Nice vid. I really think that it's time to rewire entirely. Those connections and the state of the old wires is something asking for troubles.

Perseverance pays off! I'm about to start working on a '28 Tudor sedan, who knows what I'm going to encounter.

Yep the body's were set on wood blocks.May i suggest you get in touch with Paul Shinn.He got a ton of videos. He's a wizard.Good video.the ele issues can be in the harness.They dont cost to much and could be worth it.And as you know positive ground.Check the base of the steering column.Undo the bail and its another possible place to check .Good luck.Live my 28 LATER

The key swtich on a Model A provides a connection point between the coil and the points. With the key off, the points are not able to ground the coil so the engine will not run. I didn't realize that the coil is provided power at all times, but that's the way it is. With the key on, you should have battery voltage at both coil terminals when the points are open. You will have battery voltage at only one terminal when the points are closed. So, won't it hurt the coil to have it powered at all times? No, because there is no complete circuit until one of the coil primary terminals is grounded allowing current to flow through the primary winding. The points are what provide the circuit.

Model A's run best WITHOUT an air filter. Especially if the engine pans are installed. Putting on an air filter restricts air flow and may be a fire hazard if the carburetor every dumps fuel due to a sticky float valve. Save your money - buy something else.

It's a FoRd, so you have to expect troubles. hence the old cliche FORD-= "Found On Road Dead" Had a '31 i bought 20 some years ago when Hollywood Studios liquidated some warehouses and yards filled with hundreds of of old cars & trucks and vehicles used on movie sets and in films for nearly 100 years, vehicles from 1905- 1950's. My Model A Ford was from the Waltons TV, show supposedly the episode when John boy drove his 1st car, i never watched the series but had a COA that came with that POS. I still have & drive my old nemisis a ''41 Chevy 1.5t dually/ short wheelbase flatbed, Daily driver for over 50 years with over 700k miles on the clock It's on it's 3rd engine now with an upgrade to '59 235 inline 6. The rest of the driveline is all original. It's traveled the Hiways, byways & backroads in all states from Colorado west.Though these days impatient people are just in too much of a hurry to enjoy the slow scenic drive, They are always Honking, finger waving, cutting me off, passing on the right to the point of "whats the use" I live in the desert southwest so i do still have local roads i can drive around on without speeding idiots to contend with & i use it for dump runs, but being 10 years younger than the Truck itself, driving and maintaining anything is more of a pain in the butt, than a pleasure to behold.

I have the same thing on my ford model a carburetor problems

If the wires are full of splices, and you want reliability, bite the bullet and install a new harness.

Do yourself a favor: rewire the car back to original. Get rid of those new fuses and use ONLY ONE on the starter switch. Who knows what the previous owners have done to the wiring.

When the key is off the flow of electricity stops at the coil so both terminals are on then when its on,the positive side goes out cuz the electricity goes to the distributor so your switch is working properly to the coil

Does your cut out on your generator turn on the test light when the key is off on your model A? Im working on my model A and the test ligjt turns on when the key is off

Don't seem to know much about your car