Thanks for commenting. I really want to hear alternate opinions. At the end of the day the wood does not care what cuts it, as long as you can achieve a great surface.

Absolutely. I love my vintage 1921 Bedrock Jack, but nothing beats the Lee Valley low-angle Jack for the reasons you said above. I find it to be very user friendly, not nearly as temperamental as a traditional plane, and easy to adjust for multiple uses by switching out the blade with a higher primary angle and/or closing the mouth. And it is an excellent plane for shooting.

I just bought veritaas no 62, this thing is extraordinary in many ways but I couldn't manage to smooth complex grain surface (with 50 degree PM11 blade +12 degree = 62 degree cuttig angle) as I do in my cheap jack plane. I think it's about chipbreaker, keeping cutting angle at 45 but breaking the chip just after 0,1-0,2mm in contrast with just increasing the cutting angle as done in no 62. And in veritas no 62 lever cap is T-shaped, this gives your 4 fingers something to grab on and works perfect in endgrain cutting (shooting board).

@@e139439, I never had to go beyond 38 degrees. May I know what wood species you are dealing with?

@@ionut5316 Pine mostly, also beech but most problematic one for me is construction grade pine

Thanks for giving us info on that plane. Is your Stanley 5 a bedrock or bailey style?

the 62 is amazing and blows my WR jack out of the water in performance, ease of use, edge retention, etc. just my experience. its the best plane ive ever purchased, out of stanley wood river lie nielson and veritas, the 62 beats them all for me. (I own planes fron all of these companies.)

@@justinsane332 I wonder how you'd rate the LN #62 vs the WR #62. The LN #62 was my second high end plane after the LN low angle block plane.

I just think there is a lot of mis-info on LA vs Standard angle planes out there, and wanted to get my opinion out there.

Thanks for watching and commenting

Almost like a conspiracy isn't it?

Thanks. keep watching and commenting and i will keep making videos

Hi Michael....hows your woodworking been since the class?

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, retired all my dovetail jigs and strictly hand cut now thanks to you, addicted to veneering as I just can't find that kind of amazing wood otherwise.

ONLY if you buy Wood River . Planes . There's a whole world out there beyond Chinese made planes that are NOT much cheaper than han Premium planes

I agree with you , the 5-1/2 is my go to general purpose plane. Sure the 62 could be a good scrub plane.

In my opinion, there is so much mis-info out there about the 62, I wanted to put out what I thought.

Its definitely one of the important ones. Thanks for watching

Yes I should have made this a long time ago

I have the same experience - I only blame Rob for having to buy a 5 1/2... He will have to take that up with my wife😂😂

Sorry I didn't get this out sooner for you. Make sure you sign up for my free monthly newsletter, the link is in the video description

@@RobCosmanWoodworking No worries, Rob. You also mentioned all these points in other videos, just not as condense and focus. Already signed up for the newsletter couple months ago.

LOL not on a veritas it aint

@@alanj822 Sure, I have a Veritas block plane and I like the lateral adjustment on that thing and I was looking at their low angle too because they are basically using the same control, but have you had trouble planing and advancing the blade at the same time (without taking you hand off the tote)? It seems to me that it can mess up the blade lateral setting very easily even if you can reach the adjuster with your index finger.

Its Canadian you know! Eh?

You are going to love the 5-1/2. A great plane.

You'll have to let me know how the Clifton is, i've been looking at them myself. Though i'm intrigued as to why getting it from Germany. As far as i'm aware they're made in Sheffield, UK. Not sure what laws are in Germany, but planes from UK have to be a certain level of flatness. It's why Luban planes for UK are only available from UK suppliers as they adjust the hand planes to be within the legal requirement (chinese online stores don't allow shipping to UK for that reason). At end of day though, flatness can be achieved with a little bit of elbow grease.

@@soul146 Hi Nick, The Clifton is amazing, the build quality, the mechanical parts, the finish, the weight, the quality of the steel in the blade, top marks. I have a Lie Nielsen block plane and scraping plane, and they are top class also. I got a Juuma No 7 a few months ago to replace my old Stanley, and it’s very good, it doesn’t get the same use a Jack, so I didn’t want to spend the money for a Clifton. Every element of the Clifton is just a bit better than the Juuma. Is it worth the extra money? It is to me, I have a big smile every time I use it. I got it from Fine Tools in Germany because I live in Ireland, with the UK not in the EU it’s cheaper than buying it from England, and they only charged me €12 shipping.

@@garethbaker3429 I found out yesterday i'm owed backdated holiday pay, soooo thats now been spent on a Clifton too aha. Let's raise our Cliftons together, but i may be too scared to clink them aha

Thanks for the commenting. I do OK with my 5-1/2 and after 30 years of professional woodworking i am sticking to my 5-1/2.

I’ve been using the veritas low angle jack for the past 3 years and I immediately understood the pain when Rob tried to push it through the difficult Maple. If you have knots in the wood, this plane will get hung up on them no matter how shallow you try to cut. And the balance is very difficult to master, you almost have to throw the plane over the wood. I also really dislike the side to side adjustment. It takes a really long time to get the blade centered and get even shavings. I think I have given up at this point trying to master this plane. Will get a 5-1/2 and see if that suits me better.

