Thanks a lot brother! That means a lot to us!

That's great to hear!

Thanks man! Happy to hear it went smoothly for ya

Alex Lechner Thanks! I'm glad we could be of help☺

I know this is 6 years late but where did you find the manual? I need to replace timing and would like to have this reference when I do need to.

how’d it go ?

Thanks a lot :)

I know man it's insane, and it drives so much smoother.

Thanks! We're glad you find it useful :) Let us know if you have any questions when you start

Thanks! That should be awesome:)

Beautiful

Glad to help out;)

Alexis Thanks eh!

How did you get on with this job mate?Any issues?

Interested in how it went

Happy to help;)

Thanks bro.....i just couldnt stand watching this whole video

Working with what we have ;)

Thank you :)

Tbh I don't think the chain stretches. It's just the worn out VVT causing excessive slack. And yeah! Why do the job twice right!

Janet Bostock If u have any questions let us know:)

There are three on the crank and one for each cam sprocket

We used a Land Rover spanner tool, we posted the part number and measurements of it on our instagram page :)

Omg weirdos on these busses lol. I checked and rechecked timing was tits everytime tensionwas good and i get everything back on with coulple pulleys andbolts left over. I start it and immediately hear either chain slapping valve cover or the vvt sprocket was getting actuated by some rtv that i got all over instslling cover. Chain tension seems really tight so no way that it was slapping any cover. I am going to take hpfp off again to install trusty cam locker. Tool and set timing again. Will update with results.

@@evergreenpnw2532update?

Thanks man! As long as there isn't actual debris on the friction washer surface, you should be ok. Spraying some brake/parts cleaner on them and allowing it to evaporate won't cause any harm in my opinion, but I do think it's better to just leave them dry, and avoid touching the surface with your fingers

Thanks man! Who knows what the future holds. I plan on keeping this car for a long time. They're so fun:)

Yes the engine will then need to be re-timed

The VVT actuator has oil chambers inside it to advance valve timing, so the outer gear on the VVT can rotate slightly independently of the intake camshaft.

Edgeautosport sells the Timing chain replacement kit, as well as the 'Massive Speed System' Timing tool kit. The replacement kit does not come with an exhaust cam bolt or friction washer, as the procedure does not require you to loosen the exhaust cam. The only problem with not loosening the exhaust cam, is that evening out chain tension as depicted in the video is near impossible. I would highly recommend ordering the exhaust cam bolt and friction washer for this reason. Here's the link for the Timing chain replacement kit which gives you the option to select whether you want to add the 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit :) edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

For the initial torqueing we used a bolt that threads through the crank pulley and into the timing cover. Then for the additional 90 degrees we removed that small bolt to prevent potential damage to the timing cover, and used a counter hold tool (part number LRT-12-093) with two nuts and bolts. This is not a Mazda specialty tool and any spanner of similar design will do the job. Please note that during the final 90 degrees, all timing tools need to be removed. This included the cam locking plate, TDC pin, and crank pulley centering bolt to prevent damage :)

Sorry to hear man. Before starting any disassembly, the engine should be set to TDC first. Then when loosening the crankshaft bolt u want to use some sort of counter hold against the pulley, and have all timing tools removed to prevent damaging anything. Thanks :)

You could try a large vice grip plier, and yes it is loosened counter clockwise :)

mashmallow The position does not matter from what I've read. Although it's good practice to mentally note the general position of the old one while at TDC, to install the new one in a similar position :)

You're welcome! Glad you found it useful:) The reason for removing the cam locking plate and crankshaft TDC pin before tightening the crank bolt an additional 90 degrees, is to prevent cracking the camshafts, damaging the block, and damaging the special tools. When the crank bolt is initially tightened to 75-80 ft lbs of torque, we found that it is tight enough to promote enough friction to ensure that the cams will also rotate if the crank rotates when the crank bolt is tightened an additional 90 degrees which keeps the engine in time. To prevent shearing the small bolt that fits through the crank pulley hole into the timing cover, we removed it and used a suitable crank pulley counter hold for the additional 90 degrees. This also minimizes the amount of crankshaft rotation. The power of friction!

Wannabe Tuners ah got ya, litteraly just fired the car up and it runs perfect. If ya hit any issues with a Chrysler product let me know haha.

