us know. We did service them by replacing the oil in the cup, and resealing with silicone gasket maker.

Searched everywhere to find a video of exactly what you explained. Thank you.

You did this right, what a great breakdown and insight on typical manufacturing practice - this saves a lot of heart rending wishful thinking on repair and replacement of the parts. Whew!!! what a bunch of effort you saved - yes I blame the machine engineers and cheers to you for doing this - great video.

Thank you. You saved me from thinking I could fix it. Had a customer bring in the identical machine. It was leaking water from the tub seal. Unfortunately she let it go for a long time. That was the original complaint. When I ran the machine prior to tear down, the transmission was making a racket. When I pulled the agitator off, I noticed side to side, up and down movement. When I flipped it over to remove the transmission I wanted to cry. The screws were frozen on the shifter, the connections were all full of green and brown corrosion. I finally got the trans out and turned the shaft. It was like it was jumping gears. Very sad how poorly this stuff is made. Needless to say, she gave me the machine for parts because the cost was prohibitive. Thanks again for a great presentation. Keep them coming.

Thank you for this video!! Answered questions no one else has addressed.

Guitar man, great video. Exactly what I needed to see. Cheers.

Glad your back. Keep uploading videos sir.

It does work to remove the bearing on the shaft. There is a coupler pressed on the shaft after the bearing. It take a lot of hammering but it works. I did it today.

Thank you for the video. It helped alot.

Just took apart my transmission as per this video. The stainless steel collar for the seal on mine came off with abit of light hammering. I pop riveted the transmission back together with new bearings and it seems to be functioning.

Thanks dude! I've been wanting to open one of those up. I figured the same on those bearings. I onlybdo bearing and seal kits on Speed Queen. Also, SQ transmissions are very much rebuildable but the gear oil is some nasty stuff. I can bring almost any classic too load Whirlpool direct drive washer back to life. Their tub seal is still like five bucks lol. Most people go through washer dryer phases. The government told everyone to go green with HE and trade in their water wasting machines. So many people went to frontloaders. But, they get moldy, don't clean well and take over an hour to wash a load. I meet so many people that are happy to get rid of front loaders, GE, Samsung, LG, Bosch and other disposable junk for a classic Whirlpool top loader.

Nice video good complete tear down

As others have said, that collar is press fit only, so once the rust is cleaned off, pop the shaft in the deep feezer overnight. In the morning, fire up the propane torch and quickly heat the collar up only, while tapping it down with a punch or screwdriver. I only had the bearing race left on the shaft, so tapping on it with the round side of a mechanics hammer got it off in no time!

Thanks for saving me time and money! Great video! Kinda expected it! Throw away society anymore. thanks brother!

I just did the top bearing in one of these today. Took a bit of finesse to get it off and save the stainless steel seal sleeve above the bearing. 6006RS bearing. I need to make a video of this but there are some tricks that make it easier. Never going to buy another of these complete units at $80 to $200 again!

I like a person that's honest keep this and all your videos

Good video on the internals of the gearbox. Never seen the inside broken down like that before and i have been working on these since they came out in 2010. They are 5 year machines but very easy to work on. The part site you showed was not listing the real part number. I don't like any site that gives a ap number. No Manufacturer uses a part number that starts with AP. Almost all whirlpool parts start with W

You have to sand the shaft and remove the race and the bearing together from the long side. Where the bearing sits is hatched and can't go futher down the shaft when replacing. Some machine shops have a tall bearing press that can take it out, I on the other hand put the shaft loosely in a vice and put a block of wood on the other side of the shaft and tap out the bearing and race. To replace, tap the bearing and then the race with a pipe slightly bigger than the shaft. Should be noted though that what can cause the bearing to go bad in the first place is a leaking tub seal, which should be replaced as well.

Very usefull, thanks for the video blessings from Guatemala take care.

Honestly the best video I’ve seen about this. THANK YOU SO MUCH from just an average dad trying to fix his washer so his wife will continue to do his laundry.

