Do you recommend not using a drill press with a Morse taper?

@@brutusjb3814 don't. trust me. lol

Did you make his modifications to your drill press?

If you have a bearing issue, you can solve the bearing problem by replacing your lower spindle bearings with an angular contact double row bearings.

Or just use typical roller

Yes this definitely needed another way to lift the head.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

+Tater79bj Thanks! Yes, a heavy drill press is a must.

I got tired of watching people going all through commotions of using some Grizzly or harbor freight drills trying to do this. Finally found this and couldn’t believe he used a decent drill press! One guy was heating up a quill with a Morse taper and took a chuck that was in the freezer then pounded it in. It still dropped out! Then of all things he said well guess I’ll have to put super glue on it! Super glue??? Oh boy.🙄 Trust me folks don’t waste time on those cheap drills from Harbor freight. They’re only good for drilling wood-maybe?😂😂

+OvalWingNut Thanks a lot, I appreciate you taking a look. -Robert.

Thank You!

Thank you.

Thanks for checking it out.

Hey thanks for watching. You might check ebay for that pulley, these presses are parted out a lot.

nifty1940 Thanks, I appreciate you checking it out.

No, ‘ necessity is a Mother, until you invent something ‘ !

Nate Rose Thanks Nate. Good luck with your setup.

Thanks for watching.

How's it going with your router setup? I'd be interested to hear any details.

Yes and you can buy replacement bearings that are rated for side load.

Thanks!

+joe clune The reason I put this together was to teach myself some basic milling operations. Good luck.

Well you can safely bet that X,Y table isn't and won't be AMERICAN MADE because mine sure isn't. Milling with any drill press is like taking a Ferrari to a mud bogging contest and expecting some type of result. Just because the one's who know it's a worthless idea are saying so doesn't make them wrong. If you need to mill then buy a cheap small one. If you wanna play ya gotta pay. I want to learn how to fly, since I can't afford it I'm not going to jump off a building and start flapping my arms.

Turning Point Why are you bombing this video for? For what its worth, mills don't use axial bearings, they use brass bushings, radial bearings, and gears (lots of gears)... Oddly enough, big oil rig drills do use axial bearings... For the record, I work in manufacturing these bearings, and those are basic roller bearings with sleeves. Axial bearings have 3 components, a housing washer, a roller filled cage, and a shaft washer. What you see in these drill presses are either radial roller bearings, or radial ball bearings. Either way a quick replacement with tapered roller bearings fixes this, as does installing a draw bar. What it doesn't fix is the fact that the spindle is driven by belts, and belts slip. This doesn't mean it can't be done properly, but it's not going to make you money at home from production... I saw you get on him about his key slot, and that has nothing to do with the machine, rather the fact that he used a single pass, meaning his key way was the same exact size as his end mill. I highly doubt you know much of anything, or you would have told him to use a smaller end mill, and clean up the sides.. Maybe its because I actually do this as a job, maybe that's why I know it!

