Thanks, that’s really nice to hear!

Thanks! I appreciate hearing that.

andrew french Thanks, I really appreciate feedback like this.

I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks for your support.

Guy Aldrich Thanks for watching & commenting!(-:

Vince Morgan Yeah I don’t like that way, also lots of chances to suck air thru the pump doing it that way. Thanks for watching!

Yes That is what I did. I would not undo the lines to flush. That could cause problems later. Don't flush a high mileage transmission or it may start slipping later. Just use the pan with a drain plug and drain and refill later.

MisterTracks Thanks!(-:

I’m glad you found it helpful.

@@CarswithNash I am just in awe of what you do. I'm not saying I will do this kind of thing myself but just to have an understanding of what goes on underneath the bonnet of my PT Cruiser is invaluable. Thanks again.

@@robtownsend3317 Thanks, I really appreciate hearing that!

Thanks for the feedback, you’re welcome!(-:

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback.

@@CarswithNash Just found you I’m a PT cruiser freak I have four of them I’m gonna watch all your videos love the content 👍👍💯🙌🙌🇺🇸🇺🇸

Sementinha de Luz 1 Thanks for the feedback.

802 Garage Yeah someone else pointed that out too, that would be better. I was in a real rush when I did these videos so I did it the easy way, that’s why I left the part in when I explained the flow thru the cooler.

@@CarswithNash It's def no big thang. Just figured I'd mention. You do good work!

Carlos Marquez Sorry I changed both our manual PT’s right before starting to make vids for youtube... not sure when the opportunity will come up to do one again but if I do I certainly will make a video on it.

I don’t know if you noticed but I do have an entire playlist of PT cruiser repairs and this car is featured in many of them. It’s unlikely we would be selling it, my mom drives this car every day and she loves it.

@@CarswithNash DeX

Alejandro Martínez Clean fluid is always best, although it sounds like your transmission might be on it’s way out regardless... I know the Lucas “stop slip” really does work, I’ve used it in some beater cars before with great results actually. A rebuild is the better fix but if your just looking to buy some time that stuff will normally help.

@@CarswithNashThank you very much! I'll put my hands into it then :D

Thanks! It’s so much nicer the next time I go to do some thing and I don’t have to fight a bunch of dirt and grease to get to what I want.

Thanks for the sub! It does depend a little on your driving conditions, if mostly city driving then 30k would be a nice interval, but if you drive mostly on the HWY then 50k would be fine. Personally I like to keep a check on the condition of the fluid just by what’s on the stick and if I notice it turning from the normal red color to a light brown then I will change it regardless of miles.

​@@CarswithNash Alrighty! Thanks!

Unfortunately we never got that engine option in the PT Cruiser here in North America. “Stick” transmission? So it’s a manual? If so it just has a fill and drain plug, very simple to do those. If it’s an automatic it’s probably going to be very similar to what I showed in the video.

Yes because that is what the pan is designed for and that’s what Chrysler used at the factory also, gaskets leak and the RTV doesn’t.

Daniel Morales Nope, but Lucas “Stop Slip” works very well for that.

@@CarswithNash thanks! ill look into it

Did you check the fluid level? Is it making any bad sounds?

Yeah the RTV doesn’t have to be cured to hold back the ATF as long as the flange is perfectly dry when the RTV contacts it. I put the pan up and hold it while I get all the bolts started it and keep holding till I get them all snugged up a little. I normally wait a bit to fill the pan but you don’t have to, I worked in a transmission shop for a while and we would fill the pan the second we had it on.

@@CarswithNash thank you!

​ @Matt's Garage Can you tell me what the 4 or 5 small bolts are above the transmission pan at the front of the vehicle are? Maybe 8mm. They are perpendicular to how the pan bolts are oriented. I can see the threads on them barely. Could it ever leak from those?

It must be running, the level when it’s off would be much higher, but that is not how you measure it, you have to have it running so the pump in the transmission is running and circulating the fluid and that’s where you measure the level.

