its pretty easy to work on engine tho. But definitely must have water pump replacement once youre there 100%. I also replaced those junky stretchy bolts to 8 grade timing component bolts from local hardware store. It was just keep stretching when applying proper torque using torque wrench

Thanks! I wouldn't be out in the az heat either lol. Hope repair goes well when you get to it!

@@BustedtoBuilt Where do you suggest I purchase the chain and guide kit?

Cloyes is probably going to the only timing kit available in the aftermarket and should be available thru any auto parts. If you want to go oem parts anywhere online or right thru the dealer. I typically use the cloyes kit but the internet is pretty quick to critique non oem parts so you are sure to get mixed answers but I'm happy with their products

A lot of shops won't get into a job like this, a lot less liability to sell a whole motor

@@BustedtoBuilt Liability? What can they be held liable for? Do you just mean if the new timing chain fails soon after/within a certain time frame of being replaced & causes a blown engine &/or other damage, they'd have to cover it? My daughter has a 2012 that had the whole frozen PCV valve or w/e & had a 'new'(?) engine put in just 2 months short of 2 years ago. Fast forward to a month ago & . . . . her timing chain is bad. Chevy dealer said sorry, prior repair & parts not still under any warranty. She bought something else & is going to try to sell the Equinox as is. If anyone wants to buy one like this, we're in west central IL lol.

Thanks for watching!

@@BustedtoBuilt my pleasure! Keep doing the skits like the lady at the beginning. I thought it was pretty funny

Thanks! I'll try to work those bits in more

Starter is good, high pressure pump is newly replaced, tank pump turns on, new spark plugs and they all spark, I can feel compression when I pull a spark plug, cover the hole, and have some one try to start the motor… going to be doing the timing next as stated above…. Just want any other thoughts as to why. Thanks for any and all help

If timing is off and won't start then when you pull apart for timing repair pull both camshafts out and do a cylinder leak down test to be sure there are no bent intake valves. With metal shavings from chain and guides going thru the motor there are going to be a host of variables on any engine but I would start with your timing chain and do a leak down

This one had 140k on it

@@BustedtoBuilt mine has 160k just tore off the valve cover today mine was looser,but didn't bust thru the top

My next project after I take it on a 1000 mile drive. Fingers crossed.

Valves can contact pistons but of my own personal experience only see maybe 1 out of 25 smash the intake valves when the chain goes. Most shops won't get into them just for liability because of their high failure rate. Cylinder leakdown test with cams out while doing timing chain will verify if Cylinders are sealing or have bent valves

Hmm I have the same vehicle, I got a “low power” message in a neighborhood area. I’m wondering if I bent a valve? I turned the car off in that neighborhood and it didn’t start since. Any advice for my Chevy equinox 2013?

Ensure NEW components are used, should include replacement of ALL gears, tensioners, guides and torque to yield bolts

Nothing upgraded to my knowledge and very common to go out, the plastic guides are the real issue with them, on your engine I usually have good results with replacing chain kit and cleaning out the oil pan if there is any breakage

There shouldn't be any play in the chain if all components are there, intact, and installed correctly.

I have not done a video on the rear main, but I would agree would be a good time to tackle the chains as well. Will definitely be an adventure! Thanks for watching!

Most people end up dropping the subframe with the motor and replace it all at once. Including the water pump that is a lot easier to change while the timing cover is off, and is on the back of the engine under the exhaust manifold.

Thanks!

I'm sure it was engineered to fail prematurely like most things, if they all kept running no one would be back to buy a new car

And the worst part of it is that it has an oil level sensor that doesn’t even detect anything.

Imo I wouldn't bother doing either if there is nothing wrong right now, the guide bolt isn't really an upgrade, just a means of being able to repair an engine that has blown that bolt off. The bolt will only break out of the head after the plastic guide has exploded. The tensioner can be replaced without teardown but you would have no way to know if your timing is still correct after releasing chain tension by pulling out the original tensioner.

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks for info, now I have more of an understanding of those parts. 👍

I also meant to add….no engine codes or CEL coming on yet.

