Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Also, thanks for adding the note that the pump is different for the e85 model…several folks have asked what was the part number used for the non flex fuel ones as the one they purchased did not look the same . All the best ! Steve

Thanks for the compliment on the video…do try to show most every step in the diagnosis so folks can see if their issue is similar and then how to check. For sure the technology in the newer vehicles sometimes masks a basic mechanical issue that can be difficult to determine. I seems like the dealers rely on the computer systems to tell them what the issue is and when there are no codes being thrown, it gets a much higher initial estimate as they have to actually diagnose the issue vs. just replacing what the computer says is causing the issue. You are correct that I grew up playing with anything motor or vehicle related, lol ! The scanners, code readers, and communication interfaces are a huge help and I too rely on them heavily (especially for my BMWs), but when it’s an issue that is not being tracked by the vehicles computer (or in this case I didn’t have one for the Mercedes), they are of little or no use. At that point it’s back to the basics of having air, fuel, compression, and being timed correctly. Thanks again for the kind words, it’s good to know that the level of detail in the videos is a benefit 👍. All the best ! Steve

I actually have an E500 and an E550. The issue I'm having currently is with my E500. Crank, no start. Some of the information I posted is a little bit "off" as to someone who actually owns an MB will correct me that there is a fuel pump + sender unit (fuel filter) which are 2 separate parts that sit on 2 separate sides of the tank. Atleast for the E class from 03-09. I mention this because I want to clarify for anyone who might drill me for saying I tested the fuel pump connector harness and jumpered it with a with a wire when it actually connects to the "sender unit" that is attached to the fuel pump. Again, this will only matter to anyone who is an mb owner or might want to understand my diagnostic process a bit more so I wanted to correct that real quick. Okay I'm done with that. But Thomas Saylor, what was your experience/symptoms on your S550? The E550 and S550 have the same engines and HP so a lot of things should be similar outside of the body/chassis if I'm not mistaken.

Thanks man 👍. Yep, I’m not much on doing things twice if I can help it…especially if it’s a visiting vehicle to the shop (this was one of my son’s friend’s grandmothers car so we for sure don’t want little old grandmas breaking down lol). Thanks again and all the best !

Hello, thanks for the comments and glad the video was helpful 👍. Hopefully the aftermarket one will do fine (I also used an aftermarket one from a website called Partsgeeks that was around $140 if I remember right). So far there’s been no issues with it as well 🤞🤞. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Thanks and glad the video helped a bit with the how the pump is powered 👍. Hopefully you’ll get it figured out and back to working again. All the best ! Steve

Actually, it did. It was a step along the path to victory ✌️ turns out the fuel filter has an electrical connection on it in the tank and that connection was either loose or contaminated with fuel or both causing the fuel system to shut off the fuel pump.

Thanks 👍. Yep, I got lucky that it was fuel related and was just the fuel pump for sure. All the best ! Steve.

Thanks man and glad the video helped a bit 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks man ! Glad the video was helpful 👍. All the best ! Steve

I think a lot depends on if the connector is burnt or not where the wiring connects above the pump…I’m not a big fan of having overheated wires on top of a tank full of fuel honestly lol ! I would probably always just change out the complete assembly unless I could find the pump and wiring connection as a kit or something…just my opinion though.

Thanks and glad the video helped out some 👍. All the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs thanks Steve you saved me time and money

Thanks man and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks man ! Hope the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Glad the videos help some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Glad the video helped some with determining what the issue was 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hey man ! I wasn’t real sure if the issue was with the fuel system or the ignition on this one (I don’t normally work on Mercedes) so I don’t have a scanner. I figured I’d check the basics first for the motor to run so I started with checking fuel pressure (fortunately it was indeed fuel related so I didn’t have to diagnose the ignition ). You are right that if I had been able to narrow it down to the fuel system prior to checking the pressure, it would have been good to check the relay and fuse then the pump continuity by probing the wires 👍. Thanks for the comment as it may help someone else out and all the best ! Steve

Where would the fuse be at I replace the black square under the back seat. There is another one? If so where thanks on a 2000 e320

Thanks ! Glad the video was helpful 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks man ! All the best ! Steve

Hello, yep, I thought about noting the pump part number, but seemed to vary from year to year on these so I didn’t want to confuse folks that might not be working on the same year or model.

