Since I watched this before, I've been in the hospital with a heart attack and open heart surgery, and watching you again it's like having a conversation with an old friend, thanks for keep making these videos

After getting over the initial shock that you weren’t going to USE the item in its original format…I was captivated by your obvious mastery of machinery. As a professional hobbyist and the son of a machinist, you brightened my day with this video. Keep ‘em coming!

Great job. I can't believe how nice the castings and machining on the tables looked. Thanks for the video!

Love your style, really well shot, tight edit, no messing about with clear explanations and excellent craftsmanship - colour me mighty impressed!

Love your content. I just bought a 2 hp drill press and I wanted an x y table for it. This one seems to be the only thing out there. So. I got it. Mine is exactly like yours right down to the bent shaft and loose fits and crazy angle holes for the rod. I ordered the McMaster stuff and plan on tuning mine up to something less rickety as well. Thanks again. Perfect timing for my shop at least ! Please keep up the great work! All the best. Bruce

as a machine rebuilder way back in the 80s we replaced most lead screws with ball lead screws for high accuracy, and as a scraper i used to fit the ways and gibbs and even ground small grooves in the ways for oil and put zerks in the casting

Have been looking at this exact table on Amazon, after watching this I'm ordering it. Like the lead screw update as well . Great presentation thanks for posting

Good job Mark, by far the most interesting unboxing & review I have seen in a very long time!

I have been fascinated by the art of machining and metal work for a long, long time and I continue to wonder what prompted me to keep my materials mostly limited to wood. It's probably because that's what my dad used for most of the home projects I "helped" him with one hand while I held up my diaper with the other. My dad seemed to de EVERYTHING for himself and so it goes, like father, like son. As I watched your video, I was no less than mesmerized by your explanations, demonstrations, and overall workmanship. You certainly have an unusual grasp of metalworking and I really appreciate the demonstration of your meticulous methods to me and others. I must agree with Chris Williams' comment from a few months back, you seem to have an unusual "mastery" of this type of metalwork. Thank you.

Thank you once again for inviting us into your workshop for a learning experience and a friendly visit. During the build I kept on comparing your solution, remachining the tool versus adapting a very inexpensive Digital Read Out. Your solution is very durable, reliable and cost effective. A DRO is much more expensive, not as durable, but has buttons to push and pretty colored lights that flash at you! I was torn between the two solutions!

Mark, when you went to center that block in the four-jaw to bore the hole in it, I thought instantly of a trick I saw Keith Rucker use. He used a spot drill in his drill press to make a hole big enough for a dead center to register in. Then he put the block in the 4-jaw, trapped a dead center with the point in the hole, and the center of the other end on his tailstock center. From there he could put the dial indicator on the dead center (he might have been using a piece of a broken end mill, sharpened to a center point…) and rotated the chuck. The point of the dead center has no choice but to follow the hole in the block, and you can use a dial indicator to bring it to center just like you would a piece of round stock in the jaws. It was really slick and a trick i filed away for future use.

Thanks for sharing, the video is interesting. Splitting the nuts you made would be a easy task to allow for some adjustment to minimize any back lash, both X and Y nuts. Drill press is such a great tool.

I've seen this table on Amazon, and I was immediately impressed with how wide the bottom dovetail is, giving good support to the table, most have very narrow bottom dovetails that let the table rock. It was nice to see someone take it apart to see what it's like, is a lot for the price, and if you're willing to fiddle about with it ( perhaps scrape in the slideways, perhaps add ball screws or DRO ) it could be a very useful milling table.

