Well... Let me start by sayin that I’m currently in the process of getting myself into the Defender World, so this channel is a HUGE benefit to me. And I THANK you for that sir ✌️ Having said that... I think your videos, since you explain it so plainly ... I think your videos should be shown in Engineering classes, for all those young folks, to learn the BASIC of getting to know your engine first. In that regard... Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Stay safe everybody 😷

And the saga begins again 😍

Had the same intake oil problem on my Trooper, fitted a catch can before the aircleaner connection, all clean now.

I have phoned Miss Marples, she said she will start watching, we may need her on this one. I have read all the sensible suggestions below. Possible there is more than one thing wrong, which is why diagnostic isn't obvious. Someone said that the bores could be evenly worn by the dust from Africa roads, this is a real problem, you see snorkels in Africa a lot, it isn't always for deep water crossings, it is to get the air intake above the dust kicked up by the vehicle in front. Valve seals? Now for a curve ball. Has the engine been rebuilt with slightly undersized rings? It's a long shot but nothing surprises me about Africa. I can't believe I am suggesting it but nothing should surprise you about Africa vehicles. Are the valves not seating properly due to the wear from Africa dust? Really enjoying this one Mike.

My old 300Tdi did nearly 300,000 miles before I got rid of it, pulled OK once the turbo kicked in, but I used to flush out the intercooler every time I did a oil change!

Hi Mike 🤔 just saying thanks again for sharing this video update 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

Mike you kept me very interested in this watch.👍

Here we go again Sherlock ...... I'm going to be awake all night thinking about that compression conundrum .....

I had the same oil problem on my old j90 engine. Lots of oil in the filter - so much, I replaced the filter with a rechargeable one. Regular clearing the breather from the top to the bottom of the engine did nowt to fix the problem, and I thought it was the Turbo. I installed a catch can in the end.

Sykes Pickavant leak down tester. Puts compressed air into the tdc cylinder and the compression is indicated on the other gauge. Bubbling coolant or air passing through the breather will tell you where the problem is. Trailer Fitter Toolbox Chris Higgins has a video where he does in on a 300.

yep - I agree - rebuild the engine the transmission the transfer case - redo the interior - do a glass out repaint - replace all the seals - new tires - new shocks new springs - brakes - all new bushings - add a/c - convert to left hand drive - that is good for a start - the check for $50K is on the way

Maybe do valve clearances before compression test

These land rovers play with our heads when it comes to repairing them,mine the start relay went and the old owner didn't know where it was so they put another start relay next to the alternator,he ran new wire from the ignition. You would think if he knows how to wire up a relay he would check the old relay.

Hmm...it’s a Murdoch Mystery. This one is going to take several pots of tea and a few packets of Hobnobs to suss out 🤔

Hi Mike, I had blue smoke from my rebuilt 300 tdi, luckily I took off the air intake pipes and found oil I checked the turbo and found oil inside it was mainly leaking into the hot side so no runaway but there was a fair amount on the cold side just like yours, not saying that's the compression problem but might be a separate problem, I fitted a new cartridge ( easy two day job ) and all is fine I was beginning to think I had put the rings in wrong.

Until you install a catch can, run the breather tube under the chassis. Oil in the turbo messes up turbo bearings.

Mike, I realise that these engines are all pretty old by now, but in all the Tdi's I've been involved with over the past 15 years, I've not seen one that had what you would call an "oil free" air inlet tract anywhere downstream of that crankcase breather inlet. That seems to be just how it works, the LandRover way, spread the oils about. Thanks for yet another interesting session.

Hi Mike. For that era of vehicle I would expect the engine number to be between 33000 and 46000 if it was original

Here's a crazy thought: If there is so much oil, how much is in the intercooler? We don't know when the whole air intake piping was last cleaned. Maybe the cyclone separator is full, it dumps the oil into the piping. The intercooler is full of oil. So now you have a less efficient engine and there is smoke. As I said this is just a wild guess/hunch. Thanks again Mike for a great video.

Have you checked the valve timing isn't out by a tooth, i.e jumped?, this would drop all of the compressions by the same amount

I remember when I was a 17 year old Bonny lad doing a compression test on my 1979 1100 fiesta with the engine running, ha ha ha , happy days , young lads don’t seem to play with engines these days

Fear not good people. The mechanical 'Sherlock Holmes' is strictly on the case. 👍 This 'mind boggling' mystery, with its twist and turns will be revealed in due course. C'mon now lad, get that 'Jamisons' violin out and put us out of our misery. 😃

I think that the pressure atainable by a pump is influenced by the voume of the connector between the pump and the guage. If your long adaptor (copy of glow-plug) has a relatively large bore its volume would reduce the possible pressure that can be reached as it could be a reasonable percentage of the volume of the compression space at top dead centre. Just my two penny worth.

