Thanks Marty! I really appreciate your feedback on my restorations. Thanks for getting me started a couple weeks ago with some advice and for sharing your workflow in a great series of videos. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to pull off these restorations. I’m looking forward to watch many other restoration videos to come! Have a nice day and keep up the good work 😉👍

Marty it is all about your wife's toothbrush. That is the secret to your success!!

Marty has approved. There is no higher praise. You have achieved the pinnacle of success.

Marty, you are great and kind, i love your channel.

I agree with you, sir.

I like the Tamiya White Surface Primer for that exact reason! Glad you like it! Thanks!

Thanks! The repair job turned out quite good.

As a first try with the superglue and baking soda, I was quite happy with the result too. Nice to hear you like it!

I was evenly surprised by the result, to be honest 😂Thanks!

Of the many I have laying around (I mean other models), none of them have flattend end axles. It would be nice to give them a try someday. Thanks, glad you like it! 😊

Thanks! 😉

Thank you for the kind words! 😊

@@MatchboxRestoration any time! You deserve! As you can see, it's not only this ordinary diecast car collector who's saying that, but great restorers such as Marty and Time Rider! Congrats!

Thanks for the heads up! I knew it stands for "mark", but thought people also said "MK" instead. English isn't my native language, so nice to learn something! Have a nice day, Owen!

Thanks, Michael!

Cool! Make sure to check out Time Rider and Marty's Matchbox Makeovers too! They have great videos with a lot of tips and tricks too! Good luck!

Thanks, Jeff! Have a nice day!

Thanks Brian! Nice to hear you like my work!

Thanks, Martin! I love watching other restorations too. Everyone has their idea's and tricks. Great to learn from!

Thank you, Jim!

Thanks!

Thanks, Cornelis!

Thanks!

Thanks for the advice! I'll look into it! Check out my other vids too!

Thanks! From what I found, it's indeed a later version of the casting. I was very pleased with how the repair turned out. A bit hesitant to put the axles back on, because I thought the vibrations from the drill press would break the repair part. But it withstood the handling and turned out great! Good luck with the trailer repair! Have a nice day! 😉

Thank you, Timothy!

Bedankt voor de tip van de verfmixer. De paintbooth is in aanbouw ;-)

Thanks, Chris! 😉

Thanks, glad you like it!

This one was also in fairly rough shape, but it is also one the oldest I have in my Matchbox Vault. Thanks for the kind words and good luck on finding this model. It is a nice one to have!

Great advice! I wouldn't have thought that would actually work. I might try this in the future. Thank you!

@@MatchboxRestoration It only works with the super thin superglue. I get mine off ebay, Bob Smith industries insta cure super thin. If you use normal thickness or gell, it does not work. Besides, this stuff is the real deal, the stick your fingers together kind, not the weakened stuff they sell in most stores. Marty has tried it, and it worked for him too. You can also use an epoxy putty, which I think I've seen you use before... or JB weld, but I have not had as much success with JB weld as I have the super glue and soda thing. It's tough, they normally use it to fill divots and seal up cracks in carbon fiber helicopter blades, real helicopters, not models or the like, so it does take a beating and keep on going. you can sand, file and shape it all you want, but just for a belt and suspenders type of security, if it's where it won't readily show, I make gussets or buttresses to hold it in place, one time I even made flying buttresses because something had to go through the area I wanted to put the buttress. Oh, there is a new low melt soldet that will fill in on zinc, but there is also a modelers putty to use like you might use bondo on a real car to take out the imperfections like on that bug's bonnet or trunk whichever way you look at that.

Thanks! I’ll look into it!

Thanks! Stay tuned!

Thanks! I'll put some of those models in the queue 😉

Thank you, Paul! Stay tuned for more!

Thank you Pat!

Thanks, Nigel!

True, I did put the axles back the way they originally came in at first, but through the restorations, I noticed they don’t always were placed the same way. So I randomly put them back on the model now. Do you think I should put them back as they originally came in?

@@MatchboxRestoration No, very few originals have the axles put in from the same direction, usually it's one each way.

Thanks, Martin!

Thanks, Darrin!

Thanks, Time Rider! 😎

Thank you Raymond!

