Absolutely. How many miles on yours?

your oil expansion plugs are leaking. I have a video on how to fix: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtiSnKd63r-lfWw.html as well as the parts you can order here: irepairautos.com/parts-for-sale/ Let me know if you need anything else.

Hi, do you know the inside diameter of the factory pcv hose on this car? Is it 5/8 inch? I'm talking about the hose that goes from the pcv valve to throttle body, the one you cut in the video

All true statements. Excellent post. Check my video on changing those components. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fZqWqZOaxLXMf5s.html

Can you tell me a little bit more about the brass port that you cleaned?

I will post a video soon.

Thank you.

@@iRepairAutos Hi Keith ! Thank you for the video ! did you finally post a follow up video on this ? I am curious ! Thanks again

Yes that's definitely a loose electrical connection somewhere, causing the system to beep. Usually the beeping/flashing red light is directly related to the trunk sleeve and it's sensor. I would start by examining the sensor in the trunk and the sleeve. It could be something as easy as the sleeve loosing contact momentarily in those scenarios you listed.

I found some good info on the roof sensors and roof troubleshooting guides. Never messed with this type of roof before. Time to go to school and learn all I can and will post the results here. Thanks for all the help you give the DIYers.

I'm guessing it will collect moisture, and some oil. I did it because even though the oil drip pan does this job I've seen the oil light coming on with no signs of oil leaks and some evidence of oil in the inside of the air intake manifold.

iRepair Autos Yeah, I replaced my whole PCV system upon following your videos, even went further with replacing all the hoses and the housing on bank 2 and there's still a little oil going through to the intake manifold through that house you split in half (the one coming from the oil drip pan cover). It's not much, I would say less than 100ml in the last 7k miles so it's not tripping any low oil light. Maybe you have other leaks, I saw there's some on the top part of your bell housing. Check the rear main seal and the oil plugs.

There is probably other leaks like you said. I've changed the oil plugs - the rear main seal hasn't been looked at yet. That's a good point. Thanks for that suggestion. A good excuse for me to take the transmission out. :)

Ha ha, I hope it's not that. I had to deal with a rear main on a 2.0 Tiguan, that was a PITA. I think MB cars are easier to work on, especially the M272 on your car, so it shouldn't be too difficult. If it was the rear main seal, you should see splatter inside the bell housing and I think there should also be some spots under the car. The only way you wouldn't see any oil drip under the vehicle is if it somehow throws all of it on the exhaust and burns it, but that's unlikely. You'd smell it, it would be very pungent. Another oil burning culprit might be the valve stem seals. You can check that by letting the motor idle for 10 minutes until it gets warm and then accelerate it to about 4-5000rmp and if there's white, blueish smoke coming out the exhaust then that's your issue. Is yours smoking out of the exhaust? Or if you run your finger on the inside of the exhaust tip, does it collect a lot of black dust? On my M273 there is little to none of that, so I know it's not burning oil.

The ones I cut came with the catch can. The clear ones came from Lowes. I'll post the sizes later.

iRepair Autos thanks, I appreciate this video!!

@@iRepairAutos Can you share the sizes for the elbow connector you got from Lowe's please?

@@iRepairAutos Would appreciate those connector sizes from Lowes please.

The elbows that I used on my M272 3.0L V6 to do this job are the same ones in the video. I bought mine at Menard’s. They are for plumbing applications but they work fine for this particular job. The threaded male fitting is 3/4” and the other end of the elbow nozzle is reduced down to 1/2”.

M272 is indeed direct injection so dirty valves

I was thinking the same lol I have a clk 350 2007 and this looks like a great idea

Yes. They've been holding up just fine for since the install. Remember there is a rubber hose on the rebreather before this install.

@@iRepairAutos does the oil catch can have to be places below the oil separator? So the oil can flow down? Or it can be put at anywhere in the engine bay?

The oil catch can location can be anywhere ..

@@iRepairAutos that's very helpful, I'm following your advice to install one, on my glk 350. Is M272 is direct injection engine or conventional injection? Thanks again.

These engines are direct injection.

Would love to. I need someone to donate a sprinter van. Running or not. And I'll do a complete series.

You have to make sure your hoses won't bend.

Or get better rigid hose to prevent bending.

the problem to address is really to drastically improve the "oil separator"... fold and insert some fiberglass mesh (windows screen!) inside separator outlet. The Benz PCV venting is another excellent design failure - WTF. The piston rings have to much blow-by the economy size PCV can't handle 😂

DOWNHILL FLOW: as far as routing pipes with liquids... plumbers say drain pipes should only go downhill NOT UP....

The drip pan behind it needs replacing.

Yes, this is especially good for diesel engines.

Yes, find the hose that goes from the top of the engine block back into the air intake after the mass air flow sensor.

I would like to see how much liquid it has recovered.

I don't see one in this catch can.

After a thousand miles it had quiet a bit of moisture mixed with oil ( white paste like goo)

It would be better to intake both breather ports to the catch can, then 1 out to the intake, so a 3 port can.

Huyada

Yup - I covered that part in a separate video.

Oil Seperators, a catch can is illegal, should be used as preventative maintenance or as a fail safe. Every car manufacturer on the planet has had pcv or oil seperator failures and this is a great way to keep your a$$ covered.

Done!

@@iRepairAutos thank you 😊