You are welcome. It is indeed a difficult choice. I would say it mostly boils down to the use you are going to have of the bike. Bear in mind that carburetter models are easier to work on because less electronics are involved and they respond much better to performance tuning, but they require more regular maintenance (and the know-how to get it done properly). Whereas fuel injection are more accurate, require less maintenance but are more electronically complex. If you intend to use it for leisure, I would go with the carb model, but if you intend to use the bike on a daily basis, the injection model will probably be less of a hassle in the long run. I hope this helps!

I might as well do a video about that. Watch this space. 🙂

No it isn't. Its a Cooper S, which I transformed into a Clubvan. Mini never made a Clubvan S, so I did.

@@gmcevoy You’ve got it backwards. You should’ve bought the van and then converted it into an S End of the day that is a car from factory . Taking the backseat out of it doesn’t make it a van .

@@BullyBoxer Much more of a hassle, and completely illegal here. Swapping engines is a no-go. Plus, the clubvan doesn't have the Sports chassis, when this S does. So I got it right. And it was indeed a bit more involved than just taking the back seat out. I bought and fitted the Clubvan inner boot panels, had a floor cut to measure and then got it approved by the technical inspection authorities to make it all legal.

@@gmcevoy still just a car ,and not a factory van .

I tried it, and it definitely worked.

@@gmcevoyeven after 5 years? That’s awesome. I’m buying a 1998 300TDI, picking it up on Saturday and I think this is going to be my first job whilst the weather is nice

Indeed. It is a highly intricate device. If you don't feel comfortable, ask a professional to take care of it for you. 🙂

Nice. This ticks all your boxes then. Parts are still widely available, and if they aren't a good machine shop should be able to make them for you. These bikes will outlive us all.

Parts is around 600€. Time depends on your skill and the size of your toolbox. Sadly I sold it, but I still have my K1200RS which has the same chassis. Clutch needs doing on that one, so maybe a video will follow.

Well, if you look at the equivalent nowadays, you're looking at about 35 grand for a new bike. This K1200LT would be a money pit up to about 5 grand tops, including purchase price. You don't have today's luxurious amenities of course, it is 20 years old after all. 🙂

Hi! Thanks for your comment, and welcome to T140V ownership! I too have trouble finding neutral, and I have found out that it is much easier to find it while the bike is still rolling. So before I come to a full stop, I put it back in first and gently nudge the lever toward neutral. 9 times out of 10 it works, or else it goes back into second, then I just nudge it down. As long as the bike is rolling, it works. When it's at a standstill, it is much more difficult. Have fun, and thank you for subscribing! It means a lot to me.

@@gmcevoy thanks very much for the tip to find neutral as you're rolling to a stop. I'll give that a try and practice it. Cheers!

Light Truck, I love it! It's exactly what it is! Hahaha! Your ABS will be fine, just make sure to renew the brake fluid in both primary and secondary circuits, as per BMW's recommendations. I think it's every two years.

It is a tight fit. Make sure that the belt is taut on the opposite side of the tensioner. If you are having trouble keeping tension while you make your way around (anti-clockwise starting from the crankshaft), try folding a piece of cardboard and wedge it in between the belt and the engine block, right under the crankshaft pulley to keep the belt in place. Don't forget to remove it when you are done! lol. 🙂 You can also try to run the belt along each pulley (don't be afraid to pull hard on the belt), by placing the belt only halfway onto each pulley. This can give you the tiny bit of extra slack that you may be missing. Then push the belt evenly upon both cam pulleys. Best of luck!

Hi! Night runs are awesome. I don't have good enough camera gear to make it look good in a video. But it is good fun. The LED headlight conversion makes a world of difference, and the light bar sets the world alight. Sadly, I have to part with it, so let me know if it might be of interest to you. Regarding the auxiliary heater, I took it out as it was occupying otherwise useful space behind the driver seat. I still have it though.

Thank you Scott. Much appreciated!

Maybe it has flooded? Make sure the spark plugs are nice and dry. Take them out and leave the engine overnight with the plugs off so the excess fuel can evaporate (if there is any inside the cylinders). When an engine has flooded, the petrol washes the oil off the cylinder bores and can reduce compression pressure sufficiently for staring to be difficult. Let me know how it goes.

@@gmcevoy that's a good point. Fingers crossed it is that simple. I'll pull the plugs out shortly and leave it till tomorrow evening after work and give it a go. Thanks for the reply.

@@MarkMCMAHON-mm3vp I hope it works. Fingers crossed!

I'm not entirely sure. One would have to double check the data in the workshop manual

Hi Stephen, I've got a feeling that this is out of my league. I have no experience whatsoever with Ford E150's. I don't think they ever sold these, on this side of the pond. Maybe you could make a template using the good old CAD method (cardboard aided design), and bring the template to a body shop who could then make a polycarbonate substitute to measure?

Thank you! Making the gearbox seal properly is a lot of work, and requires a lathe and a mill... I removed the SuperScale suspension, as it looks great but really makes crawling nearly impossible. It is possible to adjust front and rear lift.

