Links to ALL products I recommend in the description of this video!

Putting it in the doors helps alot. I find it funny that people ask if the extra weight effects the mileage. Yet 70% of people in the U.S. are over weight more then this sound deadener. lol

Great video, but Jesus Christ man, use jack stands when working under a vehicle! Never trust the jack alone!

I'm a Honda technician, I drove a car that was missing the wheel well guard once, and couldn't believe how loud the road noise was! That's what gave me the idea to insulate the wheel well liner. Also, anyone who has worked on a honda knows how thin their wheel well liners are.

Keep in mind the logarithmic scale of the decibel measuremnent system. A noise reduction of "only" 3 decibel is equivalent to a reduction of 50% of the sound intensity. A noise reduction of "only" 2 decibels in your case is equivalent to approximately 33% reduction of the noise intensity. It's like having 2 radios broadcasting white noise instead of 3. So really it makes a nice difference, and for only a couple of dollars too, it sure makes it worth it

I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted in all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left or right corner area hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone of yellow jacket in for example. I discovered one of these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the rear air escape vent. FILL THAT CAVITY UP! DOn’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old pcarpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone that say bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a lot of foam and rags in there. This for me REMOVED 80% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - particularly on long highway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the from end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better. These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. But persevere and you can get a nice result.

20mm foam or fleece in a very thin polyethylene film (plastic bag material) will be most beneficial, applied to rear surface of wheel arch liner. 20mm is minimum for absorbing tire tread peak frequencies which are usually around 800-1200Hz, but can only be used if there is room for it, as you don’t want to push liner into wheel travel envelope. Also road noise best measured only up to around 30mph, above that wind noise starts to become predominant. Plastic film is to stop the absorber becoming filled with dirt when wet, reducing absorption. Sound deadener or damper pads are best applied to the body in flat areas. I did vehicle NVH for many years in a previous life. Hope this helps.

Don't forget to insulate the upper strut mounting. Through the strut all road and wheel sound waves and vibrations go directly to the car body

Find out where to and NOT TO add sound deadening material in your vehicle for BEST Results! Full video link - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7KZo5lhnMq1fWQ.html

Another way to reduce noise: Make sure your tires are good and balanced. My tires are nearly worn out and I always notice how much quiter and smoother it is with new freshly balanced tires.

One safety tip: If you don't want to use or invest in proper lift stands, you can slide them under the frame (close to jack) as a safety measure. If the car falls off the jack, or the jack fails, it will fall onto the inflated tire or rim before crushing you. You might end up with a ruined tire or damaged wheel, but you should be fine. Plus, as the tire is rather wide, it will allow for a sideways slip (to some extent), not just up and down. As I have lift stands, this is something I always do when changing a tire roadside.

That’s a significant reduction in decibels for one area of treatment! Quieter tires of course help here too. I switched to Michelin pilot 4 A/S, and my 2002 WRX Wagon became a lot friendlier on noise! I did the whole back of the car treatment up to the front seats to quiet the interior from my aftermarket axle back muffler :) I’ve been meaning to get around to the front of the interior for awhile… Looks like a good product you found. I used a butyl damping layer with closed cell foam adhered to the top. Layered up the butyl till it passed the rap test in an area. Then applied the foam layer. Thanks for sharing your experiences, cool videos!

My Lancia has special wheel arch liners (some textile overlay) to kill road noise and it works very well (and not much heavier than plain plastic liners).

Coming to you soon as a $200 dealer option for your new car

Pro tip, buy a pack of those fragile plastic wheel well clips before you start this type project

I had a 2008 A3 Hatchback that I could always hear tire noise. I installed a waterproof sound deadener on the "cabin side" inside of the front fender liners. Made a noticeable difference. I was worried about trapping water (and causing rust) so I did not install on the metal body.

This is an interesting hack. Retesting the thing should have been done without the kid to recreate the exact same conditions. An additional person can change the sound inside a car significantly. Especially when he is screaming xD Different tires will make a difference as well. Especially at slightly higher speeds like 160km/h-180km/h. You can also put it inside the doors, but be careful with the drainage holes.

If you use this stuff try putting it in places that are flexible plastic stuff like door pockets, dash and center panel, door panels in the interior etc, you can hide it quite easily by tucking it under or in these areas, makes a big difference and it doesnt take much to dampen the sound a bit. A problem with putting this in the wheel wells is these areas need dissasembly to maintain the car for instance some lights and evap equipment requires the liners be removed to replace bulbs or parts. if you can avoid covering up the fasteners its ok.