Well sir your ability to spot and correct manufacturing and design concerns is to be commended. Your fabrication skills are beyond reproach. Your ability to review an item so that others may use your experience with said item to educate themselves further regarding said item and therefore form a more knowledgeable, well founded, decision regarding their potential acquisition of said item is absolutely horrendous. We have no more knowledge about the out of the box functioning of this mill bed now than we did when we got here. (OK, so maybe I have a LITTLE better idea)That said I watched it all front to back and am now headed to part 2. You've gained a new subscriber as well. So for a guy that does flat out crappy reviews, you ain't at all bad my friend. lol

Purchased an Interstate 2 axis mill drill table on-line for cheap...$175.00 - 6" Table Width x 19 Table Length, 7-1/2" Cross Travel x 11" Longitudinal Travel, Slide Machining Table - 5" Overall Height, Two 9/16" Longitudinal T Slots, 10-1/2" Base Length x 8" Base Width...The claim, that it was new.......Unboxed..coated with Cosmoline... Took table completely apart - soaked and brush scrubbed in ZEP industrial citrus cleaner all parts in/out rinsed and dried thoroughly Oiled everything with Hoppes gun oil and set everything up to inspect and or re-assemble. The castings are certainly much larger and were not quite as nice as your Vevor model but the machined ways are very smooth and with some tuning no slop in either table. Both "X" &"Y" axis lead screws are metric Acme thread (not my favorite). Acme are beautiful threads, I just don't happen to like metric all that much but then again, everything with this table is metric............."X" - axis lead screw turned true on a friends lathe...surprisingly, no wobble...But had seriously peened over 8mm threads on both ends of the "X" axis lead screw. "Y" - axis lead screw was another thing.....10mm portion toward hand wheel, appeared to be bent. Chucked in the lathe, serious wobble. A machinist friend was, believe it or not was able to straighten this lead screw. So when re-chucked it was amazingly true..(will wonders never cease) Also, (I am the kind of person that desires to have the "Y" - axis lead screw terminated with a "cup-end thrust bearing, so the end of the lead screw doesn't just wobble all around) this was the case with is table as well. So, the very end of the "Y" lead screw protruded into a bored hole at that end of the table. To fix this, the 1/2" end of which was machined down to 10mm, the hole at that end of the table was re-bored and fitted with a nice fitted cup end thrust bearing........Both lead screw nuts appeared to have been manufactured by a high school student in machine shop....Hand wheels and dials and table jibs.........I am replacing the hand wheels with something more substantial and as both lead screws have keys/key ways the new hand wheels are as well, keyed. The dials will be a gotcha for me all around......You are the first person that I have seen that has a set-up for incrementing dials and produced some very excellent ones in a following you tube video. All together this beast cost a little more than $300.00. But I still don't have the dials...........Do yo by chance know anyone that does that kind of work..made to order?? Your table turned out very nice.....you really needed to replace what you had before....I'm somewhat "OCD" so, for me , "a lot of precision is good, but a lot more is, more better"!!!

Good video Mark. I was hoping it would be a just unboxing as to the quality of the Vevor products I have been using are top notch quality. I have 2 little (unknown brand ) x-y tables i got from Little Machine Shop that I paid $80 for but was so damaged when i got it and had missing parts they had to send me another one. So now I have 2 of them that I have never used because they are just too light weight to even use. thanks for the video.

Appreciated your review -- guess that's why we need to think of this Chinesium tools as being DIY projects. Thankyou for the video -- I like the way you approach projects. I'd imagine you'd have been a great shop teacher. Children don't get to learn such things these days -- I'm so thankful for a DAD that really taught us how to work on projects. I purchased the same/very similar unit from Mophorn a couple years ago for my drill press. Unfortunately, they just shipped it from China with the original single wall of thin cardboard and no padding, blocking or anything inside. The unit even had the handles on it when shipped. Came with one handle broken off the other mashed. And the X rod was bent badly. They did not want to return it, or have me give it a bad review, and they badgered me, calling EVERY day. We give you 10% off, then it was 20% etc. No I want a return. Did not know if I could fix that shaft, and cost of new wheels alone was 20% of what I paid for the unit. It would be easier to buy another unit. I did get them to return, but they did not want it shipped back. About a year later I was either going to toss it out or repair it. And was able to carefully torch and bend that shaft to where it was very close and got new handles and it does work. Was hoping I could do some very light milling on my drill press (a 1953 Craftsman) with brass bushings, and frankly almost a mm of side play at the business end. No - the chatter even on Alum was quite astounding - a definite NO GO. Been buying the parts for building a vertical mill (no quill). Hopefully I will get the time, ...someday LOL. Could use that x-y stage as a first one for that mill; before I build a proper one with ball thread rods and NEMA23 motors, want to be able to do CNC if case arose. RH

While you have the slides apart, consider adding oil channels in the sliding dovetails and oil holes to apply way oil at assembly and in the future. I have a similar slide assembly that I will be reworking as a component of a tool grinder I am building. I enjoyed this video immensely!