Hello, for the rubber hose that was in the way of the Schrader valve fitting, I didn’t connect it back to check for the fuel pressure as I was guessing it wasn’t going to try to start. If it had tried to fire, I would have definitely needed to connect it back as I believe it went to the intake as part of the crankcase vent system and would have made the motor run really rough if left disconnected.

@@StevesDIYs ok. so when i personally do this on mine, I should reconnect that, right? Then with the guage on the Schrader valve, I'll be able to see the fuel pressure while the engine is running? This would be the proper way of testing the Fuel Pressure?

@MiOEvO hey again, yes, if you are running the motor with the gage connected to the Schrader Valve, the rubber hose would need to be connected 👍. Just be sure to check that the connection to the schrader valve is tight and not dripping fuel as that could be bad to drip fuel onto the motor with it running. All the best ! Steve

Hello, if it’s fuel related, that sounds like it could be a stopped up fuel filter. I’d check the fuel pressure with a gage (like I did in the video) and watch to see if the pressure starts dropping down as the motor stalls. If the pressure stays up, but the motor still stalls, them it will probably be something with the ignition causing the it to loose spark once the motor begins to warm up.

Hello, unless it had a defect, I would think one would go bad in just two years…especially if an OEM pump was used by Mercedes to replace with. If you remove the rear seat and access cover can hear (or feel ) the pump run when you are cranking the car, then it could be that the supply line to the pump has a hole on it or has popped off the connector. If it did actually go bad, then I’d say it must have been a defective pump.

Hello, it’s possible that the relay is bad for sure, but it might be something simple like the fuel feeder tube popped back off of the pump or something after the install. I had this happen on an Audi TT I had years ago and it was quite a head scratcher until I pulled the pump again and found that the hose had popped off.

Hey man ! I’m not familiar with the C180, but if it’s an inline type fuel filter (like many of the European makes), it’s usually under the car hiding above the plastic guards on the side of the vehicle that the fuel fill is on. Sorry I couldn’t help much, Steve

Hello, I’m not sure if you can use a universal type pump for a replacement, but they do make aftermarket pump assemblies that replace the OE one. I posted the part number in one of the replies to the comments on the video if you are searching for the replacement part number. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Hello, I got the replacement pump from Partsgeek.com…mainly because they have pictures of the actual assemblies for the different ones they sell. The part number may be different for yours if it is a different year (not sure), but the one I bought for the 2007 C230 was the GENUINE brand (p/n 203-470-55-94). It looks like they updated their sku’s on the site or something, but if you type in the 203-470-55-94 part number in their site’s search bar, it still pulls up the pump assembly. If you do the search by the vehicle type, it pulls up a 26658-08016344 now, but based on the picture and information it refers to this same part (the picture has the blue mark on the upper plastic lid in both pictures). Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Hey again, since the gasket is what keeps fuel fumes from getting inside the vehicle, I don’t think I would reuse the old one just in case it had hardened up or was damaged.

@@StevesDIYs got it where the prungs are on top of the fuel pump cap it was burnt well on one prong I had the keep cranking issue again I saw one prong was a bit loose like wiggly that is not good right? Was it due to the burn It had got? I ordered a pump assembly some where telling me the pump need to change becaise once in a blue i do wear a small arching noise

@@moetic6601 yes, the connections need to be nice and tight to avoid any electrical arcs for sure since it is inside the tank with the fuel.

@@StevesDIYs thanks steve for the info sorry so much questions lol i want to make sure I got a used good pump they said it works came off a class so I will try that I was only going to swap the top portion but I might as well change the whole assembly

Hey Steve one quick question any clue why this burn issue is common? Or why the Mercedes does that? Is it within the pump itself? And once u changed it On this car was it fine?