Haha, that happens all the time 😂

Thanks, David!

Thanks! :)

Thanks, Eric!

Leuk om te horen dat je de video fijn vindt. Dit zijn echte teletijdmachientjes. Fijn om aan te werken!

Thanks, Ben. I found out the placement of the base is crucial to fit the ramp properly. On my casting, the lips that are behind the ramp (inside) are a bit worn out, so the ramp sits in place nicely, but won't need much to get loose from the model. That's probably why almost all remaining ones have the ramp missing in the first place 😅

@@MatchboxRestorationthanks. I'll bear that in mind when I mess around with it. Overall it is a very nice casting. The horsebox itself has a lot of detail.

@@benday1218 Good luck with the restoration! 👍

Thanks! 😊

Thanks, Jerry!

Thank you! I needed Google Translate for this, but thank you very much 😉Спасибо

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks Emmanuel! Glad you like it! Would you rather put the axles back like they were originally? Let me know what you think 😉

It was used on several earlier models before using the rivet posts.

I’m from Belgium. I have a chrome pen laying around which I’ll probably use in a future restoration video. 😉

Thanks Willie!

That's spot on! Nice find!

@@MatchboxRestoration Thanks for your videos. I have a Hoveringham Tipper #17 I'm about to try and restore.

Dank je, Woutje!

Thanks!

Wow, that's one big collection! I have a couple in my Matchbox Vault, but I'll need more when they are done 😇

Stay tuned 😊

Thanks, Steven!

I have a liquid chrome pen laying around, but I can't get the "paint" out of the pen like Marty does. Might have to look further 😉

Good advice, thanks!

Thanks! I did. At first I always mounted them the same as my previous restorations, until I figured out they fit them randomly at the factory too. I like the aspect of having them randomly fitted. I don't think one way looks better than the other. What do you think?

Thanks, John! 👍Good to go again!

I did make a banger racing type of car out of a model. But apart from that, I have always tried to match the original as close as possible. It’s a personal preference, not something I think is “the right way”. Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks for the advice! I’ll look into it. Thanks for taking the time to help me out! 😉

Yes. The super baking soda method does have its drawbacks. It tends to break out, given enough time. For details that don't get much handling, fine. But for something like a axel mount, stronger solutions are needed

Thanks! Stay tuned for more 👍

You know this is the result of bribery Marty's wife just received two dozen new toothbrushes.

I got one laying around. I'll use it on my next one 😉

Remington T800 Thanks!

Thanks a lot! Glad you like it!

Thanks for the advice! 👍

How do you mean "different"? The one end of the axle is untouched, the other one gets a new "lip" to hold the wheel on. I try to make them look as much like they came originally.

@@MatchboxRestoration hi I did not mean to insult you. What I ment was, the side of the axle that you made a lip on appears bigger in diameter than the other side.

No problem, I didn’t take your comment as an insult 😉 I just wanted to point out that I didn’t create the big hubs, they were like that. The smaller hubs are the ones I made with the drill press.

Thank you!

I put on glue and dip it into the soda and repeat that process. But many here have said I need to use thinner glue for this to work properly. Some also suggest using 2 part epoxy putty. I’ll have to check out what works best.

The bigger ones are original ones. I created the smaller side. These always come with one larger than the other. Only on this model, with its small wheel diameter it kind of looks weird 😅

Haha, I might be just a poor peasant then 😂

Haha, Austin 😂 Thanks for the kind words. Marty was the inspiration to start doing this, so he's responsible 😉

Thanks Michel!

It’s actually the place where I glue the screw that I use to hold the casting while painting 😇 Thanks!

mauro vermassen Ik heb een mail verstuurd met m’n bestelling en kreeg dan een Paypal verzoek om te betalen.

Les grandes, je ne touche pas. Ce sont les petits que je refais, donc ils sont different. Merci!

I have an FPV Racing channel under the name of JaZzMaN251. But those are mostly flight videos without narration. Thanks! 😉

I’ll fit the axles as they originally were fitted in my next restorations 😉 Thanks!

Actually, that's not accurate. I just looked at a dozen of my untouched castings and a few are as you say but the vast majority have a large and a small on each side. Nick, you just put them together as you see fit. This one looks fine.