Indeed. Don't take the video to mean my chain wasn't sharp. I was cutting pressure-treated pine. It is super dense and gummy...

Thank you, captain obvious 👍

@@Icutmetal Not so obvious to some. My unmodded saw has outcut many modded saws just because they weren't running what I would consider to be a sharp chain.

​@@brianquigley7336agreed! And a brand new 'fresh' chain ain't that sharp either.

Thank you. I have been told this before. I like teaching.

I have the best air filter seal mod here.... www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

You bet!

Thank you!

Yes they are!

@@mattr66 you got some awesome custom parts brother, I’ll be getting in touch with you soon.

Thanks for the sub!

Thank you! 🤗

look here for some more improvements for the 590 www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

How does it compare to the Husky?

@@bluyetiinc7553 The biggest difference is your wallet is heavier after getting an Echo. 5 year warranty is also awesome.

I was really liking it but only barely got it broke in when I had a garage fire that took most of my tools the echo along with it. I think it would have been just as good as my old rancher if I would have been able To run it more. I have some trees to get down this weekend so I am going to go see if I can find one at the local pawn shops.

Welcome Back.... what saw are you working on?

@@mattr66 CS-590. Just emailed you about some parts 👍

What are the upgrade numbers. I am at 3000 ft.

Ok here is a question. I’m having issues starting it. I put new gas and mix in. What else should I be doing. I haven’t used a chain saw in 10 years.

@@jsmith83400 once it is tuned correctly you choke it and pull till it pops once then push the choke in and then keep cranking. Once it fires, it will be on high idle and then blip the throttle after 5 seconds at high idle.

I will be selling them in a few weeks. They are in production currently.

Just doing the muffler mod with a few extra holes under the modified deflector or better yet, one of my billet deflectors, a 620 will make 85% of the power of a fully ported saw.

Thanks 👍

www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

I just sold my 590 and bought a 620PW. I really can't see any benefit to all the time and money involved since the 620 has all these improvements out of the box with a valid 5 year warranty.

Same comment was going to say it would be cheaper to sell your saw and buy the 620, my brother has one that's ported and modded, she's loud and proud, it just screams for Mercy

The bigger carb on a stock port 590 doesn't help much. I actually like the smaller 590 carb on a fully ported saw with a nozzle change because it is more responsive vs the 620 carb.

@@gordonhenderson1965 is the 620 really that much more?

Absolutely........ this is the best value out there on a 60cc saw.

Husky x cut or full chisel Oregon or even full chisel Stihl

I'm running a full chisel Husky on my cs 600 and it was going well until I cooked it! On the bright side, I'm learning more about this awesome value saw

I run saws a lot, and I like Echo’s simple controls better than Husqvarna for sure. Stihl is ok.

I'm going to try to find a momentary switch so that my 620 has the same manual-of-arms as my little 3510. That little baby has spoiled.

@@mattfleming86 You don’t like the 3510? The 50cc and up saws are pretty good all around for a decent price.

@@andybecker2693 No I LOVE my 3510. It is a brushing and limbing BEAST. It's my go to ATV saw when I'm on trails I havent been on in a while. I've fell and bucked several trees in the 10-14" range it just gets slow in the bar length stuff. Still chugs along with the right grind. Rightfully so it's a 35cc saw.. For what it is, it absolutely rips and I can brush for HOURS without my arms getting tired. We farm in wooded mountain areas so fences are a big deal. I have to carry saws up a mountain (along with fence tools) to do checks/repairs, it's absolutely worth the cut speed penalty to have a quite powerful little saw that weighs near nothing. Pound per pound it is the best saw I've ever had, and would have ZERO problem suggesting it as the best "little saw" a homeowner could own. That saw is the reason I have a 620p pending delivery. If it's of similar quality to the lil baby, it will be a felling and firewood monster. Im very excited.

@@mattfleming86 Awesome.. I have a little 2511t. It is a powerful little limbing saw and around 7lbs fully loaded and ready to go. Echo is way underrated. You’ll love that 620p for the bigger stuff. I settled for the 501p for a bigger saw and don’t regret it.

I have but not in a full port job because I already bump the compression by cutting the cylinder. On an otherwise stock saw, you won't notice much.

Funny you mention little red barn. I live 20 min away from him and got to attend a small engine class he teaches at the local college

The muffler mod yes, but not the timing since the 620 coil already has a more advanced curve.

I would wait a few tanks then have the dealer tune it if you are unfamiliar with the process.

I like 13k

I run motomix or amsoil saber at 50:1. The lubrication properties of the amsoil especially negates the need to mix stronger than 50:1, but the motomix is fine too.

a bit of an old comment but I imagine he has a digital tach and is going by RPM. Leaner will go higher RPM at full throttle. Some old fellas can go by sound but I'd never trust myself with that.

Not yet... Still a month out. They are in production sourcing materials now.

i stock them most of the time. I'm also going to start offering them installed as a turnaround service eventually. www.amazon.com/Walbro-86-578-1-Nozzle-check-valve/dp/B00TDA2H6I

Give it 4 days

www.sawsalvage.co/search?q=gearhead

Check out my other videos for the carburetor modification (changing the jet). On this video it only covers allowing for proper adjustment of the factory carburetor with no hardware changes. The timing key was made with an offset which gives a different timing advance. The factory key is just straight.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nsCSqLOlyamwfKc.html shows the actual changing of the nozzle. This is only required on a fully ported saw or at altitude where the factory adjustment doesn't allow the saw to go lean enough.

@@mattr66 okay thank you very much

Yes here: www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

Can be contacted here: www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

yep, can't mess it up by design

Tune it and run it. Look into muffler and other mods.