Open the front door, you can see the fender gap inside that is the plastic wheel well guide. The noise only need to travel through plastic wheel well guide to door's rubber seal and enter the interior. That's the most cost effective way.

Hondas generally dont come with a ton a sound deadening material from the factory. Thats why one could buy the Acura version for a quieter ride.

This is amazing. I bought a spray on type for my vehicle, but it works well. I spray all the inner wheel fenders like you, however I took it one step further and inside the vehicle, I took out the interior plastics and trims and sprayed all the bare metals and wheel fender bump that you see inside most suv's in the trunk area ( I have a 4runner). Suv's generally produces the most road noise from that area of the trunk and I spray every part of it and the noise is NOTICEABLY gone now. This is the coolest hack ever to achieving a quieter vehicle !!!

Thanks for taking this on! I am a SQ sound listener and have done my whole car except for the wheel wells and the 20 Camry with the Panoramic sunroof. I will do the wells to add that extra from these noisy Mississippi roads! Semper Fi and Can Do

i was just looking for a before and after! i’m committed to this now lol

You could spray rubberized undercoating on the side of the fender well liner where you put the sound deadening material. Quick, easy, cheap.

To me, the main culprit for road noise is tires. When ready for new ons, I review independent tests for road noise, slippery/icy road traction, and expected life span, and of course warranty and get the best combo I can, with noise a high priority. Our Prius V and Kia Rondo went from so noisy it was hard to hear the radio, to so quiet the radio became enjoyable. Not only that, tires are key to noise over road seams, pavement breaks, gravel road noise, etc. It's all about tires, and the more "macho" they are, the more noise you have to live with.

That was a significant change. Thank you.

Best wheel roller / sticher that is FREE! Used timing belt tentioner with attached pulley. Use tentioner as handle. No one at my shop could ever thought of that. Blew their minds.

Great video and good point about the jack except that you are trusting your life to hydraulic seals ! It was drilled into me as a young lad never trust your life to hydraulic pressure only . I would recommend the addition of some sort of jack stand as the safest, most stable support .

I remember how quiet 2011 Super Duties were when we were doing pre destination inspections, and noticed the almost felt like fender liners. It is insane to see some manufacturers with aero designs in the fender liners as well. I think people seriously underestimate the amount these liners do.

Was this installed on just the front wheel wells? Or the rear wheels also?

Every 3 decibels drops the sound by 50% Good job

Great video! I can recommend wearing light weight gloves doing this work because the cut aluminum edges can put micro cuts on your finger tips .

Did you perceive a difference in the tone of the noise aside from the magnitude? Absorption material will enhance your result where you added the constrained layer damping material. I'd expect less vibration and resonance from the material you added. A closed cell foam (hydrophobic) with adhesive backing applied through the wheel arch as fully as possible will make more difference in blocking the noise transmission - particularly with a mass loaded layer separated from the arch metal (dynaliner for example). This can be done from inside the vehicle and enhanced by layers under the external arch lining.

The suspension can also transmit road noises to the chassis of the car - I changed mine to an aftermarket one which did not have the same type of elastomer dampening on it's support on the frame, the road noise became much louder

Thanks for the tips. It is an easy modification to make. I tried this on two of my cars and it made a noticeable difference. I used some Noico sound deadener mats on the rear portion of the plastic fender liner and used spray on sound deadener on the front portion. (Reverse for the rear wheel wells) for a 2db reduction . It was a great start. I may purchase another Noico kit and try some other areas. The main reason I used so little on the liners was that I only had a few pieces left of a small 10 sq ft kit, and the rest was used on both hoods. Seeing the proof, I wish I purchased a larger kit to continue in the cabins.

Amazon product actually has tested to be one of the best.

I wonder if carefully spraying truck bed liner on the non-insulated spaces would work? It might be easier to do.

The resonant frequency would be lowered by the added acoustic mass so if you checked the recording on a spectrum analyzer you might find the pitch of the noise was lowered which makes it subjectively less intrusive/unpleasant.

What about the spray kind? Is it good?

Spray on sound deadening also works and would be easier to apply. Though it might be slightly more expensive.

Hi I was wondering if you had any advice for sound proofing a door with glass panels. I just moved into a new flat with my friend where all the doors including the bedroom doors have glass panels as well as lots of gaps and you can hear everything! We are both students and dont have a lot of money to spend but would love to give ourselves more privacy if you have any ideas. I am just worried sealing the gaps around the door, spending lots on that and it not doing much because of the glass panels. Anyway thanks and great channel!!!

Awesome!! Thanks!!!

My old tyres still looked good but made a loud drumming noise in motion. (My local garage boss said that make was now discontinued anyway) and the new set of budget tyres he recommended are so quiet now I could literally hear a clock tic ((if they still made them!)