The 🐐 with all the need to know information

I replaced the upper bearing about 2 years ago. The tranny I did was from a model washer that had a wash plate instead of an agitator so the transmission output shaft was shorter than the one in this video, so I was able to pull the bearing using a long jaw puller I had. Here are some key points if you are looking to do this job. 1. You MUST disassemble the gear box and take out the solid agitator shaft. If you try to pull the upper bearing off with a puller, with the gear box fully assembled, the puller will drive the agitator shaft down an possibly right through the bottom of the plastic gear box housing. It will then be time to punch out and go home..lol 2. Once you have done step 1, you MUST put a mark on the outer, hollow shaft, to mark where the bottom of the bearing is located so that you can place the new bearing in the same spot on the shaft. There is no "stop" on the shaft so you won't know where to place the new bearing unless you mark the shaft. I used a hacksaw blade to score a light mark below the bearing. 3.You MUST remove all the rust and any other imperfections on the shaft, so that nothing will restrict the removal of the old bearing when you pull it off. 4. The sleeve he is pointing to here 6:12 , often has a groove worn into it by the tub seal. The seal then leaks water into the bearing. That is the reason you are here. If your sleeve has no groove, consider yourself lucky and clean the sleeve with some Scotch Brite. If your sleeve has a groove worn into it then don't even think about sanding the groove out. You will sand off so much of the sleeve metal that the new seal will not have a tight fit, not to mention that the sanding and polishing process would have to be done perfectly or you will have a leak again in no time. Just Clean the sleeve with Scotch Brite and count on having another leak again down the road 5. When you pull the old bearing off the shaft, the sleeve above it will come along also. That brings up the question of how did I reinstall the sleeve. 6. After I installed the new bearing, I heated the sleeve with a torch. That expanded the sleeve and it slid onto the shaft easily. Once it cooled, it shrunk to a very tight fit. 7. I used 1/4 inch aluminum blind rivets from harbor freight to put the 2 outer halves of the transmission housing back together. So when you drill out the original solid rivets use a 1/4 inch drill bit, or a bit size equal to whatever size screws you will be using, if you don't use rivets. It's critical that the 2 halves line up as they originally did so use common sense before you haphazardly start drilling out the original rivets. Finally, If you don't have a puller with jaws long enough to pull the old bearing off, you could use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut the old bearing off. The sleeve above the bearing will make that a little tricky. To prevent cutting into the sleeve I would try to heat the sleeve and remove it, before cutting the bearing. Again , make sure you remove any rust on the shaft that will prevent the sleeve from coming off. PS- After drilling out the rivets on the housing, you will find it very difficult, if not impossible , to separate the upper housing half from the bearing. I heated the lip on the housing then used 2 screw drivers, 180 degrees apart on the housing , to pry the two housing halves apart. The lower bearing replacement should be easily accomplished using the info I just provided for the upper bearing so I won't go into that. This post is long enough already. I've never seen the lower bearing go bad btw. GOOD LUCK!!

Thank you very much dude i am also trying to repair my washer transmission, seems the bearing is going bad and locking up will update if i get any progress.. :-) and that's why we need to support the right to repair....

Dude this is an awesome video! I'm sure it can be figured out. I have a few ideas on how to repair it

Thanks for the video, shows what I want to see. My question is why my shaft that is connected to the wash plate comes off, it's so loose I can pull the wash plate and the shaft at once. Is there a way of fixing it?? Thanks again

Good day 😊 i am a macgyver i madr it happend and repaired my trasmission im sry dont have photos and vids to show but its my job atm and i love it there is nothing that i ever turn down for repairs atm im doing direct drive tranny 😊 trinidad its to expensive to buy parts and stuff .....❤

I was so pissed when i figured out this tranny was not serviceable. Guess i have to buy the tranny and return the bearing kit. Thanks for the video!