Well, this was quite educational. I'm so glad I have your videos to learn from, and enjoy in the process. There is a cross slide table in my future at some point and it's good to know this one has potential. I'm planning on converting my drill press to a square post at some point too. It just seems to "solid" things up. I have an old Dayton that is in need of a good going over. Thanks for sharing your shop with us!

Great review,Mark.Thank you.

Gday Winky, overall the table is good value for what you pay, doing the modification is not that necessary but certainly improves the functionality, it’s much the same with small import machines like a mini lathe or mill, the way you have done this showing it can be done without a milling machine was a great idea, overall you have a perfectly functional XY table that’s much better the original, great job and very well explained, Cheers

Hi Winky. I got my mill table apart. I filed some of the rough edges. Then took a rough Diamond honing board to the flat parts. Degreased everything and cleaned it up. One thing is that I could not find the right tap to finish the threads in the handle wheel. The threads don’t go all the way through and the bolt won’t tighten. But I’ll use nylon washers to take up the slack. I sprayed some T-9 rust protection on the parts then sprayed GlideCote over all the sliding parts. Putting it back together now. I seem to have an extra washer where the bearings go around the lead screw. I think it came from the long lead screw on the inside. Maybe to take up some slack? P

Nice job bringing it up to your standards. I was a little surprised that you didn’t slice a section of your lead screw nuts off and install some set screws so you could adjust the backlash. Thanks for the review, I have been looking at that table.

Hi Mark ! I have the same 'unit' , but I'm just going to use 1/2 - 10 Acme threaded rod . 'Picked up a few 3' sticks from ZORO for a very fair price . . . * way before I got this X-y table . . . I used some of the acme rod for replacing a cross slide that was really hurting ! I spent almost 20 hours working on my table to get it fitting much better - I filed, then scraped the rough machining on all the wear surfaces EXCEPT the dovetails , ( which were fairly smooth ) 'Don't believe that de - burring is in the vocabulary of cheep Chinesium ! I'm actually intending on using my setup for 'light' milling , so accuracy is an absolute MUST ! I saw your video on making the dials for this , THEN I wondered WHY youtube didn't send any notification - they're getting pretty bad about it ! SO . . . I bypassed watching the dials being made , to see this one FIRST ! 'Glad I did ! I think my setup is going to have a longer X travel , by repositioning the NUT ! Same is true with the Y movement . . . I can get 6" of cross travel , & 10" of longitudinal travel ! * Might as well milk it for as much as I can ! Great job on yours . . . I replaced the stock ( garbage ) gibs with cold rolled , & put dimples on all of the gib screws , along with turning them into 'dog points' . 'Think I'll use brass tipped screws on the LOCKS . . . along with a longer 'lever arm' - ( they don't get snug enough to suit me ! ) On to your dial making video ! Thanks for sharing your endeavors !

I went ahead and purchased one of these and as you say, petty amazing for the price. The one I received is exactly like yours, even the packaging is the same. I noticed that the one shown on the Vevor link as well as on Amazon and Walmart show a unit that has more gib adjusting screws and has a cover over the lower lead screw on the inside of the base. I wonder if there are more differences, perhaps one is an upgraded model.

Love the job you did on the X/Y table. The thing has a good casting. The socket head screws should be recessed slightly in the handles. Ask me how I know. My Colchester lathe came with the tail stock (made one) missing the handle, only the cap screw sticking out. Throw it in the lathe, take a small boring bar, bring her in a little. The threads might need to be cut deeper.