They will be here shortly. Waiting on a shippment. www.sawsalvage.co/search?q=gearhead

Walbro makes the nozzle but saw salvage.co actually has a 620 aftermarket carburetor that would solve the problem too.

Both the H and L needles usually need a little tweaking on these saws.....

Pretty close to 1/8 of a turn open.... That's all!

One last question did you have to pull the red limiter caps and thanks for the help.

@@chriswhite1174 yes but I put them back in after adjustment

Thanks man I appreciate it!

They come with one now... Oregon EXL

yes find me on Facebook.... facebook.com/profile.php?id=1272332426

By using a tachometer…

I use echo red armor I think it’s even better and it’s 93 octane

But we can all agree that ethanol-laden fuel is terrible for storage in small engines right? LOL

I have a fix for that now too.... www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

Currently looking for a replacement. The ones I normally use are on backorder indefinitely.

@@mattr66 I’ll see if I can find the part number for the one I used in my 600P. I replaced it not necessarily because I wanted to increase RPM, but so I had more fine control of the mixture.

@@eurokid83 you can also hammer the orfice closed in the factory nozzle if you are careful with a punch and hammer and don't push the nozzle in further.

It was bumping against the rev limiter under light load I think is what you heard.

Still had a bit of a cough throuout the cut, because it's still a bit rich. If you drilled a hole to equal 70% of the original exhaust hole in the muffler under the director plate it will help you quite a bit, also the transfers in the cylinder can have about 20 thou removed to match the case to help out quite a bit with gains in power.

I'll pay you obviously

I'm all out of 590/620 muffler deflectors but they have been a big hit. Retailers will have some more by the end of January. Just modifying the muffler deflector and adding 4 3/16 inch holes around the main hole on the muffler will really wake your saw up. Just remember to retune the carburetor properly afterwards...... Also the 620 coil doesn't need any timing changes.

@@mattr66 Thanks for getting back to me. This is good to know. I may try that hold mod first. Glad I don't need to do a timing change :)

They are aluminum now. www.Sawsalvage.co has them

sawsalvage.co search "gearhead"

See video at 27:00

Ever advance a distributor on a car?

If you don’t understand why, you probably shouldn’t be modifying your saw.

Yes, at a little over 13000 rpms(around 13500), but you don't really run the saw there anyway. The HP band (even ported) starts to drop after 10500 RPMs or so.... Just bumping the timing gives you everything the 620 coil does, but without losing the rpm limiter.

Better for long term storage for sure but I would still use stabilizer. Also saws like 89+ octane typically. Some of the pump gas that is ethanol-free is 87 octane.

It's all I use in my small engines. There's a chain of gas stations near me that sell it in 93 octane.

@@stripedbassnut That's a high quality fuel to be able to be 93 octane without the ethanol. That's high quality stuff.....

I did this muff mod removed limiter tabs and retuned the 590 rips now much more power thanks its all I need also did this same to my cs 400 with cat removal very strong saw great for limbing and smaller bucking

I hear it's good stuff

@@mattr66 Seems to be, I have been happy with it. I am currently trying out Yamalube 2R, same 32:1 ratio.

How much are you choking it? Only choke until it pops once then push the choke in and keep cranking.

www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/

Probably because it's an absolute cow of a thing. Check out Novice Lumberjack, he cut one apart and it's a horror show inside. I think the Tinman Saws mod (almost bypasses the muffler innards) with this deflector cutout mod would be interesting (and both reversible)

It is definitely good stuff.... I just keep it at 50:1 because it's good insurance knowing how hard I run my equipment.

Because you’re lucky, it’s the way to go?

The go even harder ported..... kzfaq.infote_bjKAxpW8?feature=shares

That dude did open a hole in the muffler with the stock diverter plate. But as you said he was all about porting.

It's been too long.. i don't even remember what size those were.

?

How are you applying the choke? Choke it till it pops out of the exhaust one time then push the choke in then keep cranking till it fires. Then tap the trigger to get it off of fast idle.

@@mattr66 that’s my procedure. Most of the time I get a cough out of the motor on the first pull, switch choke off one more pull it coughs and about half the time it will run from there but , if it doesn’t start running on that second pull, no amount of pulling, choke, starting fluid will get it going. The only time I’ve gotten it running after that involved taking the plug out and blowing the cylinder dry.

Hmm maybe it is pushing fuel at rest try clearing it with no choke for a couple of pulls before you choke it next time and see if it pops without the choke.

Try alternate one pull choke on next pull choke off repeat . This might beat the odds .

Uh oh…it’s the warranty police!

It really wasn't but I'll make sure of that next go around.

Sorry to hear that... did you get a scored piston? Did you use old gas or gas with no 2 cycle oil in it?

Lol, i did too/ expensive lesson, im waiting right now fir the motor, my choice was a 200. Walmart saw or 180. Motor/ i think i made the right decision

There are those of us that don't care about a warranty when we can make a 400 dollar saw cut like an 800 dollar saw with no loss of reliability and in some cases better reliability than how it left the factory.

@@mattr66 I can understand that I suppose. However for me it's all about the reliability. Over the years I trashed 2 cheap big box store Poulan junkers before I got wise and started buying Stihl, Echo and Husqvarna equipment. The Poulan and other cheap saws have a service life of approx 50 hours and are disposable junk.

@@JohnDoeEagle1 I'd rather have a properly adjusted saw with an open exhaust that runs cooler than factory.

@@JohnDoeEagle1Then why are you watching the video?

@@Icutmetal Mechanically inclined individuals never stop being curious or learning. Why are you asking me? That is the real question.

The manufacturers are under regulations for noise and other factors. The saws are like any other engine. More air in and out, the more power they will make.

Dremel with a carbide.