Never seize was applied! Would use kroil next time to take them out.

Glad to help!

Worked great! Used helicoils

Ryan. I believe the one you are talking about is a check valve for fuel. Go to Marineengine parts website to and look for a diagram of your box. I am thinking this prevents backflow of pressurized fuel when you turn the system off. It has been awhile so I can't be sure. We have over 100hours on the fuel cooler after that repair job. It is still working fine. Good luck.

Restrictor in main water pickup allows water to flow in one hose and out the other

Thanks yea we are aware of that. Unfortunately we bought the boat in this condition and were not aware of it when we purchased the boat. Thanks for watching!

Excellent advice! Jim, the fuel injection specialist, recommended running low cost ethanol gas during the season. The fill it up with non ethanol gas at the end of the season. He said the ethenol cleans the system. Boat is running fantastic now. Joe

I believe it was less than $20 per injector. I want to say about $18 per injector. Very good value compared to new injectors at $300 each. Link for fuel cooler www.perfprotech.com/blog/tech-articles/new-mercruiser-gen-iii-cool-fuel-module-service-bulletin. In the video I talk about stainless compatibility with aluminum being better than brass. Further review shows this time be incorrect. I think brass may be more compatibe. Tapping the box didn't work that well. I could only get a partial thread. Modifications to the Barb fitting, the partial thread and waterproof JB weld worked well for the fittings. Getting the nylon broken fittings out of the feed hoses took a bit of work. In the end it all worked well. I work in close association with the outdoorsman channel. Good luck Joe

injectorrepair.com/contact-us/. My fuel rail had to flushed out also.

One more tip. If you try to take it apart buy some Kroil penetrating oil apply it to bolt and let it sit for a day or two. I wish I knew about this when we tried to get the bolts out. The stuff works like magic on aluminum corrosion Bonds.

I actually have some kroil. Good stuff

This is a bit late. To prime the pump, you need to,. Install the fuel box but leave the fuel cover for the filter section off. Then fill it up using an appropriate container, keep the bildge blower on. Fill just enough so it doesn't overflow when the filter is installed. Then install filter and cover. If the box gets air locked it is a problem. Good luck. Joe

@@joesilverbliss1721 Thanks!

There's no easy way to prevent spilling when you put the filter holder back in place so have some rags or container ready and in place. Also that big brass bolt on the inside is a bleeder.

Everything got replaced

Ok, most people only seem to replace the round filter and not both.

@@ATKrausz round filter is, from my reading, a 5 micron particulate filter. worth doing while you have it open, imo.

Hi. Manual is a SELOC Mercrusier Stern Drives 2001-13 Repair Manual 3208. Tip, don't leave it in the boat if it can rained on. Good luck. Joe

@@joesilverbliss1721 thank you very much

No problem. I am a contributing associate for the outdoorsman channel.

So the stainless tube that goes into the fuel module that eventually goes to the fuel rail comes out. This one was stuck and corroded big time. This one had a cross bolt with a tapered end to hold it into the fuel housing. You need to remove that first. If yours does not come out I would put penetrating oil on the stainless tube and let it sit. If I was going to do this again I would soak all screws with kroil. They might not have broken. To remove the rubber hose from the fuel rail on top of the engine you need to get special tools at auto store. Not expensive. Finally there is a special oring that you should replace on the stainless tube. It seals 40 psi gas from seeping out around the tube. In addition to all this if you clean corrosion off the seat of the fuel tube hole on the box it may not snug up with the cross pin when you are done. I work closely with the outdoorsman channel. Good luck Joe

The cross bolt that holds the fuel tube in is part number 10-866114. They don't sell the original design anymore, my guess it was because it was poorly designed.

Thanks Joe Silverbliss

@@joesilverbliss1721 Hi, regarding the stainless line that goes into the fuel pump cover, mine looks to be in very good shape (i.e. no corrosion). That said, I haven't removed the stainless line from the fuel pump cover yet. Where it enters the top of the cover, is the stainless line supposed to be rigid? I can rotate the stainless line clockwise and counterclockwise with it still connected to the top. I only turned it a few degrees each way, but I want to be sure that is normal. I know that little 'crossbolt' thing is supposed to keep the line securely in place, but like I said, I'm not sure if it is supposed to stay in a fixed position. I'm thinking it is supposed to move as it is probably an O ring seal. Can you please confirm that some movement of the stainless line is ok?

@@willytv275 the stainless line comes straight out after cross pin is removed. Use liquid wrench or kroil if you can get it. It is good that you have some movement. Mine was stuck firm. It is probably corroded a bit. There is a special seal that I would replace after you remove it. I would keep working it and rotating it. So, after I got mine out and cleaned the bore of crude it didn't want to snug up with the cross bolt. I think it is a poor design. I had a tapered cross pin that went into the other side of the hole with a smaller diameter part of the cross screw. New cross screws is just a hemisphere and I think it might work better. I bought one but didn't try it because I got mine to work. Let me know how you make out. Also I removed the line to the fuel rail and took the entire thing out to work on it. Good luck

Hi. Yep this is a problem. I am a contributing associate of the outdoorsman channel. This unit had corrosion locking the fuel line in when the cross pin was removed. Basically you need penetration oil, I would strongly suggest Kroil, and rotation to work it free. It does come out. When you get it out you can clean the bore and seal surfaces and definitely replace the special fuel seal on the pipe. This holds 40psi of fuel pressure. If you have a pin that tapers to a smaller diameter that goes thru the box you may have trouble making it tight again after cleaning everything out of the bore. In my opinion this is a very bad design. It was changed and the new cross pins have a larger round trips to hold the fuel line in on the flange. I would get a new design pin from marineengine.com. If the tube is not mechanically secured you can get fuel shooting out. Good luck let the outdoorsman channel know how you did. Joe

@@joesilverbliss1721 Awesome! I am chasing a motor that won't develop full throttle. The opposite motor at idle reads 90 psi on the rail at idle. Ate you saying that is too high? I have Kroil.

Not sure I believe my 5.0L 2006 fuel rail is 42ish psi. What motor and year do you have. I would consult a manual. Also in the video we talk about using stainless instead of brass for cooling.. Upon further review that is wrong. There are brass fittings in the aluminum box. Stainless works fine though. We have about 70 hours on the repair with no problems

You probably need to look at pressure at WOT while underway to see if you have enough flow and pressure. The pumps may not be putting out.

@@joesilverbliss1721 Hi Joe, I have an 8.1 HO. Trouble is the Mercruiser Service manual is not Gen III. The supplement manual #40, doesn't speak to the pressure. The motor with 90 psi runs great. The motor with 45 psi won't get over 3000 RPMs. Changed wires, plugs, IAC, fuel filter, temp sensors, no codes on the scanner, no Guardian mode....

The Gen III box is a lot of money. Ours has been working perfectly since this. Video was made and cost little to nothing.

What 'small filter on top' are you referring to? I thought there was just the paper canister filter and the little disk one at the bottom.

The pumps alone are 750.00