Nicely done Mark. Well worth the money in my view. The castings alone are worth more than what you paid. The mods are time well spent. And doing the metric threads on the SB made me smile and think back to our conversation. "I like it" !!! Gilles

Great Job of upgrading the Table. It’s too bad they don’t spend just a little more Time to do it right at the Factory. The Castings were good, it was just all the sloppy Work they did on the Lead Screws and the rest. I guess they don’t have a Quality Control. Anyway, Thanks for showing us how you fixed the Problem. Really good Job of making it right.😁👍👍

If you want to further reduce backlash, you can make a second nut for each leadscrew, and position it such that each nut is engaging on opposing threads.. i.e. if one nut is engaged on the left-hand side of the thread, then the other would be on the right-hand side. backlash is really just the amount of movement needed for the thread landings to engage on either one side of the nut's thread landings, or the other. by using opposing landings, and having the nuts positioned so they are always engaged, you eliminate the backlash ( as much as possible without introducing too much friction to cause binding)

I was thinking of getting this and fitting a cheap DRO to "fix" the metric dials, but your lead screw upgrade probably improved it quite a bit over just converting it to imperial.

Looks to be what some refer to as a "kit" tool...some assembly (and cleaning and filing and smoothing) required. Good bones, though, and a good place to start. Thanks for the review.

Merry Christmas

nice review.nice job

Nice video. Wondering if you’ve had any ideas about putting stepper motors on it , mount to your milling machine table and have a 2 axis CNC table. Similar to your CNC wood lathe.

Ok Winky. This is my last intrusion on your peace. I assembled the parts and found that the top table was very stiff. So on your suggestion, I opened it up and found that one of the bolts that holds the lower lead screw nut in place was rubbing on the upper lead screw. I took it out and used my grinder to reduce the diameter of the Allen head top. That did the trick. I might have made a mistake by applying a thin coat of silicon synthetic grease to all the sliding parts. It may be too heavy. I don’t know. After reassembling everything, the upper stage moves without any bumps although it’s still tight. The big problem is that I can’t center the mill table on my drill table because the lower turning handle hangs below the lip of the table. This mean putting a piece of wood underneath to raise the mill table. On top of that, I have a 4” mill vice that sits on top of everything. The weight is considerable and I don’t think my 20” Jet 20MF drill can handle it. Raising the table up and down is frightening. I just bought this drill press and I’m unhappy with it. I should have gotten the floor standing Nova instead. Thanks. P

Just bought a section of ¾ all thread that is quite hard grade 9 for a pulling tool. Never new it was available at a fastener supply store.

May i suggest to check out the " oldham coupler" which takes out the misaleignment issue for your wonderful crosstable improvements.

I too was emboldened to buy one of these mainly due to your excellent review. I have been a sub and enjoy all your content as it is down to earth without all the noise and clutter of unwanted music or frivolous commercial-sounding content out there. I am in the process of cleaning up and even smoothing the gibs to make it work as good as possible. I don't own a metal lathe to make the kinds of mods you did to make it super smooth and even more precise. One question I have is can I use a shim around the lead screws to make them tighter against the hole on their respective holders? At least the lead screw nuts are threaded straight in the unit so I don't have to worry about that causing the biding of the lead screws

I believe the hole thru the block was drilled at an angle to be able to adjust backlash by loosening the attach blots and rotating the block slightly.

Great video winky, keep'um coming.

Been considering one of these myself just for the slotted table to go on my little CNC mill. Just not so sure it would appreciate slinging around what is probably a 35lb chunk of cast iron. Not sure the weight is worth the t-slots. Appreciate the look inside one of these! Been curious about their quality for a while. Seems perfect for your intentions.