Hey man ! I got the replacement from Partsgeek and was the part number 203-470-55-94. I think you can Google that number and it will give you different sellers as well. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Hope the video was helpful 👍. All the best ! Steve

I got the replacement from Partsgeek and was the part number 203-470-55-94. I think you can Google that number and it will give you different sellers as well. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Thanks man 👍. Yep, I got it from Partsgeek.com…mainly because they have pictures of the actual assemblies for the different ones they sell because, like you said, some come complete, but other suppliers don’t provide the complete unit and I could zoom in on their pictures to be sure the assembly was complete. The part number may be different for yours if it is a different year (not sure), but the one I bought for the 2007 C230 was the GENUINE brand (p/n 203-470-55-94). It looks like they updated their sku’s on the site or something, but if you type in the 203-470-55-94 part number in their site’s search bar, it still pulls up the pump assembly. If you do the search by the vehicle type, it pulls up a 26658-08016344 now, but based on the picture and information it refers to this same part (the picture has the blue mark on the upper plastic lid in both pictures). Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs اوك

Can you get the part number to be safe?

Hey again, yep, sounds like the corrosion had gotten bad enough that it was not allowing current to flow any longer. If you were able to clean the corrosion off really good so it gets good contact, it will probably continue to work until it corrodes up again, but if the wires had gotten really hot, it may have damaged them to the point that they have more resistance so they will heat up and oxidize really fast. I would probably change the pump and connector out just to make sure it can go for any more years before it starts getting hot enough to discolor things again.

@@StevesDIYs yeah the pump turns on good now so I cleaned it with wire connector cleaner the red cane and I went in there with a pick to make sure the harness was cleaned out so its only one pin on the connector was corroded like burned that one i rrally cleaned and I poped it back in it snapped in place but it did have alot of dirt around the pump so possible arched out from dirty etc? Yeah if the wire is hot it can cause that?the pump is good I hear it turning on it cranks bettwr but that harness down the line where can I buy it? And whats it called?

Hello, does the motor turn over, but it won’t start or is it that the motor dies not even want to rotate when you try to start it? If it does not even rotate the motor it could possibly be the solenoid or relay that pulls in to provide power to the starter or it could be the fuse for the starter relay. It might also be and issue with the security access control preventing it from letting the starter have power, but I don’t think issues with those are very common (basically the car cannot tell that the correct key fob is present so it will not allow it to start). Since it could be several things, it’s really hard to know which unless physically checking the car, but maybe this helped a little 👍. Thanks for the compliment and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs I have the same problem on my 2007 c230 , it spins and all , it’s not the battery or alternator but I do drive my car a lot on E and also it drains my gas fast what can my problem be ? I belibe this video is the solution

@BabyBoy-fz2en hey ! It could be the fuel pump, but could also be the transfer pump that is on the other side under the back seat (if your model is equipped with the second pump). I believe that pump moves fuel from the portion of the tank that is on the driver’s side (US models) so if you are running out of fuel before being completely empty, that might also be an issue if yours has that other little transfer pump.

Hey man ! Yes, if you are getting power down to the pump connector then something must be wrong with the pump or the hose connection. You are right, I did not mention that if the pump is actually still humming, it could be an issue with the line attached to the pump that has split or become disconnected. Most of the time, it seems the pump just goes bad, but now that you mentioned it, my son’s Audi TT did actually split the hose that connects to the pump and the pump was still pumping…just not out through the pipe. If yours is still humming, it might be worth it to check to see if the pipe has become disconnected at the pump or possibly has a split in it. I wouldn’t suggest trying to cycle the fuel pump with the cover removed though as it could easily spray fuel in the car and pose a serious fire risk. All the best ! Steve

@Steve’s DIYs thanks Steve I appreciate your fast response and getting back to some important points. Not that you needed to. But I figured that extra little bit of information could go a long way and really help someone else down the road. I guess my question to you was IF you heard it humming or priming, by chance? In my situation i Checked the relay and fuse, all is good there👍🏼 so I went to the fuel pump connector harness and tested for power by (removing) the fuel pump relay and placing a (fused) jumper wire to test for direct power to the harness/pump and was getting 12v there, still crank no start though. Supposedly, in my vehicle if I jumper the relay to the fuse pump and manage to start the vehicle is because it foced direct power to the pump.. But that didnt work for me although it's getting 12v at the harness. So i figure the pump has completely failed since I didn't even hear it prime while jumpered.. Furthermore i am not recieving any pressure on the fuel rail. But have managed to start the vehicle for a second by pouring a little bit of gas into the throttle body and then it dies out. So I think it's fair to say it's the pump, what do you think Steve?