Will do brother! Thanks

@@WannabeTuners Hi, I am really new to all of this, but I am about to remove the timing chain to replace the head gasket, how can you damage the block if you leave the cam locking plate? What could be the worst case scenario? Thank you so much for your videos!

Yeah for sure! Thanks man:)

Wannabe Tuners Thank you!

I would say yes. That's the early signs of a worn out vvt actuator.

shane walsh Right on! Labor cost is always going to be a big factor :)

Wannabe Tuners. Plus another 1000 for decarbonnig because of Engine missfire codes 302.303.But I still luv the car it really is quick and very stable Great channel guys

shane walsh Thanks man! These engines are dirty in so many ways lol

We purchased timing tools specific to this engine. If the ecoboost 2.3 liter doesn't use keyways, I'm sure the process will be nearly identical. You'd just have to find out where to buy the timing tools specific to your engine

Here is a link to where I bought my parts:edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-vvt-replacement-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/ I would recommend buying an additional friction washer for the exhaust sprocket as well:) The camshaft bolts can be reused but I replaced mine anyways. They also sell the timing tools. Hope that helps!

It could be the vvt actuator. Are you getting a check engine light? Or any fault codes?

They are bad from factory on the mazda 2.3 MZR disi turbo. Mazda had a recall period to correct the the issue with a revised vvt actuator free of charge, but it is no longer covered and most people don't really look for recall info on their cars so there are a lot of these motors out there that still need the updated part.

Good question. It actually doesn't matter which orientation the locking pin on the VVT actuator is in while set at TDC.

Hey thanks man! We primed the fuel system by turning the key to the on position a few times, although it may stutter at start up because there is still air on the high pressure side of the fuel system. This is normal. The orientation of the VVT does not matter. I too have read up on this, and it seems that the only reason it is recommended to have the orientation the same is when you are only changing the VVT out, and not loosening the exhaust cam. Many have not installed it in the same orientation and are problem free! Either way, we made a mark on the old VVT, and transferred it over to the new one just in case.

Hi WT, Oh, cool, I'll prime it a few times before cranking the engine. I discovered another procedure from the Mazda Forum (www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/how-vvt-140986/) and noticed that they too installed the VVT actuator in the same position as you did which leads me to believe it's probably ok, but as you mention it does not matter. I wondered if the holes (4) in the actuator aligned with those on the end of the camshaft facing out radially (not the ones pointing out horizontally), but they don't appear to be based on how the original VVT was installed from the factory. Another question though as I am at the point to run the crankshaft bolt the additional 90° after having torqued it to 75 ft-lbf. I'd say I've gotten it to ~45° judging where it is now, but it's getting to the point where it is getting harder to turn the breaker bar and mind you that I am using my leg against the bar sitting on the ground. I was thinking of using a sledge and hit the breaker bar just right to mimic an impact gun or drill method. Would you mind giving some tips in how you got yours to turn to the 90° point? One other comment or suggestion: I was able to take the fuel pump off without disconnecting it from the housing which covers the outer lobe of the intake camshaft. This way you don't need to bother with the spring which I believe goes to the piston where the lobe contacts and only have to replace L3K9-10-193 and not the o-ring (unless it leaked at this juncture and was needed to be replaced also). Thanks! Jeff

Hey sorry for the late response, hopefully it all went well:) For the 90 degree's, I just used my body weight with a breaker bar and turned it in small increments. Not all at once. This is definitely the hardest part of the job because a lot of force is required to turn it the additional 90 degree's. For the fuel pump removal, that sounds like a good idea, that way you're not fighting the spring on the fuel pump piston.

