You are absolutely right. I had the shadow of a doubt, after I was done filming. I double checked this information in the manual, and went back in there afterwards, to tension it correctly. It completely slipped my mind to amend the audio comment. Thank you for pointing this out! A vital piece of information, here! I have pinned your comment, so that it always appears in first place.

@@gmcevoy I was following it on mine tonight and went somethings is not right here... Glad to see the update :)

I am so glad that you find this helpful. I did my best to detail as much as possible. It is a tedious task, and one where zero mistakes are tolerated. Best of luck with your timing belt replacement! Take your time, take it step by step, and feel free to ask your questions here in the comments if you have any. Always glad to help if I can! Kind regards, Geoffrey

@@gmcevoy Hi thanks for your reply,in my part of the world East Devon, there’s no help although I’m in the MGCC our MGF is coming up to 22years old very soon the km are 47400 the head and belt were replaced at 38000 , I do all my own repairs and garage the car I will look forward to seeing your head gasket replacement if you do one as I said you explain slowly unlike (the Rimmer guy with there big garage and windy guns also a garage lift ) wish I had all that gear still there a big company and not working in a ordinary home garage, so I’m following your repairs and sound advice, Regards Nigel.

@@gogetlostgoaway2895 Thank you Nigel. I have already replaced the head gasket on this car (which belongs to a friend, by the way), and mileage was roughly the same at the time I produced this video. Sadly, I did this before I had created this channel. The one thing that you must absolutely do while the cylinder head is off, is to pin down the cylinder liners, otherwise they can lift off their base within the block, and break the seal at the bottom of the cylinder liner. As I said, always happy to help if I can. Thanks again for watching! :-)

@@gmcevoy thanks Geoffrey I will follow your advice regarding the cylinder liners, this head gasket work is planned for about 5000Ks time for the moment she looking fine, but I’m sure the cam belt could do with a new one also the water pump, one thing is the tensioner ! should I fit a automatic one as a upgrade?not sure if I do this, Regards Nigel.

It is indeed another way of doing it. Thank you for your input. :)

Maybe if the engine is on the bench, but no way if the engine is in situ on the MG TF (you just can't line up the tensioner bolt with the hole). Ive done this a few times and would follow what Geoffery states here ie wedging the belt on the crank and then only putting the belt on the edge of the cam wheels before fiddling around the tensioner. It is a complete faff!

Thank you so much for your feedback! I am really glad that you like it, and I hope that it has been useful to you.

yes indeed, nice tutorial!

Thanks for stopping by, Ali G. Your kind words are truly appreciated. Quick question: has the cylinder head been skimmed? If so, your engine shop would have told you by how much, and you might have to fit a thicker head gasket, to compensate. Do let me know...

@@gmcevoy Cheers for the reply. Long story!.. Purchased the engine from eBay several years ago. Decided to upgrade from original type to the MLS version as a precaution while it was out of the car. Reinstalled it all and then didnt work on it for years. Note It's in a GTM Libra kit car. I must have disturbed one of the liners; found that water was running into the sump, so I disposed of the now corroded MLS, cleaned up and re-sealed the liners. Worked well. This time around I used the updated single gasket as I was unsure about liner heights (an education from one of your other videos). Theoretically it should just go back together as it did originally. Confusing.

@@agerrard680 What a story indeed. Liner height, or their protrusion above the face of the block, is of utmost importance indeed. I would have to dig into the technical data that I have, to make sure. In theory though, if the head has not been skimmed out of tolerance, if should fit indeed, and you shouldn't have this issue. What type of timing belt tensioner does your engine have? There are two variations, which are not interchangeable... Yours should be the automatic fitment, I would think. I will keep this in the back of my mind. Quite by chance, I am currently rebuilding the top end of another TF, so again, a K series engine. I will look it up, and let you know if I come up with something. Feel free to get in touch by email, at info@mcevoy.be Talk to you soon!

It is a tight fit. Make sure that the belt is taut on the opposite side of the tensioner. If you are having trouble keeping tension while you make your way around (anti-clockwise starting from the crankshaft), try folding a piece of cardboard and wedge it in between the belt and the engine block, right under the crankshaft pulley to keep the belt in place. Don't forget to remove it when you are done! lol. 🙂 You can also try to run the belt along each pulley (don't be afraid to pull hard on the belt), by placing the belt only halfway onto each pulley. This can give you the tiny bit of extra slack that you may be missing. Then push the belt evenly upon both cam pulleys. Best of luck!

Hi there. Thank you for stopping by! Tough luck, with your broken engine... First of all, you will definitely want to change the timing belt, tensioner and water pump on your new engine, while it is still out of the car. It makes things so much easier. You might as well change the spark plugs, while you are at it. Just watch this series, take your time, and everything will be okay. Removing the old engine, however, is quite a different story. If you are not at all familiar with engines, I would strongly suggest that you buy a copy of your Freelander's workshop manual. This precious book contains all procedures, torque settings, and tools that you will need for this intervention, and many others, too. Before even opening the bonnet of your car, read the relevant sections in your book, and get familiar with the tooling and procedures. Get a friend or two over to help you, too. This type of intervention is not to be taken lightly. It is heavy work, and dangerous. From behind my keyboard, this is truly the best help that I can give to you. I wish you the best of luck! Be careful, take your time, and all will be fine! :)

Абсолютно, мой друг. Вот ссылка на деталь. www.drapertools.com/product/52306/Rover-Group-Camshaft-Locking-Tool

@@gmcevoy спасибо большое друг

@@user-in8gy3vs9o Добро пожаловать!