Like far too many on YT you just automatically make a snap decision and assume others know far less than you do.I work in the open pit mining industry and have been around lots of blast hole drills. I've drilled a few holes but am no driller by any definition.But those rock drills are pretty much the same as those oil drilling rigs. Those axial bearings on the drill heads are there to take the thrust loads common with any drilling. The drill string deflection when the holes are being started and to keep the drill string centered are taken by a deck collar that has the radial bearings since the drill pipe is never perfectly straight and it wears unevenly. So those axial bearings aren't odd at all. Or maybe you think there's no down pressure needed on the drill heads? All these drills including oil rigs have down pressure gauges so you don't burn up the drilling bit in case you didn't know that either. And axial bearings have a hardened inner race, the same for the outer race, and the balls or rollers that may or may not be caged. And since I do own a proper Bridgeport clone mill I'm more than familiar with the requirements and parts involved. Your points don't address the non optional needs of a drawbar and how to get that hole for one through a spindle not designed for one with the small diameter in most drill press spindles. Since Morse Tapers without that drawbar are only good for end thrust as in drilling that drawbar is required for any work that involves radial forces. That simple drawbar is what keeps keeps Morse taper tooling seated in the taper. A MT is only self holding during axial thrust. An R8 taper still uses a drawbar since that taper is not designed as a self holding taper even while drilling. But it's also used to close R8 taper collets or hold tooling in that taper. That same drawbar idea is used to retain Morse Tapers since side forces and the standard vibration even using a multi toothed end mill will cause them to release. 5 minutes with a google search would prove that to anyone who cares enough to check. Then there's the point of people thinking a drill press chuck should be good enough to hold a milling cutter. There not since common non carbide drill shanks are left soft for a very good reason. The drill chuck can get a much better grip on them because under tightening pressure the drill shank flattens out just a bit but not past it's elastic point. Hardened cutting tool shanks such as end mills would only have basically line contact at the center of the 3 jaws. The helical flutes on an endmill will help to pull the end mill down and out from that drill chuck unless a reverse helical flute or up cutting end mill is chosen. ER, MT, R8, etc are designed to surround and properly grip almost the full surface of the tool shank. They still need to be properly tightened. ER 40s take 120 ft lbs on the closing nut before there considered tight enough. How much torque do you think a chuck key can tighten a drill chuck to? But you should already know that since this is your job right? My mill is a belt drive and no different than most other mills in the Bridgeport size other than the bench top sized geared head machines and my mills belt drive still doesn't slip even with 3 hp. Non cnc Bridgeports designed for commercial use are still made as belt drive machines today and there still making money with them. If a drill press doesn't slip while drilling then it most likely wont while milling. But that's not even an issue here since this drill press couldn't grip any mill tooling well enough to get even close to making the belts slip. And proper mills all have both radial and axial bearings since there designed to do both side milling and drilling when required or didn't you know that. Those angular contact bearings can take both types of forces. Some mills will even have added radial bearings to take the thrust loads off the angular contact bearings. www.lathes.co.uk should show some.So yes they DO use axial/radial bearings despite your comment that they don't. What do you think those angular contact bearings do? And there's zero "brass bushings" used in my mills spindle because it has those ABEC 7 /Class 4 or better angular bearings.Yet you state you do this as a job? Why tell him to use a smaller end mill since the whole idea is still unsafe enough it's pointless to use any common drill press as a stand in for even a cheap Chinese X2 sized mill that was designed from the start as a mill. So how much do I really know? Maybe not all that much probably, but it sure seems a lot more than you do since your the one who made a real point about my qualifications and brought up who might be best qualified to judge this. Have you even compared the head casting thickness between a mill and a drill press. Then there's the as thin as possible column wall thickness, a barely good enough for woodworking cantilevered table design and it's rigidity and deflection even while drilling. Very small and weak spindle design simply because it's never been designed to do milling, etc etc etc. That chatter and vibration because of the machines really poor rigidity quickly kills even HSS end mills. Yet it seems that the only ones who keep saying this is such a good idea are the ones who know the least in videos like this. Do your own research and anything I've said is more than easy enough to find and prove to your own satisfaction. The only place you'll ever see any drill press used or even thought of as a mill replacement is by amature's who won't do that research before they try something like this. Can it barely work? Sure, I've even tried it just once before I knew better. I've even used a drill press with an end mill to counterbore holes. That's axial thrust and can be done safely. But I certainly don't need or want a razor sharp end mill dropping off the spindle at high speed. Videos like this encourage others who may not have any idea of how dangerous it can be.You can do whatever you like in your own shop. Post it on YT as a good idea when it clearly isn't or even safe without far more work than it will ever be worth and you'll get comments just like mine. Given the obvious errors in your post I wonder just what makes your thoughts and opinions so much more valid than mine unless your just trolling for arguments hmmm?

Turning Point Once again, that is a radial bearing, not axial. No a drill press doesn't use axial bearings, because there is no need for it (like a couple hundred feet of pipe that you don't want to wander and snap)... For the record, the best and most accurate milling retention, is actually a taper, the chuck is heated (we use induction) then the taper is installed, and retained solely by the metal shrinking. We use those at work as well. We also have hydro(lic) chucks (where the tool is held in solely by hydraulic fluid, and not a mechanical anything)... Thanks for making my point entirely! You do write good though, I'd take you for an author. One more thing I'd like to point out to you, tapers are used because they are self centering (similar to you) and self locking, the tapers on conventional mills are normally not Morse anyways, nor self locking (hence the draw bar and pockets). BTW I know how axial bearings are made, I just happen to work making them, they all use cages for the rollers point blank... Look up Schaeffler Group or INA... Working in mining, you've probably seen quite a few products from my employer. But as far as experience I have worked on Deckel FP1, FP2, and FP4, FPS300, DMG Mori 5 axis eco mill CNC, DMG Mori 7 axis Lathe/milling CNC's (4.0 machines my company is helping develop) Weiler DZ50, Deckel Maho, and Deckel Maho Glidemaster. I've been doing this every day for the past 7 years. Also saw a little bit of eroding as well.

I buy all the old Craftsman I can find. The new stuff they make is crap with Craftsman name on it. Sad ending to a great tool.

Thanks for watching.

hellcattanks I hope it helps you out. Thanks for watching.

I get the same feeling sometimes.

@@RPMechanics lost count of how many times something off the wall was mentioned on the phone or within earshot of the computer & like magic an ad or recommendation pops up. Btw, good video & I had acceptable results.

Thanks a lot.

hmm that is good to hear.. i am about to convert..

Can you elaborate on your build Michael? I'm planning on doing the same thing with a Clarke pillar drill but worried it won't be rigid enough. Cheers.

Thanks for watching and the good info.

Thanks for watching, John.

Thanks a lot.

Thanks.

