I just bought a new 5600. With the intent of doing a muffler mod and build a pipe for it. After testing it on 14” green frozen poplar I sure as hell don’t see the need for more power. Dolmar engineers know a thing or two about GOBS OR TORQUE !! ITS AN INCREDIBLE UNIT ! !

Dolmar is my favorite brand, hands down. It broke my heart what Makita did, buying them out and then discontinuing their best saws.

Mill the sides of the piston to match the raised lower transfers. Bevel the edge of the cases to make a little room at bdc to help flow

Wow, that's freaking crazy how tight that is, but hey, if it runs good, send it!!!!

U the man you’ll figure out something 👌👌🤘 very interesting to see what ya come up with

Hay man totally theory here but I think I would pack the crank case with play-Doh lay the gasket on for a template and lower those shelves on the crank case as far as I could without grounding through or weakening the structure. Then notch out the skirt on the piston at least half the distance of the 1/4” rim at the bottom. If that makes sense. Sit the jug on the case roll the piston to BDC through the intake, mark the piston with a pencil all the way around pull the jug and piston back off slide the piston in the jug match your marks up with the intake look and see how much you can take off of the lower transfers. I’m sure you will have some awesome ideas as well. Good luck. I hope it’s a screamer.

i have a makita ea5000p with muffler mod great saw smooth cut

Just sent my 7900 to Randy, be my 3rd saw from him, no disappointments here!!

You must be doing pretty good. I'm getting all kinds of adds before I can watch your vids

I'm thinking by opening the case up a little bit and raising the lower transfer up into the cylinder a bit has to be an improvement. I'm interested to see what you come up with.

The piston skirt over the deck flat transfer area and small crankcase means the piston more directly moves charge. Deck cut for better flow with cylinder base change, don't raise uppers too high , you don't want suck back from above the piston top. How much does the piston move upward before the top of the transfers are closed by it.

I don't know, but you have 3 saws to experiment with and the 6100 P&C coming. I'd start with getting all the stock numbers with and without base gasket. Seems like minimal case trenching to open up the lowers to transfer tunnel size wouldn't hurt.

I guess you have to decide if the little skirt on the sides of the piston will contribute to excessive wear if you cut those off and make it slab sided. Similarly making the transfers come up higher but leaving the piston could cause more wear.

At Bdc the Piston covers the Lowers. A Windowed would be nice with bigger Lowers. This Design has very low Casevolume and good precompression to get a good turbolence and better Emissions.

If you cut the cylinder side transfer port opening without moving that deck edge how will it get more flow ? The piston skirt is still blocking. Skirt to the block is tightest, like 1/3rd the gap of the deck height to cylinder transfer port cutouts.

Thanks doing that saw ihave one

Never messed with one, so not much help. Part of me says to relieve the case for the transfers. Another part of me says raise the lowers and grind the bottom of piston to match🤔 be interesting to hear from those familiar with the 5600 what to do!

Love to try 1 never even got to run 1

Yes here in Australia it is classed as a Land owner saw they retail here for AU $899.00 and it is called Makita coloured blue.,for the price you can’t beat them ,these are the last of the petrol chainsaws Makita is selling in Australia,everything is going to battery 😢

Open the cases and lower transfers to promote flow

👍🆙BigGuy

I have a makita 9000. I had a difficult time finding any info from people on that saw as far as building it. There not very common in my area.

having a parts power head there makes your risk of playing with chamfering the case lower. i'd really like to see once you figure out your direction do modifications in steps to see what works. I'm super interested in this build because I have one of these as my main work saw although new to the chainsaw world.

👍👍 don’t know diddly about makita, in general, getting rid of the strato- will run like crap. I know that much.

Don't forget german engineers

Speculation/Theory I'd personally entertain the thought of making an aluminum cylinder spacer with lower transfer cutout transitions and add some small cutouts to the cases. Then TIG some aluminum to the top of the piston and machine it down to your desired measurement and shape. Or build a stroker crank for it....

Here thx

Slightly flow the cases better on the giveaway see if you like it and then go from there. How is the piston could you shape the skirts on the side to promote a little more flow instead of case work ??

👍

Yes so you can ramp your cases just the way you want .

I hate it when you can't transfer your power to your wood! 😂

Why not lay the gasket down on the case to see if you can grind the case any!

Just my thoughts not a builder but id raise transfer ports alil an trim piston. Leave cases alone 1st go around.

6100 is a different animal. The cylinder flange is threaded and the bolts holding it on come up through the bottom of the crankcase. Hopefully the bolt pattern is the same or close enough for you to make it work.

I’ve never ran one of them and they are hard to find up here

Idk nothing. But I’d say just take the sharp edge off the shelf. Just barely touch it. Do the rest of your tricks and see how it runs then get back in there and remove that shelf and compare. I’d bet they made it like that for emissions purposes. And it probably works so good because it’s restricting flow and somewhat acting as a secondary transfer timing. To me this setup appears that the engineers designed this for you boedy to put nitrous on this saw!

Strange one there for sure!

These saws work on port velocity. You do a bunch of grinding, you'll lose torque.

Hi good Day ST ZACHARIE QUEBEC CANADA

mod the crankcase leave the cylinder

I'd leave the cylinder and cases alone and cut the sides of the piston so they're not blocking the lowers.

Is that the same as a dolmar 5100 S?

3:06 Charge comes around the sides of the piston skirt into the transfers, you can see the case is wider there, so even scooping out the case in just those two areas on the side next to the piston would increase flow into the transfers, yes some goes under the piston skirt but those side gaps are the biggest holes at BDC even with the flat deck. I would cut those two edge areas where the gap already is to make two shooters slamming two streams each side into the transfers. :-)

Comment from me 😅

They are a farm and ranch saw

Trench the cases.

Lower the head and open up the lowers be our ginnie pig boedy do it for the sake of man kind! Lol but seriously it seem's like a difficult choice if you have never faced that kind of jug but if you haven't chaces are no one else has really so i say heck give it a shot!

There a home Depot product

Those cases look like they are begging to be trenched but???