Yeah likely is the the chains, if no codes and running good otherwise. now would definitely be the time to get after it and get it done

I have seen quite a few that will set codes for knock sensors with bad chains. Not saying that's your problem but it would not be uncommon

I thought so too

Probably not worth putting any money into the motor you currently have unless just wanting to band aid together to sell. If something you plan to drive for a while would suggest a remanufactured engine that will have the updated internal parts so these problems don't keep reoccurring. Sorry about the luck with your vehicle but thank you for watching!

Sounds like you're probably into it for a motor now

I appreciate that!

It's skipped time then if there is no compression, next step would be to do a cylinder leakdown test to check for valve damage and if ok then should be able to put a timing set into to repair

Potentially could be

I would recommend a new motor, even if the one in it is able to be repaired I wouldn't rely heavily on it to last reliably to get you far. A remanufactured engine will come with a warranty and all internal updates

Pretty easy to do, it's mostly a click bait video unfortunately for anyone looking for good content. Not really any tips either, thanks for watching

Could have something to do with it

Very likely, hard for me to tell sight unseen from across the depths of youtube obviously

One bolt holds the dipstick tube to the intake. Just remove the bolt and the tube will pull out of the pan

@@BustedtoBuilt oh.....lol....i just pulled all pan bolts and dripped the pan...dip stick diddnt even have to move at all

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks tho

Np, thanks for watching!

If your rocker arms haven't fallen out then the valves should be fine. You can do a cylinder leakdown test to verify sealing. Typically if the valve is bent the rocker arm will fall out as there is no tension to keep it in place once the valve can't close. Real world experience I've only seen 2 equinoxs that have bent valves and I would blame the customer for both of those as they drove it with no oil and then continued driving after the chains went out

Yes unfortunately that's a good early tell-tale

Blow by. Poor piston and ring to cylinder fitment on these. The root cause of most problems with this motor

They burn the oil that leaks past piston while sending the carbon from the combustion process into the crankcase

1-2k depending on the amount of carnage

It would not be a bad idea to do them while apart if something you plan to continue to drive. They are also a fairly common failure. Thanks for watching!

What tools did you use? I wanna try to replace mine

I am getting the P0014 code, did an oil change and changed out intake and exhaust solenoids and still getting the code. Took it to a mechanic and they said they think it is the timing chain and charged me $160. It isn't making any weird noises or clicks. How soon after the oil change did the light go away?

@@TheJmcraezy reset the codes ,disconnect the battery then see..Mine keeps getting metal shavings all over the cam sensors..If I clean them it fixes it..Gotta be the guide bolts or something wearing.Damn

You might want to change the water pump while you're in there

Thanks for watching!

They can be a bugger, props for tackling yourself!

I would be too! Just a very poorly engineered engine

I had my timing chain replaced twice while the car was under warranty and it just started giving me problems again. It definitely needs to be replaced. Again. No warranty this time. I’ve also noticed my oil changes don’t seem to be lasting as long, either. I’m so frustrated. Still owe 7k. I can’t wait to pay it off and get rid of it…😭

Mine does the same shit and yea its going bye bye real soon

Make sure you buy oem parts

The 2.4L is the worst engine in history

It's just the 2.4 I have seen both o.e.m. and aftmatket parts do the same thing. Nothing I've seen that has been what might be called an "upgrade"

Thats what I figured. Thank you and thanks for the video.

I'll put a Flux capacitor on the list too just to be safe

@@BustedtoBuilt Just don't take it up to 88mph.

0 to 1985 in...............still counting lol

@@garmin1488SOME SERIOUS SHIT

I would suspect the chain is the issue, definitely where I would start

@@BustedtoBuilt there was metal alllll in the solenoids not sure where to go next 😅

They're about as throw away as a weed Wacker anymore

The keyway is only to index the balancer. The oil pump is driven by the flats on balancer but as you stated wouldn't go together if wasn't assembled properly. Was low oil pressure verified with mechanical gauge?

@@BustedtoBuilt wait, did the harmonic balancer have to be installed for the oil pump to spin?? I haven’t installed yet, just crank it up to check timing and if good than put everything back together.

@@BustedtoBuilt just went to my garage, couldn’t wait to tomorrow, put the harmonic balance in, tight it, started the car up and bingo no more low oil pressure. Didnt know the pump spin off the harmonic balance, your answer to my original comment fix it my problem, thank you so much 💪

You are very welcome, happy was able to help, no 2 engines ever built the same way it seems.