You summed that up pretty well.

Peccato davvero. Come spesso accade con i veicoli di una certa età, hanno subito modifiche e raccontano la loro storia unica. Forse si è schiantata e le parti di ricambio non erano disponibili, forse è stata rubata, smontata e venduta, rimontata in seguito... Ognuna ci racconta una storia unica, ed è ciò che rende le vecchie auto e moto così belle da possedere.

I can understand your frustration. Push fit exhausts was a thing up until maybe the 1920's, in automotive applications at least. I've had issues with mine too, up until I took it apart, push-fit both pipes (gently helped with a light dead-blow hammer), pushed them inwards towards each other then secured the clamps on the balance pipe. That sorted it out once and for all.

Hai assolutamente ragione. Questa era davvero una bici con specifiche americane. Ben individuato!

Never say never. There is one out there for you. It will turn up at some point. Just keep your eyes peeled. 🙂

You are welcome. Glad it is useful to you.

From what I recall, it is all mounted on rubber bushes. If something clunks, then a bush must have disintegrated. There is no lubrication needed anywhere else than on the swingarm bearings. This bike is solidly built 🙂. With the bike on the centre stand, try to push and pull the rear wheel from side to side, left and right. See if there is any play in the swingarm bearings.

Thanks for the prompt reply. There is no play at all. It is just a feeling of metal on metal with harder bumps. From what you are saying, I'm thinking that the rubber bushings may have just gone like older men.... Softer over time! 😂😂 Thank you for your thoughts

Congrats on your acquisition! You are going to love it! If you haven't already, it is worth investing in the Haynes manual, which describes ever so clearly each and every step regarding maintenance, overhaul, and general care for your bike.

@@gmcevoy Thank you! Just drove it home yesterday. 4 hour drive along norwegian fjords in amazing weather. I just ordered the manual as well as a new oil and air filter :) Next up is replacing the chain, and what seems to be a front guard mounted on the frond underside of the main frame that has occumulated some rust. Before starting on the estetics and performance based upgrades :)

@@EagleEyePVP Fantastic! Nothing beats a good service to get acquainted with the bike. It's a part of the bonding process, if you ask me. 🙂

Much appreciated. Not sure what you mean by cleaning the engine/cylinders. Could you be a bit more specific so I can better answer your question?

sure, I just bought a R60/2 and the engine is clearly in need of a deep clean, especially the cylinders. I wonder how you keep yours so clean here. any tip on cleaning grease and dust from in-between the fins for example?@@gmcevoy

@@aurolevraiWell done with your purchase! I hope your bike will bring you lots of enjoyable rides! Steam cleaning would be a good place to start. Also, dust tends to stick to oily deposits, so perhaps your engine seals are no longer as efficient, letting a bit of oil seep out. But a steam clean would definitely help to clean it all off. If that doesn't work, then a gentle dry ice blast would be your ticket to a brand new-looking engine. Then again, if seals are not as effective as new ones, the oil deposit will soon be back. Otherwise, once it has been steamed or dry ice blasted, regular maintenance helps: blowing with compressed air after each ride, followed by a gentle water rinse (garden hose is perfect, never with a pressure washer), and especially drying afterwards helps to keep it look beautiful. Enjoy your R60/2, no matter what! 🙂

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I haven't laughed so hard in way too long. Thank you for your simple yet effective comment! I love it! Pinned to top.

750cc

Thanks, grouchy old man! Much appreciated! I hope you will find more entertainment on my channel as it grows. Speak soon I hope!

The entry fee cost me about $160 for this one, bar petrol, brake pads, tyres, oil service etc... All in all, the day cost about $1000 if you take everything into account.

Hello there! I've done a lot of work to it, although not much on camera. I had started filming for a video about upgrading the brake lines to stainless braided hoses, and the operation turned into a nightmare of more and more things to do on the bike. I ended up scrapping the idea of making a video about it because it would have taken much too long. In a nutshell, I had all fairings off, replaced the brake lines, reconditioned both front and rear calipers and front master cylinder, bled the brakes, rebuilt the forks with new seals, and bled the clutch, which turned out to solve the slipping issue. The clutch actuator rod was not fully coming back to its initial location, which was generating slip under high torque load. I also replaced the windscreen for a new one, rebuilt the screen motor, polished all the fairings while they were off the bike, sent the radio to a guy in the USA to have a new, more powerful amp fitted. I ended up selling after all because I got strapped for cash. Thank goodness things have turned around since then, and I have been on the fence about buying it back, but landed a great opportunity on a K1600 GTL instead. I must go and collect it next week. Regarding your ABS light, you might want to check the sensor-to-ring gap, and make sure your battery is in good condition. Low batteries can cause havoc. My throttle was smooth as butter. The throttle cables are lined with nylon, so its best to replace them if they have been previously lubed with oil. Chances are the nylon has worn out, making the cable movement stiff. It's not much of a chore to swap it for a new one as much as removing all the fairings to get to it. lol.

I think it was 220mF 40V. Check the ratings on the existing capacitors.

@@gmcevoy thanks

Thank you!