Agree with Kashman. I enjoy and love using my Veritas LA jack plane with the PM-V11 blade. It cuts through anything, but you just gotta know how to get that powdered metal alloy steel blade sharp, I think that's where some people are failing and therefore having a not so great experience with it.

IMO... LV Veritas L/A B/U at just under 6 lbs with PM- V11 is Superior!! Great for shooting end grain. There are alot of variables and personal preference that influence ones choice but it's hard to beat LVs.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking He didn't say to change your entire career around a new tool, just to try it as you have here. Maybe its because Veritas doesn't pay you like Woodriver probably does (at the very least you have a vested interest in the brand).

Mine too!!!!!

Charlie, I'm considering a Veritas Jack for a shooting board. I'm familiar with Veritas tools and their quality and don't mind spending the money .... I'm retired and no longer chase women so I have bucks in the bank. I have the Veritas router plane and prefer it to the Stanley plane I inherited from my Grandfather so I trust their tools and the quality built in to those tools.... the question is would you use this plane on a shooting board? Mark

@@markbell335 The Veritas low angle jack was my first premium plane, and I think it's great. It's certainly a decent choice for a shooting board. Really, it's a decent choice for almost any planing job, but probably not the *best* choice for any of them. I have since bought a Lie-Nielsen 4 1/2 and am saving for a 7. Eventually, I'll get a 5 1/2, but having the 62 1/2 makes it a lot easier to be patient.

Your thinking is correct. I just released a video

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks 👍 I think its the way to go

tahnk dich zum zuschauen und kommentieren. Ich wünschte, ich könnte hier in Kanada Brtotchin bekommen

Thanks for watching and commenting

Yup, I can see how that would be a good use. I just use the scrub plane, same idea

Can you get a toothed blade for the wood river?

Its like politics!!! No one wants to have a friendly discussion. I don't like the Norris style adjustment system, in fact I find I can do a finer adjustment with a hammer verses a Norris style adjuster. Foe me weight and ease of use on the shooting board are the deciding factors.

Sounds like a mating issue between the blade and chipbreaker

Lots of folks do love their 62. A sharp blade is the key regardless of which plane you use. But i do prefer the 5-1/2

You might want to check out Veritas's custom line of bench planes as they have an adjustable mouth.

The old Stanleys perform tons better with a modern blade. Good call

That's my setup too. Bedrock 605 1/2 with hock iron / breaker. Just sails through the end grain!

I am working on a detachable and comfortable handle to solve that problem. Similar to one Alan Peters used.

Not really. COL Luther took over production of the videos and that's the source of all the changes you see. We did decide what playlist subjects we wanted (and there are a lot) and we decided to focus on one subject, deep dive videos, to create what we hope will become a "GO TO" video library of woodworking knowledge. We welcome your ideas on this.

Probably not since I dont use that. I prefer to stick to videos of the stuff I use and really know about.

#6 is my second favorite plane after the 5-1/2.

Glad you enjoyed it. Have yoi signed up for our free newsletter yet? link is in the description.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I signed up for newsletter

Sharpening is the KEY. Its the most important skill for a hand tool woodworker. Since you have a #6 I would not get the 5-1/2. I prefer the 5-1/2 over the 6 but the #6 is a close second.

The 62 throat adjustment is slightly easier than a bedrock style plane. Certainly tons rasier than a Bailey style plane. However i disagree that you need some high leveel of skill to loosed two screws and turn a third screw to adjust a Bedrock style frog.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Sure - and I didn't mean to intimate that a high level of skill is needed for the screws - my thinking was knowing where to position the frog to get that 'just right' shaving is something that comes with experience (though it's surely not rocket science). And your point about the Bailey style is well taken - I spent a good bit of time getting my Bailey setup correctly!

Well they are a ton of magazine writes and website that tell beginners to get them. It really baffles me.

Haha that thing is crying

Do you use a hot dog on your 62 when shooting with it?

I think that's why they've gotten popular. They'll give you fine results with less thinking. I think that the new breed of hybrid users understand bevel ups better than bed angles and beginners frequently don't get their lateral adjustments right anyway which is the one area where bevel up planes are absolutely atrocious. The lack of chipbreaker I think also helps beginners since chipbreaker clogs are common when starting out and not knowing how a properly fit chipbreaker looks and beginners always set them too far back causing issues. For me, a 62 is a plane for a DIYer and Bailey/Bedrock patterns are for craftsmen.

It was soooo hard to remain objective, but I really tried.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yes, indeed good effort! Owning both LA and bedrock style planes (loving both kinds by the way) i would still select bedrock style over LA _if_ I were to choose from Woodriver. The no.62 from Woodriver seems so primitive in terms of adjustability and easy of use compared to the no.5 1/2 (have You considered that Your own input into the design might influence the outcome). Still i use no.62 (Dictum) over no.6 (Record) on my shooting board, but guess that is down to what I am used to (yes, i have all "nice-to-have" adddons for comfy grip). I also have three blades with my no.62: 25 and a 54 degree straight ground and a 27 degree rounded blade for general dimensioning (after David Charlesworth). Again props for objective comparition.