Tip: If you don't own a jack stand as a safeguard, put a wheel under the car (side). It's infinitely better than nothing. If you're afraid of scratching your rims, add a piece of cardboard on top.

Unless those are made for outdoor purposes it’s useless 🙌🏻 nice vid bro

High quality tires also make a huge difference. I put new tires on my car a little over a year ago and now when I'm cruising on the highway at 75mph all I hear is the sound of the wind rushing over the body.

If you're not using a jack stand, the jack that comes with your vehicle is going to be more stable and reliable than a hydraulic will. Hydraulic jacks are meant to put cars on jack stands. They are not meant to hold the car while you're working underneath. Obviously, supporting a vehicle by any method requires that you have the wheels at the other end locked, like with the parking brake or with wheel chocks.

need good tires that are balanced properly and make sure the suspension parts are in good condition as well.

Always use Jack Stands, it doesn't matter how good your car jack is, everything is fine till it isn't! Good video though, is this stuff available in Australia, please! Edit: it's available in AU.

My concern would be how long the deadener stays attached in real weather conditions. Let us know if its falling off after 6 months or a year?

Wouldn't some sort of spray on insulation be easier to just spray on and work as well?

That's right: You need sound deadening material in your doors, on the car floor AND up under what used to be called, the firewall as well as the tyre wells. Some cars just use that underlay lightweight material inside.

If you're serious about it, I prefer taking the seats out, then take the carpet out. A lot of the noise is harmonics from the frame. Go to your local rubber supplier and get a few sheets of the 3mm (or 5mm- better) with sticky backing and apply to the whole floor area, the panel behind the back seat squab, and as far up the front firewall as you can manage. Then replace the carpet and seats. Result...amazing! It looks like a Vauxhall but it rides like a Jag.....nuff said....

Some years ago I tried this on my Renault Megane 1.5 dci. I put sounddeadning anywhere, butyl . The result wasn‘t bad, but Inwouldn‘t do it again. It was a lot of work and it isn‘ t cheap.

Do you have a roller you use to conform it to the substrate? A thick wood dowel with rounded end works well for edges, bends.

My wife's Honda Civic still uses these plastic wheel wells, my Toyota CHR on the other hand doesn't, I don't have any wheel wells, but metal is covered with some sort of epoxy like material which is hard.

Try noice cancellin with amplifier. Mic or speaker (as a mic) connected to car floor (cone pointing floor) and conneted to amplifier. Subwoofer and speakers from that with opposite phase and you can adjust volume with speaker level adjustment and adding more or less mass to mic cone.

You should now put some closed cell foam over the sound deadener. Also the Amazon basic sound deadener is also butyl based not asphalt. I used that plus some closed cell foam in the trunk. It made a big difference.

I did this to my 370z front and rear wheel wells.. i got the road noise down to 80db fron 89db. I have no exhaust mods

Well here's the thing. This is only gonna affect noise up until about 40mph and my 2024 Kia Soul is pretty quiet up until then and in fact isn't bad after that. The noise that starts to dominate above that speed though is wind. So I don't care what it is you're driving once you get above 70 mph things are gonna be noisier and especially on undivided roads when oncoming vehicles pass you. Another thing. If you have a dashcam that records audio its gonna pick up a LOT of road noise at any speed. And, BTW EVERY vehicle needs a dashcam.

How does this mod compare to putting foam into the tires like ContiSilent?

1. ALWAYS wear a seatbelt 2. ALWAYS use jack stands or at least put your wheel underneath as hydraulic jacks can collapse instantly with no warning!

You're very talented! Driving, holding cell phone/camera and holding the meter!!

Don't they make a spray foam insulation? Just wondering

"use a sound spectrum analyser to better see if any frequencies of noise have disappeared instead of using a standard db sound meter" - this is what i read on other videos. not sure the validity of it. 😊

it's about elasticity decoupling. keanu reeves favourite motorcycle has the motor mounted on rubber. problem it smells. the transmission of lows through the solids is what annoys us, and it's not about decibels but the shakings like earthquaques. if you touch the window with your head you'll hear the motor louder. the sticky hands rubber is used to dampen drums, it's similar to sorbothane but in a budget. some modern rolls royce has one piece of plywood underneath the car as a sound barrier. cars and houses should be built with the acoustics in mind rather than expecting us to fix the problem, there is no room, cars should have another dessign to begin with, like rycotte mic shockmounts and room within a room floating system.

