Showing the cheapest, fastest and easiest way to setup your LSx harness in your swap project. Detailed video of how to make the stock unmodified LS truck harness work by just giving it power in two spots. This method is simple, free and gets the engine running, but it sure isn't pretty.
People often ask me how I run the LS motors without modifying the factory harness so I make this quick list of what I do:
- First make sure that the VATS (Vehicle Anit Theft System) is disabled in the PCM by having a tuner turn it off when he "Flashes" the PCM. (You may want him to turn off your emissions at the same time.)
- Give power to the main fuse block terminal post.
- Then give power to pin A9 of the C1 plug of the fuse block. This will be you ignition hot. Thats it.
- Make sure that you've given the fuel rail about 58 PSI of fuel and it'll run.
I control the starter with a seperate switch or you can just jump the solenoid.
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In this video, to supply FUEL to the engine, I used this very handy tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G...
Starter trigger tool that I used:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
To have your VATS disabled from your PCM or to just buy another PCM already flashed the way that you want it, "CoolMike222" on eBay sells this service cheap and I know that he's a good trustworthy guy from previous transactions and interactions with him.
Here's a link for example.
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532...
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The link below from LT1swap.com shows you a photo to help you find where to give power.
lt1swap.com/underhoodfuseblock...
Now, that's just one example. It's the cheapest, fastest and easiest setup, but also the ugliest setup. To accomplish other harness methods for a cleaner less cluttered looking install, you must not be afraid of reading a wiring diagram. Once you look at it and see where I've told you to give power to, then you can follow that to know where to give power if you chose to run without the stock fuse block.
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This is a small universal fuse block that I use when I cut the factory fuse block off for a cleaner look:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
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Q&A from the comments under this video:
Q: Can this be done with a drive by wire throttle body and harness?
A: Sure, I'd bet it's near the same. The main difference will be that you'll need to have the pedal and its harness connected as well, when running it. Also if interested, you can easily convert a DBW to DBC by adding the IAC and TPS pigtails to the harness and have the PMC flashed for DBC when you have the VATS removed.
Q: If I bring all the wires with harness like you did with fuse box will the trans still work also?
A: Yes
Q: Can I put this setup in my project just like this and everything will work and drive fine.
A: Yes, but there will likely be other wires that you'll want to hook up. One example is the TCC wire.
Q: What about the OBDII port?
A: If you'd like to use the OBDII port, you only have to find the one OBDII signal wire in the wiring diagram and run it and a power and ground wire to your OBDII port and it'll work.
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