Hi Mr Winky, when building my mill I used the same table but replaced the Acme threads with ball screws and blocks, works a treat and virtually no backlash 👴🏻👍

😮 I can't imagine being that good at something.

i think you touched on something. Many of these parts or tools we want to buy are expensive, but there are Chinese versions. As you did here, you can make leadscrews, buy bearings modify and fabracate a lot of little things, but the main casting is one thing you cant make. Their castings tend to be rough. basically any thing i buy from lathe chuck to xy tables like this, strip, clean and see if any improvement can be made. Its a trade off many hobbyist can make, cheap tool , plus a little project to do. It is important you manage your expectations properly

For someone that is not a machinist and would like good or better than good compound mill table "like this unit" for a floor mount drill press what is your choice as an out of the box unit in inches? I lov how you can make anything you want from raw stock... You have great video's to get lost in for a few hours.

be interesting to see you spotting the bearing surfaces.

24:56 on a project this size you can use a lathe as a mill think of the head stock as a mills headstock or spindle laying on it side now all you have to do it clamp your work to the tool rest and use the x y axis on the lathe to mill your key slot. Its crude but it can work. There is always more then one way to skin a goat.

Hi, really enjoyed the video. Can I ask what make of lathe that is? it looks like a nice piece of equipment.

It would be interesting to hear about any feedback you may have received from Vevor regarding the quality of those nuts. It's almost as if they've decided "nobody will see them so they can be crooked by 10-15 degrees." As a consumer there's no way I'd want to sink money into a product with that attitude about quality. For someone with your talents it's clearly a great starting point though. Great job.

That thing was a mess. Nice cleanup there Winky. Thanks for the video.

Can you tell me how thick the casting is on the y axis, you see.... I'm trying to build an x y rotary table and the rotary I have is a fine english made thing with 4 slots arranged in a ❌ . The XY that I have doesn't fit this and would require a couple of new slots to be cut, which I'm very hesitant to do, being a fine english made thing of good quality . I'm thinking of getting one of these XY tables and fitting it...but may have to drill into the casting of the y axis so as to align each axis with 0° , 90° etc What's the size of the dovetail, depth from top flat face to bottom flat face, and major dimension. Don't want to spend the money only to find I can't do what I want

Wink, you should do some research on our crazy inch system, it's not as bad as it's made out to be and it has many advantages over the metric system. It was developed by craft and tradesmen that were shipbuilders. The main thrust was to quickly find the center point in your head, such as half of 1/4 is 1/8, half of 5/16 is 5/32, Half of 5/32 is 5/64, and half of 5/64 is 5/128s, really someone spent much time developing or system and for what we do it probably really is a good system. I am fluent in both systems only because my life career change put me in a company that only used the metric system since they were German. Since retirement though I've gone back to the imperial system.

was lead screw swap mainly to go from metric to imperial? Any performance improvement in doing the swap?

Nice application of the "Vise-Grip pliers" for a material stop.

Hey Mark, what are you going to do with the old table?

Now to finish the project you need to get your dremal with a cutting disk out and put some oil groves in the ways and then install some oil zirk fittings. I have done that to all of my Chines mills and lathes. They like this table came with no provision for oiling the ways. I put the oil grove in the gib ( on my rongfu 30) so you don't have to have the table in a special spot to oil that way. my gib stuck out far enough that could do it that way.

This is a great project and this XY table will be more than good enough for drilling. Nice work. I suspect 22:45 what seems like 1+mm of unnecessary clearance was there on purpose to minimize alignment struggle when assembling. The Y stage and the X stage have their own dovetail and gibs to keep their motion linear, this reduces the need for the lead screws to have precise radial positioning. The leadscrews' main concern is controlling movement and remaining stable in their axial directions. To this end, they can be allowed quite a bit of slop radially, explaining the 1mm shaft diameter delta. Making the neck of the new screw larger to more precisely fit the hole in the bearing block, you may have given yourself more alignment work toward the end with enlarging bearing block bolt holes, etc. to get the screw supporting parts to line up well enough not to bind. You got it by the end. Seems to work fine now, though..

