I had the same stuff put under my carpet in my 70 Buick. Made a big difference.

Carpet padding? Isnt that stuff too thick to then have your car carpet fit properly afterwards?

quite quiet

Trunk is most important due to subwoofers rattling the sheet metal. If you don't have a subwoofer then I guess you only need to focus on isolating the trunk from the interior compartment. Also, what do you mean by TLDR? This is a video. Are you saying you didn't actually watch the video?

@@JasonWW2000 I use captions, so maybe TLDW, it helps to index the content even if it's short. With chapters on videos now it was hard to find unless you get through all the extra in the video.

reducing heat is interesting. but i actually really enjoy the rain sound

@@user-jc5ff7tu5o i love the sound of the rain! Just not when it fall on a thin metal sheet 😂

Rain on the windshield is very loud, but I had other issues when using the mat.

The sun effect is interesting for sure… having an all black interior that noticeably gets hotter the LITERAL SECOND the AC turns off full blast on a hot sunny day. This sounds interesting.

@@ultragalacticgamer7195 I wonder how effective the 'glue' is, under intense roof heat? It probably wouldn't stick long?

You don’t need to cover the whole panel. Just 50% or even much less will already do most of the work. Search for sound deadening on YT and look for a video of ‘car builders - sound and heat’ from 5 years ago for a great example.

It's not entry level, it's called an economy car 👍

Also look under the back seat. My mk3 golf has no sound prodding under there. Throughly is I’m waiting for some welding to done so can’t start doing anything until it’s sorted or it will get stripped again.

My 2022 Kona N-line Ultimate has a lot of noise coming from the rear trunk area and rear wheel wells. Hoping to dampen that for better conversation with rear passengers, and for the Harmon Karden player.

You could have kept him there for a bit longer if you used powdered lime. My condolences.

You shoulda bought a better quality body bag, it is worth the extra.

With a name like billiebobbie I believe you.

This

What is MLV?

@@AndrewDasilvaPLT Mass loaded vinyl

You’re right but they all help, I do layers of butyl to reduce vibration and lower resonant frequency of panels, then on top mass loaded vinyl then on top of that closed cell foam

In an older car, sometimes, all you want is to remove vibrations

Which part? On the wheel side or top side?

@@inevespace On the wheel side. Make sure it has uneven texture finish.

been using airpod noise cancellation and it remove almost all noises in the car up to the point im out of touch with reality..feels like im just floating in my car

You also eliminate hearing any emergency vehicles approaching or me beeping at your floating ass 👽

Doors and floors is where you will have the most road noise reduction, especially on those older models where they would have much less sound deadening materials in them. Best of luck and let me know how it turns out!!

2022 corolla is new and still has awful road noise issues

I just did my doors in my civic today, I ordered more and I’m going to do the trunk and fenders above the wheels

​@@rixzin5046did you notice a big difference after doing the doors?

Salubrious?

@@ronald5728 yeah you have a lot more open space for drone and road noise in a liftback compared to a sedan where its entire trunk compartment is sealed off

No way bro lol that would be a complete waste

Or just do regular PMCS on the car, or do not buy MOPAR, Ford, VW, Hyundai, Kia, Audi, or BMW vehicles and you will not have those issues to begin with...

Actually, the real issue of insulating the engine hood is that you're trapping heat in the engine compartment, shortening the engine and component parts lifespan. That's 1 major reason motorcycles and old VWs don't have radiators. They're air cooled.

I feel the same about doing the floor as well, especially on something like my 4WD 98 Cherokee because there’s a lot more that can go wrong than some other vehicles. I’m gonna get my sound system installed and see if I find it to be worth it to do my sound deadening before I move out/out of state one day where it won’t be nearly as easy to do a big project like that.

