I do use a small piece of pipe in the handle. But I don’t tighten it excessively tight. I use the pipe to get a better feel more then to tighten real tight. The chuck handle has short handles. With the pipe it’s easer on the hands.

@@EdgePrecision Can you please share CAM file?

Wow thank you!

No thanks required Peter I enjoy everything that you put out you’re just amazing individual

I am currently working on a video for the real chess parts in the set. Thanks!

I think in this case the endmill is to long. Also the cut is pushing into the chuck on the back side and pulling away on the front side. The bronze seems to not like this but it is OK for the aluminum. A shorter endmill with fewer flutes and less helix with variable flutes would be better.

@@EdgePrecision I was surprised when I watched video. Its like it did same thing on his machine. I could hear it. I was doing a climb cut on front side going to chuck. Back side I tried climb or conventional and both chattered. Changed cam to flip form and do climb cut going to chuck on front side and problem was solved. Had me scratching my head. I just guessed my 4th axis needed adjusting. BTW like you when running aluminum it was fine either way. I was only doing a 0.75 deep cut with 0.5 endmill at 10% woc. And didn't expect different results in brass just like you. Your stock and form is much larger from what I could tell. Anyway cool project and I dig you multi axis machine.

Yes! I have seen his video. A very clever way to make one on a manual machine.

The aluminum pieces this size have a good weight to them. The brass/bronze might actually be a tad to heavy. At least lifting the aluminum knight compared to the bronze one gives me that impression. Also the price of bronze/brass is very expensive in the 2.0" and 1.75" diameters required for the parts. But the granite cold be a god idea. There are many granite places close to me.

The whole thing is being climb milled the back and the front. It’s not the climb milling that’s causing the problem. First the tool could be shorter. Also a high helix endmill with 5 flutes isn’t the best tool either for this. But it’s the tool I had. When cutting on the back side the force of the cut is into the part and chuck. On the front it’s pushing the part back and away from the chuck/spindle. A less rigid way. The combination of the bronze and what I just described is causing this vibration. A shorter 4 flute variable pitch tool would be the way to go. Also as you say rotating the part to climb mill only on the back side would also be good.

It was a tool I already had not the best. A shorter tool would be better. And as you say a variable helix and flute spacing. I think the reason it chatters on the front and not the back is the way the tool pushes into the part and chuck on the back. But is pulling the part away in the front. The part has more rigidity when pushing into it to damp out the vibration.

@@EdgePrecision ah yeah I hadn't thought of that. Surprising if that's the case given the absolute beastly size of that spindle! Awesome vid, thanks.

I do have a video on making the whole set.

Thank you pastormarkm! My machine has a 640m Pro control. So it should be very similar (I think) to yours. I will keep that in mind for a future video. I don't know can that control do full simultaneous 5 axis type of work. Or is it more a positional 5 axis. Have you run the machine at all? Also do you plan to use just the Mazatrol to program or are you going to use some cam software?

@@EdgePrecision Thanks so much! I believe it can do full 5 axis. It is supposed to be delievered Dec 22.

This is supposed to be the same machine I have purchased except I have a sub spindle and this one does not... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nt-CdcV4x5i5dHU.html

I plan to do some Mazatrol programs and hopefully some CAD/CAM via Fusion 360.

Thanks! If that were so the Square size would be 2.25". And yes I plan to make a complete set out of Aluminum. Anodize black and clear. I do sort of have a plan for the board out of metal. But one comment'r suggested Granite. That could be good also.

He’s not going to win that. Because he was more then likely cheating.

That is a post safety retract, there are various ways to do it, one is a full retract as shown here, or it can retract to a safety plane that would clear the 3 jaw Chuck, or you can go risky and retract only far enough to clear the stock plus an inch or two. When you are making thousands of the same part everyday you optimize for minimum retracts , probably by hand coding, when you are making one chess set, you let the post do it the safe way (-:

Thanks Bill! As said by David the Swarfer. These are the standard retract clearance moves put in by Esprit TNG. I just left the default moves. It would be worth it, to reduce these. If you were running many parts. But just for a few it's safer this way. It also gives me time to change camera posistions.

What I plan to do is glue some felt to the bottom of the pieces.

I program for the Mazak using Esprit TNG cam software and SpaceClaim for my cad.

I do know a little about chess. No tricks really. With chess it is mostly memorizing the play strategies, openings, mid, and endgames patterns and practice of those.

There is a reason bells are made out of bronze. I think it's a combination of that and the way the endmill is pushing on the part. On the back side the cutting force is directed into the part and fixture and on the front its pulling away. The same thing happened with the aluminum to a lesser degree. So when the finish pass ran (in the aluminum) it cut it away. Also running the long 5 flute and high helix tool I'm using is not the most ideal for these materials. But it was the tool that I already had. I think I will use a different tool for the next ones. Thanks!