Thanks. Uploading a new video now and have a lot more coming this month.

Thanks. Glad it helped. Let me know if you ever need help with anything else

Awesome. That makes my day. I make these videos to help and love hearing these stories

Thank you and yes some parts are best to buy new since they will wear out over time like this one

Sweet. Thanks for watching. Glad it helped

Thank you. Glad it helped

Awesome great to see this older video still helping people out

Message me on Instagram. I’ve been working through asr issues all month and found many things they can be

Awesome glad it helped

Wait how do I remove the vent ? I have a s320 and can't take it off

I love the S320. Sure it's slower than a 420 or 500 but damn that straight 6 hums so nicely.

That's awesome and the reason why I make the videos. You got this

@@petescarport PROBLEM! I followed the instructions and while it was a LOT harder to remove the AC vent then it looked like in the video, I did get it off and ultimately reinstalled everything. I tried the headlights to make sure they would now work by loosely placing the knob on before putting everything back together and YEA! (or so I thought), they came on! BUT. (The BIG "but"), After reinstalling everything, I went to put the knob back on fully and it just would NOT "lock" on to the shaft. "WTF??", I thought!! After closer examination, I discovered the "EXACT" replacement switch I bought was NOT "exact"! The shaft on the OEM switch has a metal casing with a slot that the knob locks onto. (When you stick a small flathead screwdriver into the hole on the knob, it releases the knob from that slot that the knob hooks on to.) The shaft on the replacement switch does NOT have that slot! So there is nothing for the knob to lock onto and it just slides right off, as well as being unable to pull out to turn on the foglamps, because obviously when you pull on it, you just pull the knob off!! UGH!!!! The so-called "exact" replacement part number is 0005456504.......but the number on the OEM part is 0005456404. (a 4 instead of a 5 in the 3rd digit from the left.) I have checked all over the internet and the part number I bought is CONSTANTLY referred to as the replacement for the original part!!! BUT BE ADVISED...it is NOT an "exact" replacement!! Yes, it plugs right into the socket as the original switch did, and yes, it operates the headlights and if you pull the shaft out by hand (as I said, you can't do it with the knob), the foglamps work. But it is NOT the right part and I am frustrated beyond belief!!! NOW what?? I can buy a used part off ebay but won't I be vulnerable to the same failure from age as I was with my own original part? It will be just as old! It may work when I get it, but for how long? That's why I wanted a brand new one! Any suggestions???

@@richards4374 wow I haven't heard this one and that sucks they wouldn't just make one universal part for all. I wonder if you can maybe use Teflon tape or something to create a seal. Using super glue would make it very difficult to change in future. I'm sure there's a million ways to modify it to work since it does work on controlling the lights. This is a big plus so you can at least use the lights. Now we have to figure out how to modify it so you can use it fully.

@@petescarport Pete, I went ahead and ordered, off Amazon, another switch. One that has the specific part number of the original and therefore should not be an "exact cross-reference compatible" part, but the SAME part. In the pic, it "looks" like the metal shaft with the slot the knob locks onto is visible, although it's not perfectly clear. My first thought was the same as yours....to modify it somehow to work by maybe gluing it on, and justifying that action based on 25 years of successful operation with the original part. Since if I got the same life out of the replacement switch, I would be NINETY years old when it fails, I'd probably be safe doing that! LOL! But I am really anal about my cars and like them really "right". (Which is why In get buried alive in every collectable car I own. I never know when to just "stop".) So I ordered the correct switch (HOPEFULLY!!) and will update you again when it arrives. If it has the correct shaft with that slot the knob locks onto, it's an in and out and an attempt to return the wrong part, which I am hoping will be successful or I guess I'll list it on ebay and take a loss. We'll see!! Either way, your video is extremely helpful and I couldn't have done this without it!

@@petescarport UPDATE! Returned the wrong one, ordered the "right one". It came today. I opened the box and was really excited to see the shaft with the slot on it that locks the knob on, which was missing from the first switch. BUT. (Yea, here we go again.) The knob will NOT lock onto the new switch!! There is a very, very slight difference in shaft size, the new one is a tiny bit smaller than the original, and because it is, the knob goes on, and "sort of" clicks on, but when you pull it to turn the foglamps on? It pops right off! Which it does NOT do with the original switch!!! NOW WHAT?? This one is supposed to be the EXACT match to the OEM part number! This is a NIGHTMARE! Is it time to glue it in and hope I never have to change that switch again???

Yes very common issue but when It first happened to me I thought it was going to be a big deal.