@@CarswithNash Thank you 👍

James Goad Very important, although your engine may survive a broken belt, it may also bend a valve, valve to piston contact is not possible but valve to valve contact is. I recommend you do it early around 75k miles (120,000kms) and change the water pump and cam & crank oil seals at the same time. Often mechanics will tell you the seals are fine because they aren’t leaking, but trust me if you don’t change them they will leak before the next belt change is due.

No you don’t want to do that because there is a lot of debris on the bottom of the pan that you want to clean off before you do that otherwise it can suck into the filter or worse. That’s exactly what the quick lubes do, they hook a power flusher to the cooler line and just suck everything through and normally the transmission fails about a week later.

@@CarswithNash I talking about with the engine running like your doing to flush,then you pull the pan and change the filter ! I am not saying just flushing ! I'm just thinking if I could drain the pan before pulling it and changing the filter,it would be easier and less messy !What size hose extension are you using ?

@@guyaldrich5878 Yeah I knew what you meant but that is still drawing fluid faster than it typically does because the line is open, maybe I’m being paranoid but I have cut open those filters before and found debris right in the middle of them which tells me stuff can make it through them.

@@CarswithNash I guess better to be paranoidc than ruin a transmission !

What makes transmission move slowly

Nearly, the only difference is the transmission cooler sits down below the A/C condenser on a non-turbo, it’s actually easier to access than what you see here, you should be able to get at those lines from under the car.

@@CarswithNash thank you

Yes it will break very quickly without ATF (oil), be sure it is filled prior to starting your car. I recommend rewatching the video because I feel like you missed a step, I had ATF in it any time I had the car running in the video.

@@CarswithNash ok, i know everything thanks :)

Years ago Chrysler put plugs in their torque converters, made it a lot easier to drain completely. Well there's always the valve body that has a bit in it. I get the Mopar ATF 4 along with Walmarts ATF4. I start with the walmart atf and then finish with the mopar atf. On my vans I replaced the pans and put in drain plug pans for ease of service. Varsol is an ExxonMobil product and you don't see it here in the states. I use alcohol to clean the pan sealing surface. I also use pan gaskets on my automatics I put silicon on the gaskets and they don't leak. I do two bolts too one on the bottom one on the top then snug to hold the pan then put all the bolts in then tighten one on top one on the bottom on on the right and on on the left and go around until they are all snug then go back over them the next day if there is time and then fill. I disconnect the return line at the transmission that way I am flushing out the cooler. The reason I use the Super Tech ATF to do the flush is because it's less than 5 dollars a quart. Once I've seen the fluid is clean then I switch to the Mopar ATF. great video Pal. Happy Motoring.

MostlymoparIH Yeah the old Ford C6’s had a drain plug in the torque converter too, wish they all did, guess they wouldn’t wanna make home service work too easy...😉 Thanks for the heads up on the Varsol... not even sure what else to call it honestly...? I often will use brake clean for the final wipe but I was out when I did this so I just wiped it dry really good. Yeah that makes sense using the cheap stuff to flush, here I think the difference between the Mopar and cheap is less, it’s more like $7 a liter here for cheap stuff & $9-$10 for the real deal. If you ever put a GM pan on their bolt holes are very sloppy, so if you snug it tight before all the bolts are in you’ll end up not being able to get some in (ask me how I know lol), probably not so much an issue on a Chrysler pan but I’ve got into a habit of doing it like that so I don’t have any issues. GM also likes to put drain plugs in that don’t work (they spin on the backside when you try to loosen them, then they just drip but never come out). Thanks for watching & your feedback Martin, you have a great weekend.

@@CarswithNash At one point I thought of drilling a hole in my torque converter and taping it to put a drain plug in. Wasn't sure if the plug would throw the convertor out of balance on the fly. I used to call that stuff Varsol too but that's because my dad worked for Exxon and I would get some of the test samples that they were going to scrap.

MostlymoparIH Yeah I think that would be a risky move trying to add a drain.

@@CarswithNash Then start with an old car that has a ton of miles on it just to see if it doesn't affect the balance. It was so much easier back then, drop the pan then pull the plug. If I try it I will let you know.

Eaub Felangy I mean really though! I swear someone thought they had to use the entire tube up on there!😂