Hi Mike - the lowish compression and the oil in either side if the turbo could be 2 unrelated issues - oil in both intake and exhaust means either back pressure in turbo dump line, or bad turbo seals. Dont discount the cyclone unit as well. 280 is bit low but there are successful additives that will bring them all up without overhaul - see “project farm” youtube channel where he does a long term test on an additive called restore. Has the owner any history on any recent engine work? Good luck.

This is a mystery wrapped in an enigma.

I thought the smoke test was coming right after the fuses replaced.

Mike. My rule of thumb is a 2.5ltr engine should do 250,000km's before a rebuild ! As this "re-birth" 300Tdi Defender Classic has covered 180,000km's, I'd expect your figure of 273psi compression or 72% ? V.

didn't read all the other comments, but did you check the blowby? plugging the breather etc and taking off the oil filler cap to see/feel? my td5 was blowing a gale. all 5 cylinders (well i could only pressure test 4 through the plugs) were exactly the same. Took the engine out and found the cylinders were elliptical ...very slightly, but enough. it was also hard to start and had blueish smoke. Got a new block from turner engineering and rebuilt it, at the same time I fixed the turbo drain tube as it was creased and could have caused back pressure in the turbo oil--(along with the pressure in the crank case). fitted new piston rings etc ground the valves back to a nice surface (they were all crudded up with carbon from the cooked oil) starts first time really well now, no smoke, more power, and no oil in the intake. (fitted a ProVent as well just to be sure). of course you know all this stuff :). but something here might tickle a memory and you can pinpoint the trouble. (I would double check the gauge as well, and pressure it above the the current value.. i might be sticking NOW after working in the past.. it is very strange they were all exactly the same.) .... bloody hell I've rambled a bit....

What about how long the engine has idled for? Yes its done 179k but it may have also been sat idling for hours which probably does more damage. Could just be polished bores causing that little loss of compression. Amount of cross hatching left will be an indicator. 👍

Thumbs up.

Here’s a random fact I found out today on the 110s MOT (which failed for an oil leak!). There’s a numbered sticker on the bulkhead in the engine bay which is the emissions limit when it left Solihull. According to the MOT bloke all emissions tests must now meet that same number as specified (300tdi 1.89 l/m) and not the 3.00 l/m we’re used to. Luckily he took the bribe of a crate of Peroni and plugged the smoke meter into a Vauxhall corsa parked next to the Landy! He also said that if there’s no plate/sticker with an emissions stamp then they test to 3.00 l/m so his advise was to rip the sticker off. Anyone else heard of this? Just thought it was quite topical on this vid.

What did the man who’s car you’ve got instruct you to do exactly ? This would be important for the viewers to know

Mike maybe the car has done miles on a poor quality air filter or pipe has been off and it's been sucking dusty air

Maybe a badly built engine ? Original well worn bottom end and a new head slammed on ? Hmm interesting stuff I’m looking forward to this one

I can kind of hear some piston slap in one of your previous videos on this car:(

👍👍

How messed up do appearances get, if it's been bobbing around in a container on the Atlantic for a few weeks? Do fluids end up where they shouldn't but actually only temporarily? I know they probably should be drained but....

Those engines did blow head gaskets between cylinders

Another great video. I have never done a compression test on a turbo diesel before, so my question is do you leave the turbo connected or do you disconnect the turbo. I am learning a lot from your series of videos. They are great.

Have you looked at the bellhousing bolts and ancilleries? Might tell you whether this was a repair that was done years ago or if this is an engine that's been thrown in it specifically so it could be sold. If it's the latter, this could be another "ebola-rover" after all! :-/

Perhaps worth checking valve clearances? wont explain the oil, but if the valves are just a shade tight.....that would bleed off compression?

I think the excess oil being thrown out and the low compression plus it's African history point to low grade or infrequently changed oil.. bit of wear on the bores and or rings. Alternatively, could it be worn valve guides? Can you do a smoke test or leak down pressure test to see where compression is going? Can't wait for the next installment!! Thanks Mike!!

Were there multiple head gasket thicknesses? Maybe used thicker gasket for a milled head with an unmilled head, which would decrease compression

Compression testing is very rule of thumb, why not carry out a cylinder leakage test? You’ve already got your adapters. Will tell you much, much more, interesting video, best of luck.