My gawd, I thought of this and tried it just once many years before KZfaq was even thought of Mr. Aiken. So I guess I don't fit neatly into your "jealous or dumb" category. Even though I already had a mill I wanted to see just how well it would work.And I tried it with a far larger and heavier floor standing drill press than the one shown here. I've even got the exact same X,Y table this YT poster has. But I use it for what it was designed for, locating drilled holes better than hand positioning them.If you understood anything at all about bearings and the differences between the end and side forces you'd understand there's a vast difference between what a drill press uses and what milling requires. Oh it works and barely if your not picky about the results as the video clearly shows, but it's beating the bearings to death since there not designed to take those high side loads and those results are far inferior to even a cheap X2 sized Chinese mill. The larger round column mills only look like there basically a drill press. But not only have the bearings been changed to take the side loads, all of the castings and the wall thickness and size of the column have been upgraded to help resist those high milling forces. To get any tool to cut metal you have to drive it into the metal until it starts cutting. I've seen more than a few of these "lets mill with a drill press" videos and they always get comments about what a good idea it is from the people who seem to least understand what the requirements are. I'm certainly not an expert about machine tool design, but I've learned enough to respect anyone who understands just why it's a worthless effort. Your certainly free to think were all "knockers / shitheads", but getting some understanding and education about what it takes to cut metal would change your opinion about what some of us have already learned. My current mill is an 1100 lb three quarter sized Bridgeport clone, and I can still see the machine flexing under cutting conditions if I push it past what it's designed for.

No that wasn't a usable keyway at all. The key is supposed to fit very tightly into the keyway. Have a look at the stepped side wall surface finish. If the key fits it's going to be loose. A loose key hammers and enlarges the opening. That tight fit stops that from happening.And where did I say he couldn't do what he wants with his own machine? Posting a video about something the poster obviously knows nothing about is what prompted my comments.And that's why you see much of the same comments posted here by people that know what there talking about. I said and meant it was a worthless effort. I've tried it once, and I've owned a cheap $500 X2 mill and know the difference very well. I've moved on to an 1100 lb mill simply because that little proper mill couldn't do a good enough job for what I wanted either. But that little 160 lb mill was light years ahead of a 180 lb floor model drill press. At best a drill press can use an end mill to counter bore holes or counter sink for machine screws, but that's because all the forces are vertical and what the machine was designed to do. But if your still in doubt I highly recommend posting your thoughts over on the Practical Machinist forum for further opinions by actual professional machinists.

Well I never said nor even implied I was world class at anything since I'm also not a pro either. And I know of Rudy very well since I've read most of what he wrote and have most of the videos he did. This may come as a surprise, but no one including myself is immune to bad ideas.Yet somehow you apparently think your personal opinion about any of this is for some reason more valid than mine or any others who have said much the same just because it's only tinkering and in a home shop. Myself and many others have mentioned reasons and used logic about why it's such a stupid idea, and you've added pretty much because someone else did it in the past. There's enough other comments here by people who do know what there talking about so I guess it's pointless to even try and add anything more to what some just refuse to understand.

I was thinking of connecting a hydraulic pump up to his jack.😎

Thanks for watching.

Thanks a lot.

Raymond Davis I'll keep that in mind if I do a replacement.

Thanks for watching.

Yes I remember seeing a picture of one.

leslie may Thanks Les.

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it.

+Ron Garvin Thanks a lot!

Thanks a lot.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks man.

George Farmer Sounds good. Good luck with it.

Thank you and good luck!

Don Cornwall Thanks Don.

I ended up putting this back together as a drill press and now has a new home. It made for easier setups than a lathe attachment, but yea, the long spindle, lack of tooling options, limited to very light cuts are all downsides. This was mainly an educational project, and for that, it was a big step forward for me.

By the way, I was looking at doing the same thing. I can't afford a mill.

Hey thanks a lot. I appreciate your kind words.

These drill press do not have bearings they are made with bushings and a thrust bearing the meats the quill and spindle they can handle side load

Thanks for the info. Was considering the same build, for my home shop.

I just stubbles on some new info maybe you can find useful my drill press has a Morse tapper and a Jacobs chuck turns out they made a Jacobs chuck #633C. New version 34-33C. To have the taper but also a built on collar so the chuck could support side load !! Not sure what drill press your going to use but maybe that is helpful info

+W.Co.VIDS Thanks and good luck!

Thanks a lot! Hope get one out soon.

Thanks for watching.

+Hugh Allen Thanks a lot.

+Arock PCB Thanks for checking it out.

+Arock PCB Nice job.

Steve S Thanks Steve. I had a 3 pulley set up at one time, but removed it for some reason and didn't put it back on. I'll have to reconsider that.

Hey thanks, Shawn.

Some of those so called haters and shit talkers are professional machinists.

TRUETH SEEKER 2 check popular mechanic ...popular science 1930..on up to 1960 all kinds of articles and blueprints on fixtures...also check practical machinist and home machinist

John Colvin dont are any content on your web page ..i have 45 years..been bonded.prototype..manual..automatics.how about you

Retired machinist, from Fortune 500 company!

+Doug Ankrum Thanks a lot.

Chill dude

Barron Thompson In part 2 I did just that with the hydraulic jack. Thanks.

+Walt Kiefer Thanks, I appreciate you taking a look.

+Walter B Thanks Walter. I appreciate you taking a look.

Thank you

From Grizzly.

@@RPMechanics was it a sale item? A incomplete mill...?

+ADSlammer Thanks for watching.

Thanks a lot.