The turbocharged 1.5 has a chain

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks so much. I am relieved.

@@inkey2 The 1.5 turbo has major problems with cracking pistons and failed turbochargers.

@@atx-cvpi_99 lucky I only drive 2000 miles a year

Any auto parts will likely have all the parts in stock for this repair or could also go to any gm dealer for the parts, all are regularly replaced and shouldn't have any trouble finding them

That's a steal!

Hopefully that will solve it, thanks for watching! If still having troubles a scope of the cam and crank wave patterns should give some good insight

Yes got it looked at. There was a bolt that was loose that luckily didn’t get into the engine and the guides for the timing chain were loose. Just had them fill the the timing set so it’ll be good for awhile.

If you have the 4 cylinder then yes

I would change any and broken parts. My vehicle was fine with just cleaning the solenoids but all scenarios may be different. Total cost was maybe $80 for oil, filter and used valve cover.

I would purchase a chain with 3 marks on it, otherwise you can just count the links on your old chain and reference that to your mystery 2 marked link chain

The phasers do go bad often and will make a lot of noise. Any trouble codes or noise only? Typically if timing is good and phaser gets bad enough it will throw a code for the suspect phaser in the form of a correlation code for either intake or exhaust

@@BustedtoBuilt before changing the current kit, it had code P0011 and there was a lot of side noise. I changed the chains, tensioners and guides, erased the fault code. The side noise is gone. now a different noise appeared at the top (like yours). It only appears at idle and when the car warms up. No more fault code appears. Any idea?

Off the top of my head I'm still suspicious of one of the phasers being bad, but otherwise I've personally never seen any other parts make noise

@@srJonyOliveira update on this?

Im having a very similar issue with my 2010 malibu

Probably compression, spark or fuel

Sounds like a belt tensioner

@@BustedtoBuilt I'll check it.. thanks

@@aljohame It's probably still your timing chain, I just replaced a belt and tensioner on 2011 equinox, same thing as you the timing chain quiets down above 1200 rpm. You could easily pull the valve cover off and check the timing chain for slack. I'm going to replace the timing chain now.

@@garmin1488 I think so .. I'll pull it as soon as possible... Thank you so much for sharing this

Sight unseen I would put my money on it needing a timing chain, just pull the valve cover off and inspect. More than likely will have the guides shredded off same as this equinox in the video

So we took the valve cover off and the timing chain has no play it’s really tight and it’s really clean

Change your VVT Solenoids and reset your code. Use the Dorman replacement parts. Pull your rear cam sensor and see if there is metal flakes on the face of it in direct sunlight. If not you are probably ok. Frequent oil changes!

At least you know how to stay on top of it. People don't believe me when I say check it everyday

Bro I’m in the same boat. I just did the timing chain. I hate this engine.

@@BustedtoBuilt Thanks for putting this video on here. People like you give me hope for the human race. So I'm guessing your Equinox doesn't have a low oil warning message that pops up on your HUD? I have a '14 Malibu with the 2.5 Ecotec, and it always warns me when I'm a quart low. I bought mine new, and it has always consumed a quart of oil between oil changes. I've also always changed it every 5000 miles myself. I found your video on here because I just replaced the timing chain on mine. It wasn't making any noise, but I did have the P0016 code, and the tensioner was maxed out but the chain was still snug. 173,000 miles on it so far. Again, thanks for posting this!

136,000 miles

It is an oil fed tensioner, if the chains, guides and tensuoner are done already then I might be looking at the oil pump losing its prime

Thanks for reply. Losing prime. Is that a block off plunger with debris in it. Is it located in the oil pump or it on the block in known location. TIA

The pump is in the timing cover

Fingers crossed

I believe the 2018 was a different engine than these, so hopefully they solved some of the issues