I don't think it will work on every guard. Some guards may become too thick for reinstalling

I am really surprised no-one has come up with an anti-sound device like noise cancelling headphones. I would think you could damp out a lot of noise this way, particularly the whistling air and droning tyre noises.

I think for the most acpustic treatment of wheel arch ppl use a 4-7 mm acoustic foam with that aluminium sheets. What you think?

That noise is the seat belt chime

Dosent it cause rusting ? Water splashes, accumulated on the material edges ?

It's enough to say that BMW e36 was 200kg lighter than e46 - in similar spec just because of the soundproofing mats.

Can you please do a video on how to sound proof a sliding door inside a home? Specifically for privacy, to prevent sound (primarily voices) from leaking out of a room?

Someone else may have already schooled you on this. But a larger jack is not really the best practice, they can fail too, it happened to me once. You should be using a jack stand Good video, I had not considered putting it in the inner wheel guard. I will be soon installing a full 3 stage sound deadening system in my 1981 Hilux 4wd that has a chev type v8, they are very minimal on factory deadening & the V8 does not help.

Mass loaded vinyl (MLV) products are best for keeping road noise out. Your making the metal panels less resonant.

Ears detect above 3db difference. Tyres might be a diffent bet and their db rated at 70mph.

Rubberized undercoating can help too when applied properly.

Better tyres perhaps?

Bet this really helps in the rain.

The majority of sound is the wind going over the car, you’d have to insulate the whole car in to reduce noise.

Anytime you work near or under a vehicle it should be on jack stands.

I know exactly what you meant, and I would have said it too, so i promise this isn't a criticism or a negative comment or anything, but "let's see if we can hear a difference" is a really funny sentence😁😁😁

a 0.2-0.3 db decrease is 50% less noise. thinking of doing this since i have some ceramic wool left over from another project and I like to over inflate my tires, i think it will help. maybe the only way to add weight as insulation and get better mpg as a result

Pump jacks are faster than a car's compact jack, but they don't replace jack stands.

Blessed are the deaf drivers and riders for they do not hear any noice except for the car’s vibration they feel.

Good haircut, good clean shirt, you speak well and didn't do silly things for the clicks. Good job!

The human ear can just about perceive a 1dB change, so 2dB is going to be pretty insignificant. Certainly not worth going to all that trouble for 2dB. Changing the tyres to a quieter tyre will have more of an effect on Road/Tyre noise, all be it a more expensive solution.

Would have to reduce by 3-4 db to be worth it in my mind.

Toyota asked customers if the RAV4 was 'too loud' and most said 'Yes'. But when Toyota asked those same customers if they were willing to pay an extra $40 to cut the interior noise by 50%, almost all of them said 'no', they would switch brands to an inferior automaker rather than pay $40 for a quieter RAV4. That's why Toyota won't make quiet RAV4s, the customers just won't pay the extra it will take to make them less loud. If you want a quiet Toyota, go buy a Lexus instead.

My truck has insulation in the doors from ford. The wheels have nothing. Blasting music and you don't hear the tires anyways lol.

Just spray some spray foam in doors, etc…hhahaha. El cheapo method. J/k. Great idea, thanks for the upload.

How come your car can run without the drivers seat belt engaged? Have you removed the safety relay?

What happens when you stick that material inside the tyres? Will it reduce tyre noise?

So umm is a difference of 2-3 dB significantly quiter?

that is NOT sound deading material, you installed a vibration dampening material. If you want a better improvement buy MLV mass loaded vynil, and you could install it below your floor carpet, then the combination of both will make a drastic change. I did it on my Jeep Wrangler and is amazing

A noise reduction of 1 or 2 dB from about 70dB is not noticeable to humans. For the work and cost involved, about 5dB would make the effort worthwhile. I often wonder why car manufacturers don't use noise cancellation. It would be easy--use the car radio. Road noise is a continuous sound. All that's needed is to produce the same sound at the same loudness, but 180 degrees out of phase. It's done in hearing aids. An audiologist who wore hearing aids told me he could hear the vacuum cleaner as his wife switched it on, then it just faded away. Unfortunately, it doesn't work for a wife's nagging.

To quote Soundproof guy “ a difference of one, or two decibels”. Something to consider perhaps ? A skilled listener is supposed to be able to hear changes of 1dB or more. Less skilled listeners need more like 2 or 3 dB before they are sure there is a difference. (This is measuring source signal amplitude, by the way, not acoustic power.). Mind you there are other considerations here. If we hope it’s going to make a difference, are we more likely to think it does? Personally I’m not sure it’s worth the time and money……

Thick floor rugs.

Oh the seat belts!

As a rule of thumb, a human can detect a 3db change in sound level. So....that's a start.