@stephenburnage7687 Unfortunately, Low Frequency vibrations, resonances, and direct sound sources are the most difficult to reduce. The low frequency sounds, vibrations, and resonances that we typically associate as engine rumble & vibration or exhaust drone begin around 100Hz and lower in frequency. This is why we can hear sonic booms, thunder, and the subwoofers from from car audio systems over long distances. The high frequency wavelengths are dissipated much more quickly over distance, but low frequency travels large distances unimpeded even by multiple barriers. It takes an incredible amount of mass (weight over a large area) in combination with excessive and very thick absorbtion materials to reduce low frequency energy. This is because the wavelength of an 80Hz frequency is over 14ft long, and by the time you get down to 30Hz, the wavelength is over 37ft long! In order to even begin to effectively ABSORB low frequency sound and vibrations, the absorbing material must be AT LEAST 1/4 of the wavelength of that frequency. So, in the case of 80Hz, your absorbtion material would need to be 14 x 0.25 = 3.5 or 3.5 feet thick! That is obviously not practical in most scenarios. Calculate the same 1/4-wave thickness that would be needed to absorb and dissipate 30Hz, and now the absorber material would need to be over 9 feet thick! Your best bet is to try to find better double-isolation rubber engine mounts that would provide much better isolation and anti-vibration properties between the engine and the hull. And then, also make the engine compartment 100% air tight and completely enclosed with 1/16"-1/8" thick sheet lead sandwiched betweeen two durable 1/2" thick layers of Closed Cell Foam which will act as a Sound BARRIER. The sealed sheet lead box acts as both Mass Loading over a large area AND isolates and contains the low frequency vibration and sound energy within the engine compartment. It's just like the windows in your home or car. When the window is closed completely, the least amount of sound from the other side will be heard. But open that same window even a little bit with just a narrow gap and exponentially more sound will make it to your ears. ANY amount of actual air transfer between one side and the other results in a significant transfer of the sound waves and energy. Obviously, due to the heat that is generated by your engine and the exhaust system, it would be impossible to completey seal the engine compartment. You would need a pair of thick, heavy 4" or larger diameter cast iron pipes covered with exterior sound blankets combined with constant forced air flow via a fan to act as a fresh/cool air intake and heat + noise exhaust to an exterior area that is away from the living areas of the cabin in order to expel the heat and isolate and reduce the low frequency energy within the cabin. And wherever those heavy pipes pass through an interior bulkhead and/or the hull to the exterior, they would need to be isolated from transfering their vibrational energy to the bulkheads and hull...i.e. a thick rubber or silicone gasket seal around each pipe where it makes a pass-through or penetration. A rebuilt engine that is "balanced & blueprinted" or different engine and exhaust system altogether that produces much less vibration and low frequency sound energy is the ideal solution, combined with new engine mounts with better isloation. There is also a non-hardening clay-type product called Duct-Seal that is available at your local hardware stores in the electrical department or online. It is used to make air- and water-tight seals in electrical conduit and wiring pass-throughs in beams and bulkheads. If used to seal open holes or gaps, this might help to keep the vibrational energy in the engine compartment from escaping towards the cabin and living areas.

In addition to the excellent suggestions above, you could try installing a crankshaft damper to help reduce engine vibrations. Fluidamper makes them for a wide range of engines. You likely can find one that fits. Better engine mounts can reduce vibration. Look for mounts designed for industrial generators or other equipment. In the industrial world, it's common to use a dual dampening solution. The equipment is mounted (with dampening mounts) to a sled with is then mounted on a flexible base (of different density than the equipment mounts) If your engine is being run primarily to provide electrical power you can always look at installing a smaller dedicated generator, alternative charging (solar, wind, prop-driven generator, etc,), or a larger battery bank to cut down on engine runtime.

The thicker the material the better sound deadening

Here's a hint: I have a late 80's Mercedes-Benz and under the factory floor mats for the front footwells are factory carpet panels -- and those have contoured foam up to 2" thick underneath them. (The contours are to adapt to things like heater ducts to the back seats.)

you are right about that. I have a VW T5 panelvan, i insulated it as much as possible. If i park my car on a hot day, windows into the sun, it gets as hot as a regular car and cooling down takes alot of time. Otherwise when i place the isulation corvers on my windows, it stays cool. In a cold winter day when using the heating, interior stays warm for a long period. Killed the noise in my van alot

He has already made a few videos on how to add sound deadening to an apartment.

Dual pane windows

Thick sound deadening curtains, acoustic panels everywhere, that’s about it really

My brother in law gives drum lessons in his rented apartment, he lined the 4 walls of the teaching room with those 12x12 egg cartons, the drum noise is cancelled out and you can barely hear the drums from the next room. He used blutack to attach the egg cartons to the wall because it usually comes off without removing the paint on the wall. You can cover the egg cartons with some wall sheeting if you don't like the look of them.

close cell foam are closed celles they dont absorb any water, same goes for deadening

Absolutely. Sound deadening material is thin. Stick it on (use small roller) to fully adhere. Then reinstall factory hood pad.

It would help but the sticky park makes it so it absorbs the vibrations a lot better than just laying some rubber overtop it. Both methods will help but the sticky part helps with vibrational road noise.

@@soundproofguide where is the ford excursion you have in this videos thumbnail preview?

They claim it can last the life of the car depending on where it’s applied. It won’t last as long If it’s exposed to the elements and road debris. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the spray. Best of luck!

I just did kilmat to my jeep and it has made a significant difference

Dam you went hard

How is it so far?

@thelifeofaboi2693 it works really well! I noticed a difference in noise for sure. I did the cheap temu foil lined butyl rubber. And then I did a layer of non foil butyl rubber from Amazon. 30 buks for 24 sqft..... Is it worth the money that I spent? Oh yeah. But I would absolutely not pay full price for this. It works I guess. But it's not like I'm in a soundproof room all the sudden. If the car is easy enough to take carpet out. It's worth getting the cheaper foil stuff. But I've only had experience with this these two products. I would really have no way of knowing if it's good compared to name brand...but I could totally tell a difference in quality of the butyl rubber between temu and Amazon stuff. Amazon stuff was more dense. And at times the temu butyl rubber looked like it was melting off paper. But it does the job.

@@davidandrews5262 thanks for update!

Agreed! Tires are the only thing between you and the road and not enough people take them seriously.

I was quoted at least 2k for my whole car. It depends.