Would it be possible to turn the x table 180*? I would like my handle on the left side as apposed to the right?

nice one winky. you redid almost the whole table :P. great video as susual

i was thinking I needed bigger heavier X Y tables for my DIY Mini Mill, But after watching this video I can see this level is way over kill for my setup. Boy you took it to another level, great review and rebuild. Do you know of a smaller strong setup for X Y table, I am slotting Pot Metal on Model Trains and Aluminum Blocks into new Chassis and truck frames, Not steel or large parts. Accuracy is on level with a farm wagon. But i need Y travel 6 to 8 inches and Z travel 12 to 16 inches. What do you think? Dennis

Hi, I just discovered your channel a little while ago, i really appreciate your videos for being clear and concise. I have a question for you regarding this Vevor compound table if that’s ok? Long story short, i have a quite old very solid German Weik horizontal milling machine, which has a dial feed only for its y axis. It’s X and Z are fed with levers, very solid and tight, but especially the X is not suitable for milling a part by feeding with the lever, its not slow and gentle enough, if you know what i mean. So, i need a single axis dial feed option, but they are impossible to find here in Oz and an XY compound table like this Vevor would end up being too high/close to the cutting tool. So i am thinking that this Vevor looks like the X feed/table section comes off the base and could be used (when mounted on say a flush to the dovetail plate bolted to the mills table) as an X axis feed? So my question is does the top X axis/table section still function on its own after removing from the base/Y section please? (Phew)

Nice 👍🏻

Greetings to the Winkster. Well, I hope I don’t have to bother you anymore after this. Two things. 1. The enamel pen was an almost failure. The grooves were so shallow that when I wiped off the excess, most of the groove ink went with it. But I’d call it a 50% improvement over unmarked. 2. I have my table reassembled. Everything seems to be ok…BUT, the upper stage is a bit stiff. Not sure why this is. I played with the nuts and set screws on the side to loosen it a bit, but that only gave me about 10% more ease. I’m wondering if it’s the two black nuts that go between the green block and the handle wheel. I was uncertain about how tight to make those. Can you provide any insight? Checks in the mail. 😬 Thanks, Paul

Thanks for posting the video, why did you need new lead screws? I was thinking of getting one of these, thanks.

Nice to see a south bend junior lathe in action. I have one as well from 1931 and am fond of it. Do you still have the brass bushings? I have some play on it which I need to address in time...

I only have one negative thing to comment on this video. Please use a way cover on the lathe when using emery cloth. The grit mixing with the way oil is like lapping compound for the bed ways. My South Bend lathe is a 1944 lathe, so it is a year older than me, and is in better shape than I am. I try to keep it that wy by not wearing out the bed ways. I wipe the bed down before using the lathe, then lubricate it well before turning it on. Cast iron will also act as lapping compound, so cover before machiningon it.

First thing great videos keep them coming, but I have a silly question, I received my one of these a couple of days ago, everything seemed to be good until I went to put the handwheels on to find out there was no keyway in the smaller one, my mic is only metric being frome the UK and they are not 3mm and not 4mm so would you or one of your subscribers across the pond do a quick measure up so I get the right grooving tool, best regards to you and your subscribers, David.

If you ever turned an ACME thread you'd know why they are expensive. How many blocks would you have gone through if you had to single point them internally before you got it right?

Is this really an "upgrade", with the x nut off centre from the bearing holder and acme to UNC screws?

After a bit of hand scraping, it might be up to some precision work. For a drill press, I suppose it isn’t as important. The longer the thread, the less wear on the nut and the screw.

Another good project, seems the the table is good valve for the price. Building that square column drill press is a project on my bucket list, is there anything you would do different having lived with for a while?

Do you think the X screw / handle could be flipped to the other side? To be clear, the longer lead screw. Great video!