I have been able to successfully replace this bearing about 10 times in different machines. It is a pain but it can be done. Also the metal sleeve above the top bearing is removable which you have to slide that up the shaft in order to replace the top bearing. Usually the top bearing is the only one worn out.

I managed to replacevthat top bearing on the shaft. Cut the welding and removed the flange on the bottom. Removed old bearing, fitted new bearing. Lined shaft and flange in the lathe and rewelded. Riveted housing back together. Probably not worth it if you don't have access to a lathe.

Thank you for all your videos. Very informative. Going to give rehabbing washers and dryers, part time, a go, picked up my first dryer this morning. Ever try to rebuild a LG transmission? Thanks again!

Hi, how did you get the upper bearing shaft combo disconnect from the case? I have removed the seal but the shaft is still stuck to the case.

Great video! Thank you! I came here looking for an answer to the super loud scream/ screech that my washer made when I ran the Auto-diagnostic mode. It went through every step fine, but when it got the the wash-spin mode it made the loudest grinding scream I have ever heard. then it started spinning. I figure it's the clutch mechanism not engaging properly, but I also wonder if it's a broken gear in the gear box. (Your video gives me an idea of what is in the gear box by the way. which is super helpful.) any insight would be great! I appreciate your time!

Any recommendations on where to buy a transmission either new or rebuilt

Thank you so much for your information. I have that exact transmission and the shaft bearing is totally loose and wobbly. Now I know I have to get a new transmission instead of trying to replace the bearing.

Hi, Just starting Watching your Videos which are very informative for someone like me that is going to try to Repair Machines in my area of Massachusetts,, I was just thinking in all those Dryers/Washers that Home Depot ,Lowes ect Sell each day and someone has to Service there Appliance when they break $$$$$ You are doing a Great Service with showing us what you learned !!! Should i get a small Trailer i can hook up to my truck to pick up unwanted free broken machines ? I am very Handy and know how to use a Multi Meter and will give this a Shot!!! Just can you give me idea of what my Service Call Should be ? I called a Service Company in the Boston,Ma area and they say they charge $150 Service Call to work on High End Appliances !!! Wow .. God Bless and keep these. great Videos Coming !!!! Joe

I have a GE Model # GJXR2G80W washer that has a loud clunk when it switches in and out of spin cycle. Is this a transmission issue?

You made me determined...am the son of a silver star marine from vietnam.....no such thing as no...adapt and overcome... Im on # 4 rebuild lol.

I was going to try the same operation, but seeing that the gear set is plastic, I believe that bad bearings might very well ruin the gears too.

You gave bottom bearing number how about top bearing number?

This is infuriating. It would cost them 1 more dollar to make this serviceable, probably not even that. It just makes you appreciate a nice old direct-drive machine.

At 6:11 showing the bottom of the bearing and what looks like the top of the piece it looks like it is pressed down to, is a thumbnail like groove. I wonder if you could clean the rust off the shaft then use a straight edge tool to separate the bearing from that piece then work it off. I have a few that need bearings. Don’t think I am going to go through that.

I guess I'll be replacing the seals & bearings. I don't have the cash to buy a new one so I've been keeping this one running by watching KZfaq videos 😂 I've replaced actuator a while back & the drain pump a few days ago. It didn't want to drain and was leaking I thought it was drain pump issue but it's still leaking so now I'm guessing the leak is the seal and it's been making a sound so I might as well replace the bearings as well. Can't lie tho this looks a bit intimidating. I really hope mine is welded on it's a diff one so let's hope.

Yeah this is an easy fix if you have the time patience, knowledge and tools to do it.

How’s it going my friend. Great demonstration. My customers was making noise & leaking water from Tranx. Must be seals right. Could you show something on that. Or do you have a video on it already? Thanks 😊

These washer is a VMW ( Vertical Modular Washer) system. I call it JUNK!

Do you have any part number(s) for those transmissions? From there we could arrive at a cost. From there, might it be cost effective to repair with upgraded bearings and replace oil with grease. When I need a transmission, I may be willing to pay more for an upgraded rebuilt one.