@@timh36 Nope they created more issues. The turbochargers fail, pistons crack, and they have very similar problems with the 1.4 turbo engine that was in the Chevrolet Cruze, Chevrolet Sonic, Chevrolet Trax, and the Buick Encore which is failing turbochargers, problems with the thermostat and water pump, valve cover problems, intake manifold problems, PCV system problems, and cracked pistons which requires a new engine and the problem is that it’s very difficult and expensive to get a new engine and a lot of the cars are sitting in the shop for up to a year in some cases because GM can’t build enough engines to keep up with the demand and most likely the engine will arrive by 2024. Even if the car is still under factory warranty, customers still have to wait months to get the car back and some cases, the lemon law got involved and made GM buy the car back. Sure you can buy a used engine but the salvage yard wants $2,000 for just the engine and in some cases $3,000 or even $4,000 for a low mileage used engine that’s complete. The $2,000 engine doesn’t include accessories like the water pump, thermostat, turbocharger, intake manifold, and sometimes no valve cover. It’s just the long block. My theory is that GM got rid of the Trax and the Encore and replaced them with a new model with a completely different engine so that GM can build more 1.4 turbocharged engines for customers with blown engines. I don’t know if that’s true or not but either way, GM discontinued that engine option.

You can try using an obd tool to clear all of the codes. Autozone usually has higher end ones with code clearing capabilities that you can just borrow

Did you get the code cleared? Was your timing chain loose? I have a p0016 and am about to replace the chain but i'm worried that it won't clear the code either. But I know the chain needs to be replaced.

@@garmin1488 I had a check engine light for the same codes. I had the entire timing mechanism replaced including sprockets, guides, tensioner etc. the codes were cleared using an obd tool and they haven’t come on since

Yeah i try a obd and clear the code but when i start the car the light turns on again and read same code p0017 it doesn’t want to go away

@@joanthen8895ever get it figured out? Similar situation

No

Do not need to remove motor mount. Will need to trim timing cover gasket to be done but is fairly self explainitory once you pull off the timing cover what needs to happen

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks for your reply, I just took it off now. had a hard time getting the timing cover off, so i took the mount off for more space. Almost exactly like yours, chain had worn off the upper chain guide and just starting to wear on the rocker cover, black guide was broken into three and worn. So far everything is going smoothly. I bought VVT sprockets too. thanks again

@Garmin1 glad video was resourceful! Thanks for watching!

My local auto value store

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks

Thanks for watching and for the comments! To pull pan clean out and reassemble I'm doing these in about 4 hours now.

@@BustedtoBuilt wow!!!

Lol. Sadly they're about as routine for me anymore as lacing my boots. Doing them everyday

@@BustedtoBuilt How many hours does it pay to do this job?

Book time for chain and pan pull, I think is about 8 hours and that's typically what I charge unless there is damage beyond that

Pcv is a better setup on that model at least, not a game changer but yes mostly the same. Thanks for watching!

They still have the same issues but to a lesser extent.

The 10 models are all ticking time bombs. Pull the oil cap off with it idling and will likely have excessive pressure from crankcase blowing out. They didn't get them right from New so if original motor it's sure to just be a band-aid putting the timing set in. The real problem imo is cylinder blow by and oil consumption. Timing set is just usually the first symptom.

Probably whatever they feel is fair if they are willing to touch it at all.

My friend’s shop was $1100 with a new serpentine belt, tensioner, guides and water pump. It includes an oil change. I’m in WI and have used this shop for 8 yrs. Usually I drop off a 12 pack of beer for the guys too.

Thanks for watching, sorry you felt duped. Many are under the impression that when they get to that point the only option is to replace engine. Others have found it helpful but I understand where you're coming from

If time and money are no factor then should be doable lol

10 hours

@@BustedtoBuilt thanks

The v6 is not as prone to issues

Nice video

Takes me about 5

@@BustedtoBuilt thank u mr busted

I definitely would

That is awesome! Sticking it back to the man lol. Thanks for watching!

They're disposable enough I think on the next one I'll give it a shot lol. Thanks for watching!

JB Weld

That's probably the best comment I've gotten on here lol. Thank you!

Anything but one of these!

Sorry it's not what you wanted

Unfortunately if Google was successful at finding auto repair info a good mechanic wouldn't have a reason to exist.

Sold it last summer

Only replacing chain or all timing components? Bad phasers will cause premature wear and often will cause Timing to jump

Having this issue now with a customers car, will not stay in time. How do you check the phasers?

Put a wrench on each camshaft and try to rotate the camshaft with the timing assembled and if the camshaft moves independently of the phaser, the phaser is bad

That's a pretty good run!