I’m really impressed with your video. I just bought the same mill table and I searched for what to do before assembly. That’s how I found your video. But I don’t have a lathe or mill. What can you suggest I do without all the machining? Also, I’m in the market for a lathe. What do you have and what can you suggest for under $4k? Thanks, Paul

I have the same drill press and I'm trying to understand how the lead screw assembly is supposed to function properly as is. Does anyone know the names of those types of nuts that come with it, and any other terminology that might help me uncover some reading material that relates to the specific use of lead screws as they come with this table. I don't have enough money to upgrade right now so I'm trying to do the best with what I've got. I've noticed the stock 51102 thrust bearing races have different size interior holes on what seems like the back race. Is this standard oir a fix for this job to make sure I dont put them on backwards? (The back race on first falls into the thread). The nuts used are antenna sort of nuts in a double nut arrangement. I've been pretty confused about this for a while and not sure what it is wrong with this arrangement and how these peices should work ideally. I think the problem is that the handle and the screw end peice that fits the bearings might not be accurate ... Anyways any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your video nice job on the drill!

This is interesting.

could not a spring over the screws overcome the lash on your homemade table?

Well done. Another kit from over seas.

Hi I'm from the UK and just bought one of these tables so was interested in what you did. What do you call Standard thread ?? Have you ever thought of using Ballscrews, you can get them quite cheap?

Kinda sad when you buy something now a days you have to rebuild it. Again great job!!👍

I purchased one of these 30 years ago from Enco. I did the exact same thing, as there was too much slop in the threads. At the time I got some low backlash rods and threads from MSC supply. I also recut the dovetails, as they were very rough. I looked at Palmgren brand tables about 10 years ago, at a used tool store, and did not see any better quality. I just looked at eBay for acme threaded rod, for stepper motor use, it seemed very affordable. I only use this on my drill press, and I keep a quick adjust vise on it. I put risers under it for the same problem with the lateral feed crank handle as well. It just makes setup for quick centering of the drill where you want it. I never take it off the table. I made a plywood platten with a 2x2 tenon that I can clamp in the vise if I want a large flat area.

Of course

Locking the gibs fairly snug before setting up the leadscrew nuts and brackets would have aligned the tables in the correct position first. 3/4" UNC a good choice for simple 0.1" per rev. Could the top be assembled with the handwheel on the left or would the nut have to be moved to the other end?

Is that a south bend 10 L? I just restored one and am starting to get used to it. New subscriber

did I miss some were why you were replacing the lead screws? I am assuming to make US reading's?

Nicely done, looks like you were taking the Stefan Gotteswinter approach of using the tool as-received as a casting kit, like he does, and making it up to snuff for your purposes. But as you say, for the price point, at least the castings were actually good!

Still seems like a great deal for the money.

Awesome video Winky! I have wanted and considered buying one of those milling tables. But after seeing what you went through, I may change my mind. Although the DRO option sounds like it may be feasible...

Why do I have a feeling that after this video, the company are in the works to make a standard/imperial version available to some of us? Or they can advertise it as a great project.

Genial!

I got only to the part where the table moves when drilling round stock because of the backlas and did not watch any further. WTF, dude? Is it so difficult to fixate the table while drilling?

Oh, I also have Impressart enamel marker for making the marks on the wheel black. I’ll let you know how it works. $7 at Amazon.

Wouldnt 10mm per turn dial mean you need 10mm per turn lead screw therefore next to impossibile to mill anything manualy? I think 4mm per turn is 1mm per quarter turn and seems like a normal hand motion also normal metric leadscrew pitch. But i am no expert at all. Great video though really really liked it!

Do you think they made the hole crooked so they could twist it on the lead screw to minimize backlash?

After all that work why did you not chose ball screws. They are very cheap on eBay and amazon now they may not be the highest quality but for a X-Y table they would work great. I like your vids so keep up the good work . By no means am I slamming your work you do great.

Wow - looks like some of the boring and drilling on my Lewis Shaper series. There is straight, sorta straight, and what I found in mine. Great video enjoying. All the best Dan

Instead of ordering all new thrust bearings (23:00).. You could have just drilled out that green flange and put a bushing inside it to tighten it back up--- and still use all the old thrust bearings. :)

Did you consider a 2 axis DRO for one that matches the quality of that table it is under a $100

A good review and mods Winky.

I think if I made a review on this X Y table it would be more favorable. For the money you just can’t beat it. ~Ricvis

Why are my shoulder muscles aching a bit after watching this? :)