Probably worn piston rings from dusting due to dirt particles entering entering air intake and equally wearing cylinders. A leak down tester would confirm. Even though it has low mileage.

Just a complete off tangent from the TDI, but anyone had problems with a Disco 2 air suspension go down a little in really cold weather? We had -8 last night (not been this cold for a while in the UK). Airbags, compressor and lines 2 months old!

how do you check the gasket type (2 hole?) and what should compression be

Checked a 300tdi yesterday 1cyl 400psi 2 40psi 3 40 psi 4 cyl 400 psi My old 200 TDI uses oil All cyl 320

Are 300tdi engines always that far forward of the firewall? My 2.5na is very close. Maybe a longer bellhousing? Different engine?

Hey Mike same with my 90 rebuild is inevitable....off topic tho can a voltage fluctuations on the fuel solenoid can cause misfire and how can we check that..thanks

Leak down test on each cylinder might give some direction

Is it blowing heavy blue smoke from the exhaust before it's warmed up, and is the intercooler and breather full of oil? How much did the glow plug compression adapter cost at the machine shop? I'd like to get hold of one

could it have been rebuilt before and had pistons put in that are a bit short?

I've been having an issue where my defender make a loud clunking/thudding noise when releasing the clutch pedal while changing gear (particularly upshifting) unless I am very slow and deliberate with the pedal. 1990 2.5 petrol, lt77. Any thoughts, thanks?

To see if turbo bearings have oil leakage into the outlet, could you remove the air intake hose and the exit hose, then start the engine. If the turbo is leaking oil, then it should splatter out the exit. ( Onto a piece of card perhaps) . Do you think this may be a way of testing for turbo bearings oil leak ?

Mike would it be worth trying another tester? They sound too consistent.

Mike!!! Test the tester ???? Have you got another test gauge, or can you test it on your air-line. You never know whether a bit of muck has got into the testing gear. Sorry for insulting your intelligence, but it did happen to me. I cant wait to find out yet another hidden mystery of the Land Rover. Best wishes, stay sane, Yorkshire Rob.

Take the tube of the inlett, and try again without turbo and intercooler!

Originates from Malawi, my guess is scored pistons from sand and dust inhalation

Is there any amount of smoke that is ok coming out of the oilfill Port?

Have you double checked the quage that could be faulty ?

Do a pressure test on another engine it could be the tester that’s faulty had it before.

Didn't you say in the video that the pressure was about 280 psi? Then you said you'd checked upstairs and put a caption on saying 19.03 bar. Are they not as bad as you thought? Or is it my hearing/memory?

the compression gauge needle isn't jamming at 280 is it.. :)

I got the same thing with my td5 blowing blue smoke it turned out to be leaky injector seals which was giving oil dilution with the fuel which made the fuel and oil pass by the rings which made it blow blue smoke don’t if this will be the same thing with your land rover

hello Mike, i dont think the engine has been maintained correctly, the engine oil looks like tar. so a good clean up inside the sump,new oil and a new air -cleaner to start with, has the correct oil been used in the engine ? i very much suspect clown activity with this vehicle some where along the line, good luck with it, hope the series 1 is ok.

Possibly something to do with the cam, either warn or the wrong cam?

Is it possible it’s got the wrong pistons installed, thus the lower than expected compression in each chamber?

Nope. fuckit. tried to watch it. pissed as a newt, will watch again in the morning,

Check your gauge. They are consistently down...could be?

But do you know if the compression tester is accurate - it may be reading low !

dusted engine maybe?

Valve seals?

To my untrained eye, it jumps out that ALL cylinders have the same compression reading. Is there any way that all cylinders pressures can be equalised across the board under some sort of fault condition? Something like a cylinder head gasket failure between each cylinder. Ignore me, it's past my bedtime....

Are you sure your gauge isn’t stuck on 280 and the needle won’t go further 😂

I might be deluded but I wonder if there is some obstruction in the inlet tract, that would cause a drop on all cylinders, my random guess from my calibrated armchair is that the intercooler is full of random crap and oil. Disconnect the hoses and do another compression test, I bet the engine is ok.

Have the gauge calibrated

Any blow by noted?

No chance ROW spec 300tdis had a lower compression ratio?

eric olthwate ripping yarns lol

Hmm new turbo and rings

Are you sure your gauge is accurate, just saying..

🇮🇪👍👍💕