Hi, No worries, eventually I figured I needed to change two things in getting the extra 45°. First, I realized that the pulley rotated slightly based on how the pulley holder was positioned. Rotated it 180° where it appeared to be having a better grip resting towards the front of the chassis rather than the rear. Secondly, the breaker bar didn't quite provide the leverage needed since it wasn't a long one. I ended up cranking my torque wrench all the way up which then provided the leverage needed since it was much longer than the BB. Again, used my legs seated on the ground and stepped down on the torque wrench and got there incrementally. So, the car started upon cranking it once! Kinda sputtered for a little bit as you mentioned, but no more rattling noise or ticking heard. The scanner codes P0011 and P0016 were still there after I took it for a test drive and since they were permanent I wasn't able to clear them. Scanner guide explanation is that only the car can erase them which happened sometime the next day. One rookie mistake was not to replace the clamp on a coolant hose that runs on the bottom of the fuel pump. Needless to say, coolant started leaking after the engine got up to temperature, but after replacing the clamp, problem was fixed. Honestly speaking, I don't think I would have been able to do this job without your help. I am glad I found your video which assisted me quite a bit to get the car fixed. The timing chain wasn't stretched that much, but the VVT actuator definitely needed to be replaced since the round part popped out and is now somewhere in the oil pan. Aside from being short a few tools and getting parts at a decent price (online at Cox Mazda located in Bradenton, FL) this job was well worth the effort in getting it done by myself instead of spending $$ at the dealer. I think now I'll have a few rum and Cokes to celebrate:) I hope I can call upon you guys in the future with any future mechanical jobs on my Mazda. Thanks again! JN

Hahaha thanks man, I'm happy it all worked out for you:D

Just out of the Toronto area!

The harder option would be to remove the camshafts which ensure all valves are closed as you rotate the crankshaft to TDC. Then you can re-install the cams into the correct position. The other easier option is to try and rotate the crankshaft so that the all the pistons are roughly halfway down the cylinders, adjust the cams into position, then adjust the crank. That's why it's a good idea to set the engine at TDC prior to taking the timing components apart, because otherwise the cams and crank can be totally out of sink causing potential piston to valve contact when rotating the crankshaft to the TDC position.

@@WannabeTuners than you so much guys I did the second option and it worked! So thank you so much for your videos and all the help and information !

@@mikeup91 Your very welcome! Glad it worked out :)

MrGov666 We just pryed it out slowly with a screw driver and lightly hammered the new one in. I'm sure there's a special tool for it, but it's not necessary. As long as it sits flush with the timing cover and doesn't leak :) just make sure the circular spring that runs along the inside doesn't fall out or it will for sure leak as there won't be any more tension.

If all the timing tools line back up after rotating the engine over 720 degrees, than you should be good

The resistance you feel is from the compression inside the cylinders on the compression stroke

@@WannabeTuners awesome, thanks so much for confirming.

Fuel pump to put the timing tool in, and no need to remove the intake

Thanks man! The pressure in the fuel rail will be pretty high after engine shutdown. You can relieve the pressure by just cracking the high pressure fuel line loose at the high pressure fuel pump. The fuel spray will not be substantial but safety glasses should be used. Unfortunately we have never removed the head on this engine, but if and when we do, we will definitely make a video ;)

@@WannabeTuners thanks guys! Another question for ya- do you think the turbo will have to completely be removed to get the head off? Or will taking out the manifold bolts do?

@@craigzilla100 No the turbo and manifold have to be completely removed imo. There are too many coolant and oil lines as well as a support bracket for the turbo. Even with all that removed, I don't think the exhaust piping will allow for the manifold to be pushed back far enough off the exhaust studs on the head

@@WannabeTuners good to know. I appreciate it guys. Your channel is valued!

@@craigzilla100 Thanks man we're happy it helps the community

Thanks man!

There is no specific orientation for the VVT actuator that I am aware of because oil encapsulates it evenly

The VVT sprocket should already be in the locked position naturally when installing it. If it isn't, it is worn out and should be replaced

@@WannabeTuners Ok great, Thank you for your reply.

@@stevengrappy8664 You're welcome :)

Is vvti sprocket orientation critical?

If it's leaking from the timing cover you'll have to take the valve cover off, set the cams and crank to TDC, take the timing cover back off, and re-seal it.

I would double check all electrical connections. Are there any stored fault codes?