I have a love / hate relationship with these washers. I love them because they make me lots of money because people are always having trouble with them but I hate them because I feel guilty a lot of times selling them to people who don't have much money. I know they will break down in 12-48 months and they will need to scrape up the money AGAIN to buy a washer. On the other hand, if they are going to buy a set, it might as well be from me because no one sells better sets than I do..... but I do hate it because they make such bad products these days.

Is 400 to much for a red Kenmore Elite dryer to sell. I’m fixing them easy it’s the selling that’s killing me

Can you do a video of your recommended machines?

What was the part number for the one that’s stuck on that shaft ??

wheres the Link to parts place?????

It’s a kenmore. Is whirlpool Ultimate II also built like this?

What kind of oil can i use to replace the planetary gears?

May I present solution to the bearing problem? First know that it is the top bearing that goes out and not the bottom, 99% of the time, the one you can't get it because of that sleeve above it. It is that bearing that goes bad as it is right under the rubber seal. So now that is clear. Okay second, most of these so called gear boxes don't have them holes you drove the nut driver through. But that is not big deal, you drill a couple of hole with a drill bit. That solves that. Just need 2 hole or even one hole is good enough. Okay I will start from where you lift off. Clean off the rust with a sand paper, clean it good, on that metal tube that the bearing and the bearing sleeve is on it. Then just spray some lubricant on the tube. Place the bearing above the jaw of a vise or whatever and hit the top of the metal tube with a hammer by placing a 2x4 in between. The race/sleave and the bearing will come out, no problem. The sleeve is not welded or glues or anything. It is pressed in at its top edge. If you look close you can see it. I have repaired at least dozen of these. Clean the housing and install the new bearing ( 30x55x13mm, you can get them anywhere). Pounce the bearing until it seats. It will seat half way up, It won't go all the way to the top, so don't dry it. Here is the seal: (Washing machine tub seal w10324647 w10006371 Ap4567772) Now comes the creative part. How are you going to install the sleeve and where would you get them? Aha. Ready? They are 1 1/4" diameter, brass or some sort of rust resistent metal. So this is what you do. You go the plumbing joint and buy a chrom pipe extension. They are located at the sink drain section. They are exact same size and the exact right wall thickness and no rest. One extension is enough pipe to repair 5-10 usage. You cut it to size, about 1 1/4 long. Before you feed it in place, clean where it goes with rubber alcohol or so and put crazy super glue there. feed the new cut pip in place there and leave it for about an hour. It won't go no where.Make sure the pip is long enough but not too long (otherwise it will interfere with the basket) because the rubber seal goes around that sleeve. Your transmission will purr like a kittten. Cheers.

Absalutly no reason to drill the 4 holes. Dont need to bend the big tang iether....I do the electric ones now too Lol.

I SUGGEST TO RE-GREASE ALL BEARING WITH MOLY GREASE or Lucas red and tacky EVEN NEW ONES UNLESS YOU BUY A GOOD BRAND SUCK AS SKF KOYO . THE CHINA BEARING NEED BETTER GREASE AS THEY USE CLEAR JUNK IN THEM PARDON CAPS BUTTON STUCK ON

Not hard if you have the right tools. Sand paper to clean the rust. Torch to heat up the bearing to expand it. And a press to press it out the bearing. Not something everyone has in there arsenal.

You should message me because I had about the same problem but what I did I got a torch and heat it up then pound it out and it didn’t work for me I can show you some pictures if you send me a link

Looks like a can of worms. I'm going to save myself the headache and just buy the whole part

Couldn’t get it off because it was too snuggly !!!!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

How to remove the bearing and the race above it. Both same principle. Use a dremel with a cut off blade. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eK99p5OIrNPbqIU.html

Oddball question: why was your shop sooo expensive to rent ?? $8,000.00/month sounds crazy.

400 to much

You got scared of a little rust and gave up???

Like and a comment :)