forget that theres a videos on geopolymers where you mix sodium silicate with various metal oxides/salts and mix with filler like sand to provide structural strength. to cure you only need to bake in oven.

@@CatboyChemicalSociety ………….I never thought about just making one. I will try to find a video on it...….thanks. Let me tell you I got some 100 mL porcelain type cups and it takes FOREVER to sand the glazing off the surface

@@jbsc6180 lel fk that geopolymers ftwtw kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcuVqLV6vbHbn3k.html

@@CatboyChemicalSociety ……...Not sure what all the random letters mean but I watched the video you gave me a link to. Watched it twice. It was VERY interesting. I will have to look in to it more. But it seems like that brand of pottery he made might be to water tight to use for electrolysis. I do own a kiln though so even if that particular method is not good for my uses I am sure there are other methods I could use.

@@jbsc6180 you dont need a kiln... essentially the video talks about a type of sodium silicate + magnesium oxide + sand based ceramic that can be fired at 250 celsius in a regular kitchen oven and provide the same strength as pottery. I have used such ceramic plates casted then fired and glued into place as membranes and if you use certain salts like CaSO4 additive then the you can use that as a valid exchange membrane for sulfuric acid/sodium hydroxide production.

The ions need to move through the bridge slowly, and only if there is actually a difference in charge between the two half-cells. If it were only saltwater, then it'd just mix with the ions in their respective half cells and just become a homogeneous solution.

No need to refrigerate, room temperature does the job. I'm not really sure on aloe vera though, if you can make it set into a watertight, structurally sound jelly, it should do fine (though it will depend on whether it is chemically resistant to your application).

Use candle wax

I'd definitely consider that to be a good idea if you want to use an agar diaphragm. It'll likely make it last a bit longer. Generally, the resistance of an agar bridge is pretty high regardless of strength though, so I haven't used them much lately in favour of other options.

@@ScrapScience The thinner a wire is the greater its resistance. And, the longer a wire is the more the resistance there is in the wire. The same holds true for current through salt bridges, across a memvrane a membrane, through a clay pot, ect. I used to help a company optimize their hydrogen generators. Most of the basic principles apply.

Sorry i meant the agar brine bridge

They tend to degrade pretty quickly from the testing I’ve done with them. Agar might work better than what I have, but the gel I use seems to fall apart and liquefy after about 24-48 hours of electrolysis. The degradation itself is probably due to extreme pH conditions rather than electrolysis itself though, so there may be ways to run a cell with slower degradation that I’m not aware of.

@@ScrapScience thank you very much 🙏👍

Thanks! Tasmania's the one.

@@ScrapScience how nice. I'm in the Covid state :P

Yeah, I'd say a cotton bridge will definitely work for most purposes, even just draping a piece of paper towel between two containers will give you pretty good separation. The gelatin stuff is pretty much overkill for most experiments, it'll just minimise the mixing of solutions to a greater degree.

@@ScrapScience have you ever used trisodium citrate for a salt bridge?

@@jamescobrien I'm afraid I haven't, nor have I heard of its use as such. Does it work?

@@ScrapScience I'm going to find out.

@@jamescobrien wont work. but it all depends on what you use it for. CaSO4+OPC 1:1 ratio is best for sulphates Gelatine is best for things that dont involve anything that can break down the gelatine. PVA + Borax painted on a plastic mesh is good for most purposes. Trisodium citrate is quite soluble so idk if it would work maybe if you mix with polymer PVC?? or PVA but id use a different organic acid salt.

It should work perfectly fine. However, I believe the dye usually gets pulled to one side of the membrane (I can't remember which, and it probably depends on the dye) and possibly leaks into solution. It's very unlikely to cause problems in terms of any reactions you're performing, but might make your solutions coloured.

@@ScrapScience awesome. Thank you for the quick response.

