Thanks once again very much for the words of encouragement. I'm glad even a seasoned CAD/CAM vet like yourself finds some appreciation in the videos. Cheers! - Adam

Exactly! I was looking for a video like this for a while.

Hi Dan! Thanks for the kind words - I’m glad you found the video helpful. I plan on making a video going over the details of the conversion soon. Stay tuned!

Thank you!

Thanks for the feedback - I’ll keep that in mind and maybe spend some more time on the cam in future videos 👍

Hi Adrian - Awesome! What machine are you building/retrofitting now?

@@adamdebowski2037 I built a small cnc that has a working area of 300mmx 200mm and then I bought a Mega v XXL from millright

Interesting - will definitely give it a shot! Thanks for sharing.

Hi Michael - I’m glad you found it helpful! I very much like the acorn controller. It’s never caused me any headaches and everything’s been plug and play and just always works. I have friends using Linux CNC that swear by it and wouldn’t switch. They claim the learning curve is steep but it’s endlessly customizable and they love it. I’d say that if you’re looking to get up and running quickly making good parts on a 3 or 4 axis mill, go with Centroid. If you’re looking to learn about CNC control systems , or want to spend more time deep diving into the control, Linux CNC might be for you. The only major advantage for Linux CNC I can think of Is the ability to control more than 4 axes. The acorn will “only” do 4 - where Linux CNC will theoretically do as many as you want…. So if you ever want to do something that involves controlling more than 4 motors (including things like for automatic tool changers), go with Linux CNC…. There are centroid acorn controllers that run a tool changer but it always involves only 1 extra motor, and maybe a pneumatic air cylinder or something (you can control up to 8 digital outputs w the acorn out-of-the-box).

Thanks for the sub and kind words! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos. Cheers 🍻 - Adam

It’s running on 240V single phase. Dedicated 20A circuit but that’s more than enough. Thanks for the kind words! Space is a problem I have too.

At this size I’d say yes - it’s the cheapest option - CNC conversion will cost another ~2k.

I like to add the stock around the model as it’s own feature, and separate body in the feature tree. I dont usually define the stock in cam, but that’s just a personal preference. I find it works better for multiple machining operations that involve flipping the part. The stock stays defined the way I intended if I do it that way. It does not rely on me doing “good math” when defining it in cam.

Thanks for the great information! Very helpful. Cheers! Adam

Hi AmericanMakerGarage - it’s layed out manually, but it’s quite easy to do. I had modelled my vises previously for another project, so it was easy to throw them into an assembly and apply a couple linear patterns to get the “grid” of different parts and operations. You can do the same thing in fusion if you like. You can also select the vises and tell fusion Cam that they’re “fixtures” - and it’ll warn you about a crash if you mess up a toolpath.

That's awesome. I've got so much to learn. Gonna be fun. Thanks for the reply ​​@@adamdebowski2037!

Hi diy_garage_tx - thanks for the feedback. That’s a difficult question to answer - but the short answer is: it can hold a couple thousandths easily, and less if you take time/perfect the process using more accurate methods. All in all, im consistently impressed by the accuracy for what it is.

Hi Eden. Sometimes, materials crumble instead of turn into chips. I’ve seen it in cast materials, but never in aluminum. Drilling by hand is most likely the cause of the “chips” looking like that. Can you try it on a drill press with the part in a vise instead? I would be willing to bet you get the long strands/chips that way. Most common aluminum I see is 6061.

Almost sounds like Fortal or 7075.

Yes - exactly. I’m using a $10 app called “fully kiosk” which keeps the web interface full screen and wakes the screen up with motion detection via the camera. I really like it!

Resting the long part on a set of parallels in each vise would have it sitting crooked because the heights of the vises are not the same. It is technically the surfaces that the vise jaws are sitting on that are out. Machining soft jaws takes care of that discrepancy.

@@adamdebowski2037 OH! my bad I thought you were just talking about the jaws, not the vise surface height. Have you indicated off the vise surface to confirm its .025in off?

Hi Armando. I am using the Tormach TTS tool holding system. If you have an R8 spindle, you can easily convert it to TTS by installing this: tormach.com/tts-adapter-collet-r8-50568.html Then you can easily (1/4 turn of the draw bar) change tools while keeping tool offsets the same. The TTS system is both easier when it comes to tool changes and more reliable for tool height offset repeatability. Check out some of the TTS tools/tool holders on the tormach website: tormach.com/tts-set-screw-holder-31818.html tormach.com/tts-toolholder-er20-31829.html tormach.com/tts-superfly-cutter-kit-33031.html I plan to make a video discussing my mill upgrades soon - where I'll go into some detail about this. Stay tuned!

@@adamdebowski2037 Ok, Thank very much for the information, My machine don't have this spindle. It is bt30 with the greadbox.. i don't have other option that make a invention... thank very much one more time. happy new year hahha

Thank you for adding these links! I would love to know what kit you used to CNC convert your machine! I have been looking around for a machine and conversion and this looks like the perfect size for what I want to do!

@@glensmith7537 Hi Glen! There is a user on KZfaq - “Arizonavideo99” who makes ball screw kits for this and other Mills. Can take him some time, but he does a great job!

Hi Taras - I very much consider myself a beginner with HA and wouldn’t feel comfortable (yet?) making a video on this. I subscribe to many KZfaq channels and discord platforms that help me with all my silly questions… cheers! Adam

Yes - absolutely!

Everything you need to know is on KZfaq :)

I replied to another user’s comment with several links to the tool holding - you can flip thru the comments or google “Tormach TTS Tool Holding System.”

@@adamdebowski2037 yeah i just saw it.. so my machine is a rong fu 30 with a r8 system.. you still have to take the draw bar out to remove the tool holder from the special r8 collet?

@@Migman2020 no - the draw bar is loosened a quarter turn, not removed.

Hi Ben - interesting question - at the moment I do not!

It’s open source and totally free. It’s called “home assistant” and can be installed on any computer, or on a raspberry Pi. Lots of good videos on KZfaq.

Interesting. What RPM are you running with plastic? I’ve never had a heat issue.

@@adamdebowski2037 Mostly 18k but it just depends on which end mill I am using. Most times heat issues come from my toolpaths not having a fast enough cutting feedrate. More friction on the tool from slower feedrates. But I mostly mill clear acrylic so there will be differences in materials.

Hi Bernard - It controls an instance of Home Assistant. Fast forward to the last 30 seconds of the video for more details.

@@adamdebowski2037 My question is about the HDPE pieces that cover the edges of the tablet. What are they for?

@@bernardtarver Hi Bernard. I’m not sure I understand your question. The case holds the tablet to the wall with some magnets on the back. It wouldn’t be possible to mount the tablet/screen to the wall without some sort of case.

@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks, Adam. I guess I'm wondering why you substitute a back plate with an enclose. I would imagine you could get away with a simple 4-corner mount, where the tablet could slide up and out from the mount.

@@bernardtarver Oh I gotchya. Just personal preference, I guess! What you're describing would work just fine. I wanted a magnetic snap-in mount, and I like the fully enclosed look without being able to see the power adapter or power cable. Feels like it's part of the wall, like a light switch, rather than something mounted to the wall. Just my opinion!

I use 3D printing quite a bit - but the finish is nowhere near what you can achieve via machining - what’s why the “hidden” wall mounds are 3D printed. You never see them, so it doesn’t matter.