HELLO I HAVE A MACBOOK PRO 2010 SERIAL W80291Q2AGZ , PANICS AND RESTARTS ,DOES THE CAPACITOR WORK FOR ME?.....CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME.

Hello, it is June 16, 2024... I followed all your instructions and repaired a macbook pro mid 2010, I have had it operational since yesterday, working without problems... excellent information, thank you very much, and just as a piece of information, with I have installed OpenCore legacy patcher Sonoma 14.5, it is wonderful to see a 2010 mac running with macos 2024.

Hey. Thank you very much for your tuto. I just fixed my MBP and it works great ! Just one little pb : lightness is not optimal and the screen brightness butons on the keyboard don’t have any action anymore. Where does it comes from ? I’m wondering if the connexion wire up to the right fan is not the Pb ? Thank you very much. B.R.

great video thanks I may try it

Thanks for clearly showing how to do the trick!

I started having Gpu kernel panics on my MacBookPro6,1 mid-2010 17”. I’ve seen two videos including yours on replacing the capacitor, but for a 15” of the same model year. I’m having a hard time thinking this is the problem after over 10 years of no Gpu kernel panics. What else could it be? Why does the capacitor “fail” after so much time, and is it the same capacitor as on a 15”? I find your video very useful in showing how to remove the board, it’s a bit more involved than replacing the hard drive which I did years ago. A couple questions: 1) Is it possible to modify the kext extensions for the 17” as others have suggested for the 15” or will this not work? On the 15” the changes were G-state threshold levels all to just above the lowest setting. Is there a similar fix for the 17”? 2) I have the classic kernel panic of black screen and restart, with a kernel panic report when it reboots. However more times than not it gets stuck trying to reboot with a repetitive clicking sound from the area near the MagSafe power adapter (upper left corner). What could that be? Sound doesn’t seem to come from the hard drive (lower left) or anywhere else. Perhaps it is the fan? Power supply? Eventually it reboots after pushing the power button when it’s “cooled off”. Thanks in advance for any guidance, and great video.

I have that same computer with the exact same problem i would repair it but i dont know how to do that stuff but it would be useful if i could fix it what do i need?

this fix work with a external monitor? from minidisplay port?

I did this but now it won’t read my ssd optical drive which runs the os... what do I do???

I'm a little late to this party but you can put Kapton tape over the surrounding components to protect them from the heat.

merci mec

Thanks for the video, especially the tips on how to remove the logic board and labeling them. I don't have a heat gun, but i do have a regular old soldering iron with nice small chisel tip. Will this get hot enough to remove the old capacitor?

Just did this on my macbook for GODS SAKE dont try to pull off with tweezers like snipe did if you do this especially at higher temperatures you will pull the pads off the PCB. Heat till the chip can be nudged softly then lift, no pulling, no force!

where do we get this done?

where did you get the capacitor or in another macbook thanks for you help master God bless you guys

What temperature was the heatgun set to? I need to replace the same cap and I've used up to 600°C but the it won't come off :(

Do you know if this will work on a early 2011 15" mac book pro. I was just given three of these.

Hi , just stumpled on your video makes it look doable, thanks!!!Really thinking about trying it. Only question is did it fix the issue? And is it still working?

10:04 when your trying to pull your tooth out

hey thanks for this tutorial. question, can I use a hairdryer or do I need a heat gun. I want to use a hair dryer with an extension to focus the heat like you did.

how did you make the extension from your heat gun?

after i replace this cap the fun it's running full speed and keyboard lights it's flashing blinking . any idea?

Thanks for the video. Do you know of a fix for the 2010 17 inch??

Would conductive epoxy work to reattach new capacitor?

Can i also try baking the whole logic board in the oven instead? No heat gun here.

Thanks for making this video. Where would a find the link to the company selling replacement capacitors?

I'm sure not going to buy a $200 hot air station for this repair ... BTW Thanks for your informative video ...

By the way ... where can I find DECENT/CHEAP heat gun ???

The link don’t work anymore any where else can I buy it from ?

can i just leave the battery outside without put it back and make my 2010 macbook pro still power on with plug to electricity only?

Hi! I've a similar problem, but the error message is "GPUPanic.cpp:170"; the solution is the same?

I have very little experience doing this kind of thing but all of the local repair places that i call say that the motherboard needs to be replaced. I don't want to pay for that to be done when the same problems will inevitably end up happening again. would it be totally inadvisable to try to do this by myself? It doesn't at all seem that difficult...

Hello sir I am a student .I am new to mac world.I am having macbook pro mid 2010 serial number W8020CFZAGW .I am using windows OS . While using After some times my macbook blinks few times and give error ''Display driver stopped responding" or "Kernal version 342.01 has stopped responding and has successfully recovered" But while using Mac OS After some time my mac Automatically restarted with error "Your computer is restarted because of problem" Will changing capacitor solve my problem?? Plz help

What is the new capacitor model number?

Sorry, that is not a chip, but SMD e-capacitor 330yF

The capacitor is about $8.00 ... but your need to get the proper screw drivers, and the heat gun ...

it's a capacitor, not a chip

It isn't a 17inch ?

is there anyone know that how much this gonna cost me

No disrespect intended, sir, but changing my battery did not correct this problem for me. Ultimately what did correct it was an app and instructions offered by one of your colleagues found at the following URL: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qs-IjM6qz5i9ZYU.html. What is nice about this, is no purchase of a battery or any other hardware is required: no purchase of anything at all, really. I can not say for certain it will work for everyone out there experiencing these constant crashes, but it did work for me-which of course I am grateful for. It might possibly be effective only on the Mid 2010 Macbook Pro model, for some reason, just as your solution addresses in its title. This narrows its usefulness, of course, but in any case, if this is the model you own then you might possibly find success here as I have. Good luck.

Well my x-wife says I blow a lot of Hot Air ... yuck yuck yuck ...