@@inkdown hey again, yes, I would say in your case, it does sound like the pump has failed as well as those were the same symptoms I had on this one 👍

@Steve’s DIYs thank you very much Steve I appreciate your opinion/help. Have a blessed 1

👍. I replied to your other comment for the part number 👍, Steve

Hello, yes a bad camshaft sensor or crank shaft position sensor would also cause a crank but no start condition, but that would be due to the motor not sending a signal to spark the plugs. This one ended up being fuel related, but if it had been found that the fuel system had pressure, the next step would have been to check the coils to see if they were getting a signal to spark the plugs. For a bad cam shaft sensor, there would not have been spark so then the ignition system would have needed to be diagnosed 👍. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs it helped out a lot my 2003 c230 sounded just like that and couldn't find out what is was it ended up be no gas. The gas gauge is off.

Thanks 👍. Glad the video helped some 👍👍👍. All the best ! Steve

Hello, yep, in the comments on the video, a couple of other folks has asked so I replied back with the part number. Hope this helps and all the best. Steve

@@StevesDIYs yeah fo some reason ita a hard fuel pump t find with the harness connetor

Hello, I’m not as familiar with the Diesels but for the bigger diesel truck motors; leaking injectors, something allowing air to enter the fuel lines, or issues with fuel pressure (fuel pump, pressure regulator or relief valve, lift pump or even a clogged fuel filter) are some of the typical issues that make a diesel only want to start with the help of ether or starting fluid. The other issue could be with cylinder compression, but if it runs good once started that is not as typical. Sorry I couldn’t help much, but maybe it helped a little 👍, Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thank you

Thanks man 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hello, yep, I’ve seen several with darkened wiring on the connector (including the one I did in the video)…seems to be caused by corrosion creating resistance at the connector which then starts heating things up. It might be worth it to look at the driver side transfer pump a well, but it seems that the main pump is the one that has the problem first.

Yea the module pump its called? I thought the main pump was the driver side?

@@moetic6601 I may be wrong (I don’t get to work on many Mercedes), but from the tubing and wiring, it looked like the passenger side one (US models) is the main pump. Might not be the case though.

Hello, yes, it does sound like there may be an issue with the fuel line (or possibly the transfer fuel pump in the other side of the fuel tank has gone bad if your model is equipped with one. The process to check the fuel connection to the pump is the same as in the video though so if you can access the pump you should be able to check to see if that is the issue 👍

👍

Hey man ! I’m not too familiar with the w204’s engine, but I have seen other makes do this for a couple of reasons other than fuel related issues (since you mentioned it still had fuel pressure even though it wouldn’t restart). If it has a single coil and distributor, sometimes the coil will stop firing when it gets hot from the motor compartment heat. If it’s the type with one coil per cylinder it probably wouldn’t be that (a bad one or two would just cause a mis fire). I’ve also encountered one that once the motor warms up to temp and goes into closed loop it would stall or have very little power. For a lot of motors when cold, they use a default air fuel mix since the cats aren’t warmed up enough to use the oxygen sensors to fine tune the mix for the best combustion. If an oxygen sensor goes bad, when the motor warms up and it begins controlling in the closed loop, it will incorrectly adjust the fuel and run it so lean it will stall. Some models also will wait until they go into closed loop (motor reaches operating temp) to begin purging the fuel vapor that has built up in the gas tank and carbon canister and if the purge valve has gone bad, it will open fully and actually flood the engine from the excess gas fumes and stall it. One other one I had would stall when it reached operating from a bad cam position sensor as it read good enough to start, but when it went to advance the cams after warming up it would fault and shut off the motor (it threw a code for that though). Did you check the fuel pressure when it stalls or was it that there was just some fuel that came out if the Schrader valve when you depressed it?

Hey just ran into the same problem, it could still be a bad relay working intermittently. works properly after a couple hours of cooling off, but once it heats up it after driving it remains in an open position, so no power flows to the fuel pump.