Yep you'll notice that when the camshaft locking plate is installed, if the cams are in the correct orientation, the cam lobes on the intake and exhaust cams will be facing each other at 45 degrees on cylinder 1

Edgeautosport.com

Yes it's the same concept with the friction washers, although the timing tools may be different:)

There is no keyway on the crankshaft or the cams, the only thing that prevents everything from slipping out of time are the friction washers and tightening those bolts down to the correct torque spec. It is a very unique design that was probably intended to cut production costs. A lot of people rebuilding their engines with forged internals will get the crankshaft and sprockets keyed just in case, however the friction washer setup has been shown to handle quite a lot of power (from what I've read people have made up to 500 hp without a keyed crank). Imo if your rebuilding and forging the engine, it's better to get the crank keyed as there are no downsides to doing so :)

I borrowed it from a tech at a dealership, but the other option is to get a pulley holder/counterhold from partsource (autozone). I have also heard of some guys welding their own but yea it was hard to find one. Not sure if Mazda has a special tool for this.

You can find everything on edgeautosport.com

Or I should ask, where did you obtain them?

Got them from Edgeautosport.com when buying the timing chain kit.

We snugged the intake and exhaust cam bolts with the plate installed while counterholding each cam to ensure both cams are synched to eachother. Then, for the final tightening we removed the plate and tightened while also counter holding. Once the crank pulley is torqued at TDC, we rotated the engine over 720 degrees and verified that all timing tools fit back in place. Any other questions let us know :)

If the job has never been done before, or you don't know the history on the car, I would replace it :)

It's not necessary, but it allows for us to rotate the timing drive assembly to even out the tension on the chain

The only reason we did the job a second time was to ensure that we evened out the chain tension. It was more for peace of mind. It had no issues otherwise.

@@WannabeTuners ok thank you.

It currently has about 146,000 kms (91,000 miles) on it :)

Hey man I ordered the timing chain kit from edgeautosport.com and there is an option to have them include the timing tools such as the crank shaft pin and cam locking plate. I think the brand name is 'Massive' timing tools. I would also recommend buying an additional camshaft bolt and friction washer for the exhaust cam in order to even out the chain tension when putting it back together. Also might as well replace the oil pump tensioner and guide since your in there. Hope that helps:)

Edit* It's called 'Massive Speed System' timing tool kit for the mazdaspeed 3/6

As for the car, it's running great! No issues whatsoever and is still in the tuning process. I'm hoping to settle at around 350whp/wtq when all is said and done for longevity

The engine uses friction washers only to keep the camshafts and crankshaft timed together. They need to be in the correct positions prior to tightening them down

The orientation of the cam sprockets does not matter, so long as the cams themselves are in the correct positions using the timing tools. Since there aren't any keyways, the goal is to even out the chain tension as much as possible before tightening the sprockets. The friction washers keep the cams and crankshaft in time with eachother.

@@WannabeTuners makes perfect sense. Thank you so much for the reply. Starting today wish me luck haha.

@@chrisdutcher9565 Good luck brother!

Both sides are not the same for the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side with more lip faces out, away from the engine. The crank sprocket for the oil pump is the same on both sides and can be installed either way :)

Tbh I wouldn't have because I've heard that this can mess with torque readings, but if the engine hasn't had any issues then it should be fine :)

@@WannabeTuners thanks guys hopefully it won’t have issues

There's a good chance the engine would slip out of time and pistons would smash into valves

snowblind5151 Maybe the cams need to be rotated slightly. We had an issue where we didn't set it to TDC before removing the chain. Then when we rotated the crank to find TDC, the pistons would contact the valves.

I have my timing cover still on and chain still on .I thought I could just set the timing, but it looks like I have to take that chain off .Maybe it jumped some teeth .I was going to take the oil pan off first ,or should I take the timing cover off?

I had already set the timing top and bottom , when I hand cranked it , there were no obstructions . When I tried starting it the bolt came loose again and then I developed this obstruction when I went to reset the cams. Then the crank didn't fully turn WHEN I tried setting that. The motor only turned like twice brfore the crank bolt came loose . With my cams set tdc I still cant crank all the way. its hitting , I tried different positions with my cams to rotate that crank. It wont turn all the way when cams are TDC or anywhere. Gotta be a ROD

sorry i did see the cams plate and the sst which holds the crankshaft counterweight

The crankshaft has a total of 3 friction washers, and the camshaft sprockets each have 1 friction washer

Where can I find the friction washers to get them

It's just to prevent damaging the camshafts and or cam locking plate in the event that the camshafts are not being properly counterheld

Gotcha, thanks for the detailed video!