Awesome. Always glad to hear someone enjoyed.

Awesome. I just subscribed. I look forward to watching. Glad I could help

Awesome. Glad it helped

@@petescarport any chance you have replaced the headlight bulbs on the r129? Mine are very bright and I was thinking about changing them out. And how about the headlight washers?

There's a site you can get it from. Been a long time but I might have a video and link. You need to pull the radio too to get the number off it. But you need the tools to pull radio

@@petescarport I have the tools to pull it out and also I have the serial number for the radio

Still Cross thank you. Hopefully helps a lot of people. I couldn’t find anything that was useful in video

@@petescarport no problem dude! Good thing you put one up! I just bought a 96 W140 s320 and also doing some work on it. Great videos you make.

Thanks. Glad it helped

HASAN KSA hope this helped. I almost broke it trying to pull on it before releasing the button

Jean thanks for tuning in and I'm glad it helped. I will look into changing handle out. I had a parts car last year and learned how to take off almost every part in the interior but that is one that I can't remember. Let me look at it and get back to you.

You may be right. I read that on a forum from someone before doing it but couldn't find and video or pictures. Either way it's not too difficult and I'm guessing Mercedes would charge a fortune to so this. :)

Yep. I just did it (thank you for the video which was extremely helpful) and you don't have to remove the trim. I was surprised by the sleeve over the duct inside the dash which took a little work to reinstall. Also snapped a screw hole on the vent just by lightly pulling up on it - be very careful at all times with old Mercedes plastic. @@petescarport

They just plug in. I am still rocking them but damn the light quality sucks as far as vision. From outside they look insane and show a good distance but driving is very hard to see. There is a possibility I don't have them aligned right but I just think the lights are not as bright as they need to be. On a positive they were cheap and look sick

stuart chadban thanks. This is site I used for radio code. www.radio-code.co.uk/mercedes-radio-codes.html

stuart chadban you will also need a removal tool and get the serial code off the radio

Thanks for reaching out. In all honesty it sounds like you don’t have any hydraulic fluid in the system. I know the roll bar will work separately from the top but does use the same reservoir for fluid. If you haven’t filled it yet it’s located in trunk under spare tire. You will see a tank on very bottom. You need to use Mercedes’ fluid or pentosin. I recommend Mercedes just to be safe.

@@petescarport Thanks for the info I’m gonna check the reservoir right now let you know what’s going on!! Thanks again Pete !

If you look under it at the very bottom there is a tiny hole that gets a small screw. This holds it on. You may be able to get one from hardware store

Gary Wright hope it helped. Thanks for watching.

Do you know the history of them? When they last worked. With mine someone actually cut the wires because they have a tendency to short our with bad wires. I removed mine snd re wires using one off parts car. Mine now work great. A lot of times the built in heater wire will get exposed and short out the ac. This is why people cut them or removed the plug.

they can be loose if the mirror switch is defective

Windows are pretty simple. You need to hold each window button fully up for about 10sec and then go fully down for 10 sec. With that said you will need to push it in the standard mode till it reaches top and then fully push into auto mode and hold for 10 sec. Then do same thing for down position.

If you don't have the radio code, which it will be on the owner's manual usually on a card, then you will need to remove the radio and get the serial number off it. There are a few sites that will decode it and give you the security code. Or you can usually go down to a dealership and they can get it based on the VIN or serial number of radio. My radio was changed out so I went online with the serial number and worked out for me.

Hi. I already did the windows reprograming but seems to be that there is an electrical problem. they work randomly. Regarding the radio code i have the code but any time I introduce it. the code remain blinking and do not allow me to unlock the stereo. any additional procedure??? Thanks in advance

I The way I reprogram them is to turn car on and roll window all the way to top and then click to full position and hold for 30sec. Then roll all the way down and when it reaches bottom click full position and hold 30 sec. This should reset or re align the window. Do for each window

Chances are you would be completely fine without disconnecting it since it’s a closed device but if you accidentally ground out wire or short the electric it could pop a fuse or ruin the unit but this would be hard to do

@@petescarport Removing that speaker grille is easier said than done. I could not take the clip in the back out. Any recommendations?

There is a screw for the speaker grille under a cover. Figured it out. Hard part is taking out the air vent.

Yes, it’s been a few years since I made that video and wasn’t sure if I mentioned my tab was broken so screw wasn’t holding it in.

19"

Oh sorry in this video 18". But now 19"

Pete’s Carport sweet bro thanks amigo !!

Sl320 1994