Yep! You sure can

@@ScrapScience thanks

Mayar Sand...………..Yeah it will work if the clay holds up. The thing about making a hydroxide from electrolysis is that electrolysis is VERY VERY VERY slow and heats up the solution. By the time you are done making your NaOH a lot of it will be converted to Na2CO3 from the CO2 in the air. CO is going to be in dissolved in the water from the air and make carbonic acid which will react with the base you make to make a carbonate. The only way to get a good yield is to do it under an inert gas like nitrogen or argon or helium...…...any gas really except carbon dioxide. LIKE I SAID IT WILL WORK but some or a lot of your product will be converted to carbonate at the end. If you are in the USA you can just buy some 100% pure NaOH at lowes…………..just in case you did not know...………...Also you can use porcelain if you sand off the paint and polish

@@jbsc6180 Will the contamination be so great even if the concentration of CO2 in the air is about 424.5 ppm (very little compared to the amount of NaOH produced)? I think this problem can be even small if you use distilled water. What do you think? I think that as the concentration of NaOH grows a lot higher than the CO2, and because the reaction between the two depends on the contact area of the solution with the CO2 gas, as well as the time of exposure, this problem can be very mitigated if we use a container that is very narrow at the top, creating a small contact area with the air, with the top being almost sealed (leaving a small aperture for H2 to escape). As the electrolysis runs, some air inside of the chamber will be substituted with H2 gas, leaving even less CO2 to contaminate the product.

It gels up on it's own

On a microscopic scale, the gelatin is just a big lattice of protein molecules that can hold water like a sponge, there is still some degree of permeability. However, macroscopically this permeability is unnoticeable. Due to this, ions are still able to traverse the membrane.

Anar huseynow…………….The ions don't have to traverse from one side to the other. Only the charge needs to traverse. Just like electricity running through a SOLID copper wire. The electrons do not move through miles of wire to get to your house but the charge does by transferring the energy from one electron to the next until it gets to your house...………….Just a guess

It is DC, something like 150V would be necessary for 0.2 A to be dangerous, 5V will not shock you even at like 40Amps

For a salt bridge? No. Ions need to be able to move through a salt bridge, and they can't do that in wax.

The more concentrated the salt solution, the better. I would assume using a near saturated solution would be best, but I’m not sure if that would affect the setting of the gelatin.

@@ScrapScience according to your experience and experiments... what is the best membrane/diaphragm to be used to produce sodium pyrochlorate

@@ahmednabriss7803 I’m not sure what you mean by ‘pyrochlorate’. Do you mean hypochlorite or simply chlorate?

@@ScrapScience sorry I meant sodium hypochlorite "NaOCl"

Ah, rightio. It really depends on what reagents you've got available. 1) If you have access to HCl and NaOH, you can electrolyse your HCl with graphite electrodes and no membrane/diaphragm to get chlorine gas off the anode (don't collect the anode/cathode gasses together as you'll form an explosive mixture). You can then bubble the chlorine gas output through some NaOH solution to get your desired NaOCl. Obviously if you have a better source of chlorine gas available to you then you can go with that. 2) If you don't have access to HCl, you can generate chlorine from NaCl by using a chloralkali cell (I'd recommend a design like this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n8B4aMlzlc-xZ4k.html which uses a clay pot separator as a diaphragm), and then bubble the chlorine through NaOH solution as before. 3) If you don't have NaOH, you can also generate that using the same chloralkali cell, and then in a second step, make chlorine to bubble through it. 4) If you only want very impure and dilute sodium hypochlorite, you can simply electrolyse a NaCl solution (no membrane/diaphragm needed) with graphite electrodes for 10 minutes at ~1 amp. The product will be contaminated with chlorate and a LOT of residual chloride though. Also, it should go without saying that if you work with chlorine, you should have extensive safety measures in place. Definitely something to do outside if you don't want permanent lung damage.

please say it in english

I’m afraid not, it seems to degrade really quickly compared to the vegetarian stuff

@@ScrapScienceand the veggie stuff is simply Agar mixed with salt(for this purpose of course) ?

@@ScrapScience sorry about the stupid questions but I'm gonna blame being tired and that youtube doesn't show all comments 😂

You can use either agar or the weird vegetable gelatin, they are different but will do the same job (when mixed with salt or sodium carbonate that is). Don't worry about asking questions either, I enjoy answering when people are interested in my videos.

@@ScrapScience yeah they made sulphuric and nitric acid unavailable for private citizens here in sweden a few years ago so it's nice to be able to make your own by electrolytic splitting.

I should say, in order to successfully synthesize sodium hydroxide?

The amount of iodide in iodised salt is incredibly small from any synthetic perspective (in this case, it's on the order of micrograms). Either way, the iodide won't actually interfere with NaOH production, as it's the movement of sodium ions that we care about (the anions involved are somewhat irrelevant).

Bro the iodine is in micrograms, that won't affect at ALL the reaction.