You sound like me, collect all the planes. The 62 just does not feel right and I have not seen it perform as well as a 5-1/2 with the students who come to my workshop

Hi, you might be subscibed to the Wood By Wright channel, and his latest video is an in-depth comparison between Standard High angle bevel-down planes, and Low Angle bevel-up planes. He argues that the Low Angle Bevel-up does 80% of what the Standard High Angle Bevel-down does, but is easier to set up then use, and its easier for beginners to get up to speed. It's good for roughing out and edge work, but it excels at dealing with endgrain. Where it is less successful is in smoothing figured wood. Where the grain changes direction, you might suffer tearout because it lacks a chip breaker. A Standard high angle bevel down plane can do every task, including figured wood, but needs careful setup to handle end grain. So you can start woodworking with either one. It just a descision to whether you start learning to drive with a stick shift, or an automatic, and what terrain you'll be driving across. If you arent going tobbe tackling projects with anything but straight grained wood, you can buy a 62. Low angle. But if you aregoing to tackle complex and figured wood, and don't mind taking more time in learning how to make it work for you, a standard 5-1/2 high-angle bevel-down is the one to start with. More moving parts, more knowledge and practice needed, but its an all-rounder. And you can get a decent one for less than a decent 62. And another thing, the 5-1/2 was sold to schools for teaching children woodworking. It's extra weight and length makes it easier to register it on the wood surface, and keep it true and level for beginners.

I agree with you

Standard IBC chisel handles vs Super Ammed "knock your socks off" Holy Smokes they're gorgeous chisel handles! How about that one?

Yes but being from California don't you flip flop on everything????? (Hey folks Ammed and I are good friends)

Well you know I agree with your assessment

Its really surprises me how many "so called" experts write about the 62 and when you check it out invariably they are not woodworkers they are writers. If you have a 5 and a 6 you really don't need a 5-1/2. A #6 is my second choice. Unless of course you are like me and just want to get most of the sizes!!!

RobCosman.com yes sir I want them all lol!!!

Sorry, too ugly!

Umm, since I don't use low angle planes I think I would be uncomfortable doing that subject. I don't have the experience necessary to give tips in the use of a low angle jack plane.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking It is very refreshing to see someone who is unquestionably an expert craftsman decline to shoot his opinion on something like this, because he doesn't feel he has enough experience... far too many pundits don't have that level of integrity. Many thanks Rob for all the hours of effort you put in to teach what you have learned over the years. There's no BS on this channel, just a lot of skill and hard won knowledge. Personally, my most-used plane is a Veritas LA block with the auxiliary handle (a great idea). Mini-smoother, small shooter, fixer of nasty tear-out after I've run over a knot with another plane... just does what I want time after time. A really nicely engineered and effective small plane, even if it's not as pretty as some others and I still don't have the slow adjuster. My second favourite is a Clifton No. 5 which is a very nicely built classic bevel-down plane, with an excellent and thick Clifton Victor iron. Well-sharpened, this also always performs very nicely but is not as flexible for really nasty grain, where a steep secondary bevel on the Veritas is easier to put on when needed. Many classic woodies with lovely old tapered irons and (usually) rather wide mouths also get a lot of use, and also make me smile when they are in the hand. But when the chips are down or I've screwed up, it's the little Veritas that is usually the one I turn to. I am definitely feeling tempted by the block's bigger brothers - and Lee Valley are also a really nice company from what I have seen of them, and deserve support for investing so much effort and money in engineering such a nice set of tools: even if not everyone agrees with the aesthetics, there are a lot of practical details that they have taken trouble over and none of it is driven by BS as far as I know. Just like Rob :) cheers to everyone, and happy planing.

You wont be sorry, I guarantee it

A sharp blade trumps all. I think the adjustable throat on the 62 is nice, but for me it that doesn't overcome all the other things I dont like with it. So do you have a favorite plane among your collection?

RobCosman.com, Hi Rob, I have got two old Kanna from good traditional Japanese Blacksmiths in very good condition (the Kanjis in the Irons are chiseled, not imprinted), difficult to set up and to sharpen, but these Japanese planes are something special. The challenge for me is to get the best out of the tools, use it were it serve best and enjoy the tool feels good in my hand. I like the handle of the Lie Nielsen No. 62, it feels good in my hand. The lateral adjustment is easy enough for me. But after watching your videos I bought the Lie Nielsen No 8 and no low angel jointer. A friend of mine bought the Veritas low angle jointer plane - we are both happy with our decision.

Lie Nielsen. Usually get them new on ebay for about 80%. Rob use to be their rep.

I agree. A new blade in an old plane make all the difference. As self-serving as this is I highly recommend you look at my revival plane blades. They are the best out there. Watch my video on the product page. Here is the link for the 2-3/8 blade: robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/ibc-rob-cosman-revival-plane-blade-set-2-3-8-inches

Well what can I say, I go through a lot of blades!